Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[dorkidori_s13]

does anyone know the part number or the USDM equivalent to the strut that was used on the JDM 180sx Kouki Hatch that came with the wing?

the reason i ask is my hatch struts are done and i have a wangan wing on my trunk. i need to find a strut that will easily handle the weight load and i know the OEM kouki wings are quite heavy!

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

Should I use zip ties on my z32 conversion brake lines to hold them in place? Thanks

No, use safety wire. It doesn't get affected by heat or wear as easily. The zip ties will wear and break after a month or two in some cases so wire is just a no brainer

[acslater9]

I have a stripped bolt that no longer has any "pattern" on them. Do any of you guys have any methods on taking this bolt out? I tired with pliers and vise grips but it just keeps slipping and does not have a good grip. Also the bolt is in a small area that my vise grip cannot fit in. by the way its the brake line bolt/screw thing.

[Fries]

Originally Posted by acslater9

I have a stripped bolt that no longer has any "pattern" on them. Do any of you guys have any methods on taking this bolt out? I tired with pliers and vise grips but it just keeps slipping and does not have a good grip. Also the bolt is in a small area that my vise grip cannot fit in. by the way its the brake line bolt/screw thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZP05y32aJw

Easy out son.

[acslater9]

Thanks for the video but its probably not going to work. Reason why it wont work is because its on the brake lines. The line will be in the way of me inserting the turbo socket. So it will be impossible to put that on.

[Nezahualcoyotl]

Couple questions.
My temp gauge is on max high when I turn the key to the on position. Even if the engine is cold. Just saw it yesterday. I've searched around but didn't find what I was looking for. I'll check to see if there are any codes. You guys have any ideas what it could be?

Also, I noticed some surface rust on the roof of the car, near the windshield. So I figured it's time for a some paint. Anyone know a good place to go in SoCal? 92704 area.

[vJilly]

alright so one of my friends gave me an old z31 turbo, i know its a t3 flange as all of them were. Im almost positive a its a 85-87 t3. with that being said i wanna turbo my ka. ive researched around so i know what manifold im gonna get but i keep reading about how the exhaust flange is different than most as in like a stock sr t25 is a 5 bolt and this is 6 but ive read they are mostly 7. is there any part i can get to make this easy or can somebody shine some light on this?

[Heytheremr2]

Anyone recommend a forum for g35 owners where they actually get good traffic? I don't want to join a forum that hardly ever gets any posts and the latest ones are practically years old.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Nezahualcoyotl

Couple questions.
My temp gauge is on max high when I turn the key to the on position. Even if the engine is cold. Just saw it yesterday. I've searched around but didn't find what I was looking for. I'll check to see if there are any codes. You guys have any ideas what it could be?

Could be a bad sendor. Unplug it on the engine and see what the gauge does.

Originally Posted by vJilly

alright so one of my friends gave me an old z31 turbo, i know its a t3 flange as all of them were. Im almost positive a its a 85-87 t3. with that being said i wanna turbo my ka. ive researched around so i know what manifold im gonna get but i keep reading about how the exhaust flange is different than most as in like a stock sr t25 is a 5 bolt and this is 6 but ive read they are mostly 7. is there any part i can get to make this easy or can somebody shine some light on this?

Don't buy that turbo, and do more research on the KA turbo path (ka-t.org, or hte faq's here). THe last thing you want to do is get some half beat old turbo and then hack around it. If you're on a budget you'd be better off just buying someone else's used setup.

Originally Posted by acslater9

Should I use zip ties on my z32 conversion brake lines to hold them in place? Thanks

As far as on the struts? That will be ok. You basically want to ensure they dn't get pinched.

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

On the subject of trucks....

What kind of oil (weight, and any special "old shit" additives, or anything) should I put in a ford 351C, in an 81 f150? (only got an alleged 78k on the ticker, but everything leaks - still, maybe not a "high mileage" engine)

Unless the truck was swapped, you have a Windsor, or a 400m in there. I didn't think they put the 400's in F150, so if you do have a cleveland, it was swapped.

[vJilly]

I got it for free.... so what then? and it has NO shaft play at all. even came with the elbow.

[robinsone]

There are 2 sensors, one goes to the cluster, the other to the ECU and adjusts idle. Replace them both, they're too cheap and too old to keep around.

[Gar9854]

fan wiring*

long story short I bought a 91 hatch with a mishimoto rad and fans already installed. the fans kicked on and off with what I thought was a thermostat switch until I turned the AC on not too long ago for the first time and to surprise the fans turned on and off with the ac. and they kick on when my coolant temp sensor is unplugged (long story)

The fans seem to be wired to a factory plug with a red wire w/ a white stripe and a black wire. now the fans don't come on at all and the ac no longer works, any idea what they/re wired to? Relay?

[Gar9854]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

does anyone know the part number or the USDM equivalent to the strut that was used on the JDM 180sx Kouki Hatch that came with the wing?

the reason i ask is my hatch struts are done and i have a wangan wing on my trunk. i need to find a strut that will easily handle the weight load and i know the OEM kouki wings are quite heavy!

unfortunately I work at O'reillys, tomorrow ill look at the compressed length and extended length and try to find one with a few extra numbers on the force rating or whatever you wanna call it. if possible shoot me a PM as a reminder

[codyace]

Originally Posted by vJilly

I got it for free.... so what then? and it has NO shaft play at all. even came with the elbow.

It's an old inefficient turbo that will cost too much to 'make work' than it would to go with a regular setup.

There I said it.

You're mind is made up, go ahead and use it, spend the cash to make it work, and then guy why on earth was I messing around with a 25 year old turbo.

[juhd]

can someone explain what lo-disk, standard disk, etc means for wheels? thanks

[codyace]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

can someone explain what lo-disk, standard disk, etc means for wheels? thanks

It involves concave/fitment
High disk = most fitment (in regard to calipers) least lip/dish
low disk = least fitment (in regard to calipers) most lip/dish

[troskinatior]

My hatch got hit right behind the door and the 1/4 caved in so I'm looking for a overfender that will cover it up. I found the origin type 2 and the 9k overs but I'm looking more for a 30mm. I realize when I open the door it will still be crushed in but I only care about the exterior. So does anyone know of any overs that will cover up my damage?

[e1_griego]

Never really messed with internal wastegates beyond the stock t25 gates, but now I have a 2871 with this gate: FRSPORT 448734-7 FRS Internal Wastegate Actuator+Bracket 12-14 psi Upgrade for GT28R

If I'm on it in 2nd making 12psi and then shift to 3rd, when it's back on boost in 3rd it will only go to 5psi or so, then slowly creep back to 12psi. I'm running a turbosmart mbc but it's backed all the way off. Wastegate has a boost-only reference, no vacuum. Seems like this is how it should be, though I'm wondering if vacuum source would fix this.

Bov is a synpase synchronic and seems to be working perfectly.

Guessing this is an internal gate problem?

[Punished]

The 2 L ports under the s13 throttle body, are they the coolant lines?

Leave them? Cap them?

[Gar9854]

Originally Posted by Punished

The 2 L ports under the s13 throttle body, are they the coolant lines?

Leave them? Cap them?

Yes they're coolant lines and I left mine open with no issues thus far

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Punished

The 2 L ports under the s13 throttle body, are they the coolant lines?

Leave them? Cap them?

They are for anti Icing. As long as you don't drive in freezing conditions a lot they are fine.

[Punished]

Thanks fellas! Just end wanted to be sure that's what they were as they didn't exist on my vac diagram.

[da_crew10]

QUESTION

I was in the process of changing out my FLCA bushings, and before I thought twice I took out the metal sleeve that you press the bushing into, I put the new bushings in and bolted it on, still haven't driven the car, but will this affect anything?

[chato de shamrock]

How long does it take to straighten a radiator core?

I understand it all depends on the damage, know how and tools you have available, but assuming it's a body shop stocked with all the tools needed and the damage is a bend on one corner no greater than 45° degrees pushed inward at the top corner of the core support? With careful pulling how fast can something like this be fixed by someone with the know how?

[aymaeid]

SIMPLE QUESTION

i purchased s14 tension rods( no brand name) over two years ago, opened the box last week (i know, im stupid) and realized the bolts are all missing! the stock tension rods have bolts mounted intio them so they cant be removed. anywhere i can purchase just the bolts? or should i just go to home depot and purchase bolts, washers and nuts?

Thanks to any replies.

[aymaeid]

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

How long does it take to straighten a radiator core?

I understand it all depends on the damage, know how and tools you have available, but assuming it's a body shop stocked with all the tools needed and the damage is a bend on one corner no greater than 45° degrees pushed inward at the top corner of the core support? With careful pulling how fast can something like this be fixed by someone with the know how?

would take me about an hour with someones help. maybe two at most.

edit: are you asking because you got quoted a rediculous amount of hours or out of curiosity?

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Nah man, what he is is saying is you have crappy coils. Don't waste money trying to upgrade them when the springs are not the real issue. Suck it up live with them the way they are while you save money for a good set like Stance, HKS, Tanabe, etc, shoot, I think Isis is even better than Raceland, dude Raceland is like the Big Lots of car parts. These are things we just do not buy. We suck it up with oem until we can save up for good stuff, not Raceland

Well i got the springs for 10 bucks from a friend so it cost me next to nothing. And it ended up fine, still no bounce. 10k front 7k rear, i wrote it weird on my last post. I've yet to have a problem with the racelands. They ride fine especially for the price.

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Never really messed with internal wastegates beyond the stock t25 gates, but now I have a 2871 with this gate: FRSPORT 448734-7 FRS Internal Wastegate Actuator+Bracket 12-14 psi Upgrade for GT28R

If I'm on it in 2nd making 12psi and then shift to 3rd, when it's back on boost in 3rd it will only go to 5psi or so, then slowly creep back to 12psi. I'm running a turbosmart mbc but it's backed all the way off. Wastegate has a boost-only reference, no vacuum. Seems like this is how it should be, though I'm wondering if vacuum source would fix this.

Bov is a synpase synchronic and seems to be working perfectly.

Guessing this is an internal gate problem?

Internal gates tend to creep open but not like you're saying. It should still hit 12 then maybe you can expect it to fall a little, but if it's only hitting 5 then creeping to 12 there's something wrong.

[chato de shamrock]

Originally Posted by aymaeid

would take me about an hour with someones help. maybe two at most.

edit: are you asking because you got quoted a rediculous amount of hours or out of curiosity?

I'm asking cause the body shop said it needs to get pulled back slowly and carefully to avoid snapping the metal if its pulled hard. I figured it wouldn't take any more then 5 days or a work week assuming they worked on it a bit at a time. I'm also asking cause since i was in a fender bender and had it's original (now very old) paint job, i decided to do a front conversion and paint it. Could have converted it myself but since they were going to remove bumper, fender, hood to work on core support I decided to get everything needed and have them put it on. They're taking their sweet F'ing time though. All in all i was estimating this take about 4 weeks and so far im looking at 3 months, one week and counting. Last 2 months theyve been supposedly painting it. Back on the week of Halloween i stopped by to see it primered. Been wanting to just get my car but i know I'll be assed getting charged possibly double by them for paint supplies and their time as well as a second time by which ever body shop i take to get the paint job finished. I'm wanting to get a better idea of how long fixing the core support would take. BTW, the example i gave of it beinh slightly bent was how my core support was. No fluid leaks or major damage other then the corner and a bent light bracket.

[Siq67Lark]

Hey guys I have a question about a steering issue. I installed coilovers and dropped my s14 pretty far but nothing too crazy and I've replaced all my suspension parts and even installed a bump steer kit from megan racing and got it aligned with -1.5 camber all around. After that I installed my new tires and wheels. It drives great up until I hit a bump or a drop when I'm on the freeway doing anything over 60. I had dealt with some crazy jerks before I had the bump steer kit installed (changing lanes without moving the wheel at 70 isn't very fun) and it's by no means that bad anymore, but I have lost all confidence in the car when I'm on the freeway. The only part on the suspension and steering I haven't replaced yet is my rack, but I assume that would make the issue noticeable at all speeds, not just sometimes. As I said it drives beautifully everywhere but the freeway. If anyone knows some things to try so I can fix this I'm all ears. Also before anyone asks I do not know my caster settings but my toe is 0. And yes I have searched this, but all I get is stuff about installing bump steer kits because I have no idea what else to call what is happening except "bump steer".