A Poor Man's Dream S13.

[koukis13]

Nice man! Keep that grind going. Harness and build looks great

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Soooo....whats the deal here??

Picked up another project because it was a deal and I need to drive an s-chassis again.

Dude has had it sitting for two years after the front timing guide broke off and it started making funny noises.

Turns out it was just super low on oil. It's pretty much your basic I-don't-know-what-I'm-doing build. Eagle rods, CP pistons, ISIS turbo, JWT tune, knockoff Apex'i intake, knockoff SSQV, etc. Lots of RTV everywhere and it leaks at the front timing cover headgasket area a ton.

My plan is to keep it simple, fix the issues, swap some of the suspension over from the racecar, and drive the wheels off it.

Here's some pics, enjoy.

Fan relay wiring (going back to oem shroud):





That tensioner seal though:



ARP head and main studs as well:



Hopefully this isn't a 2871r clone:



Wait a minute:



Kinda important to ground your shit:



Custom oil restrictor:





Did a pretty decent de-fucking and got it to run and drive. The front timing cover leak is way too aggressive though, so the head is going to have to come off so I can see what's going on. Probably just going to pull the engine.

[RalliartRsX]

Strip the block and measure. If he didn't line hone after those mains, which chances are high considering everything else, the cylinders may be out of round

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Strip the block and measure. If he didn't line hone after those mains, which chances are high considering everything else, the cylinders may be out of round

Yeah, I'm not even sure if the head studs are installed right. It's all gotta come apart. I'm going to do dual guides for the rockers and I gotta check everything in the bottom end because I'm going to thrash on this thing haha.

[S14rebuild]

Holy silcone fuck!! Sum people just shouldnt touch cars.

[Fuglychuki91]

I was scared of this for the shear fact I felt like the po wasn?t going to be able to tell me much. But I?m glad you picked this up and I?m keen to see where you take it. If you wanna do any drifting it?d be tight to see you at auto city

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Fuglychuki91

I was scared of this for the shear fact I felt like the po wasn?t going to be able to tell me much. But I?m glad you picked this up and I?m keen to see where you take it. If you wanna do any drifting it?d be tight to see you at auto city

It will absolutely be at Auto City sometime this year.

Got rid of the DSM and put it in it's place for the next few weeks.



After one last burnout, it's time to pull out the SR.



Drive it 3 miles and after I park it this is what I get from the front timing cover leak.



And boring taking-it-apart pictures.



Gotta love when they plumb the valvecover directly to the intake pipe.

[S14rebuild]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

It will absolutely be at Auto City sometime this year.

Got rid of the DSM and put it in it's place for the next few weeks.



After one last burnout, it's time to pull out the SR.



Drive it 3 miles and after I park it this is what I get from the front timing cover leak.



And boring taking-it-apart pictures.



Gotta love when they plumb the valvecover directly to the intake pipe.

I. Iught a "built"sr like 10yrs ago and leaked from the same spot....swore when i built sr ill never fuk that up lol no easy fix

[RalliartRsX]

Yeah. Idiots like to slap a bnib oil pump assembly on the block without machining both together.

What do these idiots do as a solution? Also even more and more silicone in the area until you can even see metal from the AL head....

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Yeah. Idiots like to slap a bnib oil pump assembly on the block without machining both together.

What do these idiots do as a solution? Also even more and more silicone in the area until you can even see metal from the AL head....

Yeah you should have seen how much I pulled off the front of the head hah. People

[dbeiler]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Fan relay wiring (going back to oem shroud):

Yikes. People don't realize how much amperage E-fans will draw on startup. I've complained/tried to warn people. My FAL fans came with a single 30 amp fuse. Pretty serious electrical engineering oversight considering the fans pull over 40 amps on startup. My fuse holder looked like that pile of lava after a year. A higher capacity or dual fuse/relay setup is necessary.

You probably sleep better at night now knowing the car won't set your garage on fire!

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by dbeiler

Yikes. People don't realize how much amperage E-fans will draw on startup. I've complained/tried to warn people. My FAL fans came with a single 30 amp fuse. Pretty serious electrical engineering oversight considering the fans pull over 40 amps on startup. My fuse holder looked like that pile of lava after a year. A higher capacity or dual fuse/relay setup is necessary.

You probably sleep better at night now knowing the car won't set your garage on fire!

Yep, people are definitely ignorant.

I'm so glad I'm pulling this SR down. So many issues and things I don't like with how it's put together. Let me show you:



IACV pipe broken off it's bracket.



Heater hose pipes not bolted to block.



Intake manifold gasket doesn't even line up and overhangs the ports by a good millimeter on each side.



Pretty much everywhere there should be a gasket there's just RTV, or RTV and an old gasket.



The hose clamp I'm pointing at is the one I put on because the water line wasn't even connected. They used zip ties on the other side...



And here's a better shot of that front timing cover leak. You can physically see the gap between the head and the timing cover



Plenty of other things, like the turbine outlet bolts are just silly, the heater core was bypassed with a kinked up hose, studs missing on the exhaust manifold, etc, etc, etc. This is where I left it for today.

[PoorMans180SX]

Couldn't sleep last night so I pulled it all the way down. Looks like a bunch of shit went through this thing.









Today I did a bunch of cleaning.

[S14rebuild]

Crank journal looks salvageable with a polish

Hows the piston/rings look with that cylinder wall damage? Are all the cylinders lookn like that?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Crank journal looks salvageable with a polish

Hows the piston/rings look with that cylinder wall damage? Are all the cylinders lookn like that?

Crank is definitely good with a polish. Pistons have some scuffing but that's no biggie. It's more if the cylinder walls can just be honed or if they need to be bored. I'm taking it to the machine shop Monday to figure that out.

[PoorMans180SX]

I spent some of my time this week doing little block prep stuff, radiusing and chamfering oil holds in the crank and block, cleaning up the water inlet, and giving the head a quick go over with the die grinder. Took out all the squish because squish is good for efficiency, bad for power. Cleaned up some of the casting in the head and dropped the block off at the machine shop. We'll see what it needs.

[burnsauto]

that poor sr, so much abuse. ballsy move taking out the squish. I remember years ago the argument going on about weather to keep it or nix it, but you've never been afraid of going elbow deep.

[S13project]

That SR never had it so good judging by all the previous 'love' it received. Thank you for saving this one from demise!

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by burnsauto

that poor sr, so much abuse. ballsy move taking out the squish. I remember years ago the argument going on about weather to keep it or nix it, but you've never been afraid of going elbow deep.

Jared, you're alive! Haha, yeah man, getting after it on this thing. Haven't driven an s-chassis in over two years. I miss it desperately.

Originally Posted by S13project

That SR never had it so good judging by all the previous 'love' it received. Thank you for saving this one from demise!

I do what I can!

[PoorMans180SX]

Machinist sent me some pics of the oil pump, which is obviously junk and makes sense given the rest of the engine. I didn't have a impact screwdriver to take it apart, glad he did.

[S14rebuild]

More info on removing the "squish" area please(if u care to share), dam that scoring is intense, glad the crank was scored like that.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

More info on removing the "squish" area please(if u care to share), dam that scoring is intense, glad the crank was scored like that.

Squish or quench is designed to press the air fuel charge towards the spark plug and creates turbulence in the charge. It's designed this way because that helps every atomized fuel molecule get burnt. The downside is your flame travel through the air/fuel charge isn't even, and makes the combustion less stable. Removing the quench means you get a super even flame travel, allowing you to run a little more ignition advance. This is particularly helpful on pump gas. Keep in mind, this will lower your compression ratio. I'm having the head and block decked and running a .99mm headgasket, which should account for some of it, but not all. Purely guessing, if I keep the pistons that were in it (CP 8.5:1), I'll be at something like 8.0:1, maybe lower. If I have to get new pistons, I'll be stepping up to the Diamond Racing 9.6:1 pistons.

[S14rebuild]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Squish or quench is designed to press the air fuel charge towards the spark plug and creates turbulence in the charge. It's designed this way because that helps every atomized fuel molecule get burnt. The downside is your flame travel through the air/fuel charge isn't even, and makes the combustion less stable. Removing the quench means you get a super even flame travel, allowing you to run a little more ignition advance. This is particularly helpful on pump gas. Keep in mind, this will lower your compression ratio. I'm having the head and block decked and running a .99mm headgasket, which should account for some of it, but not all. Purely guessing, if I keep the pistons that were in it (CP 8.5:1), I'll be at something like 8.0:1, maybe lower. If I have to get new pistons, I'll be stepping up to the Diamond Racing 9.6:1 pistons.

Thanks, acually boutbto tear down and build my sr, so def be looking into this...very intresting info

[PoorMans180SX]

Just got my new ACL pump in.



Just put in a pretty large order. New Diamond Racing pistons with 9.6:1 compression and tool steel thicc-boi pin, Wiseco boostline connecting rods, EFR 6258, Koyo N-flow rad, Link G4X ECU, flex fuel sensor, ID1050x's, Radium fuel rail, etc, etc. Beyond excited to put this thing back together...

[S14rebuild]

Heard you had to drill and tap a hole(s) on the acl pump to use on s13 sr. You come across that?

I went with the p2m oil pump. Havent seen any bad reviews all say equal to oem

[RalliartRsX]

^^ I recall the S14/S14 vs S13 pumps are slightly different with an additional boolt hole (or something along those lines).

However I do not recall having to drill and tap a hole. Just alignment

[PoorMans180SX]

It's just drill. This is what they're talking about:

ACL/S14 pump:



S13 pump:

[RalliartRsX]

Yep. The S14 vs S13 front cover is slightly different due to the VCT I assume

[PoorMans180SX]

Yep. Just drill a new hole next to the one that's already there and put a bolt in. Done. This was not done on the S14 cover that was on the car.

Rocker guides from Nissanparts.cc finally shipped. Woot.

[S14rebuild]

Ahhhhhh i see, weird they said you had to tap it aswell. All good through..should be a solid build