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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 10-06-2004, 05:06 AM   #1
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ECU Error Code 34

(This faq is for an sr20det, sr20de, ka24de, ka24e?)

If you receive ECU Error code 34, it means one of two things:

a) Bad Knock Sensor
b) Bad connection to knock sensor

Like many things, Knock Sensors can just "Go Bad". First, look for the grey conector between the 3rd and 4th intake runners, there may be two, the bigger one is the o2 sensor, the smaller one is the knock sensor. Unplug the knock sensor connector and check the wiring, likewise, follow the wiring down to under the intake manifold and feel that the wiring hasn't fallen out. Either way you're going to have to remove the knock sensor to thoroughly check. My knock sensor on my sr20det was held on by one 12mm bolt, to remove it i just reached down under the intake manifold and unbolted it, it was agonizing but it worked and i replaced the whole thing in 15 minutes. Other people would normally go from under the car and remove the starter to get to it, or remove the intake manifold. This is not compeletely necessary, but smaller hands do help. When you get the old knock sensor off look for these things:

a) Discoloration of the copper side (means its toast)
b) Frayed wires
c) any cracks in the knock sensor
d) Plug is damaged
e) not receiving enough electricity

If you see wiring problems then i suggest you fix them, plug the knock sensor back in, bolt it up, reset ECU, drive the car, and see if the error comes up again. Otherwise just replace the little demon. If you have an sr20det then go to Nissan or Napa and get the knock sensor off a 1991 Nissan Sentra SER (Sr20de), If you have a CA18det then get it off a Pulsar, KA's should be selft explanatory because they are american made. Knock sensors are not cheap, mine was $118.00 it sucks, but live with it.

Once you have the new knock sensor, replace the old one, double check wiring, bolt it back up, and reset ECU, drive car around, check ecu, if its not fixed then you have wiring issues most likely, that i can't help you with but there are ways to check the electrical charge.

Good Luck
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Old 10-06-2004, 11:55 AM   #2
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as far as the coolant temp sensor....same part numbers from napa, autozone, and pepboys....91-93 sentra ser and 91-95 300z tt are both ECH TS5520 (from napa)...
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Old 10-29-2004, 11:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racinG20t
is there a difference in the Z32 MAFS (between TT and N/A)??? which is right???
No difference.
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Old 04-20-2005, 05:32 AM   #4
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Z32 NA and TT AFM look the same but are different. The difference is that the NA AFM will read up to 350hp or so, the TT one will read up to 500hp. You want the TT AFM.
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Old 04-20-2005, 05:37 AM   #5
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your dumb as shit and your post should be removed at once, and when yours is, then mine should follow

btw I see you dont post much as youve been here quite a bit longer than your post count would show, I hope this doesnt discourage you from future posting, but I would hope you think next time before pushing bullshit into the mix.
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Old 04-20-2005, 08:16 AM   #6
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Hey f$%K you you yanky piece of crap, when you turkey's were still running around in ka truck engine pieces of crap we'd been doing sr conversions etc here for years, (and had complete import s13 sr's here). There are 2 part numbers for Z32 AFM 1 for NA and 1 for TT. They have been tested for voltage to airflow capacity and that's the fact jack, so unless you have been involved intuning them and have the facts shut your stupid dumb shit mouth.
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:54 PM   #7
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Question

i have a real quick question ive been wonderin about for a long time... how much does a SR20DET weigh in a base model 240sx?(no power windows,sunroof,etc.)

thanks.
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Old 09-02-2007, 11:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerryb View Post
Z32 NA and TT AFM look the same but are different. The difference is that the NA AFM will read up to 350hp or so, the TT one will read up to 500hp. You want the TT AFM.
wow, going through this thread looking for some info and saw this completely incorrect piece of info^ TT and NA z32 mafs are the same...
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Old 11-10-2004, 09:20 PM   #9
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Sr trannys suck. Why do you think all the pro drifters use os giken gear sets. I have blown 2 trannys in half a season. Ernie fixmer blew 2 at just one formula d event.
Trannys are fine but gear sets are weak
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Old 12-16-2004, 03:00 PM   #10
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SRs are so oil dependent it's not even funny. If you can do anything to help the motor get more oil efficiently, hold more oil, cool it down, do it.
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Old 02-20-2005, 09:59 AM   #11
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Stop posting up stupid questions in the FAQ. It's for answering questions (the A and the Q), not asking. Make threads for that.
If I have to prune more posts from this FAQ, I'm going to lock it.
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Old 07-23-2010, 04:30 PM   #12
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s13 sr20det how to fix code 34

I have searched the web and used FSM and found limited info on how to fix code 34.I found write ups on how to bypass the sensor using a resistor,did not want to go that route ,cause if i did and my engine did begin to ping/knock The ECU would not be able to retard timing ,thus preventing engine damage,just want to protect my investment.
1.code 34 means there is something wrong with the knock sensor circuit.It does not mean your engine is knocking.
2.The knock sensor is a Resistor and should read 560M Ohms.
3.on ECU pin 27 (white wire) should produce 5volts with knock sensor disconnected KOEO. KS plug is located between intake runners 3 and 4 disconect it before checking supplied voltage.If OK move on to next step
4.With the KS plug still being disconected check resistance from A (white wire) to engine ground ,it should read 560ohms,wiggle wire connection under manifold ,if resistance changes ,theres your problem,remove KS and check plug and KS for cracks .Replace if ks is out of specs.

This is how the knock circuit works, ECU supplies 5 volts to knock sensor ,KS has a base resistance of 560M ohms when the engine is not knocking.The voltage is stepped down to 2.5 volts (this is normal).

When the KS senses knocking vibration or pinging the sensor changes resistance in the circuit ,this causes the Voltage to oscillate above and below 2.5volts.Then the ECU retards timing in order to prevent engine damage.

Best thing to do on an sr20det powered 240 is to hook up the Consult Diagnostic coinnector and buy a USB to serial Consult cable and download some free software .hook it up to a laptop and you can instantly read all sensor voltages and codes ,I hated doing the LED flashing sequence crap.Otherwise theres no way to really know if we have a code ,I mean we dont have a functional "check engine light"on our gauge cluster to let us know.You can tell when your engine is running like crap tho,but As far as having to do the Flashing LED On the ECU ,forget that!This way is much easier.
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Old 01-21-2011, 10:23 PM   #13
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s13 89 S13 240sx

I just bought an '89 240. All i can find as far as sr20det motors is 90-93 motors. Will this fit in my '89 or does it have to be specifically for an '89 240? And where is a good place to order an sr from?
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Old 01-22-2011, 05:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14chicka View Post
Anyone wanna explain the difference between a s13 sr20det blacktop and the s14 sr20 blacktop?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1sttime240driver View Post
I just bought an '89 240. All i can find as far as sr20det motors is 90-93 motors. Will this fit in my '89 or does it have to be specifically for an '89 240? And where is a good place to order an sr from?
Both of you need to search... This isn't a Q&A thread, it is strictly for information.

Nissan SR20DET - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:39 AM   #15
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The S14 oil filter 15208-65F0C can be replaced with the much larger Purolator oil filter L14610 or the Super Tech ST 7317 (Walmart brand).
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Old 10-10-2013, 05:24 AM   #16
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hire a taxi in chandigarh

hire a taxi in chandigarh

Nice blog,very informative and design your article.I think other website proprietors should take this web site as an model, very clean and wonderful user genial style and design, as well as the content. You are an expert in this topic!
Thanks
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Old 03-14-2005, 10:36 PM   #17
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Can someone tell me what are the oil presure readings- used the search tool, got for sale threads mainly.

Idle sometimes I see 15psi, sometiems 20
mid throttle: 45-60psi
full throttle: 80-100psi.

during warmup the guage reads 45-60psi.

by the way Im useing a Megan Racing guage, it was cheap, so yea are these accurate?
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Old 03-15-2005, 03:05 PM   #18
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fyi all motors ahould have higher oil press when cold.

A good rule of thumb is 10 Psi oil pressure for every thousand rpm.

If you have at least this then your good.
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Old 08-09-2005, 10:00 AM   #19
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s14 sr into 96 240sx help

Hey, I am doing an s14 sr into s14 96 240sx and I have the complete wring harness and the jdm ecu. There are four plugs on the inside-of-the-firewall end of the harness, the ecu plug, another large plug (which is obvious where it goes so ok), and then 2 blue relay plugs. On the 240sx harness though there is one blue relay plug, and then this 8wire little white plug that attatches to a plug that seems to run to the back of the car. What to I do with this difference? I found which of the 2 relay plugs match up, but I am left with an unaccounted for relay plug on the sr harness and a empty white plug in the car. what should I do?
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Old 08-18-2005, 06:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brrr
Hey, I am doing an s14 sr into s14 96 240sx and I have the complete wring harness and the jdm ecu. There are four plugs on the inside-of-the-firewall end of the harness, the ecu plug, another large plug (which is obvious where it goes so ok), and then 2 blue relay plugs. On the 240sx harness though there is one blue relay plug, and then this 8wire little white plug that attatches to a plug that seems to run to the back of the car. What to I do with this difference? I found which of the 2 relay plugs match up, but I am left with an unaccounted for relay plug on the sr harness and a empty white plug in the car. what should I do?
mod said no questions.. fuk man read..
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DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD UNLESS YOU HAVE AN ANSWER TO A FAQ!

-incase of hotpipe clearance issue
to add; If you want your SR hotpipe to sit LOWER(S13 SR), use a S14 turbo inlet pipe..
hotpipe /w bov sits nice and low.

s14 inlet pipe is shorter then s13 inlet pipe.
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Old 09-04-2005, 02:26 PM   #21
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This is a diagram I made for converting your your #62 harness to work with a J4 ECU, and visca versa.

it illustrates the differences between #62, E5, and J4 ecus.very handy!

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:03 PM   #22
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is the 95 sr20det with vtc a 4 cylinder?
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:15 PM   #23
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Quote:
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is the 95 sr20det with vtc a 4 cylinder?
Thats debateable, it has 16 valves.
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:40 PM   #24
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I have a S15 SR in a S14 chassis and redid my entire harness from scratch. This could be useful for anyone wanting to do the same.


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Old 03-10-2008, 06:04 PM   #25
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S13 KA24DE Cam cap bolts/cam tower bolts/call them what you want, are interchangeable with S13 SR20 Cam cap bolts/cam tower bolts.

i snapped my S13 SR20 bolt while torquing it after installing RASs(yes i know i'm retarded for doing it). i honestly couldn't find anything about them on zilvia or the internet. keep in mind the "outer" cam cap bolts are longer than the "inner (closer to spark plugs)" bolts. i only used the inner, and that is all i can vouch for. hope this helps! oh yeah, and i removed the snapped bolt with an ez-out or bolt extractor (lol call it what you want)

if you would like more details, feel free to PM me
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Old 03-28-2005, 04:45 PM   #26
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Just posting some things I did not see in this thread, however it may be in the links. Plz delete if overlapping.

SR = Block
20 = 2.0L Displacement
D = DOHC
E = Fuel Injected
T = Single Turbocharger

2.0L DOHC Turbo
Turbo Type: T25G
Compressor A/R: 0.80
Injector Size: 370cc
Bore x Stroke: 86.0mm x 86.0mm
Displacement: 1998cc
Performance: SR20DET:
Power (ps): 205@ 6000 rpm
Torque (kgm): 28.0@ 4000 rpm
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Speed Limiter:180 Kmh -112 mph
Stock Boost: 7 psi
ECU: 62 (redtop) OR E5 (blacktop). 63 (automatic) will also work.
MAFS: 89-90 240sx mafs works.
Rev Limit: 7500rpm (no need to really go over 7200)

Gear Ratios:

Gear Ratios - Manual Transmission
1st 3.321
2nd 1.902
3rd 1.308
4th 1.000
5th 0.759
Reverse 3.382
Final 4.083

S13 ECU Pinout (thanks to CM510.com)


Zenki S14 SR ECU Pinout (thanks to 200sx.org)


Classic battery area wiring diagram from heavy throttle:
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Old 04-07-2005, 02:16 PM   #27
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The power specs, and turbo that Sequence Garage listed are for s13 sr20det only. S14 is 220hp (I think) with a t28 turbo. The s15 is 250hp (again, I think) and uses yet another turbo.
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Old 04-10-2005, 12:27 AM   #28
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S15 same turbo with cast divider wall, bigger injectors, and I think thicker beams but not sure. Both S14 and S15 blacktops have VVL.
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Old 04-11-2005, 03:33 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLT123
S15 same turbo with cast divider wall, bigger injectors, and I think thicker beams but not sure. Both S14 and S15 blacktops have VTC.
there..fixed it for ya...would really be a fun motor if they have vvl...but sadly they dont..so dont spread incorrect info.
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Old 04-16-2005, 01:49 AM   #30
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At the bottom of this tread they talk about bhoost for stock sr20det turbo. I have found from personnal experiance that the turbo will at least put out 1.3mb, or 18 psi, but I have stock everything, so detination was the final outcome, but it would put out more if you had bigger inj, front mount IC. I'm running it at 14 psi right now with no problems. Thats with a greddy boost controller.

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