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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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10-06-2004, 05:06 AM | #1 |
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ECU Error Code 34
(This faq is for an sr20det, sr20de, ka24de, ka24e?)
If you receive ECU Error code 34, it means one of two things: a) Bad Knock Sensor b) Bad connection to knock sensor Like many things, Knock Sensors can just "Go Bad". First, look for the grey conector between the 3rd and 4th intake runners, there may be two, the bigger one is the o2 sensor, the smaller one is the knock sensor. Unplug the knock sensor connector and check the wiring, likewise, follow the wiring down to under the intake manifold and feel that the wiring hasn't fallen out. Either way you're going to have to remove the knock sensor to thoroughly check. My knock sensor on my sr20det was held on by one 12mm bolt, to remove it i just reached down under the intake manifold and unbolted it, it was agonizing but it worked and i replaced the whole thing in 15 minutes. Other people would normally go from under the car and remove the starter to get to it, or remove the intake manifold. This is not compeletely necessary, but smaller hands do help. When you get the old knock sensor off look for these things: a) Discoloration of the copper side (means its toast) b) Frayed wires c) any cracks in the knock sensor d) Plug is damaged e) not receiving enough electricity If you see wiring problems then i suggest you fix them, plug the knock sensor back in, bolt it up, reset ECU, drive the car, and see if the error comes up again. Otherwise just replace the little demon. If you have an sr20det then go to Nissan or Napa and get the knock sensor off a 1991 Nissan Sentra SER (Sr20de), If you have a CA18det then get it off a Pulsar, KA's should be selft explanatory because they are american made. Knock sensors are not cheap, mine was $118.00 it sucks, but live with it. Once you have the new knock sensor, replace the old one, double check wiring, bolt it back up, and reset ECU, drive car around, check ecu, if its not fixed then you have wiring issues most likely, that i can't help you with but there are ways to check the electrical charge. Good Luck |
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10-29-2004, 11:25 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
-Jeff
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04-20-2005, 05:37 AM | #5 |
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your dumb as shit and your post should be removed at once, and when yours is, then mine should follow
btw I see you dont post much as youve been here quite a bit longer than your post count would show, I hope this doesnt discourage you from future posting, but I would hope you think next time before pushing bullshit into the mix.
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04-20-2005, 08:16 AM | #6 |
Hey f$%K you you yanky piece of crap, when you turkey's were still running around in ka truck engine pieces of crap we'd been doing sr conversions etc here for years, (and had complete import s13 sr's here). There are 2 part numbers for Z32 AFM 1 for NA and 1 for TT. They have been tested for voltage to airflow capacity and that's the fact jack, so unless you have been involved intuning them and have the facts shut your stupid dumb shit mouth.
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10-20-2005, 02:54 PM | #7 |
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i have a real quick question ive been wonderin about for a long time... how much does a SR20DET weigh in a base model 240sx?(no power windows,sunroof,etc.)
thanks.
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09-02-2007, 11:30 AM | #8 |
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wow, going through this thread looking for some info and saw this completely incorrect piece of info^ TT and NA z32 mafs are the same...
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11-10-2004, 09:20 PM | #9 |
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Sr trannys suck. Why do you think all the pro drifters use os giken gear sets. I have blown 2 trannys in half a season. Ernie fixmer blew 2 at just one formula d event.
Trannys are fine but gear sets are weak
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12-16-2004, 03:00 PM | #10 |
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SRs are so oil dependent it's not even funny. If you can do anything to help the motor get more oil efficiently, hold more oil, cool it down, do it.
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02-20-2005, 09:59 AM | #11 |
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Stop posting up stupid questions in the FAQ. It's for answering questions (the A and the Q), not asking. Make threads for that.
If I have to prune more posts from this FAQ, I'm going to lock it. -Jeff
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07-23-2010, 04:30 PM | #12 |
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sr20det how to fix code 34
I have searched the web and used FSM and found limited info on how to fix code 34.I found write ups on how to bypass the sensor using a resistor,did not want to go that route ,cause if i did and my engine did begin to ping/knock The ECU would not be able to retard timing ,thus preventing engine damage,just want to protect my investment.
1.code 34 means there is something wrong with the knock sensor circuit.It does not mean your engine is knocking. 2.The knock sensor is a Resistor and should read 560M Ohms. 3.on ECU pin 27 (white wire) should produce 5volts with knock sensor disconnected KOEO. KS plug is located between intake runners 3 and 4 disconect it before checking supplied voltage.If OK move on to next step 4.With the KS plug still being disconected check resistance from A (white wire) to engine ground ,it should read 560ohms,wiggle wire connection under manifold ,if resistance changes ,theres your problem,remove KS and check plug and KS for cracks .Replace if ks is out of specs. This is how the knock circuit works, ECU supplies 5 volts to knock sensor ,KS has a base resistance of 560M ohms when the engine is not knocking.The voltage is stepped down to 2.5 volts (this is normal). When the KS senses knocking vibration or pinging the sensor changes resistance in the circuit ,this causes the Voltage to oscillate above and below 2.5volts.Then the ECU retards timing in order to prevent engine damage. Best thing to do on an sr20det powered 240 is to hook up the Consult Diagnostic coinnector and buy a USB to serial Consult cable and download some free software .hook it up to a laptop and you can instantly read all sensor voltages and codes ,I hated doing the LED flashing sequence crap.Otherwise theres no way to really know if we have a code ,I mean we dont have a functional "check engine light"on our gauge cluster to let us know.You can tell when your engine is running like crap tho,but As far as having to do the Flashing LED On the ECU ,forget that!This way is much easier.
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Last edited by nismolvr; 07-23-2010 at 05:42 PM.. Reason: update |
01-21-2011, 10:23 PM | #13 |
89 S13 240sx
I just bought an '89 240. All i can find as far as sr20det motors is 90-93 motors. Will this fit in my '89 or does it have to be specifically for an '89 240? And where is a good place to order an sr from?
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01-22-2011, 05:24 AM | #14 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Nissan SR20DET - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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*My SR20VET* Does your VTC gear rattle in your S14/15 SR? PM me. |
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10-10-2013, 05:24 AM | #16 |
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Nice blog,very informative and design your article.I think other website proprietors should take this web site as an model, very clean and wonderful user genial style and design, as well as the content. You are an expert in this topic! Thanks |
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03-14-2005, 10:36 PM | #17 |
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Can someone tell me what are the oil presure readings- used the search tool, got for sale threads mainly.
Idle sometimes I see 15psi, sometiems 20 mid throttle: 45-60psi full throttle: 80-100psi. during warmup the guage reads 45-60psi. by the way Im useing a Megan Racing guage, it was cheap, so yea are these accurate? |
03-15-2005, 03:05 PM | #18 |
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fyi all motors ahould have higher oil press when cold.
A good rule of thumb is 10 Psi oil pressure for every thousand rpm. If you have at least this then your good. |
08-09-2005, 10:00 AM | #19 |
s14 sr into 96 240sx help
Hey, I am doing an s14 sr into s14 96 240sx and I have the complete wring harness and the jdm ecu. There are four plugs on the inside-of-the-firewall end of the harness, the ecu plug, another large plug (which is obvious where it goes so ok), and then 2 blue relay plugs. On the 240sx harness though there is one blue relay plug, and then this 8wire little white plug that attatches to a plug that seems to run to the back of the car. What to I do with this difference? I found which of the 2 relay plugs match up, but I am left with an unaccounted for relay plug on the sr harness and a empty white plug in the car. what should I do?
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08-18-2005, 06:03 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
bigass letters DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD UNLESS YOU HAVE AN ANSWER TO A FAQ! -incase of hotpipe clearance issue to add; If you want your SR hotpipe to sit LOWER(S13 SR), use a S14 turbo inlet pipe.. hotpipe /w bov sits nice and low. s14 inlet pipe is shorter then s13 inlet pipe. |
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09-04-2005, 02:26 PM | #21 |
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This is a diagram I made for converting your your #62 harness to work with a J4 ECU, and visca versa.
it illustrates the differences between #62, E5, and J4 ecus.very handy! http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1 |
03-10-2008, 06:04 PM | #25 |
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S13 KA24DE Cam cap bolts/cam tower bolts/call them what you want, are interchangeable with S13 SR20 Cam cap bolts/cam tower bolts.
i snapped my S13 SR20 bolt while torquing it after installing RASs(yes i know i'm retarded for doing it). i honestly couldn't find anything about them on zilvia or the internet. keep in mind the "outer" cam cap bolts are longer than the "inner (closer to spark plugs)" bolts. i only used the inner, and that is all i can vouch for. hope this helps! oh yeah, and i removed the snapped bolt with an ez-out or bolt extractor (lol call it what you want) if you would like more details, feel free to PM me |
03-28-2005, 04:45 PM | #26 |
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Just posting some things I did not see in this thread, however it may be in the links. Plz delete if overlapping.
SR = Block 20 = 2.0L Displacement D = DOHC E = Fuel Injected T = Single Turbocharger 2.0L DOHC Turbo Turbo Type: T25G Compressor A/R: 0.80 Injector Size: 370cc Bore x Stroke: 86.0mm x 86.0mm Displacement: 1998cc Performance: SR20DET: Power (ps): 205@ 6000 rpm Torque (kgm): 28.0@ 4000 rpm Compression Ratio: 8.5:1 Speed Limiter:180 Kmh -112 mph Stock Boost: 7 psi ECU: 62 (redtop) OR E5 (blacktop). 63 (automatic) will also work. MAFS: 89-90 240sx mafs works. Rev Limit: 7500rpm (no need to really go over 7200) Gear Ratios: Gear Ratios - Manual Transmission 1st 3.321 2nd 1.902 3rd 1.308 4th 1.000 5th 0.759 Reverse 3.382 Final 4.083 S13 ECU Pinout (thanks to CM510.com) Zenki S14 SR ECU Pinout (thanks to 200sx.org) Classic battery area wiring diagram from heavy throttle: |
04-07-2005, 02:16 PM | #27 |
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The power specs, and turbo that Sequence Garage listed are for s13 sr20det only. S14 is 220hp (I think) with a t28 turbo. The s15 is 250hp (again, I think) and uses yet another turbo.
-Jeff
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04-11-2005, 03:33 PM | #29 | |
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Quote:
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04-16-2005, 01:49 AM | #30 |
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At the bottom of this tread they talk about bhoost for stock sr20det turbo. I have found from personnal experiance that the turbo will at least put out 1.3mb, or 18 psi, but I have stock everything, so detination was the final outcome, but it would put out more if you had bigger inj, front mount IC. I'm running it at 14 psi right now with no problems. Thats with a greddy boost controller.
Last edited by closebyu26; 04-16-2005 at 02:17 AM.. |
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