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Old 12-01-2016, 10:28 AM   #20521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Habibi240 View Post
can anyone help?


Sounds like tune is off or cas is stabbed incorrectly. Whats being used for timing light signal?


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Old 12-01-2016, 11:41 AM   #20522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_griego View Post
That's normal.

The US driveshaft doesn't fit with the dust boot because of the rubber bushing. The original SR driveshaft has a u-joint instead of that rubber bushing and thus fits with the dust cover.
Yeah I get that. But it's still normal that it sicks about an inch out?
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Old 12-01-2016, 01:16 PM   #20523
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It doesn't stick out any more than usual.

The dust cover goes back like 3" and covers it up, so you're not supposed to be able to see it.

It's fine.
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Old 12-01-2016, 01:43 PM   #20524
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Also, can someone tell me how the powersteering lines should be routed? Funny enough, the factory service manual doesn't seem to cover this.




1992 240sx with S14 SR20DET swap. Is the pump from an S14? The lines all look jacked up. First thing I notice is that the high pressure line goes straight back when it seems like the factory setup makes a 180 degree angle and loops forward 1st. I also notice that that same hardline from the pump is at 45 degree angle, most pictures I see shows the line going straight back like here:


In fact both the in and out are straight back as mines are both angled.
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:49 PM   #20525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
Also, can someone tell me how the powersteering lines should be routed? Funny enough, the factory service manual doesn't seem to cover this.


1992 240sx with S14 SR20DET swap. Is the pump from an S14? The lines all look jacked up. First thing I notice is that the high pressure line goes straight back when it seems like the factory setup makes a 180 degree angle and loops forward 1st. I also notice that that same hardline from the pump is at 45 degree angle, most pictures I see shows the line going straight back like here:

In fact both the in and out are straight back as mines are both angled.
Looks like an S14 SR pump. The stock photo you posted is probably from a KA. KA pump went strait back, SR is at an angle. I went and looked at pics from my swap, and it looks like you have the high-pressure hose mounted backwards. The elbow should come out of the pump and go forward, not backwards like in that pic. You can actually move the KA stub onto the SR pump if you want. Or just leave your hoses routed as-is. I think the angle just gives a little more room for turbo stuff on that side of the engine. Really, at first glance I only noticed your reservoir to pump hose was slightly kinked.

Here's the clearest pic I can find showing how the hose should be going forward:


Just need to undo that banjo bolt and flip the hose around.
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Old 12-01-2016, 05:53 PM   #20526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dev71893 View Post
Sounds like tune is off or cas is stabbed incorrectly. Whats being used for timing light
Timing loop on harness and spark plug wire on CYL 1 same readings
Mechanical timing is spot on cas placement proper quadruple checked it all
Guess I'll get a retune with hopes high
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:26 PM   #20527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
Looks like an S14 SR pump. The stock photo you posted is probably from a KA. KA pump went strait back, SR is at an angle. I went and looked at pics from my swap, and it looks like you have the high-pressure hose mounted backwards. The elbow should come out of the pump and go forward, not backwards like in that pic. You can actually move the KA stub onto the SR pump if you want. Or just leave your hoses routed as-is. I think the angle just gives a little more room for turbo stuff on that side of the engine. Really, at first glance I only noticed your reservoir to pump hose was slightly kinked.

Here's the clearest pic I can find showing how the hose should be going forward:


Just need to undo that banjo bolt and flip the hose around.
Thanks, that's what I thought. I bet the reservoir hose is kinked because it used to be attached to a KA pump, which presumably has the nipple pointing straight back.
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Old 12-02-2016, 09:06 AM   #20528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
Yeah I get that. But it's still normal that it sicks about an inch out?

The gap is there to allow front and back play when you are removing or installing the driveshaft. This is all completely normal.
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:56 PM   #20529
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Price check on s15 6speed trans with clutch/flywheel
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Old 12-04-2016, 07:48 PM   #20530
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Any reason why my smart entrance control unit keeps going out or breaking on me? Second one that has went out on me...
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Old 12-05-2016, 02:33 PM   #20531
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What COOLANT do you guys use in your SR20s? Should I go with a classic coolant like the Zerex Original Green or go for something more specific to all aluminum engines? I live up north so water wetter only mix is not gonna cut it.
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:18 PM   #20532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
What COOLANT do you guys use in your SR20s? Should I go with a classic coolant like the Zerex Original Green or go for something more specific to all aluminum engines? I live up north so water wetter only mix is not gonna cut it.
Classic green stuff is fine. I use the Prestone 50/50 premixed stuff. The SR has <edit> derp, ignore me

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Old 12-05-2016, 03:22 PM   #20533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
Classic green stuff is fine. I use the Prestone 50/50 premixed stuff. The SR has an iron block with aluminum head.


No, it does not. The KA is iron block. SR is aluminum.


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Old 12-05-2016, 03:35 PM   #20534
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealSy90 View Post
No, it does not. The KA is iron block. SR is aluminum.


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This ^

jeez how is this not common knowledge. Do yall not read the wikipedia articles for all these engines? I"ve sorta read almost all of them for most famous jap engines for fun. Next time your waiting around for something you should read up on em, its a productive way to pass time.
They have an article for like every toyota,honda,nissan, etc engine out there
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Old 12-06-2016, 04:26 AM   #20535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kashira kureijii View Post
This ^

jeez how is this not common knowledge. Do yall not read the wikipedia articles for all these engines? I"ve sorta read almost all of them for most famous jap engines for fun. Next time your waiting around for something you should read up on em, its a productive way to pass time.http://icandy.zilvia.net/img/smilies/naughty.gif
They have an article for like every toyota,honda,nissan, etc engine out there
Agreed! This is why they say never to use a magnetic oil drain bolt either. It doesn't work with Aluminum
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Old 12-06-2016, 05:57 AM   #20536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kashira kureijii View Post
This ^

jeez how is this not common knowledge. Do yall not read the wikipedia articles for all these engines? I"ve sorta read almost all of them for most famous jap engines for fun. Next time your waiting around for something you should read up on em, its a productive way to pass time.
They have an article for like every toyota,honda,nissan, etc engine out there
Don't mind me, had a derp moment. Regular green coolant is still just fine though.
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Old 12-06-2016, 08:20 AM   #20537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
Agreed! This is why they say never to use a magnetic oil drain bolt either. It doesn't work with Aluminum
Expect for all the other alloys in the motor that are...
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:17 AM   #20538
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Quote:
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The SR has an iron block with aluminum head.
RIP bro cmon lol
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:02 AM   #20539
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Does anyone know what brand RUCA gives the most negative camber?
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:10 PM   #20540
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dumb question, sorry!
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Old 12-07-2016, 05:22 PM   #20541
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Gas leaking from dust plate area (trans) could this be because the crank shaft seal is bad?
Also the starter sparked when I tried to loosen the harness/bolt side from the solenoid, could be a short? Any place I should look?
The car does not start, at first it cranks very slowly then starts to sound like an ak, there's fast repeated ticking sounds coming from right side of motor.
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:11 AM   #20542
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So this is off the topic of cars, and more on the topic of the forum itself. I've been a member for a few years, but I've been fairly dormant. Now I'm here and i want to start my first ever thread. My question for the group... HOW?! I've looked everywhere for something that says start a new thread, but to no avail. Sorry for being such a noob and all, but I'm confused and reaching out for other people's help... The idiot's guide to Zilvia, Please!
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Old 12-08-2016, 11:09 AM   #20543
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So this is off the topic of cars, and more on the topic of the forum itself. I've been a member for a few years, but I've been fairly dormant. Now I'm here and i want to start my first ever thread. My question for the group... HOW?! I've looked everywhere for something that says start a new thread, but to no avail. Sorry for being such a noob and all, but I'm confused and reaching out for other people's help... The idiot's guide to Zilvia, Please!
Not sure what the number is for Zilvia, but most forums won't let new users create threads until after a certain number of posts. I'm guessing it's more than 2 based on your current post count.

It's an anti-spam measure to limit the reach of bots that simply create accounts and post threads asking you to buy sunglasses or something equally crappy.
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Old 12-08-2016, 11:51 AM   #20544
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Old 12-08-2016, 11:57 AM   #20545
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Hes probably trying to create threads in categories with limits? Otherwise I dont really see how he can miss the New Thread button
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:17 PM   #20546
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I'm ready for the critics.

Anyone using this header in their S14:
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...4de-91-98.html

If so, did it fit without any modifications?

I really don't want to by a $400 DC header and I can't seem to find one used.
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:22 PM   #20547
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I'm ready for the critics.

Anyone using this header in their S14:
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...4de-91-98.html

If so, did it fit without any modifications?

I really don't want to by a $400 DC header and I can't seem to find one used.


If its a stock n/a KA do you really need a header?

I would get if my stock header was leaky, but meh.


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Old 12-08-2016, 01:15 PM   #20548
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Quote:
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If its a stock n/a KA do you really need a header?

I would get if my stock header was leaky, but meh.


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I don't really need one, but I plan to upgrade the exhaust, so I might as well put on a better than stock header.

But I thought I read some where that a S13 KA header doesn't not really fit into a S14 car because the location steering shaft is slightly different. So seeing a header listed as 91 to 98 is a little weird to me.
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Old 12-08-2016, 06:17 PM   #20549
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Quote:
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Not sure what the number is for Zilvia, but most forums won't let new users create threads until after a certain number of posts. I'm guessing it's more than 2 based on your current post count.

It's an anti-spam measure to limit the reach of bots that simply create accounts and post threads asking you to buy sunglasses or something equally crappy.
Ahh fair enough.. I guess I need to get a bit more involved in the conversations going on. Going to stray away from the technical stuff though because I literally have NO clue what I'm doing anymore

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Old 12-09-2016, 04:39 AM   #20550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundEfx View Post
I'm ready for the critics.

Anyone using this header in their S14:
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...4de-91-98.html

If so, did it fit without any modifications?

I really don't want to by a $400 DC header and I can't seem to find one used.
Log Onto Amazon
Input YEAR 240SX OBX Racing Header
Apply for Citi credit card for $50 Amazon Gift Card
Select header($175)
Got to shopping cart
Apply gift card
NOW at payment, DESELECT CITI CARD
Select typical payment plus 50 gift card
Price with free shipping is now $125

Go into account AND REMOVE CITI Card. When the card comes in the mail, Cancel it, by sending it back to them cut in two pieces with teh note on teh paper in red stating CANCEL

Then buy a Meegan test pipe on Enjuku for $35 and be done with exhaust
Oh, amazon also has several mufflers to fit oe pipe, as well as cheap ass N1 knock offs too for cat back
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