2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[Black R]

Oh and since my alternator died: what alternator are you guys running?

I'm about to go to the junkyard and find an LS400 to pull a 1uz alternator off of for cheap.

Anybody found a cheap high output alternator for the 2j?

[turbob16ef]

There's someone on supraforums selling a 200amp for 100.


Nevermind on the alt, he sold it.

[turbob16ef]

Originally Posted by reynas14

I like the magnafuel 750 pump too but I heard that they sometimes arent reliable since they run hot and can burn the winding's! Have you used these before or know anyone that has? I don't want to run duel pumps but i will if its more reliable than a 500$$$ pump ya know lol

Also just FYI to anyone buying a drive shaft:
Shaftmasters is starting their black friday sales now and end on Dec 15th. They quoted me 340-342 shipped for aluminum!!! Thats a super good deal.

I need to try and find some measurements because i dont have a way to dry fit the engine and tranny until my buddies barns done this spring.........
Anyone on here have some good measurements?

My application is a 1996 240sx 2jzgte aristo R154 and my diff has a KAAZ 2 way if that matters. Thanks guys!

I haven't heard anyone have problems with the 750 pump. Most people don't wire them correctly, causing them to overheat or burn wiring/relays. The person I got my pump from had roughly 25k on it at 1100hp on e85. Said he never once had a problem. Which is another reason why people run the intank because they don't heat up the fuel. The magna750 is an awesome pump, use there dual relay setup, maybe even upgrade to 10ga wiring.

MagnaFuel MP-4303 in tank?

[91ka24]

Could some one please look on there aristo 2j and tell me what color wires on the o2 sensor go to the harness color wires. The plugs are missing off my o2 sensor and my harness, so I need to splice em together

[Black R]

Originally Posted by turbob16ef

There's someone on supraforums selling a 200amp for 100.


Nevermind on the alt, he sold it.

Thanks for trying.

I'd prefer to buy something compatible at autozone, because they have a lifetime warranty and are everywhere + open 24hrs at some locations.

I'll research and see what I can find that has higher output and is cheap.

* so far, it looks like the aristo alternator puts out 65 amps and the LS 400 and GS 400 alternators put out 100 amps.

I've heard of them being interchangeable, so I guess I'll try and see.

[Chronicle]

Originally Posted by Black R

Thanks for trying.

I'd prefer to buy something compatible at autozone, because they have a lifetime warranty and are everywhere + open 24hrs at some locations.

I'll research and see what I can find that has higher output and is cheap.

* so far, it looks like the aristo alternator puts out 65 amps and the LS 400 and GS 400 alternators put out 100 amps.

I've heard of them being interchangeable, so I guess I'll try and see.

If they are, definitely let us know. I knew the Aristo alternators weren't great, but 65 amps is pretty terrible.

[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by Chronicle

If they are, definitely let us know. I knew the Aristo alternators weren't great, but 65 amps is pretty terrible.

Damn and I was planning on running a system... guess Im going to need to upgrade

[Chronicle]

So I removed the exhaust manifold today and noticed that the exhaust port of the #3 cylinder on the head has a light coat of oil all around it. My mechanic friend told me that it's just a minor oil leak and ignore it. Am I just being paranoid about this?

[BiG MiKE86]

Alright guys... lets talk intercoolers...

Ive got a throwback Greddy V-SPL kit from my SR swap that I believe is only rated to about 300-350hp IIRC. Should I swap this out now before I get all my pipes fabbed or will it be ok? Im hoping to make 425-475rwhp right away

[Chronicle]

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86

Alright guys... lets talk intercoolers...

Ive got a throwback Greddy V-SPL kit from my SR swap that I believe is only rated to about 300-350hp IIRC. Should I swap this out now before I get all my pipes fabbed or will it be ok? Im hoping to make 425-475rwhp right away

What's the size of the intercooler's core, and what's the diameter of the piping? I'd compare whatever your specs are to some off-the-shelf 2J swap kits and see how they compare.

[nsain]

Originally Posted by Black R

Oh and since my alternator died: what alternator are you guys running?

I'm about to go to the junkyard and find an LS400 to pull a 1uz alternator off of for cheap.

Anybody found a cheap high output alternator for the 2j?

oem toyota 130amp alternators for less than $100
130 amp OEM alternator for the JZ engines!

[Black R]

^ thanks.

Originally Posted by kane93tt

The Tundra 03-04-05 V8 130A Alternator p/n is 27060-0F040

Application:

SEQUOIA 03-07 (4.7L, 2UZFE eng), 130 amp
TUNDRA 03-06 8 cyl, 130 amp

They pop for around 75-100$ shipped on eBay

Where are you guys tapping in the sending units for your gauges?

I have oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp...

The oil pressure one I'm using the Lexus long hollow banjo bolt.
The water temp one I'm putting in the lower rad hose.

But I'm stumped on the oil temp sending unit - should I put it in the oil pan?

[boink]

Hey guys,
Just finished my swap, and I've got some strange noise coming from the rear end ONLY when the car squats, so 1st-4th gear. Check the video, but if you cant - its a loud squeal, sounds like metal on metal.

Heres some info on the car.
1JZ with R154 S14 (stock twins)
3" exhaust with magnaflow muffler
Nismo 1.5 way diff
Full suspension arms
PBM subframe risers


Here are a couple things i have checked.
The wheel is not hitting the strut when it squats.
The driveshaft is not hitting the exhaust or ebrake clips.

Heres a video, let me know what you guys think, this noise is beyond me and its driving me nuts. I've never heard a diff make that noise, but maybe it is?
The noise persists until i let off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkGBHg0pwCk

Appreciate any light you guys can shed.

[Drink&Drift]

How low is your car? make sure your RUCA isnt rubbing the frame rail pinch weld above it, you have to notch that out if your car is low enough.

it doesn't sound like that is your problem, but worth checking.

sounds more internal in the differential casing, hate to say it.

[turbob16ef]

I know you said you check wheel/strut. How bout wheel/lower control arm? Or possibly the U-joints?

[boink]

Originally Posted by Drink&Drift

How low is your car? make sure your RUCA isnt rubbing the frame rail pinch weld above it, you have to notch that out if your car is low enough.

it doesn't sound like that is your problem, but worth checking.

sounds more internal in the differential casing, hate to say it.

Car sits pretty low, wheel specs are 18x10.5 +15, about a half inch from tucking stock metal. I hammered the pinch weld pretty good, i would imagine that would be more of a bottoming out feeling.

I will have to check wheel to lower control arm, but i dont see any marks on the wheel.

Driveshaft is brand new.

Hopefully its not a diff issue, but at this point ill be happy to have the problem diagnosed.

Any other input guys?

[AS240]

Originally Posted by Black R

Where are you guys tapping in the sending units for your gauges?

I have oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp...

The oil pressure one I'm using the Lexus long hollow banjo bolt.
The water temp one I'm putting in the lower rad hose.

But I'm stumped on the oil temp sending unit - should I put it in the oil pan?

You want the coolant temp sensor in the upper hose. You want readings of how hot the coolant is coming out of the motor, not how cool it is going in.
I've seen people use a "T" on the filter housing for oil temp and pressure. I'm sure in the pan will be fine as well, just make sure it's low enough so that it's always submerged in oil.

[AS240]

Originally Posted by turbob16ef

I know you said you check wheel/strut. How bout wheel/lower control arm? Or possibly the U-joints?

^Exactly what I was going to say.
If you don't have your traction rods adjusted properly, the inner rim can rub the RLCA. Look for rubbing marks on both sides of the control arm.

[turbob16ef]

My wheels ended up self notching the control arms. Never heard any grinding. Only grinded when it was squatting, so couldn't hear it over everything else.

[boink]

Thanks fellas.
That might make sense, i just checked through my spokes and can see they are all the way in. (it did this before i did arms and rods, so i assume all the way in is = to stock?)

Tomorrow i will adjust them out and hopefully this fixes it.
Ill report back.
Cheers!

[turbob16ef]

You have adjustable lower control arms? If they are, more than likely tube. Shouldn't have any clearance issues with those I would think, but not sure bc I have stockers.

[boink]

No adjustable lower control arms.
Just traction rods that aren't set up correctly apparently.

[turbob16ef]

Ok, gotcha. 3am must be confusing me. Lol.

[Black R]

Originally Posted by AS240

You want the coolant temp sensor in the upper hose. You want readings of how hot the coolant is coming out of the motor, not how cool it is going in.
I've seen people use a "T" on the filter housing for oil temp and pressure. I'm sure in the pan will be fine as well, just make sure it's low enough so that it's always submerged in oil.

Thanks, but isn't the water coming out of the motor always the same temp?

[Chronicle]

Originally Posted by Black R

Thanks, but isn't the water coming out of the motor always the same temp?

Think about it this way. If the engine overheats, where is the coolant going to be at its hottest point? at the bottom of the radiator, where it enters the engine, or where the coolant leaves the engine? You want that sensor as close to the upper water neck as possible so you can detect a possible overheat as soon as you can.

[Black R]

I was thinking more along the lines of monitoring whether the radiator is doing it's job.

And the fact that the factory dummy temp probe checks the hot water coming out of the motor.

That way I'm monitoring both locations.

Actually, maybe I'll probe both and compare.

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by Black R

^ thanks.





Where are you guys tapping in the sending units for your gauges?

I have oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp...

The oil pressure one I'm using the Lexus long hollow banjo bolt.
The water temp one I'm putting in the lower rad hose.

But I'm stumped on the oil temp sending unit - should I put it in the oil pan?

For oil pressure you could have used the port on the side of the block near the oil pressure/knock sensor. Its blocked by an allen key plug (forgot the term currently). It's used to determine oil pressure using a mechanical oil pressure unit.

[Mr. Phonso]

^ yeppp thats what I did! I used the drift motion steel braided line so I could mount my sender to a remote location.

[Black R]

Originally Posted by ATLspeed

For oil pressure you could have used the port on the side of the block near the oil pressure/knock sensor. Its blocked by an allen key plug (forgot the term currently). It's used to determine oil pressure using a mechanical oil pressure unit.

Got a pic?

Idk shit about these motors.

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by Black R

Got a pic?

Idk shit about these motors.

2JZGTE Block question - my.IS - Lexus IS Forum