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Old 05-13-2012, 11:13 AM   #91
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You need to learn how to launch the car. A 2.4 60ft is horrible, for every tenth you drop it, it is typically two tenths off your ET. So say you get it to a 2.0 you have a 13.0 car, give or take.

Those tires are huge too, 40 series sidewall would've looked much better.
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:08 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_ss View Post
You need to learn how to launch the car. A 2.4 60ft is horrible, for every tenth you drop it, it is typically two tenths off your ET. So say you get it to a 2.0 you have a 13.0 car, give or take.

Those tires are huge too, 40 series sidewall would've looked much better.
"Also my launches sucked which is mostly my fault for being new to it but my crappy clutch didn't help either"

"I'd suggest going 245/40 actually, 45 gives a bit too much sidewall IMO. The only reason I went with the 245/45 was because I found a great deal on ebay for them and what I wanted was backordered for a month or more. Originally I was gonna do 255/40/17 R-S3's all around."

Already been covered... but thanks. Perhaps you have some constructive criticism instead of just telling me my launches sucked? I already knew that. And just to give you an idea of how bad my clutch is; I went to an SCCA novice school and every single one of the five or so instructors that drove it stalled it multiple times.

There's an RPS Max 6-puck sitting on the floor behind me, waiting to go in; we'll see how I can launch with that eventually.
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:16 PM   #93
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Quote:
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Already been covered... but thanks. Perhaps you have some constructive criticism instead of just telling me my launches sucked? I already knew that.

There's an RPS Max 6-puck sitting on the floor behind me, waiting to go in; we'll see how I can launch with that eventually.
Instead of just "dumping" the clutch, hold your revs up around 4-5k rpms and slip it. Every car is different, you don't want to light your rear tires up, some spin is good, but not uncontrollable spin. You may have to feather the throttle to get it to hook, it's just one of those things that you need to learn with practice.

I loved my Max street full face. I ran it with a 3071r and 360rwhp. Held up great to drag abuse, make sure you break it in for atleast 500miles before getting crazy with it.
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:28 PM   #94
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Instead of just "dumping" the clutch, hold your revs up around 4-5k rpms and slip it. Every car is different, you don't want to light your rear tires up, some spin is good, but not uncontrollable spin. You may have to feather the throttle to get it to hook, it's just one of those things that you need to learn with practice.

I loved my Max street full face. I ran it with a 3071r and 360rwhp. Held up great to drag abuse, make sure you break it in for atleast 500miles before getting crazy with it.
I had my revs around 4k and tried to slip it but my clutch has some serious issues. There's literally only a few mm range that the clutch grabs in. I don't have a problem feathering it in that range (dailying on this clutch has gotten me used to that ) but when I take off, it's hard to not move my foot more than a mm or two under the acceleration and it winds up grabbing more than I want and leaving me spinning...

I admit that I need a lot of work (it was my first time after-all) but I also think the clutch is really playing a big part in it too.

Glad to hear you liked your RPS; they seem to be liked by most who have used them. I was originally going to go with the Max Street which is more than enough for me now but I'm not sure how far I want to take this build yet. So I thought I'd future proof it a bit and go for the Max 6-puck. I hope the engagement isn't too harsh and I regret it... Anything is better than what I have now tho!
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:04 PM   #95
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Lots of parts!

Hello again, time for another update. I finally have a week off to move everything over to my new shell and upgrade some things. I'll be picking up the new shell tomorrow and all of my parts aside from my pistons are already here. The pistons should be in Wednesday.

So here's a picture of all the new goodies!


New exhaust gasket/hangers, clevite bearings, stainless brake lines, throw out bearing and pilot bushing, rear/front main seals, two new valves to replace the two that some stupid machine shop ground too much, adjustable toe rods, poly engine/trans mounts, 400lph walbro fuel pump, 15/16 master cylinder (my 17/16th that I have currently is waaaay too easy to lock up), RPS Max 6-puck clutch, SPL solid subframe bushings, new oem freeze plugs, two random clamps, some shims for the two new valves and last but not least, Manley H-beam rods

What you don't see in the picture are the dozen cans of paint for my block/bay along with some POR-15 for the underside, ID1000cc injectors and top feed rail that I have yet to order and the pistons that are coming soon.

I went a bit extreme with the pistons... JE 10:1 compression with moly skirts and ceramic crowns. The extra compression ought to net me at least 5% more power across the whole powerband, giving me a large increase in area under the curve, not to mention it will spool the turbo faster. The ceramic is also going to put more heat back into combustion, burning the fuel more completely and hotter, netting me more power, mpg and, again, a faster spooling turbo. I'll be seeing how far I can push it on gas but plan on running E85 when all is said and done to really get the most from this setup. I believe the combination of the higher compression, ceramic coating and E85 will really work together well and produce not just an engine that makes lots of power but makes it all over the RPM range.

This is hopefully just the start. My dream for this engine is for it to be one of the most efficient and balanced sr20's around. I think the high compression and ceramic coated crowns are a great start but I'd love to have more obviously. Ideally I'll be going with a ported VE head down the road and ceramic coating the combustion chamber on that too. That along with an EFR6758 or GTX2867 ought to make what is just about the perfect engine in my mind. The only thing missing would be a 90mm overbore and another compression bump to 11:1.

EDIT: I just realized I forgot to update with my second autocross.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqnIGzdog4

I did MUCH better this time since I got my front wheels/tires/brakes on and took off the rear sway. The car was an unfinished mess last time with all seasons and busted brakes up front but good Kumho XS's and the altima rotor upgrade in the back. The car was actually enjoyable to drive this time, really balanced! Unfortunately I had some clearance issues with the front tires that caused some hopping as you can see. Overall I was very happy with both the car and my driving (for the most part)
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:10 PM   #96
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Mega update!

Got my new shell last week and I dedicated the week following to swap over as many parts as I could. Get ready for a crapload of pics...


Prepping the engine to be pulled...


Old, new, kouki tails, pedobear and yes, a Ducati Desmosedici RR (Not mine unfortunately)


Look what was chilling out in my oil... A valve shim! Must have been from a previous time because all my shims were intact.


Thanks for all your help Grandpa!


It was a pain in the ass to get rid of the rusty old battery tray but we did. This then got cut out to make room for IC piping.


All painted and front suspension is on! Really happy with the color.


Close up!


bye-bye


Mounted.


It hasn't been long since I last had the engine apart haha. Well, the head at least.


Starting to strip.


Off with your head!


A cigarette? What the hell is that doing in there?!?! Must have been in there since before I got it too, because nobody I know smokes.


Just the block remains.


Honed vs. not honed.


Clean, new clevite bearings.


Headlights, wheels, intercooler, wires, black brake/clutch lines and new master cylinder.


Got the body harness, dash and cluster on.


Aggressive.


It's starting to look like a drivable car...


Dropped both subframes and this is where it is currently.

What's left: The crank is at a shop being polished but when that gets back I'm headed home to PA for a weekend to put the engine back together, drop it in, paint the subframe, swap subframe parts (linkages/lsd), put the subframe in and drive it!
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Old 06-05-2012, 05:34 PM   #97
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Nice update, now get rid of those nasty stock subfame bushings.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:11 PM   #98
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Nice update, now get rid of those nasty stock subfame bushings.
Take a close look at the picture in the previous post.

SPL solid aluminum bushings
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:44 PM   #99
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Dam this is an impressive build thread bro! Keep up the good work!
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:33 PM   #100
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gage do work son!
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:03 PM   #101
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Dam this is an impressive build thread bro! Keep up the good work!
Thanks! There's still much planned for this car...

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gage do work son!
I think I did enough work this week lol. Maybe one day I'll have a 240 as nice as yours tho. I gotta join the dark side soon and go kouki.
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:16 PM   #102
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whats going back in the old shell? stock stuff?
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:52 PM   #103
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new shell fun!
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:19 AM   #104
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whats going back in the old shell? stock stuff?
It's probably best for both of us if I just scrap it at this point. Stock suspension will be going back into the old chassis and basically none of the interior will be left. I couldn't, in good morals, charge you anything for basically just a rusted out shell...

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new shell fun!
Would have been a lot more fun if it wasn't crammed into one week haha. Certainly was an experience I won't soon forget though.
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Old 06-07-2012, 05:15 PM   #105
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Check out what finally came today! Beautiful...



And I missed this picture the first time through. I just like the way the engine looks from this angle with the turbo and everything.

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Old 06-07-2012, 06:26 PM   #106
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Please get yourself a s14 SR water neck so you don't have to run that coolant line behind the head, other then that good progress keep it up!
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:44 PM   #107
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Please get yourself a s14 SR water neck so you don't have to run that coolant line behind the head, other then that good progress keep it up!
Yeah, that line is a pain in the ass to get to while the engine is in the bay. I never knew about the s14 difference... Thanks for the tip!
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:44 PM   #108
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Yeah, that line is a pain in the ass to get to while the engine is in the bay. I never knew about the s14 difference... Thanks for the tip!
No problem man!
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:15 PM   #109
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This thing is sick
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:04 PM   #110
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This thing is sick
Thanks!

Got my ID1000's and top feed rail recently too:

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Old 06-20-2012, 12:51 PM   #111
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Finally got the rest of my miscellaneous parts to finish and I'll be heading home this weekend. Updates coming soon!

And I decided I wanted some different pistons than my JE's...

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Old 06-20-2012, 12:55 PM   #112
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Finally got the rest of my miscellaneous parts to finish and I'll be heading home this weekend. Updates coming soon!

And I decided I wanted some different pistons than my JE's...

Specs?!
mssglength
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:34 PM   #113
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Ask Michael Schumacher... It's one of his old pistons
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:45 PM   #114
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Ask Michael Schumacher... It's one of his old pistons
Must be a new trend now.. you know putting F1 motor in our cars. lol
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:52 PM   #115
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Must be a new trend now.. you know putting F1 motor in our cars. lol

I just need to find three more pistons to squeeze in and... Boom! 18,000RPM!
Stock crank/rods/bore ought to work just fine for that right?
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:59 PM   #116
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I just need to find three more pistons to squeeze in and... Boom! 18,000RPM!
Stock crank/rods/bore ought to work just fine for that right?
Renault F1 Engine - YouTube

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Old 06-20-2012, 02:03 PM   #117
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Awww, you spoiled it for everyone. Now they know what mine is gonna sound like...
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:47 PM   #118
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Update Time

There's just too much to be said about what's been done so I thought I'd let the pictures do the talking. Feel free to ask questions tho.





























It's just about ready to start and break-in. Current things left to take care of are:

-Needs a better battery ground
-ECU is not getting power
-Headlights come on and up but won't go down (timer?)
-Put fenders/bumper back on
-Roll fenders
-Alignment
-Inspection

Last edited by LuckyX2; 06-28-2012 at 02:36 PM..
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:37 PM   #119
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very nice build man
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Old 07-18-2012, 11:11 AM   #120
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Thanks! It should be back in NY and ready to drive in a week or two, so more updates then probably.

I was delayed by issues running for a while and it turned out to be that I had a shitty knock-off FPR. I made sure to get another Tomei one but from a more reliable source and that fixed it right up.

Compression was 200psi across the board before break in (didn't check it after), it starts right up and runs nice and smooth. Now I just need to figure out the high idle issue that it always had. 1500rpms is not a satisfactory idle haha.

The IACV is at 0% according to my ECU and I have the cold idle screw in all the way but yet if I squeeze the hose providing air to the IACV, the idle drops. There's definitely some air getting in through the IACV that shouldn't be...
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