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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 09-01-2016, 05:30 AM   #1
jaysgottaredtop
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You mean IACV?

Anywhere in the charge piping between the turbo and the throttle body. Relative placement to BOV doesn't matter.
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:27 AM   #2
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Yes IACV. I had a dyslexic moment.

Thank you.

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Old 08-11-2017, 01:37 AM   #3
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JDM Parts Request/ Supply

I am currently in Japan and am able to supply you with JDM Silvia parts (among many other makes) for a variety of models and years; Am and have been in the automotive industry and scene for many years, shop is based out of Texas; so no need to worry about purely overseas transactions with non US nationals. If you are searching for a part for that one off build that you can't seem to find or are just wanting to build something with JDM parts for the nostalgia, I will be more than willing to help you; feel free to contact me with any questions or needs.
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:33 PM   #4
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Hey Guys, I have two questions I was hoping you could help with? I tried to search but either missed it or couldn't find it so I apologize in advance

I have a stock S14 kouki sr20det in my S13 coupe with the NA ecu. Why doesn't the ecu have the LED lights? Is it because it's an obdII year?

The other question I have is, it seems to be running really rich you can smell the fuel in the exhaust and it backfires a ton. The guy I got it from has a MAF sensor from a Nissan Pathfinder/QX4 which is a v6 engine. This must be the culprit right?

What's the best substitute maf to run on a stock S14 sr20det? Any input you'd have would be really helpful
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Old 12-26-2017, 06:22 PM   #5
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So I've recently picked up a rnn14 gtir motor that's in decent shape aside from a spun bearing on the main crank (guessing for a second time unless the own bearings came with 5 oiling holes). Since I'm assuming one of the original owners did the usual drift to death I'm replacing all the main bearings.

I've measured the crank X and Y axis. As well as measured the block with the caps and girdle torqued down with the bearings in and with the bearings out.

My problem is that even with the FSM math it still leaves me in the dark with actually selecting a size. (Probably going ACL or king) as this isn't going to be a high boost/ HP rebuild but will see quite a bit of time in the high end rev range in short spurts.

Anyone know a good place to start? Or just order a set with slightly less oil clearance and hope for the best on a plasti gauge double check? Access to parts up here in Ontario is pretty limited so don't really want to spend a fortune on ordering a bunch of different ones.

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Old 01-05-2018, 08:37 AM   #6
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iirc theres a rebuild article that goes over which size to select...seeing if you are still within oem spec ACL standard will usually cover you...if theres more wear you need to verify if you want +1...just throwing them on there will be your best way to spin again...
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Old 02-22-2018, 11:05 AM   #7
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Anyone have the specs for the 2 starter bolts on an S15 sr20de?

Cheers

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Old 06-06-2020, 01:32 AM   #8
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In need of a diagram for S13 SR20DET fuse box connectors, and the KA24DE connectors diagram. S13 SR going into S14. PLEASE HELP!!!!!
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Old 11-16-2020, 11:52 AM   #9
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SR SR20det no spark

A rocker arm exploded so I replaced the rocker arms, cams and installed rocker arm stoppers. After I had gotten everything put back together and timed correctly my car is getting 0 spark and I can't figure out why. I never unplugged any of the coilpacks so not sure what happened. I do have a apex power fc in the car but I don't think that would have done anything. Not sure what else to do so just looking for some advice on what could be the issue.
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Old 11-16-2020, 04:38 PM   #10
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U cas plugged in properly, connector is clean and free of debis and wayer
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Old 11-17-2020, 12:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14rebuild View Post
U cas plugged in properly, connector is clean and free of debis and wayer
Yes, checked all that before plugging in. let it crank for about 15 seconds with no spark to see if something would happen and I got a loud backfire but there was still no spark
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Old 11-17-2020, 12:47 PM   #12
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Backfire means there is spark..
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Old 11-18-2020, 01:01 PM   #13
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Can't backfire without spark. Sounds like the CAS is not timed correctly.
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Old 02-10-2005, 09:59 AM   #14
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redtop into 97

I'm pretty sure I have everything done so far for the swap. I'm swapping in a 89-91 early year redtop into my 97 240sx. First I swapped the Smaller black plug on my KA water temp sensor onto my sr water temp sensor. Then I swapped the 97 KA tranny speed sensor(with the red gear at the end) onto my sr20det tranny. A guy that lives near me who did the swap onto his s13 said that theres no need ot swap the sensors. As long as the sr speed sensor has a red gear at the end, it should work? Actually, he didnt even swap the temp sensor as well. could this be a redtop to s13 deal? My entire harness is done. Got the z32 fuel filter. There anything else I needa change? Thanks.

-David
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Old 12-13-2005, 01:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo_lover
i am not trying to disrupt this thread. If i am, sorry. But i do not want to start a topic for a simple question - - - > Do any of you know how much a base model 240sx fast back weighs with a SR20DET?
[ SORRY FOR THE IN-CONVIENCE ]
Thanks.

Hatch with:
*HICAS
*1/2 tank gas
*Full interior
*Power everything
*SR
!!weighed in at 2850lbs!!


Coupe with:
*Manual windows
*No interior
*30lbs wiring stripped from chasis
*1/2 tank of gas
*SR
!!weighed in at 2415lbs!!


these are my numbers, hatch was weighed in at a farm on a grain scale, so it pretty close. Coupe was weighed in on Longacre race scales at Beaverun Raceway.
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Old 01-25-2006, 09:35 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo_lover
i am not trying to disrupt this thread. If i am, sorry. But i do not want to start a topic for a simple question - - - > Do any of you know how much a base model 240sx fast back weighs with a SR20DET?
While this was an inappropriate place to ask, I do think this qualifies as a frequently asked question (and one of frequent debate).

When both engines are fully dressed in completely stock form, the SR20DET weighs within a few pounds of the KA24E and KA24DE - close enough so as not to matter. The lighter block is offset by the weight of the turbocharger and intercooler.

It's a topic of debate because no one ever swaps a completely stock SR, and the weight of both engines will vary by installed accessories.

If it's of concern to you, your best bet is to weigh the car on racer's scales after the engine swap and plan your weight savings from there, because everyone's car and engine will be different.
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:34 PM   #17
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Ran across a couple of things today while researching wastegates.....firstly, dont know if this mod has been posted, but its called a free boost upgrade....

Details here : http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/F...de-t12212.html

Another is vaccum line routing, which i found VERY USEFUL....
Details here:

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Old 04-06-2008, 06:38 PM   #18
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S14 Sr20det
13270-65f00 Valve Cover Gasket
13271-65f00 Spark Plug Gasket
13268-31u01 Valve Cover Washers (where Bolts Go Thru)
13224-2j200 Valve Cover Bolts X14
13224-52f00 Bolt (that Goes Between 2nd And 3rd Coil Pack)
21010-65f26 Or 25 Water Pump
21200-0c811 Thermostat
14036-75f00 Exaust Manifold Gasket (7 Layer)
14064-2j200 Exaust Manifold Studs X8
14037-42l02 Exaust Manifold Yolks X8
08912-8401a Exaust Manifold Nuts X8
15208-65f0c Oil Filter
11110-52f10 Oil Pan
13500-69f00 Front Cover (with Oil Pump)
08120-6201e Front Cover Bolts X10
17042-69f00 Fuel Pump
16400-41b0a Fuel Filter


S15 Spec R Sr20det
14411-91f00 Turbo
16600-91f00 Injector
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Old 06-26-2009, 02:55 PM   #19
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sr flywheel torque spec


flywheel - 94-101 ft lbs.
clutch cover - 25-34 ft lbs.


need to use threadlock for safety.
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:17 PM   #20
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the sr20det equiped in the pulsar gti-r have a larger t28 turbo with a .86 a/r exhaust housing,The s14 and s15 have .64 a/r.
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Old 11-25-2009, 01:58 PM   #21
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I'll post some information I have on S15 ECU codes because the internet is massively failing me at the moment.


So far I've encountered 2 coded ECU's for S15's. Both from the Japanese Market.


Some information from Pete at PLMS developments:
Quote:
Traditionally Nissan start off with "00" at the start of the model run and just increment each time there's an update. These are nearly all incremental. So you can swap anything in the series. We've got 91F 00, 01, 05, 06, & 07. These are all JDM images. Autos are 10 and 11. Aussie S15's are 93F00, 01 etc.


The ECU codes that I both have and tested on my JDM S15 motor are "QT" and "NQ"

QT part number is 23710 91f05
NQ part number is 23710 91f08

So from the above paragraph you can see why Pete's conclusion makes sense.

Also just some good information to have:

Quote:
Usually the best images are actually the early ones! What seems to happen is that they release the model and then tunes are updated based on feedback from dealers. From what I can work out this must often be complaints about detonation - due to inferior fuels and/or local conditions (like here in Oz we have lesser fuel than Japan and hotter weather). So they richen mixtures and lessen IGN timing figures = less power.
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