Ca S14 zenki VVL super build

[blackdragon328]

Good day Ladies and Gents,


I keep seeing build threads and this is likely my biggest build to date so I have decided to put it up and see if I can get some feedback. SO yes, I welcome feedback, positive or negative, but please don't randomly trash my thread. If I'm wrong on something, give me proof, or at least explain why, then I can change things as needed and that helps me out in the end.

SO: onto the build. here is the history and then the parts planned for this, some are already in the car, some are sitting around the shop or on their way to it and a few are back-ordered which drives me nuts...but that's life.

The history: I bought the car lightly built from a gentleman in Paso Robles CA, it had some pretty crazy wiring issues but it was rather cheap so I decided to buy it anyway, and tackle the wiring problem on my own (it still drove fine and didnt seem to have any major problems, except upon cold start). the guy who sold it to me said it had over 400whp...I was a little skeptical but it pulled well (I figured at least 300whp) so I decided I'd throw it on a dyno later and see if that was accurate.

After about a year, there started being a little valve tap which pissed me off to no end, so I took the entire head off and rebuilt it with solid lifters and cams from tomei as well as porting it. I also spent some time reworking my interior to make it a little nicer (the result is what I have now) and decided to go with a Power FC (over the tuned stock ECU). I Dyno tuned it at that point and it came out to 347whp with my upgrades which means it probably had 280-300whp when i bought it

about 4 months ago, my oil pump went out while I was having a little fun on the freeway at high boost aaaand that was the end of my motor...almost the entire thing was destroyed, the cams where shot, the walls had scratches on them, the cam journals had crazy grooves in em and there were metal shards everywhere and some bent valves... I only salvaged the solid lifters, valve springs, and the block, which I over-bored to get rid of the lightly scratched side walls. That was when the project began!

background on me, I live in Santa Barbara, there are a ton of idiots with too much money and not enough brains that own very expensive super-cars such as Ferrari, Lamborghini, and Porsche and some nicer ones such as Spyker or Koenigsegg, I decided to tackle the former (for now). So I went to G-dimension and James, the owner, who has been a good friend of mine and my main mechanic/tuner for the last 8 years or so. And I asked him the following: I want a car that can beat high end cars in acceleration from zero-80, and in mid range from 60-100. That's the goal anyway...Then things snowballed, I was told that my brakes where not big enough to handle such power (obviously) so I went with the GTR33 brakes, so for that I needed 5 lug, for the 5 lug I needed new rims, and to fit my rims (-15 offset...didn't choose it, bought em used) I needed a wide-body.
As for the motor, we started to look into viable options, we finally decided to stick with the SR block and then questioned a possible 2.3 or 2.4L SR with VVL. In the end that came out too expensive, so we looked at VVL 2.0L and decided to go that route. That's basically where we are at...we have chatted for over 40 hours on every detail so far and have come up with what I think is a decent plan but I am open to getting opinions and am glad if someone mentions something I forgot as it will only better my car.

we are going to do 3 tunes at the end, a conservative one on 91 gas w/water injection, a max tune on 91 gas w/methanol, and a race gas tune w/methanol and max boost. I'll post the numbers but it looks like we are going to get a good 500 to 600whp which is basically what I am aiming for so if I can reach it I'll be very happy.


Onto the parts going into it:

• Shell, 1996 Nissan 240sx S14 (Zenki)

motor:

• 1998 SR20DET notchtop with a VVL conversion
• AEM EMS with wideband

-top end:

• VVL heads
• ported and polished
• ARP studs
• Cosworth head gasket
• oem rebuild kit
• mazworx VVL conversion
• mazworx full intake manifold
• mazworx fuel rail
• bosch 1000cc injectors
• Circuit sport FPR
• 90mm throttle body
• Methanol direct port injection

-bottom end:

• CP pistons (87mm)
• Carrillo rods
• ARP studs
• Tomei bearings
• oem rebuild kit
• blueprinted, balanced etc
• Moroso oil pan

-turbo/exhaust setup

• full race manifold
• custom built downpipe
• custom built wastegate pipe (all the way to the back)
• apexi turbo back
• tial 40mm wastegate
• Borg warner s256 85ar
• intercooler (new one, donno brand yet)
• Greddy BOV
• blitz boost controller
• Zero1000 turbo timer

-Driveline

• welded stock diff (will be changed out semi soon)
• Exedy dual carbon clutch
• DSS aluminum drive-shaft
• ISIS short shifter

- other stuff

• Koyo radiator
• samco hoses
• flexlite dual fans
• New full harness
• AC is being put back in

-Interior:

• cusco roll cage (custom cage coming...when I have money again)
• Bride buckets
• takata harnesses
• NRG harness bar
• Momo Raptor knob
• shifter extension

-Exterior:

• AIT 50mm rear fenders
• AIT 30mm front fenders
• V-speed body kit (to be replaced with a gtr33 kit when I can).
• cheap eyelids
• Seibon limited edition gold carbon hood (a little flashy but it was a steal and its discontinued now)
• 6666 rocket bunny wing
• Password JDM tow hooks

- Wheels/brakes/suspension

• Cusco comp-S coilovers
• cusco rear strut bar
• GTR33 front and rear brakes
• 5 lug conversion
• K-sport hydro e-brake (looking to hook it up to the stock calipers welded at 45 a degree angle to my gtr33 ones as in a dual caliper setup)
• Work Eurolines

-stuff im still looking at buying/doing if I can afford it

• Full custom gauge set for pretty much every piece of the motor (I'm only holding off on that cuz I can see it from my laptop/ECU anyway but I'd like it to be more accessible when driving eventually)
• OS gikken racing transmission gears
• DSS stage 5 axles
• replace all A-arms, pillars, rods, and all other suspension components
• a good limited slip (no particular brand yet decided)
• custom oil catch can/overflow tank
• chase bay interior brake relocation kit
• chase bay brake booster eliminator
• a nice custom cage
• ultra racing chassis braces (preferably all of them in preparation for the next step on my car which I will not reveal as I don't want this idea stolen. I can however safely say it may be the first, and definitely will be one of the few s14s in the world to have it. keep your guesses to yourself...I wont answer yes or no to any of them. I assume someone may be smart enough to figure out what it is just dont say it).
• oh and the RHD conversion...

I'm probably forgetting some stuff but I'll add as I remember, put up pictures and complete the build.

here are some pics, I'll keep adding em as I go down to G-dimension and take more pics...I know that's generally what people actually care to see.

the car before I put it in the shop this time around


my old motor


here is a pic of it sitting at G-dimension (don't mind the integra...it wasn't being tuned, James just got a good deal on it then resold it).


Rear of it at G-dimension


whats left of the old harness (we are putting in a new one)


Took off the front to put on the wide fenders and new front end


front wide fenders done


tons of parts sitting in the trunk yet to be installed (AC, 5 lug, subframe bushings, ethanol kit, brakes, window motor & master switch...I know that's random but the ds window didn't work so I figured I'd fix it now).


my interior as it stands so far (the cage is just in there...not bolted yet)


another interior pic



Since a large portion of the pictures are at G-Dimension, and most all of them will be from now on I figured I might as well explain a few of the other cars being tuned along side mine. Most if not all these swaps have been done at G-dimension itself. The Red S14 is an RB25 swap and is being outfitted with a GTX3076 turbo setup. There is a black S14 behind mine which is getting a similar build to mine but scaled back (without the VVL conversion) and they will be running a GTX3576. The miata behind my car is currently one of the fastest miata in its class (some form of road racing...dont know exactly which class, probably unlimited RWD) and is running a GTX28...76? and a very sexy V-mount setup (along with tons of other mods). The Datsun off in the corner got a stock redtop SR20det with a top mount turbo (I think a GT28) and a few other small goodies. Not in the picture but its around the shop, a very crazy looking purple wide-body s14 kouki got an RB26DETT swapped in. Also not pictured is a black LanEvo XI, FULLY, and I mean FULLY built...the guy who owns it travels a ton so its kinda at a stand-still...plus it needs an AWD dyno but its a beast. And lastly, way in the back in Silver is a 280Z also running an RB26DET (converted to single turbo) running a GTX3582R, the same that will be in my build. My build isnt really starting till the 2 Datsuns are finished, which should be some time next week (its also when the motor comes back from the machine shop)...but the other cars will be around.

well I think thats about what I have for now... that took forever to write... I'll update every time I go down to G-dimension, and I'll answer all posts probably 2-4 times a day...

[Big Zee]

the spoiler...remove it


please.

[second_chanceS14]

Originally Posted by Big Zee

the spoiler...remove it


please.

i agree, pls take that shit off... your car will thank you

[Yellow4g63]

Take that cage out before you hurt yourself. If you hit your head on it without the helmet it's not going to be pretty. Get aftermarket valve springs for the VVL head and run the stock cams.

[leung]

Looks like a high end build, why cheap out by getting a circuit sports FPR? I'd get either the greddy, arc, or tomei oil pan. Moroso is good too. I doubt the intercooler you have now will be able to handle the amount of power youre looking to get, esp if you think its an ebay one. And lastly id go with an LSD instead of the welded diff. Just my 2c. But good luck with the build!

[blackdragon328]

lol, I love the spoiler thing...I've had people who absolutely hate it, and people who absolutely love it. I've had debates over that spoiler for ages. but no worries, either way its coming off for the Origin wing, which will look waaay better on this build.

thank you for bringing the cage issue up...I do know it but I need a cage (actually a better one then this, for chassis bracing). I'm going to try to make it slightly better by putting good padding in those places, and im also running low seat rails so I dont THINK I would hit if I crashed but yes...I can potentially hurt myself in a crash if I hit my head on it (even with padding).
Aftermarket valve springs for the VVL?? I had NOT though of that... I do know James did not want to change the cams but I have not asked about the valve springs...any thoughts on the best company for em? Imma start to research it and see what I find.

I've been trying for a high end build yes... For the circuit sport FPR, its actually contracted out to a name brand company and then re-badged (I'll ask my mechanic who the name brand is), he's used em on every mid-high end build he has done, and they work perfectly.
Moroso, that was the oil pan, thanks I couldn't remember.
I TOTALLY agree with the intercooler...I'm curious if it'll make it but I really doubt it. I'm assuming its either going to fail, or going to be too restrictive. I'mma have to go over that with James (owner of G-dimensions) to see if he has ideas on a good intercooler that can withstand that kind of power.
and yes...I want an LSD but its just not the highest thing on my list...I need to save money for potential problems first (like the intercooler).

thanks guys

[josephin510]

Don't use colored loom again. Put that whale tail(haven't used that term in awhile) in a guillotine. Nice build so far keep the updates coming.

[blackdragon328]

Colored loom? you mean the blue crap on the wiring harness? if that's what you're referring to yea that stuff is garbage...that was the last owner's doing. we are actually going to tuck the harness to make the engine bay have a slightly more show like appearance.

[Imarvin240]

agree with what was said above, definitly do a new/stronger valve train setup and maybe try to pick up some P12 cams or go with kelford cams.

[jr_ss]

Invest in a real camera, not your cell phone and lose the wheels... Otherwise, keep it coming.

SuperTech valve train for the head... If you're on a budget, P11 cams will be fine, I'm using them in mine to see what power levels they can support. I'll switch out with Kelfords at a later date..

Good luck...

[blackdragon328]

I did some research and I agree with the valve train. It CAN be done on a stock valve train but would benefit greatly from a much stronger setup and would avoid a possible problem later on. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. The cams on the other hand are going to be expensive and I still need to research. Does anyone have any research done on which cams (or degrees) to run for which power-band?

JR SS: you have a VVL setup? how do you like it? any feedback or potential problems I could benefit from knowing. or just general thoughts on the swap...

also we went with carrillo rods instead of the normal eagle rods because if I understood correctly, the eagle rods cannot support over 500whp. This was Jame's decision (and I trust him so I dont have a problem with it) but I, however, have never used Carrillo products and would love feedback from someone who knows more about them.

Oh, and sorry bout those heinous pictures... they were taken from an ipod and good Lord they suck when they are bigger. I have a camera at home that I shall bring down with me from now on (or use my camera phone...first 2 pics are from there and are much nicer).

thanks for the help

[Imarvin240]

i went with P12 cams on my setup, they are great for mid to high range. you can check out my build thread to see how my setup is if you want.

[blackdragon328]

Imarvin: thanks I will check out your thread.
-OMG!! I just checked your thread and that's....well that's a really sick build. I hope I can get something similar, although I don't think I have quite the cash that you do.
If I can ask you a few questions,
-what degrees are you running on the P12s?
-I also noticed that you were running cam gears, which ones and any particular reason for that?
-I'm intrigued by the external water pump, was it really worth it?
-I'm also interested in the intercooler...love the air to water and I think my intercooler is gonna need changing anyway...was that pricey and is it worth the extra weight/amount of time needed to set it up.

thanks




and another question to the general audience (ima research this as well but if someone knows or has an opinion I'd love to hear it)

do I get Tomei or Supertech valve springs? both are good companies, but since I have not done a VVL swap before I do not know if one is better then the other

[Yellow4g63]

Just get the supertechs. they have 2 different ones get the 100lbs and you will be fine. You don't need to change your retainers either just rock the factory ones (I beat the piss out of my NA VE with those springs to 9000-9400rpms). Also not sure about the eagles not holding 500whp. I saw a local back in the day do 700awhp in his DSM with them. Why don't u just get the BC I beam rods? unless your going for a 1200whp VVL monster. Mazworxs has a good prices on valve springs and the VVL solenoid relocation block your going to need.

[blackdragon328]

okay so to answer each of those
Found some supertechs but I need to figure out some specs for em (coil bind, inner/outer spring OD/ID, net lift...etc etc) I'll have to ask James but yall are more then welcome to give me suggestions of course.

I was steered away from the eagle rods by James and then I spoke with eagle and they also recommended that I go with something beefier then their setup if I was putting over 500whp on my build (they said 500whp was the limit for those rods). The carrillos was Jame's choice...I am going to be speaking with them monday to ask about their rods.

Yes I am getting the VVL solenoid relocation setup from mazworx (along with the rest of the setup. I'mma look at the mazworx valve springs, thanx for the idea.

[blackdragon328]

hmmm...unique opportunity. I have a chance to buy some SR16VE N1 cams from kelford
for $450 (mounted then taken out of the motor, never run) which is quite a bit cheaper then what I have found so far...I'm thinking of doing that with the mazworx springs/retainer combo.

specs on cams:

Intake:
low: 220
high 288

exhaust:
low: 244
high 288

what do y'all think?

edit: actually it looks like what I am going to be adding is the following first. THEN ill go for the cams if I have cash left over.

Mazworx springs
Supertech valve guides
supertech valve seals
supertech 2mm over valves
that comes out to $970.55 as it is.... not sure if I'll have enough for the cams but ill grab em if I do.(comes out to 1420.85 with cams).

[Imarvin240]

-the timing gears are greddy and I got them just to help make sure timing is perfect.
-the external water pump setup was definitly needed for my application (in my opinion). even when the car is off, i can keep the coolant flowing through the engine and radiator so that i can cool it down a bit better. It can flow more coolant then the oem pump can flow. Also, it comes with a pump/fan controller which allows for speed setting with a built in thermastat (can set to change with the temp. of engine) and it can go into basically "overdrive" and push the coolant much faster if it starts to overheat. It costs a bit, but totally worth it since its protecting a big investment.
-the intercooler setup, I went with it because i can get the air temp. down around/below ambient temp. by using the ice box and the intercooler is alot less restrictive then an air to air design (meaning alot more potential power)

[ashtonroche]

Looks decent,

Some suggestions on the motor and i currently have and building up a fwd SR20VE-T using n1 cams as well. Thing about those cams is there is 74* of overlap. They are a very smooth cam and you can run them on stock vvl springs and retainers to 9k in the all motor world but i definitely suggest upgrade springs and retainers for turbo apps. Also leave the stock valvetrain in there. No need for upgraded valves. Unless you want to spend a crapload of time reshimming the valve lash. The vvl is not like the det's. They have solid rockers on a fixed shaft with hydraulic valve lash adjustment like the DET's have. So if you change valves and have valve angles done and so on your gonna run into having to reshim the valve lash and its a PITA if you dont know what your doing. So my suggestion is save the money, keep the stock valves and put in some supertech springs and retainers and be done. Make sure you put every shim back exactly where it came from as well when you dissasemble it. If its too late and they have been mixed up, your gonna have to check valve clearances when you put it back together and probably gonna have to reshim clearances anyways.

With that being said, You need to make sure you choose your turbine housing wisely, The n1's love a large turbine housing and since your using an open scroll manifold Id recommend you at least use the .82 t3 turbine housing, if your using a T4 open manifold id suggest the .81 T4. This will help keep backpressure down low with the high overlap cams. Ditch the cam gears and put stock gears on them and run them straight up. You dont need them.

Second thing, ditch the old style ARP headstuds and go with a set of Mazworx ARP2000 material headstuds. They are properly designed to bottom out in the block unlike the old normal ARP's that dont even use half the available threads in the block and dont bottom out like they should. People have been having problems with head lift with the old arps at as little as 400whp, pulling threads out of the block when trying to remove them because they pulled the threads during the head lift and much much more issues with them such as heavy block distortion because the studs put the load at the top portion of the block instead of the entire head bolt hole and threads.

The mazworx studs are slightly more expensive than the old arps at $200 for the set but well worth the cost, they are stronger and youll never have to worry about your head going anywhere especially with the Cosworth headgasket. Good choice btw, the Cosworth gasket is an amazing piece for the price and i used it on my last setup to 650whp and not a sign of head lift or gasket failure even when i had some heavy detonation due to a fuel regulator issues.

Other than that, the project looks good. Be sure to use SR20VE specific pistons in your build from CP, they have valve notches to allow great p2v clearance. If you used the normal det pistons especially with n1 cams, first time you hit vvl you can kiss your valves goodbye. You can get away with it with the stock ve cams but not on n1's. The Ve specific pistons are a tad more at 509 shipped on ebay but be sure to use them.

Ill keep a watch on the thread to see how its coming along. Looks like a fun build.

[Yellow4g63]

The bigger valves is a good idea to increase flow of the head. Since the stock VE valves are smaller than the DE for N/A to promote velocity. Since it is just the exhaust valves that are smaller you prob don't even need to bother unless your chasing huge hp numbers.

[blackdragon328]

-thanks Imarvin240, not sure bout the intercooler setup yet, its a little costly and very easy to add on later but its true that from the numbers i've been looking at it does have much better potential for a high power setup.
-The external water pump I'mma try for. its not TOO expensive (relative to my build...) and it is indeed protecting a huge investment. I'mma talk to James and see if I can get him on board for that one. I'm going to get it in aluminum though...I like that look better.

-Thanks Ashtonroche, thats some good feedback and some good ideas. I didn't know I would have to re-shim everything (I did it on my last head with Tomei solid lifters...its a huge PITA), I'mma have to ask my mechanic if its worth it or not... I think he sent the entire head to be cleaned up, ported, polished, re-decked etc...so we may have to do it anyway. If we have to do, I'll do the valves, if we dont...I dont know if I really wanna deal with it yet, I might do it next time I pull the head.
-The turbo is a GTX3582R, so we are indeed doing the .82 T3 housing for that reason.
-ARP studs... Thank you, I'm REALLY glad you mentioned that, I had no idea of this issue...I'm going to ask to switch right away and pray that he hasnt ordered em yet. I'mma run the mazworx ones as you suggested.
-I'll ask about the VVL specific pistons but this is far from Jame's first VVL build...I'll remind him just in case but I would be very surprised if he made such an amateur mistake.

yellow4g63, Interesting to know. I'mma see, if I can, it all depends on whether we decide to re-shim or not cuz shimming is a huge pain so if we dont have to I might avoid it this time around and do it next time the head comes off.

thanks guys, keep giving me feedback, I'm continuously doing research on this build and y'all are helping me tons with each comment left.
I'll have some new pics of my parts parts, and hopefully the body kit on the car Tuesday (with a decent camera this time).

[Yellow4g63]

Did G-dimensions move? I haven't been to his shop since 07 or 08 I think.

[ashtonroche]

As for the Eagle rods, Eagle rods with arp2000 bolts which are standard will hole well over 500whp without any issues. There is a guy on the sr20 forum that didnt even bend his eagle rods till over 800whp. Still didnt break just bent. Ive had eagle rods in my other motor for 15k miles now at no less than 450whp, 550whp on race gas on weekends and at the track, then went to the t67 and was putting out roughly 650whp on 35 lbs and the rods, bearings, and cp pistons still look great. Eagles can do 500whp all day long man. I was reving my last setup to 8700 as well on the DE head.

Anyways yeah definitely need to make sure hes using VE specific pistons. If he used det pistons on his last vvl setups but used stock cams he would be fine but if you went with any larger of a cam whether it be, sr16's, sr16n1's,20v, or VET cams you can kiss the valves goodbye like i said. Its already been proven.

Other than that, looking good man. Cant wait to see an update.

[blackdragon328]

Yellow4g63: yes they moved, but not very far. if you remember their old location coming from fulerton, instead of taking a right at the stop sign, keep going straight and its the second driveway on the right (its a really steep driveway) dont remember the exact number its something like 9094? 90940? 9049? rowland st....

Ashtonroche: interesting to know for the eagle rods...I'm a little hesitant since the rep at eagle that I talked to also mentioned a 500whp limit (or at least he said he "couldn't guarantee" anything past 500whp). That doesnt mean they cant go past that (the proof is there since ur running well past that with no problems) but it makes me hesitate. I'mma call Carrillo tomorrow and see what kind of answers I can get out of em and also look into pro VVL builds like the SPEC formula D setup (which just came through G-dimension a few weeks ago for a new ECU tune) and see what they are running.
I'll also make VERY sure to double check that James is using VE pistons for my build cuz I will most certainly be getting more aggressive cams in the near future and I'd prefer to avoid bending valves.

[ashtonroche]

Yeah again, trying to save you some money. If you plan to go quite a bit higher than 500whp then the carrillo I beams might not be a bad idea. Dont bother with the Carillo H-beams as they are no stronger than the Eagle H beams being they are the same exact design, same material, the only thing you can get for the Carrillo rods is stronger rod bolts which help handle higher rpms but if you dont plan on reving any higher than 8500-9k then who cares. If your gonna upgrade over the H beams go with the Carrillo I beams or Manley Turbo Tuff I-beams (a little cheaper but equally as good). There are many honda guys using the Manley Turbo Tuff I beams to over 1000whp without issues and at about 675 bucks shipped for a set, cant go wrong. The carrillos are about another 150 bucks more or so.

Just pointing out some more options for ya.

[Imarvin240]

i had Manley Turbo Tuff I-beams in my last sr build, great rods. yeah, no reason to spend money on the liquid to air intercooler setup if you don't really need it. i really would recommend adjustable cam gears though.

[blackdragon328]

ashtonroche: Thanks, we are indeed going with I-beams and I am indeed looking to go for a slightly higher redline if I can, something like...10-12k ( 12k is optimistic...well see). Also, I'mma ask but James may have already ordered em...the build is supposed to be under way by Tuesday. If not I will mention the Manley rods and see what I can do. I called Carrillo today (only managed to speak to some low level rep...) but, it seems like the I-beams are the better setup...you are correct, the H-beams are EXACTLY the same.

Imarvin240: I want the ATW intercooler but it will come later since its something that I can easily install later without having much work to do.
Cam gears... I have no research done on this area AT ALL, and those are not quite as easy to put in later so yes, I will need to look into this area. Any specific reason why you think they are so needed? You ran Greddys correct?

[Imarvin240]

well you don't need greddy, i have run hks, tomei, and Jim wolf tuning in some of my other engines. they arent to expensive and they allow you to get timing damn near perfect which on a built engine (any engine really) is very important and shouldnt be over looked. oem cam gears can't go as precise as adjustable can gears. plus, if timing is off, its very easy to adjust.

[Yellow4g63]

Originally Posted by blackdragon328

ashtonroche: Thanks, we are indeed going with I-beams and I am indeed looking to go for a slightly higher redline if I can, something like...10-12k ( 12k is optimistic...well see).

Slow down tiger. You won't need to rev that high lol 9k will prob be the highest you will rev .10k-12k = Dry sump oil setup, leave that for the race cars.

[jr_ss]

You won't be seeing 10-12k rpms that's for sure. You'd need a huge turbo, Hell Mazworx rev's to 12-13k I believe and they have a jet engine for a turbo and custom valve train.

Black, I do have a VVL setup, however it is not running yet. You can check out my build thread here though if you'd like...

SR20VET build up...

[ashtonroche]

Yeah your not gonna need to rev to 12k, lol.

Youd be fine to 9k and that would give you a pretty solid powerband.

Im reving my VE-T to 10k but if youve seen the size turbo im using youll know why, lol. Plus im using the stiffer Supertech Springs as well. Still on stock valves, mild port work and port matching. Large T4 divided turbine housing on a non divided manifold. I plan to give myself a powerband from roughly 6800 to 10k. Its a drag car so yeah, works perfectly.