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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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07-16-2001, 09:44 PM | #31 |
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Ahhhh...but we are comparing a TURBO KA engine vs a sr20det. I agree the stock KA isnt anything super, but add a turbo on there and it comes to life in ways never before dreamed of when looking at it stock. There isnt a right and wrong answer, just preference.
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07-16-2001, 10:16 PM | #32 |
Leaky Injector
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I have driven val's fmax kit on his 98 240 at 7psi, it has lots of torques, with racing cams fuel upgrade clutch but it still not feels like it want to rev at higher rpm. don't get me wrong I love this car I love this motor and I aslo hate to loose. I got quite nervus pulling up to a civic sir even though I have 155hp when he has 160hp in theory I should kick his ass cause the rear drive will have better traction and everything. plus at only 80000km my ka have proven unreliable in NA trim so thought if I turbo it will kill it faster unless I have it rebuilt. which will cause more money than have an silvia heart transplant.
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07-17-2001, 03:27 PM | #34 |
Leaky Injector
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I would buy the black top if I had to but lucky me I found a black top without vvtc but it has a t28 instead of a t25 big diferrence in performance, cause friend of mine has a red top, it wasn't very fast comparing to my car. I spent about 7000can so 4500 us for everything.
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07-17-2001, 03:41 PM | #35 |
On the subject of road racing, I think Hp is much more important than torque. Not that torque is unimportant though. For example, an F1 car makes 900+ Hp but only 250 lb/ft of torque. They are pretty much the fastest things around a track. Except for possibly CART, and CART engines are pretty much the same in terms of torque.
That being said though, as cars get heavie, they do need more torque to be motivated out of corners. Remember though, torque can be raised or lowered by gearing, and hp can't. |
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07-17-2001, 08:25 PM | #38 |
nguyen, did you install the motor yourself or did you have a shop do it? If so how much would you say you spent after labor? Thanks <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>
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07-17-2001, 10:00 PM | #40 |
Awesome. Is it pretty labor intensive? How many hours did it take you to complete? A friend of the family's has his own shop so I might see if I could do it there. This will probably not be too soon as I still have to sell my stang and purchase my s14. Thanks for your help nguyen.
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07-18-2001, 06:46 PM | #46 |
Zilvia Member
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man.. everyone replies so fast..
i've heard the KA needs a huge rebuild b4 slapping a blower onto it.. is this true? the engine itself wasn't built to handle the turbo in the beginning anyhow, and it results in massive damage or something like that, rite? i dunno... high torque for AutoX seems reasonable, but high torque for road racing doesn't seem so feasible.. in Japan, the Silvia is a sweet car that many ppl drive b/c of it's cost efficiency and performance. A LOT of ppl touge wif their S13s,S14s, and S15s.. high speeds, coming down mountain corners... they drift and all that stuff too! what i'm trying to say is... even in normal street races in Japan, not too much high-end torque more preferrable b/c when it comes to cornering, you less likely spin out or massively oversteer ............ loss of control to a driver who doesn't know how to handle their car like that can mean major trouble. when it comes to straight drag.. KA would prolly b preferrable... no real problems can be experienced then.. but if you take it on a track, it SHOULD show up on the corners. the driver SHOULD feel more resistance at the driving wheels due to the torque |
07-18-2001, 08:13 PM | #47 |
From what I understand the s14 ka motor is capable of dealing with 12psi of boost. I wouldn't run this all the time without rebuilding the engine first. It's probably safe at 8psi for daily driving but I'm not 100% sure about that.
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07-18-2001, 09:35 PM | #48 |
Leaky Injector
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Well since i am 17 and broke, i think the best choice would be to go with that ka. The reason that i dont want to do the sr swap is because after looking at heavy throttle.com, i found that to do the swap that i wanted would cost about 4,700. I would have to save all of my money from my weak paying job for 8 more months to get that (because i have car payments on my other car). Then, on top of that, i would still need to get better brakes and suspension to go with the more powerful car. Plus since i will be installing the engine with just the help of one friend, It would probably be a lot less of a headache to put the ka engine in the left hand drive 240 rather then modding a right hand drive sr engine to work. By the end of this summer, i will have 2000 dollars to go towards my engine swap. Hopefully that will be all i need to get the ka in my car and running. If anybody has any helpful hints on the install, your help would be most appreciated. Just incase i didn't say, my 240 is an 89...if that matters.
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07-19-2001, 01:24 PM | #49 |
you guys are kinda comparing apples to oranges. a ka24det with a 9.5 compression will have low end torque. say with that setup, you make 300hp at the wheels. this is at 12psi. now, you lower the compression to 8.5. you are now running 15psi. and you still are only making 300hp to the wheels. guess which one will have more torque down low? the high compression. when you go lower compression, you give up low end torque and gain reliability. a sr20det feels like a ka24de up until 2,500 rpm. from there, it feels faster. the ka24det is cheaper. its also easier to install then a sr20det.
btw, the sr20det can make 350hp to wheels on a stock block. you will need to build the ka at maybe 275 to the wheels. and one last thing, what about the ca18det? is nobody trying to do something different? shaun |
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07-19-2001, 01:55 PM | #50 |
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I own a KA24DET in Orlando and had no problems until I put in an Apex S-AFC, this on top of the Jim wolf ECU I had was a problem. The original fuel map from the ECU provided the maximum amount of fuel that my injectors could handle, when I put the S-AFC in and tried to richen it, it actually was leaning it out because I didn't max out the settings on the AFC, this caused detonation and subsequently the melting of #3 piston. The custom kit was installed and running for a year and 3 months before it blew. The car ran 13.446@ 103.32 mph with full interior, 17" wheels and only 10 psi. This kit was thrown together for less than $2500 installed. I only dynoed 200.1 to the wheels with my 2 1/2" exhaust hooked up, the run I made at the track was open exhaust. I was using a small T3 also. This whole topic has been gone over quite a bit but here's what you personnaly need to ask yourself. What do you want in the long run? Do you want to run 11's or will you be happy with just a turbo motor of some kind with some slight modification? Also do you want to be able to go to your local Nissan Dealer and pick up parts for your motor or have to struggle to find someone to get parts from and to work on it. If you really want to modify the engine to it's fullest you are gonna have to spend some dough on either motor. I have had an SR in my 89 and now I have a 96 with the KA, I prefer the KA but that is only my opinion. My KA is almost finished, hopefully within 3-5 weeks it will be running, this time with well over 400 horses at the wheels and gobbs of torque on race gas. I have added a T3/T4 60-1 Hifi, spearco intercooler with larger piping, custom intake manifold, custom fuel rail, MSD 72LB. injectors, Arias 8.5:1 pistons bored .5 over, Carillo rods, Mustang Cobra MAFS, 3" downpipe, N1 exhaust, mildly ported and polished head, balanced and blueprinted crank. I'll update it's progress.
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07-22-2001, 02:41 PM | #51 |
Zilvia Member
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i just got a ride in Nguyen's ride..................................
i luv the SR20... but like the guy said above, the SR20 does have the torque until 2000rpm or wutever... but it feels soooooooooooooooooooo fast after that!!! aaaaaaagh..... so sweet. |
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