The everything cd009 swap thread.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

Internal throwout bearing gap:

I'm assuming I measure this with the slave fully compressed? The spring keeps in at full extension. Also, does this mean the bearing is always in contact with the release fingers? That doesn't sound good for wear.

The throwout bearing is not supposed to ride on the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is engaged. There should be a small gap between them.


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[brndck]

Originally Posted by Itsalexwoo

How do you find the gap

he JUST told you

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

The throwout bearing is not supposed to ride on the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is engaged. There should be a small gap between them.

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

The throwout bearing is not supposed to ride on the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is engaged. There should be a small gap between them.


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I don't see how this is possible with the internal slave throwout bearings though, that's my problem.
They're spring loaded so they're fully extended at rest. How in the world am I supposed to get that to not touch the clutch fingers?

Exhibit A: Spring loaded, always extended internal slave cylinder


Edit: I have to measure with it fully compressed. I'm guessing the hydraulic fluid holds it back when the clutch pedal isn't pressed?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html

Also, how the hell do I get the bellhousing off to ship out for machining? I removed the bolts connecting the back portion to the front (the ones that go through the "sandwich piece" that's a few inches thick) and broke most of the liquid gasket seal but I still can't get it to budge.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

Also, how the hell do I get the bellhousing off to ship out for machining? I removed the bolts connecting the back portion to the front (the ones that go through the "sandwich piece" that's a few inches thick) and broke most of the liquid gasket seal but I still can't get it to budge.

You need to remove the front cover, and the snap rings underneath the front cover. Also there's one bolt underneath the black inspection plate on top of the trans that people forget to remove that holds the bellhousing on.






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[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

You need to remove the front cover, and the snap rings underneath the front cover. Also there's one bolt underneath the black inspection plate on top of the trans that people forget to remove that holds the bellhousing on.

Thanks, that's what I was missing.

Also just want to say that I wish I had known more about the HR trans when I got into this. Was planning on a CD009 but then a low mileage JK40C came up cheap and I went for it. Then I read about the slave cylinders being garbage so I wound up buying a $430 ZSpeed slave ($325 + line + twin plate adapter + shipping). $350 for the adapter, $430 for the slave, $400 for the driveshaft, $175 for the shifter, $100 for machining, $100 for the crossmember and I'm at the price of the Mazworx kit. That slave I didn't plan on buying really ruined the budget.

So tl;dr if you have an HR trans, just get the Mazworx kit. DE trans you can save $400-500 going with an adapter plate if you wish.