GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[codyace]

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

Do you like anything besides what you have? lol. You remind me of one of my very good friends. If it isnt on his car it isnt worth a bull nickle

Not true. There are a ton of things I would change with my car, if I could (well I can, but have more important things to spend and save my money on lol).

I've been playing with SR's for a long time (Granted I started FWD). I've seen throughout the years of what works well, and what doesn't work. That, combined with the fact that my car has been dead reliable (motor wise) now for 3 years (with all of the HPDE, and street driving, and street raising hell), would lend me to believe that my car is setup pretty well. I've started with parts, changed things, and upgraded...so it's notlike I got parts and stayed the same.


When these turbos first hit the market, the .86 far outsold the .64 (plus I used to sell turbos, I knew first hand). Why is this? Unsure...I guess people assumed that with the smaller turbine, that a larger A/R wouldn't make that much of a difference (as seen with the 28RS, which works best with the .86 housing)...however a few of us decided to go against the norm, and use the .64 housing.

I was IMMEDIATELY surprised by the response of the turbo (especially considering the size of the compressor) and began suggesting to others that it's the better turbo. I would give ride, after ride, after ride at meets, events, and hangouts, and recievd nothing but compliments on how much crisper and more fun the car reacted. I soon after dynoed the car and was completly taken back by the results. (I've sinced dynod the car again, at 19 psi, and with the gears, only to make the same power...so I'm happy about that after building the bottom end).

In regard's the Gscracers comments, it's hard to really determine what has better pull from a seat of pants experience. It's hard to explain, but a turbo that comes on sooner, peaks, and then remains linear will NEVER feel as fast as a turbo that peaks and then comes down (the peak throws off the feel). This is why a stock 5.0 mustang feels faster than a Stock t28 sr20, but a stock t28 car is actually faster.

11.65 (120mph) with a shitty launch on DR's, HPDE abuse, 30+mpg cruising, and turn key reliable (as in, my mom has driven my car without worry)...I'd say that's pretty darn good for a .64 turbo huh? I don't see many, if any .86 guys out doing me, especially at my boost level. Sure, I've seen 125 traps..but that's at 25 psi...not saying my car is the shit....wait, I am This is not to say it's the 'right' or 'only' way to go, but I think I provide pretty good evidence of my car getting the balls beat off it.

I'd love to meet up with you sometime so you can drive my car. Maybe after I get these C1's in we can meet up

[TheArkitekt]

Ok, read through the thread and cant seem to find the info on some specific brands of cams. Here is my setup now and what I plan to upgrade to. Car is being used for a road race car, very little if any street driving will take place.

Current setup--
-S13 SR20det (180sx)
-Greddy intake manifold
-Espilier exhaust manifold
-stock internals (as of now)
-AEM EMS w/ MAP
-FMIC, RAD and other supporting components

Plan on getting--
-GT2871R .64 w/ 3" inlet
-550cc injectors (maybe 740s?)
-Cams (here lies the rub)

I have seen from this thread that the S3 cams look to be the slam. However, my parts hookup doesn't have a deal with these so im looking in other directions. I do not necessary want to upgrade valve springs, but will if I have to.

My options are Greddy Easy cams, or TODAs (probably 264/10.5mm).

Plan on running 18psi pump. What kind of results are people seeing with these cams?

[moses]

Quick questions.I just did the gt2871r swap and I couldnt be happier (thank you zilvia and codyace for helping me through it) but there are a couple of things I cant fix
First I cant find the right setting for my profec spec 2 boost controller (13 low,18 high), anyone got these settings on theirs already?
second, I have a greddy rs bov and it changed sound a lot. Is this normal? It sounds like a turkey and regular sound together.
Lastly, I have a real small oil leak (about 3-4 drops when i turn it off) on the oil line into the block, but its not coming out of the bolt, its right above it where the circle thing goes into. how could I stop this since tightening doesnt work?

[xdumbxguyx]

try changing the copper washer mayb it ovalized and is not sealing properly

[2forty]

Originally Posted by TheArkitekt

Ok, read through the thread and cant seem to find the info on some specific brands of cams. Here is my setup now and what I plan to upgrade to. Car is being used for a road race car, very little if any street driving will take place.

Current setup--
-S13 SR20det (180sx)
-Greddy intake manifold
-Espilier exhaust manifold
-stock internals (as of now)
-AEM EMS w/ MAP
-FMIC, RAD and other supporting components

Plan on getting--
-GT2871R .64 w/ 3" inlet
-550cc injectors (maybe 740s?)
-Cams (here lies the rub)

I have seen from this thread that the S3 cams look to be the slam. However, my parts hookup doesn't have a deal with these so im looking in other directions. I do not necessary want to upgrade valve springs, but will if I have to.

My options are Greddy Easy cams, or TODAs (probably 264/10.5mm).

Plan on running 18psi pump. What kind of results are people seeing with these cams?

it seems the todas have the same specs as the hks step 1s, and i have seen numerous setups making about 350whp at 18ps on 91 and rom tunes. if your in the east coast itll probably be closer to to 370whp. you should go for 740s. plus you got a stand alone so i would say 370+

[The_Reaper]

i have a gt2871r 64, Fmic, 3inch all the way back exhaust, walbro 255, 550cc injectors, and im getting a Power Fc. How much am i looking to be putting down to the wheel?

Right now, with the stock 370cc injectors and ecu im putting 186whp, which is weak in my opinion, so im just wondering what should i be expecting with injectors and tuned Apex-i Power Fc?

[slider2828]

Search I have written 2 or 3 threads about this.... Profec E-01 is keyword

Originally Posted by moses

Quick questions.I just did the gt2871r swap and I couldnt be happier (thank you zilvia and codyace for helping me through it) but there are a couple of things I cant fix
First I cant find the right setting for my profec spec 2 boost controller (13 low,18 high), anyone got these settings on theirs already?
second, I have a greddy rs bov and it changed sound a lot. Is this normal? It sounds like a turkey and regular sound together.
Lastly, I have a real small oil leak (about 3-4 drops when i turn it off) on the oil line into the block, but its not coming out of the bolt, its right above it where the circle thing goes into. how could I stop this since tightening doesnt work?

[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by moses

Quick questions.I just did the gt2871r swap and I couldnt be happier (thank you zilvia and codyace for helping me through it) but there are a couple of things I cant fix
First I cant find the right setting for my profec spec 2 boost controller (13 low,18 high), anyone got these settings on theirs already?
second, I have a greddy rs bov and it changed sound a lot. Is this normal? It sounds like a turkey and regular sound together.
Lastly, I have a real small oil leak (about 3-4 drops when i turn it off) on the oil line into the block, but its not coming out of the bolt, its right above it where the circle thing goes into. how could I stop this since tightening doesnt work?

I could be wrong but I believe the stock actuator on that turbo is 14-15psi - so ur boost cont. will not do anything lower.

[OBEEWON]

More like 7. Depends what spring you get also.

Yeah your BOV will change sound since more air is being relieved.

[moses]

Originally Posted by xdumbxguyx

try changing the copper washer mayb it ovalized and is not sealing properly

Damn I just put in 4 1/2 quarts of royal purple in. does that mean I have to dump out my all my oil just to change the washers? Can i reuse my oil? It has like 30 miles on it.

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

More like 7. Depends what spring you get also.

Yeah your BOV will change sound since more air is being relieved.

It is 15 so I guess Im doin 15 low and 18 high. Man my bov sounds weird though but i guess its ok. It sounds like its blowing off and my turbo is getting that backspin sound at the same time.

Originally Posted by slider2828

Search I have written 2 or 3 threads about this.... Profec E-01 is keyword

OK. I found what you were talking about, but the ones i saw were for the t25 and t28. If you gave me a starting point I could probably tweak it from there. I pm'ed you.

Thanks a lot for all your guys help.

[WILDACEX187]

u can reuse the oil just make sure to put it in a very clean container

[FIlthy 24O]

any body have a gt35 turbo for sale or another top mount turbo something for a rb25.....thanks in advance

[slider2828]

WTF? Why are you doing a WTB in this thread!! Total waste of time....

[FIlthy 24O]

how could that be a waste of time. im sure this is a very good place to look/ask

[ecuastyle84]

Originally Posted by FIlthy 24O

how could that be a waste of time. im sure this is a very good place to look/ask

That may be but it's best just to stick to the topic and not seeing if anyone has a gt35 for sale. That kinda stuff you want to take in the WTB Thread, pretty sure you'll have same luck finding one in there than in here

[OBEEWON]

Originally Posted by ecuastyle84

That may be but it's best just to stick to the topic and not seeing if anyone has a gt35 for sale. That kinda stuff you want to take in the WTB Thread, pretty sure you'll have same luck finding one in there than in here

Yes please. We have gotten way off topic.

I asked to see more dyno sheets of .86 guys. I posted a comparison dynograph of .64 and .86 on the previouse page.

Also I want to know specifically for the .86 if the compressor housing options make a difference.

[slider2828]

I probably don't have any money to dyno my car until Jan as ima heading the Japan to visit my gf. Anyways, I run a .86 and love it... Off a corner, man it pulls forever constantly to redline and noticeable. Really .lb for .lb I would really love to see a .64 equally modded and do the same thing.

HKS Step 1 264 IN/EX
Bone Stock IN/EX Man
Greddy DUMP - Blitz all the way back from there
Built Bottom and Top end but no port and polishing
Blitz LM IM
HKS Mushroom
GT2871R .86 AR (3" Inlet)
Fidanza Flywheel
Stock Shaft

Greddy Emanage/Profec-E01/Innovative tuned by me...

In terms of anything else adding power and torque not much else.... and it is scary fast and I have been in T78 MKIV and this feels crazy out of a turn and I am driving my car as daily.

I mean codyace has an awesome setup, but we are talking about port polishing this and swain and hone that and I am sure it makes a huge difference with great response, but this is for people knowing what they are doing. Ima just a bolt on and make it reliable guy and for 95% of people out there, its the same philosophy which is kind of what Obeewon's philosophy.

So comparing tuning philosophies, really oranges to oranges, a .86 has more lag, but not that much difference to a .64 and in the top end, the .86 will out pull the .64. You just can't get away from design....

[s15specR]

Originally Posted by FIlthy 24O

how could that be a waste of time. im sure this is a very good place to look/ask

My buddy/neighbor got a brand new GT35R for $900obo

[s15specR]

but honestly back on topic..........pm me if you want more info or try the Wanted forum

[OBEEWON]

Originally Posted by slider2828

I mean codyace has an awesome setup, but we are talking about port polishing this and swain and hone that and I am sure it makes a huge difference with great response, but this is for people knowing what they are doing. Ima just a bolt on and make it reliable guy and for 95% of people out there, its the same philosophy which is kind of what Obeewon's philosophy.

So comparing tuning philosophies, really oranges to oranges, a .86 has more lag, but not that much difference to a .64 and in the top end, the .86 will out pull the .64. You just can't get away from design....

Get an IM and dyno...

Im gonna hone and swain my boxers.

Im still 100% NOT CONVINCED that the trade off on a proper and fully built .86 setup is that big of a difference. ESPECIALLY after looking at Gsracers dyno's. If anything I think when pushed to the brink the .86 would outshine the .64. I just wish everyone with the .86 wasn't as broke as me lol.

[TheArkitekt]

hmmm maybe ill go for the .86 after all. with the toda 264/11.5 lift cams and the EMS i think it should be good enough for road race without too much lag.

[slider2828]

I am actually building my car for response not so much top end HP cause I do raod courses and autox, so IM would get me more top end, but probably lose some torque which I love keke....

I second what you said.... What? I have some CK's that are swain and honed, nice!!!

[OBEEWON]

Truth. I did notice a HUGE loss in low end power after IM/EM but a huge bump in mid/top end.


Marcs and Spensor Honed/Swained draws are the G.O.A.T.

[smelly240]

Originally Posted by moses

Damn I just put in 4 1/2 quarts of royal purple in. does that mean I have to dump out my all my oil just to change the washers? Can i reuse my oil? It has like 30 miles on it.


It is 15 so I guess Im doin 15 low and 18 high. Man my bov sounds weird though but i guess its ok. It sounds like its blowing off and my turbo is getting that backspin sound at the same time.



OK. I found what you were talking about, but the ones i saw were for the t25 and t28. If you gave me a starting point I could probably tweak it from there. I pm'ed you.

Thanks a lot for all your guys help.

step one get out shop vac - step 2 cover end with rag - step 3 take off oil cap and have friend hold hose on oil fill hole - take out drain plug... i been doing this for years and i ran a jiffy lube before working for now working @ ybh. trust me it workst and NO YOU WILL NOT SUCK OUT ANY OIL

it'll make slurpy sounds as air goes into th edrain plug hole :P

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by codyace

I'll get my car on a DD dyno yet. I'm changing some stuff, so I'd like to see what my car makes again on the dyno I always use, and then head to a DD to see how she works out.

Do you need help locating one?

[slider2828]

Yah in AUTOX low end loss is unacceptable.... and I prefer a little more linear gain then bigger mid and top end gain.

[flamebag16]

couple questions bout gt2871r

i recently installed the following on my s14 sr20det
gt2871r
740cc nismo injectors
z32maf
i have front mount 3in exhaust walbro bla blah all the normal stuff so here is my question i have an enthalpy tune car seemed to run great didnt notice any detonation then bam all the sudden dipstick shoots out i pull over o shit there goes a ringland.
So i proceeded to take the motor out and tear it down after compression numbers turned up very low in cylinder 2. Get the motor apart turns out number 2 ringland is in peices time for a rebuild.
So here is my question my motor ran strong before i did anything, it ran strong with the gt2871r at 16lbs of boost, what are people opinions on the enthalpy tune, what changes do some make to timing when turning the boost up when installing gt2871r or any comments in general because a blown ringland usually points to detonation (or maybe not thats why i made this post)... i realize i should have done more research before i installed turbo but you live and you learn so o well

[slider2828]

Funny thing, my car also blew on cylinder 2. I actually had a cracked piston but rings were fine and I ran also 16 psi. Anyways, in my case, I think there must have been some defect on the bottom, so I rebuilt with forged everything. Sometimes these things happen and a 2871R pushed considerably more air into the cylinder... I say there just isn't much you can do. I tuned my own car and ALWAYS kept AFRs under check with innovative wideband with data logging... Not much you can do sometimes, doesn't mean the tune is bad....

[flamebag16]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Funny thing, my car also blew on cylinder 2. I actually had a cracked piston but rings were fine and I ran also 16 psi. Anyways, in my case, I think there must have been some defect on the bottom, so I rebuilt with forged everything. Sometimes these things happen and a 2871R pushed considerably more air into the cylinder... I say there just isn't much you can do. I tuned my own car and ALWAYS kept AFRs under check with innovative wideband with data logging... Not much you can do sometimes, doesn't mean the tune is bad....

Yea wideband is somehting i will be investing in before i start car up again i guess shit happens not blaming it on the tune just making sure i dont make the same mistake twice anyways i will also be going forged bottom end also looking into some springs and retainers and cams

[smelly240]

in the midrange i always find myself pulling timing - 3800-5000ish. and then ease it back up 6000-7400 to about 18-20 (however much it takes before it starts to knock then back it off a bit) i've done a few cars previously enthalpy - its not that they're bad - just you cant just throw a map on it and have it be perfect. Every car will not be the same - regardless of the mods being the same. Thats why a lot of people with enthalpy ecu's use a afc with it - but that fucks with ur timing. get that wideband for xmas and make sure its right.


obee breaky my cah! no good cowboy! you not numba one!

english translation - the obeejuice has cracked intercooler making car run like doodoo.

P.S. stock metal front s13 fenders are whack, obee. im staying with frp forever so piss off sandwich eater man!