the wire tuck pic thread

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by PerilousActs

That does look very good. Also looks super easy to trouble shoot as you mentioned. See, milspec DR25 covered harnesses aren't always the best, people! Do what works for your needs instead of following a fads...especially with something that could cost you as much as a full rewire.

You act like it's impossible to troubleshoot a harness unless it has split loom. I've been looming harnesses in flame-retardant mesh loom (not split) and DR25 (and similar) full-coverage looms for years and never had to cut the loom open in the middle of a run to troubleshoot. This includes Formula D cars that like to crash into stuff, and each other.

If there's a problem from one end to the other, do a pin-to-pin on the connectors, like any harness. No need to go hacking up your loom.

Split loom is economical and doesn't punish lack of foresight and lazyness (or inexperience) like full-coverage loom. When done right, like George did, with correct diameters and a couple inches of adhesive heat shrink over each end so it doesn't come apart, it can almost be as effective as full-coverage - but never better.

[29psiHybrid]

New home for my S14's fuse box...

[killer240]

where do you guys relocate your fuel filter?
i know i can hide it somewhere but im just curious.

[Matej]

Originally Posted by killer240

where do you guys relocate your fuel filter?
i know i can hide it somewhere but im just curious.

Mine is attached to the back of the intake manifold.

[29psiHybrid]

Originally Posted by killer240

where do you guys relocate your fuel filter?
i know i can hide it somewhere but im just curious.

On my old S13 I put it back by the tank...

[PerilousActs]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

You act like it's impossible to troubleshoot a harness unless it has split loom. I've been looming harnesses in flame-retardant mesh loom (not split) and DR25 (and similar) full-coverage looms for years and never had to cut the loom open in the middle of a run to troubleshoot. This includes Formula D cars that like to crash into stuff, and each other.

If there's a problem from one end to the other, do a pin-to-pin on the connectors, like any harness. No need to go hacking up your loom.

Split loom is economical and doesn't punish lack of foresight and lazyness (or inexperience) like full-coverage loom. When done right, like George did, with correct diameters and a couple inches of adhesive heat shrink over each end so it doesn't come apart, it can almost be as effective as full-coverage - but never better.

You are correct. What I stated came off a little bit harsh (after rereading it now). My comment was more referring the the inexperienced person that knows little about wiring wanting to attempt a milspec setup because they see them online, then having problems with it after getting everything buttoned up. So many people have problems with basic wiring, yet want to tackle something like a full harness with high dollar milspec components. My comment was more in reference to wire tucking in general (not specifically the Nissan community), especially after reading some of the mega wire tuck threads on other forums.

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ Fo sho. I see lots of people getting over their heads with chassis harnesses or wire tucks.

They all come to me eventually

[S-Nation S13]

where do you guys relocate the driver side fuse/relay box ?? i no longer use usdm front so, most of the relays i dont need, whats the best option to relocating this box ?

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

where do you guys relocate the driver side fuse/relay box ?? i no longer use usdm front so, most of the relays i dont need, whats the best option to relocating this box ?

Typically I ditch it all together and replicate the functionality I need with new relays/relay holders. If you wanted to keep it, put it right next to wherever you put the fusebox.

[chiboy002]

Just wondering, what sleeves do you guys use for the wiring jobs (GSXRJJordan answer pls lol)

I wanna do my engine harness without the ugly ass tape

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

Just wondering, what sleeves do you guys use for the wiring jobs (GSXRJJordan answer pls lol)

I wanna do my engine harness without the ugly ass tape

There's TONS of different looms, spanning the dollar range from pretty cheap to insanely expensive. On the cheapest end is corrugated loom and electrical tape, which sucks on SO many levels, but is fairly cheap (<$50 total) and very easy to apply (nothing has to be disassembled).

For actual Mil-spec flame retardant loom, I'd say for just an engine harness it'd range from $200 in loom/heat shrink minimum (for all the different sizes you need) to almost $1k for Raychem DR25 using correct 2-, 3-, and 4-way heat shrinkable junctions. There's a reason that professional racing harnesses (WRC, Indy, SuperGT, and NASCAR are the ones I've actually seen and seen invoices for) cost about $20k for the car's entire wiring harness.

For a beginner I'd say that flame retardant polypropylene split-loom and electrical tape is a decent step up from a stock 20yr old harness. If you want to be legit, you'll need real loom (flame retardant expandable mesh loom would be the next cheapest) and adhesive heat shrink for the ends. Just like the PP split loom, you'll need a few different sizes (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" at least).

The trouble with "real" loom is that you have to de-pin (or cut) the connectors to get the loom and heat shrink over. This is what usually separates the "my buddy did my wire tuck for a 6pk of beer" guys from the "I paid a thousand dollars for this baller harness" guys. That and the fact that the "$1k guy" probably got brand new wire inside the loom, since it's not that much more work once the connectors are apart.

Here's a couple shots from a job I'm doing this week - full Mil-spec rewire on a 71 Datsun 510 with S14 SR20, GT2871, PowerFC, etc and full beef running gear. Car's a beast.

The loom/heat shrink table. Approx $800 in materials, not to mention the 200ft spool of multi-conductor Mil-spec shielded wire - the rest of the wire spools are on the floor. I won't use all of his (hopefully lol).


Two bulkhead connectors, one for the upper and lower engine harnesses, one for the front chassis harness (headlights, blinkers, fan, etc) both with waterproof boots on the strain reliefs - these are the same connectors I use in my competition cars (Formula D etc) and now have DIY kits for.


The two halves of the engine harness (minus coil pack harness, that's sitting separate), ready for the last loom and then some connector love




I'll post finished photos after I get the rest of my wire in Monday.

[Zach-sr]

I really like how you loomed the wires coming out of the ECU...

[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Typically I ditch it all together and replicate the functionality I need with new relays/relay holders. If you wanted to keep it, put it right next to wherever you put the fusebox.

so technically i dont need that box, so if i were to just cut out the box in general, ill be good yes? lol i dont wanna tuck the wires leading to it, if i no longer utilize its relays.

[richardhouck]

So far...


Whats this all for...

[mrchomponthis]

just curious are the wires at the ecu mil-spec?

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

There's TONS of different looms, spanning the dollar range from pretty cheap to insanely expensive. On the cheapest end is corrugated loom and electrical tape, which sucks on SO many levels, but is fairly cheap (<$50 total) and very easy to apply (nothing has to be disassembled).

For actual Mil-spec flame retardant loom, I'd say for just an engine harness it'd range from $200 in loom/heat shrink minimum (for all the different sizes you need) to almost $1k for Raychem DR25 using correct 2-, 3-, and 4-way heat shrinkable junctions. There's a reason that professional racing harnesses (WRC, Indy, SuperGT, and NASCAR are the ones I've actually seen and seen invoices for) cost about $20k for the car's entire wiring harness.

For a beginner I'd say that flame retardant polypropylene split-loom and electrical tape is a decent step up from a stock 20yr old harness. If you want to be legit, you'll need real loom (flame retardant expandable mesh loom would be the next cheapest) and adhesive heat shrink for the ends. Just like the PP split loom, you'll need a few different sizes (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" at least).

The trouble with "real" loom is that you have to de-pin (or cut) the connectors to get the loom and heat shrink over. This is what usually separates the "my buddy did my wire tuck for a 6pk of beer" guys from the "I paid a thousand dollars for this baller harness" guys. That and the fact that the "$1k guy" probably got brand new wire inside the loom, since it's not that much more work once the connectors are apart.

Here's a couple shots from a job I'm doing this week - full Mil-spec rewire on a 71 Datsun 510 with S14 SR20, GT2871, PowerFC, etc and full beef running gear. Car's a beast.

The loom/heat shrink table. Approx $800 in materials, not to mention the 200ft spool of multi-conductor Mil-spec shielded wire - the rest of the wire spools are on the floor. I won't use all of his (hopefully lol).


Two bulkhead connectors, one for the upper and lower engine harnesses, one for the front chassis harness (headlights, blinkers, fan, etc) both with waterproof boots on the strain reliefs - these are the same connectors I use in my competition cars (Formula D etc) and now have DIY kits for.


The two halves of the engine harness (minus coil pack harness, that's sitting separate), ready for the last loom and then some connector love




I'll post finished photos after I get the rest of my wire in Monday.

[jacobs13]

jeff jordan amazes me with wires, this shit gives me such a headache but I want to learn it so badly, I may attemp to do my harness when I put my sr back in.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by mrchomponthis

just curious are the wires at the ecu mil-spec?

On this setup (not a competition car) I kept the OEM wires from the ECU to the interior side of the bulkhead connector. They're still loomed and tucked up along the firewall under carpet/etc.

On a competition car like my FD/Time Attack guys where the interior harness is exposed and subject to some wear, I will use new pins and the same Mil-spec wire as the engine bay wiring.

Originally Posted by jacobs13

jeff jordan amazes me with wires, this shit gives me such a headache but I want to learn it so badly, I may attemp to do my harness when I put my sr back in.

Thanks Jacob! If you guys need help or advice I'm usually available on here and on Facebook for quick questions/etc.

[richardhouck]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

On this setup (not a competition car) I kept the OEM wires from the ECU to the interior side of the bulkhead connector. They're still loomed and tucked up along the firewall under carpet/etc.

On a competition car like my FD/Time Attack guys where the interior harness is exposed and subject to some wear, I will use new pins and the same Mil-spec wire as the engine bay wiring.



Thanks Jacob! If you guys need help or advice I'm usually available on here and on Facebook for quick questions/etc.

Thanks for the help about the ac fan plugs.

[ZilviaKid]

where does one learn this skill?

this summer i learned how much i suck at wiring things when fucking with my ruckus. lol

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by ZilviaKid

where does one learn this skill?

this summer i learned how much i suck at wiring things when fucking with my ruckus. lol

Just like any other skill:
1) School
2) Apprenticeships with local professionals
...
...
...
54) Military

I've done all 3.

[SupaDoopa]

What a wire tuck from the infamous JJordan run for an S13 blacktop? Your website isn't too helpful.

[R33E8]

If you guys want to find more information on wire tucking, checkout honda-tech.. Here is just one example of a wire tucking thread over there:

♠ Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion ♠ - Honda-Tech

So much info of there..

If anyone wants some mil-spec wire, heatshrink, or sleeving let me know, I have a lot ...

[mrchomponthis]

Does anyone know where to get the Ecu pins and the pins for the plugs?

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

There's TONS of different looms, spanning the dollar range from pretty cheap to insanely expensive. On the cheapest end is corrugated loom and electrical tape, which sucks on SO many levels, but is fairly cheap (<$50 total) and very easy to apply (nothing has to be disassembled).

For actual Mil-spec flame retardant loom, I'd say for just an engine harness it'd range from $200 in loom/heat shrink minimum (for all the different sizes you need) to almost $1k for Raychem DR25 using correct 2-, 3-, and 4-way heat shrinkable junctions. There's a reason that professional racing harnesses (WRC, Indy, SuperGT, and NASCAR are the ones I've actually seen and seen invoices for) cost about $20k for the car's entire wiring harness.

For a beginner I'd say that flame retardant polypropylene split-loom and electrical tape is a decent step up from a stock 20yr old harness. If you want to be legit, you'll need real loom (flame retardant expandable mesh loom would be the next cheapest) and adhesive heat shrink for the ends. Just like the PP split loom, you'll need a few different sizes (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" at least).

The trouble with "real" loom is that you have to de-pin (or cut) the connectors to get the loom and heat shrink over. This is what usually separates the "my buddy did my wire tuck for a 6pk of beer" guys from the "I paid a thousand dollars for this baller harness" guys. That and the fact that the "$1k guy" probably got brand new wire inside the loom, since it's not that much more work once the connectors are apart.

Here's a couple shots from a job I'm doing this week - full Mil-spec rewire on a 71 Datsun 510 with S14 SR20, GT2871, PowerFC, etc and full beef running gear. Car's a beast.

The loom/heat shrink table. Approx $800 in materials, not to mention the 200ft spool of multi-conductor Mil-spec shielded wire - the rest of the wire spools are on the floor. I won't use all of his (hopefully lol).

Two bulkhead connectors, one for the upper and lower engine harnesses, one for the front chassis harness (headlights, blinkers, fan, etc) both with waterproof boots on the strain reliefs - these are the same connectors I use in my competition cars (Formula D etc) and now have DIY kits for.
The two halves of the engine harness (minus coil pack harness, that's sitting separate), ready for the last loom and then some connector love
I'll post finished photos after I get the rest of my wire in Monday.

So... what exactly should i look for? I plan on removing the plugs, pulling them through the firewall, and routing them through the engine bay for my s13. Currently they're wrapped in electrical tape which sucks cause it makes it so stiff and thick, but i don't wanna shell out some 200$ for a spool that i'll only use on a small amount of wiring that will probably go unaffected.

I just want something that would provide decent protections, flame retardant isn't very important to me cause if my car catches fire i have bigger issues to worry about than wiring, and some heat resistance from it being close to the headers/ downpipe.

[SuicidnS13]

Damn I love the anal in this thread!!! Reminds me of the honda camp and immaculate bays...

[ignited]

Originally Posted by AeroDesigns

Chase Bays is done with their KA Harness!

Post em up chase!!

I cannot find this harness for sale? Is it in fact for sale for the KA?

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by SupaDoopa

What a wire tuck from the infamous JJordan run for an S13 blacktop? Your website isn't too helpful.

Sorry about the website being incomplete, I switched it over from a 'blog'-style site to a real site before SEMA and just haven't had time to add all the content. Hopefully over the next two weeks I'll get a few free nights.

Shoot me a PM with specifics of what you'd like done and I'll give you some estimates. Price varies widely based on doing engine harness and/or chassis harness, what materials, and what connectors (if any).

Originally Posted by R33E8

If you guys want to find more information on wire tucking, checkout honda-tech.. Here is just one example of a wire tucking thread over there:

♠ Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion ♠ - Honda-Tech

So much info of there..

If anyone wants some mil-spec wire, heatshrink, or sleeving let me know, I have a lot ...

I'm curious what you have, and if you can come close to the pricing I've got - I'm always looking for more. Shoot me a PM with spec and quantities please.

Originally Posted by mrchomponthis

Does anyone know where to get the Ecu pins and the pins for the plugs?

I have been looking on/off for pins that work on all the different ECU plugs as well as the ECU plugs themselves, but usually timeframe keeps me using "core"/old plugs/pins. For what it's worth, I've never seen a wire pull out of the OEM crimp, so I consider using a 3/4" pigtail from the old wire/pin with heat shrink all the way up to the pin should be equivalent electrically and mechanically.

Originally Posted by chiboy002

So... what exactly should i look for? I plan on removing the plugs, pulling them through the firewall, and routing them through the engine bay for my s13. Currently they're wrapped in electrical tape which sucks cause it makes it so stiff and thick, but i don't wanna shell out some 200$ for a spool that i'll only use on a small amount of wiring that will probably go unaffected.

I just want something that would provide decent protections, flame retardant isn't very important to me cause if my car catches fire i have bigger issues to worry about than wiring, and some heat resistance from it being close to the headers/ downpipe.

Flame retardant = heat resistant, same shit. When you heat up the insulation, it'll gel and burst into flame at some point. That's the melting point, and the higher the better.

If you can't spend $200, just do the job with OEM wire. Seriously, it gets insanely expensive to do it right, especially if you're not buying in quantity.

Originally Posted by SuicidnS13

Damn I love the anal in this thread!!! Reminds me of the honda camp and immaculate bays...

My big problem with the 'show' Hondas is that none of them are used in actual competition. I didn't get into wiring to go show off to a bunch of other dudes who trailer their $15k Hondas to a parking lot... I want to win races!

All the materials and techniques used on my harnesses are proven in competition, plain and simple. Look for my customers/racers to pop up everywhere next year, I should have some 15 pro teams using my goodies!

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Flame retardant = heat resistant, same shit. When you heat up the insulation, it'll gel and burst into flame at some point. That's the melting point, and the higher the better.

If you can't spend $200, just do the job with OEM wire. Seriously, it gets insanely expensive to do it right, especially if you're not buying in quantity.

Well i plan on keeping the wiring in tact, i have a spare harness that i can cut up if i need to but i wanna try not to. I'll search around, cause yeah i prolly wont buy more than ~5 feet soooooooooo itll prolly cost a bunch

Thank you for your help

[SaNTi]

Originally Posted by PerilousActs

Cleaning *everything* extremely thoroughly. Then remove stuff you don't want/need.

That sounds easy enough... let me go start ripping shit out. brb.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

Well i plan on keeping the wiring in tact, i have a spare harness that i can cut up if i need to but i wanna try not to. I'll search around, cause yeah i prolly wont buy more than ~5 feet soooooooooo itll prolly cost a bunch

Thank you for your help

Oh, if you're talking about quantities like that let me know exactly what sizes you need and I'll cut it off my reel. I've sold a few 10ft runs of Mil-spec shielded wire/etc before for people re-doing their own harnesses.