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Old 11-06-2014, 09:01 PM   #31
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I could be wrong but I think it is very odd that there is this issue, but ZERO oil in my catch can even after beating on the motor

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Old 11-06-2014, 09:02 PM   #32
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Oh and the pcv tests good, pulled it out, blew in it. Tests good, cleaned and reinstalled
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:38 PM   #33
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Dipspick will be delivered tonight. Will check oil levels and if that is not the issue, will compression test and go from there
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Old 11-07-2014, 02:22 PM   #34
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Good to see your testing things. I will check back once you install new dipstick
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Old 11-07-2014, 09:28 PM   #35
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Don't beleive the dipstick was the issue, just discover I'm over posting to 20psi with no supporting mods, adjusting actuator as I type
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Old 11-07-2014, 10:03 PM   #36
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Backed actuator all the way out now at 14psi
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Old 11-07-2014, 10:09 PM   #37
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Lol, dude put it at least 12psi.

Then check if it still pumps oil out
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Old 11-07-2014, 10:10 PM   #38
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It is threaded all the way out and I'm just under 15 will check for oil spills again in the morning
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Old 11-07-2014, 10:15 PM   #39
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If anyone knows a way to get the boost lower please let me know
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:16 AM   #40
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Just seen your engine bay pic.

I think you have your boost/vaccum hoses mixed up a bit.
At the throttle body there are two nipples up top.
One for fuel pressure regulator, and the other for boost/vaccum.

The top left nipple (thinner one) should go to the fuels pressure regulator.
Top right (fat one) should be for boost/vaccum source ex: blow of valve.

I notice you have a "T" near the actuator, where do the lines lead?

The actuator needs it's own boost source ONLY! No vaccum here.
Which means, only have it going to boost source (hot pipe preferably) or turbo housing if it has a nipple fitting.

Give us pictures of your vaccum routing
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:08 AM   #41
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I had that same problem, do a compression test then a leak down test! For me, my 4th piston was fucked lol. Broken rings & broken ringlands, actually we're just gonna be finishing putting the motor back together today haha
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:11 AM   #42
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If anyone knows a way to get the boost lower please let me know
Most likely that actuator is only good for 14.7 psi or higher. You'll have to buy a new actuator or find an OEM one to make work if you want 7psi.
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:45 AM   #43
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I'm going through the vaccum lines now, got it down to 12 psi which is a little better. But noticed it now smokes when you return to idle after spooling
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:01 PM   #44
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:03 PM   #45
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Seems to run from the left nipple to the acctuator, then it tees off to the bov then the right nipple runs to the boost gauge and the fpr
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:21 PM   #46
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Seems to run from the left nipple to the acctuator, then it tees off to the bov then the right nipple runs to the boost gauge and the fpr
Yes I see, that is incorrect.

Set it up the way I described on my last post.
Left nipple should go to fuel pressure regulator, you can T off this for boost gauge if you like. I prefer not too though, lol.

Right top nipple (fat one) should go to the BOV and "T" off this one for boost gauge! I have it this way in my car.

The actuator should go to compressor housing on turbo (if the housing has a nipple), or install a fitting on your hot pipe and run it to that.
Don't "T" of this line unless it's for a boost controller only.
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:23 PM   #47
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Okay. What issues could that be causing?
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Old 11-08-2014, 04:12 PM   #48
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Drained oil, added proportion amount dipstick reads good. Issue haven't happened today
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Old 11-09-2014, 12:11 AM   #49
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What the fuck is going on in your bay?

1. Fix your vac lines like dboyizmlg said. Get that (boost gauge?) line off your FPR line.

2. EBay turbo? Or just waste gate?

3. Theres a line running off your waste gate line. Usually for boost controllers. Where's it going?

4. Was that a VQ dip stick? What did your oil level read with the SR dip stick before you drained it?


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Old 11-09-2014, 08:30 AM   #50
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1 vaccum lines are fixed

2 turbo and wastgate are both godspeed

3 to the bov until I can tap the hotline for the wastegate

4 it's was a little over 4 1/2 quarts before, and the dipstick had the tube replaced, so the oem sr20 dipstick does not work, whatever this dipstick is, reads correctly.
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Old 11-09-2014, 02:32 PM   #51
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So did a track event, blew coolant hose, transmission exploded. Pulling the motor to redo everything correctly, anyone have a guide? Or anything similar? I have a pretty good idea what I'm doing just want a guide
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Old 11-09-2014, 10:33 PM   #52
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So did a track event, blew coolant hose, transmission exploded. Pulling the motor to redo everything correctly, anyone have a guide? Or anything similar? I have a pretty good idea what I'm doing just want a guide
Lol, not enough gear oil in transmission?

Sorry I think no one is going to have a "guide".
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Old 11-09-2014, 10:46 PM   #53
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No I slammed third so hard I ripped my shifter out of the grand, gear oil went flying, zip tied it back in and kept drifting until it gave up lol. I was looking for a link to like a Haynes Manual or something ha, not a step by step
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:38 AM   #54
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The future of 240sx owners, what a waste...
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:22 AM   #55
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Yeah your right, it sure is a waste to enjoy yourself, who cares if someone thrashes their car? If that is what they enjoy, that's what motor sports are supposed to be, fun. It's people like you that judge and think they are better then others that are the issue.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:34 AM   #56
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You come in here asking for help, some of us give you guidance and you attempt to fix it, which is better than most. However, without fixing your issues, or even narrowing down what the cause/s are, you go out and flog the shit out of it. It breaks and ultimately you come back asking for more help, which in turn provokes me to post my comment.

I'm not against having fun, but common sense says to fix your shit, then go and have a good time. If you have money to burn, by all means throw it in the fire. I do not believe I am better than anyone else, but I do believe I have more common sense than most of the new "kids on the block" round here.

I hope you get the car back up and running, but knowing what the actual cause of why your engine was puking oil would've been a key point in justifying "starting over".
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Old 11-10-2014, 11:05 AM   #57
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I'm laughing inside you did a track event with the car in that shape. Well it's no surprise but hey now at least you get to rebuild it all, remember there is no such thing as a "shortcut"
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Old 11-10-2014, 11:11 AM   #58
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I realize the car had issues, narrowed in down to the rings, retrouted vaccum lines correctly, got the acctuator down to below 10 psi, nothing I could do but pull it out to replace rings anyway, might as well enjoy the day regardless
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:30 PM   #59
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at least he has the balls to come in here and tell us he broke his shit

a lot of people would just stop posting, or say they "fixed" it. You can often tell because there is short mysterious silence between the two.

Take your time rebuilding it, I recommend a new longblock to skip the bottom end part, however, or I have the feeling you will be posting up pretty soon how it failed after 500 miles. Not because you are incompetent, but because it may take several rebuild/failure cycles to get the feel for how she wants to be put together.
Good luck.


I'm starting to keep track of those rebuild disasters, those that people are actually bold enough to admit they broke anyways. Often, the fault is in the machine work, surprise.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=535520
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=569861
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:47 PM   #60
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Yeah your right, it sure is a waste to enjoy yourself, who cares if someone thrashes their car? If that is what they enjoy, that's what motor sports are supposed to be, fun. It's people like you that judge and think they are better then others that are the issue.
i bet you're having so much fun now that your jank ass car is broken
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