New Garrett GTX2867r

[codyace]

I can say the car certainly flows more air now....

...as It's developed spark blow out above 18psi


So for now I'm going to sort out what that's happening, and have Clark send me a new chip with 5m/s dwell. The plugs are new, but I may gap them even tighter as a quick test to see if that eliminates the issuee. If it does we certainly know where to go.

So for now, 15 psi it is...which is plenty fun

[di-devol]

What's your gap right now?

[codyace]

.022 I'm gonna bring it back to .020 and .018 to see if it clears it up.

[nash-singapore]

Thanks for so much Info Codyace. Considering a gt2871 .64 VS the GTX 2867 .64.

Will def wait for more reviews and updates from you as im not in a rush

[ka-turbo]

idk were u got that info from, cause i also read it and theres no were, where it says they only sell it as a .72 a/r.......

i just recieved my turbo.....FINALLY as well...and i have a few question.
1. the back/exhaust turbine has the metal round flat piece behind the exhaust turbine...is it normal to have a little bit of play in that metal round flat piece?
2.did anyone else get that piece for the turbine housing to connect it to the turbo itself? or was that seperate....and how much does that cost?
3. did anyone ever fig out how i could delineate the exhaust housing on wether or not it is a 72 vs 64

[codyace]

[QUOTE=ka-turbo;4649674]
i just recieved my turbo.....FINALLY as well...and i have a few question.
1. the back/exhaust turbine has the metal round flat piece behind the exhaust turbine...is it normal to have a little bit of play in that metal round flat piece?[/quoote]

Yes, that is the seal. Once you get the housing on that will be tight as concrete.

Originally Posted by ka-turbo

2.did anyone else get that piece for the turbine housing to connect it to the turbo itself? or was that seperate....and how much does that cost?

In addition to the turbine housing you'll need the locking plates (3 of them) and the bolts.

Originally Posted by ka-turbo

3. did anyone ever fig out how i could delineate the exhaust housing on wether or not it is a 72 vs 64

The wheel is the same trim/size/type...the housings are what have different A/R .64/.86 being the traditional common Garrett housings (in T2 flange) and then the .72 ATP one.

[huffandpuff00]

Originally Posted by ka-turbo

3. did anyone ever fig out how i could delineate the exhaust housing on wether or not it is a 72 vs 64

The housing only comes in a .72, where did you see the .64 option?

I have that same atp t25-ewg-44 housing and it doesnt have any AR markings anywhere...

[ka-turbo]

Originally Posted by huffandpuff00

The housing only comes in a .72, where did you see the .64 option?

I have that same atp t25-ewg-44 housing and it doesnt have any AR markings anywhere...

ok well i got the same housing then... .72 but i asked the guy for .64 and well looks like i got the .72 but oh well im sure it will still spool really good and have a better top end...


KA-T, GTX soon to be up and running lol

[ka-turbo]

and im assuming nobody got the lokcing plate with there exhaust housing...or turbo itself???....were can i get them

THNX for the help

[codyace]

Originally Posted by ka-turbo

and im assuming nobody got the lokcing plate with there exhaust housing...or turbo itself???....were can i get them

THNX for the help

ATP has em

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=HAC

[huffandpuff00]

Went to PSI and found my turbo had been but back together with coated turbine and manifold. I played around with the MVS and there is around a 1/2" clearance between top and strut tower. Next is rerouting some PS lines and wrapping everything in fire sleeve.


also someone asked if it would be easier to weld a MVS flange on the normal turbine housing. The atp housing gets fatter for the flange which made it easy for my flange to get welded on, but im sure a good fabricator would be able to make it happen just fine.

bubbles out for flange


No bubble

[di-devol]

Looks good, glad you got enough clearance. i was there this morning, guess i missed you again.

[codyace]

The big issue I would have, is is there enough room to really get the flange there and properly venting into the turbo. Should work though.


Another thing to consider, if it's a 1/4 inch away, will it rub under accelleration?

[Def]

The engine torques away from the driver's side framerail IIRC.

[codyace]

Ahhhh that is true..i forgot about my personal dislike torque dampers as they really dont do anythingx

[slider2828]

But torque dampers are static in both directions... They helped a lot on my engine...

[MadScientist]

Will one of you fools please just go put this on a Dyno... your killing us!!

[huffandpuff00]

Ill get close up pics on Thursday of the WG mounted, but there is lots of room(1/2" or more) between strut tower. My issue now is moving my PS return line to accommodate the dump pipe.

[e1_griego]

Originally Posted by MadScientist

Will one of you fools please just go put this on a Dyno... your killing us!!

Hopefully in the next 2-3 weeks -- got it installed tonight, but haven't fired the car up yet.

[codyace]

Smashed plug gap down to .019 tonight and took it out for a rip at 20 psi....holy shit does it fly....

...brought it back in and went to check plugs again and lo and behd when i pulled the one plug off it left the crimped metal part on the plug...essentially pulling it out of the new boots. FUCK.

Took some pics and sent them to magnecor...i hope they can hook me up. I think i could normally fix this but dont want to tear it apart just in tge event they want it for.warrenty.

So it definetly will need more dwell than factory to work at a normal .025ish gap...but other than that it runs great at big boost. I can say for sure now that this turbo is much more responsive than the old 1 maybe not over r p m that certainly overtime. Do not get me wrong though the dyno does not lie and will still test it. I hope i can rig it up for this sundays dynoday

[LuckyX2]

Glad to hear it's hauling ass. Shame about the troubles but whatever, that's high performance car ownership...

What dyno day are you talking about Sunday?

[jr_ss]

Cody, you could always go to a performance shop and have them make you up a quick set of spare wires. Usually anyone that stocks wires/ends/terminals has the tools necessary to build wires on hand.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Cody, you could always go to a performance shop and have them make you up a quick set of spare wires. Usually anyone that stocks wires/ends/terminals has the tools necessary to build wires on hand.

The thing is with these wires, is that I don't have the traditional setup, as they are a major PITA to get onto the plugs themselves, once they are in the engine. You can almsot forget about remvoing them properly.


I had Magnecore make me a set with FWD SR20 boots, and then the LSX packs on the other. Being that NO ONE offers the long shank style boosts in a DIY kit, I was forced to use them. I think I'll be able to salvage this one by getting dukes of hazzard on it, but I still have two new ones on the way (one spare now to prevent this from happening again).

[codyace]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

Glad to hear it's hauling ass. Shame about the troubles but whatever, that's high performance car ownership...

What dyno day are you talking about Sunday?

Sloppy Mechanics Dyno Day

Check the Northeast States section for more info

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by codyace

The thing is with these wires, is that I don't have the traditional setup, as they are a major PITA to get onto the plugs themselves, once they are in the engine. You can almsot forget about remvoing them properly.


I had Magnecore make me a set with FWD SR20 boots, and then the LSX packs on the other. Being that NO ONE offers the long shank style boosts in a DIY kit, I was forced to use them. I think I'll be able to salvage this one by getting dukes of hazzard on it, but I still have two new ones on the way (one spare now to prevent this from happening again).

When I had the LSx conversion on my SR I used long boots made by MSD however they didn't seal around the plug hole like the factory coils. It wasn't that big of a deal to me, but some people prefer to keep them sealed. With that said I have extra connectors(both ends) and wires if you or anyone you know needs them. I now have AEM pencil coils with the VVL setup.

Either way, looking forward to seeing results. I've been wanting a fairly stock DD setup to run for response etc, not that the VVL won't be, but it's more of a track car now.

[codyace]

Yea the sealing aspect wasn't an issue to me, but man were they a real jerk to get on and off correctly/securly in my setup. I used the MSD straight boots.

my other consideration was the fact that I mounted my coils where the cruise control stuff was on the s14, as a way to keep them from the heat, while keeping the engine itself less cluttered. I was initially going to use the OEM GM plugs, but the coils had to be mounted in a way that also interfered with the hood. My other option was to mount them to the intake, and then purchase Honda MSD plugs, hack the end, and then adapt the MSD LSX coil boots...but the cost was the same as these Magnacores, so it seemed as a no brainer to go with the right end, and save myself the hacking.


I know I know, I sound like Mr Excuse, but the setup was great...well, until the crimp stayed on the plug. Agian I'm supposed to have new ones coming, I think I can push the wire through this the long shank boot, recrimp, and ten pull it back through...but I didn't want to do that until I had the yay/nay from magnacore


I reallly can't think of a more fun street car setup...sure a 28RS based car would be fun (even a GT28r), but lets be serious, who wouldn't want the top end haha.

[Def]

Originally Posted by codyace

Smashed plug gap down to .019 tonight and took it out for a rip at 20 psi....holy shit does it fly....

...brought it back in and went to check plugs again and lo and behd when i pulled the one plug off it left the crimped metal part on the plug...essentially pulling it out of the new boots. FUCK.

Took some pics and sent them to magnecor...i hope they can hook me up. I think i could normally fix this but dont want to tear it apart just in tge event they want it for.warrenty.

So it definetly will need more dwell than factory to work at a normal .025ish gap...but other than that it runs great at big boost. I can say for sure now that this turbo is much more responsive than the old 1 maybe not over r p m that certainly overtime. Do not get me wrong though the dyno does not lie and will still test it. I hope i can rig it up for this sundays dynoday

You running copper BKR7E's? You should be running iridiums (BKR7EIX) - so much nicer of a plug, and they are much more efficient. Coppers take much more voltage to jump the gap when new, and then get really bad after just 500-1000 miles.

[huffandpuff00]

here is a horrible picture of the WG on, i was in a rush



Dump



ill try to get a better clearance picture sometime

[jr_ss]

Huff- How tight is that dump to the frame rail? Only concern is it'll hit the frame under heavy load. My top mount dump was a little too close and on hard acceleration mine would hit/vibrate.

[MadScientist]

Originally Posted by Def

You running copper BKR7E's? You should be running iridiums (BKR7EIX) - so much nicer of a plug, and they are much more efficient. Coppers take much more voltage to jump the gap when new, and then get really bad after just 500-1000 miles.

Its an HP thing... IX come pre-gap and its very hard and risky to adjust the gap.
The evo guys run these all the time because they hold for around 3k miles then they trash them because there cheep on the wallet.

If your running a COP w/ CDI the copper will not foul so early, and does produce good burn.