Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by Matej

Do most OEM Nissan wheels use 60-degree taper lug nuts, same as aftermarket wheels?

I believe so. My SE S13 rims fit tight using the same lugnuts that my XXRs and my Varrstoens use.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by solo_ryder

Probably will run like shit with oversized injectors. Make sure you have a air fuel gauge hooked up. But I would feel safer going with a base map

Let's talk about injectors and what they really do well. They meter a fuel spray into the intake manifold to balance the Air-Fuel ratio. Your 350, 550 injectors are grunt injectors, they have a little precision built into them, and they work ok. Your 650 and 750 injectors have a little more precision built into them and they work pretty good.
You want to have your high performance engine purr? You suck it up, you buy 1000cc injectors that are the most precisely built injectors and you get the benefits of high tolerance precision.
Your idle circuit meters smoother because the 1000cc injector does it smoother than any other size. It has the ability to meter a smoother, finer spray than any other size. From idle to mid range this injector meters fuel far better than the smaller injectors. Now stamp that pedal, dent the floor with it, and that big injector really shines, you get the smooth transitional power that the bigger injector is made to do with the highest level of precision.
You punks want to run crap and do it on the cheap, go buy those wee injectors and get a tune for them. You want to run quicker, faster, smoother, you go buy and tune for 1000cc injectors and you never look back

[JBB]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Let's talk about injectors and what they really do well. They meter a fuel spray into the intake manifold to balance the Air-Fuel ratio. Your 350, 550 injectors are grunt injectors, they have a little precision built into them, and they work ok. Your 650 and 750 injectors have a little more precision built into them and they work pretty good.
You want to have your high performance engine purr? You suck it up, you buy 1000cc injectors that are the most precisely built injectors and you get the benefits of high tolerance precision.
Your idle circuit meters smoother because the 1000cc injector does it smoother than any other size. It has the ability to meter a smoother, finer spray than any other size. From idle to mid range this injector meters fuel far better than the smaller injectors. Now stamp that pedal, dent the floor with it, and that big injector really shines, you get the smooth transitional power that the bigger injector is made to do with the highest level of precision.
You punks want to run crap and do it on the cheap, go buy those wee injectors and get a tune for them. You want to run quicker, faster, smoother, you go buy and tune for 1000cc injectors and you never look back

Mikester once said we all have our mental budgets and our physical budgets. Of course I would love some ID 1000's, as well as AEM v2, a dope ass twin scroll manifold with a GTX35R.

Its just not in my physical budget, so for now I have s15 injectors/turbo and going down the road to fever racing to have Martin from Enthalpy put a rom tune on my ecu and make some adjustments on the dyno.

I appreciate the advice though. Do you have any on the question -- would I be alright to drive like a grandma about 8 miles to the shop, or should I bring my ECU to them for a base map to get over there?

Originally Posted by solo_ryder

Probably will run like shit with oversized injectors. Make sure you have a air fuel gauge hooked up. But I would feel safer going with a base map

Thanks Bud

[KravingAKouki]

Am I overthinking it when I would assume swapping in a heavier engine like the rb into an s chassis would need a stiffer suspension as far as spring rates for coilovers? I was looking to run 6k/8k coilovers for my daily, and when I swap my rb in, would those spring rates suffice? Or would the added weight of the engine need stiffer spring rates?

[meoww]

will non abs rotors work on my abs s13

[az_240]

Originally Posted by KravingAKouki

Am I overthinking it when I would assume swapping in a heavier engine like the rb into an s chassis would need a stiffer suspension as far as spring rates for coilovers? I was looking to run 6k/8k coilovers for my daily, and when I swap my rb in, would those spring rates suffice? Or would the added weight of the engine need stiffer spring rates?

Most go with stiffer spring rates in the front but it's not absolutely needed.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Matej

Do most OEM Nissan wheels use 60-degree taper lug nuts, same as aftermarket wheels?

All lugs have to be manufactured with a 60* taper as per US regs to be sold here. In order to satisfy the US, as well as most other global markets, 99% of the lugs you find will be made to the same tolerances. The only differences will be in the materials, steel(set it, forget it) vs forged aluminum(tighten to 85'#, do it again each week)

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by KravingAKouki

Am I overthinking it when I would assume swapping in a heavier engine like the rb into an s chassis would need a stiffer suspension as far as spring rates for coilovers? I was looking to run 6k/8k coilovers for my daily, and when I swap my rb in, would those spring rates suffice? Or would the added weight of the engine need stiffer spring rates?

All personal preference. I was running 8/6 on my Aragostas, swapped in my RB25 and felt like the spring rate was too soft for the weight. Figured they're tired and old, ended up running 11/9k Fortune Autos but still doesnt feel right for me. At this point, I think the roads are just too shitty where I'm at to DD it.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by JBB

Mikester once said we all have our mental budgets and our physical budgets. Of course I would love some ID 1000's, as well as AEM v2, a dope ass twin scroll manifold with a GTX35R.

Its just not in my physical budget, so for now I have s15 injectors/turbo and going down the road to fever racing to have Martin from Enthalpy put a rom tune on my ecu and make some adjustments on the dyno.

I appreciate the advice though. Do you have any on the question -- would I be alright to drive like a grandma about 8 miles to the shop, or should I bring my ECU to them for a base map to get over there?

Thanks Bud

Personally, I'd talk to Martin about getting you the base tune to drive it there. Better yet, tow it there. Sure 440cc arent that much bigger over the stockers but I'd do it just for the peace of mind.

[JBB]

Thanks dude, I appreciate it!

Originally Posted by KravingAKouki

Am I overthinking it when I would assume swapping in a heavier engine like the rb into an s chassis would need a stiffer suspension as far as spring rates for coilovers? I was looking to run 6k/8k coilovers for my daily, and when I swap my rb in, would those spring rates suffice? Or would the added weight of the engine need stiffer spring rates?

The rb(25?) is only, what, about 200 pounds heavier than an sr20det? Assuming you meant 8k/6k, I think you'll be fine but I dont have experience with driving with that motor. It seems like it would be the equivalent of having a grown man riding shotgun (not quite the same weight distribution but you get the idea)

[KravingAKouki]

Originally Posted by JBB

The rb(25?) is only, what, about 200 pounds heavier than an sr20det? Assuming you meant 8k/6k, I think you'll be fine but I dont have experience with driving with that motor. It seems like it would be the equivalent of having a grown man riding shotgun (not quite the same weight distribution but you get the idea)

Thanks! I guess I was just reading to far into it. I am going with the rb26.

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

All personal preference. I was running 8/6 on my Aragostas, swapped in my RB25 and felt like the spring rate was too soft for the weight. Figured they're tired and old, ended up running 11/9k Fortune Autos but still doesnt feel right for me. At this point, I think the roads are just too shitty where I'm at to DD it.

Thanks! I just think 11k/9k is too stiff. I was looking at the 8k/6k FA's. Roads arent too bad where I am at. I guess if they are too soft, I could just get the swift spring upgrade.

Originally Posted by az_240

Most go with stiffer spring rates in the front but it's not absolutely needed.

Thanks!

[S14jake]

Originally Posted by S14jake

I've seen a ton of threads about using a kade power steering pump on an sr. My question is, are the s13 and 14 pumps the same? I'm looking around and seeing different part numbers and prices.

Cheapest dual cam pump is ok for a redtop?

Anyone? Bueller?

[acslater9]

Here's the rundown I finished replacing my WP,belts, and hoses. I go to start the car and my gas pedal is really loose. I guess something went wrong when I was working on something.

I heard I have to adjust the throttle cable? If someone can tell me how I would be able to do it, I would really appreciate it.

[Lompang]

Trying to fix everything in my car before real mods. Have a KA24DE with around 200k miles in my S14, but it feels like the engine is failing or something related to it which seems easily plausible but I want to know for sure. When I launch car it feels slower than a lot of other KA24DE launches and the engine makes a loud noise. Like after 2 launches the engine seems to rev a lot but barely accelerate have to wait like 10-15 minutes before it actually accelerates like normal otherwise it becomes rev happy with no acceleration. Any idea what's causing this? Pistons or just need a rebuild? Going to do compression test soon to see the psi in the cylinders.

[JBB]

Has the clutch ever been replaced? It could be revving and not catching gear so you aren't going anywhere. You would probably know if it was the clutch tho

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Lompang

Trying to fix everything in my car before real mods. Have a KA24DE with around 200k miles in my S14, but it feels like the engine is failing or something related to it which seems easily plausible but I want to know for sure. When I launch car it feels slower than a lot of other KA24DE launches and the engine makes a loud noise. Like after 2 launches the engine seems to rev a lot but barely accelerate have to wait like 10-15 minutes before it actually accelerates like normal otherwise it becomes rev happy with no acceleration. Any idea what's causing this? Pistons or just need a rebuild? Going to do compression test soon to see the psi in the cylinders.

If it revs high, but the car doesn't go, it's a clutch.

If your motor is spinning at a given speed, that should be all that matters - it's possible to have less power at that speed (so less acceleration), if your motor is in poor condition - but if it IS spinning that fast, and the wheel is not spinning that fast, the problem is between the flywheel and the wheels - so, very likely, the part designed to control slip is slipping excessively.

When the clutch cools, it grabs again.

Does it smoke? Or smell like burnt clutch? At 200k, you're nearly ready for one, I know I am. Double that readyness if you never learned to drive manual from someone experienced.

Unless you have an auto - still presumably something with the heat dissipating and allowing normal functioning. Make sure the fluid is full, I guess.

It's not your motor. Basically the only way that the motor could rev, but not transmit that power out, would be with a busted crankshaft or a flywheel that came off - and it wouldn't even idle, if that was the case. Not to mention, you couldn't turn it over with the starter.

*edit*


As you can see, the inside of the engine pretty much MUST move in lockstep, you can't simply have your pistons revving, and not have the power going out, if the piston is moving seperately from the crank that motor will NOT run.

[Agent S14]

Does anyone know who still sells kazama sideskirts for the S14?

[Lompang]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

If it revs high, but the car doesn't go, it's a clutch.

If your motor is spinning at a given speed, that should be all that matters - it's possible to have less power at that speed (so less acceleration), if your motor is in poor condition - but if it IS spinning that fast, and the wheel is not spinning that fast, the problem is between the flywheel and the wheels - so, very likely, the part designed to control slip is slipping excessively.

When the clutch cools, it grabs again.

Does it smoke? Or smell like burnt clutch? At 200k, you're nearly ready for one, I know I am. Double that readyness if you never learned to drive manual from someone experienced.

Unless you have an auto - still presumably something with the heat dissipating and allowing normal functioning. Make sure the fluid is full, I guess.

It's not your motor. Basically the only way that the motor could rev, but not transmit that power out, would be with a busted crankshaft or a flywheel that came off - and it wouldn't even idle, if that was the case. Not to mention, you couldn't turn it over with the starter.

*edit*


As you can see, the inside of the engine pretty much MUST move in lockstep, you can't simply have your pistons revving, and not have the power going out, if the piston is moving seperately from the crank that motor will NOT run.

Has a new clutch already though so I don't think that's the problem

[JBB]

Did you install the clutch yourself? Only way to know for sure it was done correctly

[Lompang]

Originally Posted by JBB

Did you install the clutch yourself? Only way to know for sure it was done correctly

Nope a reputable shop did it though shops should know their stuff right?

[TheRealSy90]

Possibly your flywheel is very glazed and they didn't refinish it?

[Lompang]

Bought completely new clutch/flywheel etc

[new2240s]

Quick Question. I have a 90 204sx and my passenger side head light is not turning on. The running lights and turn signal work but the head light doesn't go on. I checked the bulb and fuses and those are all good. I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion on what the issue may be.

[the-rusty-240]

Hey guys i was removing my brake lines on my s14 and my drivers side hardline broke.... So i got around to thinking about it and decided i should just rip out my abs while im at it. So my problem is what do i need to replace besides the hardlines? The BMC? Brake booster? And where can i get hardlines from? Will these work?
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...san-240sx.html

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by acslater9

Here's the rundown I finished replacing my WP,belts, and hoses. I go to start the car and my gas pedal is really loose. I guess something went wrong when I was working on something.

I heard I have to adjust the throttle cable? If someone can tell me how I would be able to do it, I would really appreciate it.

Follow the throttle cable from the firewall to towards the intake manifold/throttle body. You have 2 12mm nuts holding the cable to the holder on the manifold, just loosen the nuts, and pull the cable back until the tension is snug on the cable. Tigheten the nuts back down and you should be goo.

Originally Posted by the-rusty-240

Hey guys i was removing my brake lines on my s14 and my drivers side hardline broke.... So i got around to thinking about it and decided i should just rip out my abs while im at it. So my problem is what do i need to replace besides the hardlines? The BMC? Brake booster? And where can i get hardlines from? Will these work?
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...san-240sx.html

Never used it but from the description, it should work. IIRC, you need to change your BMC since your BMC only has 2 ports that goes to the ABS module. You get rid of the ABS, you'd need a 3 port non-ABS BMC.

[the-rusty-240]

Thanks man :thumbup: so i need hardlines and manual BMC?

[white95zenki]

Is there anyway to test oxygen sensors??. because my car has a check engine light on i ran the scanner on and its telling me the oxygen is meet up but idk which it is if its the front one or rear one.

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

Follow the throttle cable from the firewall to towards the intake manifold/throttle body. You have 2 12mm nuts holding the cable to the holder on the manifold, just loosen the nuts, and pull the cable back until the tension is snug on the cable. Tigheten the nuts back down and you should be goo.

Sounds easy, Thanks!

[acslater9]

Well this is interesting. I decided to adjust my throttle cable and I noticed something. I replaced my WP/belts/hoses with no problem and had some problems with installing the belts. Anyways, I go to start the car and without me pushing the gas pedal, the car automatically shoots in RPM's. It was as if I were pushing the gas pedal all the way down, which I was not.

So this brings me to the point where I was going to adjust my throttle cable. I adjust the cable and at first the pedal would feel fine, but then once I push it all the way down it slacks again. Could it be my throttle cable or something else?

[jameswouldgo]

So I am looking at some new clutches to go with either a Clutch Masters FX300 or an Act NS1-HDSS/XTSS. Which one do you guys prefer? I want a clutch that is easy for daily driving also stop and go traffic.