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Old 04-11-2014, 05:18 PM   #3781
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The eBay mounts are also notorious for ripping apart, bottom line is you get what you pay for.
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:58 PM   #3782
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The eBay mounts are also notorious for ripping apart, bottom line is you get what you pay for.
Wow! Notorious. Proof?
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:16 PM   #3783
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Just a few local cars, most make 7-1000whp but still should be no excuse

I ordered a set of the eBay mounts, after my buddys had some problems 2 torn sets and one that ripped the motor mount bolt threw the bracket they never went in the car, had a set of excessives which worked fine and where cheap, but after awhile I wanted to move the motor further down and wanted to get rid of the slot style bracket so went with a set a freeds, which in my opinion are the best option on the market, plus made in the good ol USA
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:22 AM   #3784
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When i look on the Freed website it doesnt distinguish whether the mounts are for S13 or S14, it just says 89-98.

When you look at the Xcessive website they have options for both chassis'. Any reason for this?
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Old 04-12-2014, 02:27 PM   #3785
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I just called freed because the website was down at the time I ordered,in my car(s14) xcessive fit perfect but have heard of problems in the s13,
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Old 04-12-2014, 03:47 PM   #3786
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so you've had Xcessive and Freed mounts? which made the engine sit lower? im looking for as much engine to hood clearance as i can get without having to modify my mounts/brackets. im going to be using Cusco solid mounts.
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Old 04-12-2014, 08:26 PM   #3787
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Just throwing this out there if anyone's interested. I have a set of get nuts lab mounts. $275 shipped.


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Old 04-12-2014, 10:17 PM   #3788
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I have xcessive. any lower and it would be dangerously close to the steering rack!
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:47 PM   #3789
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so you've had Xcessive and Freed mounts? which made the engine sit lower? im looking for as much engine to hood clearance as i can get without having to modify my mounts/brackets. im going to be using Cusco solid mounts.
Both sit about the same, only reason for the switch was I didn't like the fact that the excessive where slotted so you could move the motor , where the freeds are fixed
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Old 04-13-2014, 12:18 PM   #3790
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got the 1j running today! all thats left is really the alternator wiring and a few little odds and ends.

anyone got some insight on the alternator wiring? i have the oval shaped 3 wire aristo plug, and the 240sx plug is a 2 wire? i know i need the large power wire connected to the nut, and a ground on the case. but im having trouble figuring out which wires need spliced into the 240sx plug. and i separated it from the original loom and i cant remember but i think the other end plugs into the fuse box via an 6 or 8 pin connector? any help greatly appreciated. help me drive my car this week lol
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Old 04-13-2014, 03:02 PM   #3791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo-2ns View Post
Both sit about the same, only reason for the switch was I didn't like the fact that the excessive where slotted so you could move the motor , where the freeds are fixed
Oh ok, i'll probably end up getting the Xcessive brackets since they are a bit cheaper if the slots are the only real difference between the two.

Thanks for the info man!
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Old 04-13-2014, 03:29 PM   #3792
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Both sit about the same, only reason for the switch was I didn't like the fact that the excessive where slotted so you could move the motor , where the freeds are fixed
I actually like the slots. If everything is torqued down properly its not like its going to move
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Old 04-13-2014, 03:40 PM   #3793
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My thoughts exactly.
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:37 AM   #3794
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My complaint with the slits was in my car one bolt was at the back of one slit and at the front of the other so there wasn't much adjustment tha could be made, making the slits pretty much useless
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:45 AM   #3795
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Quote:
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My complaint with the slits was in my car one bolt was at the back of one slit and at the front of the other so there wasn't much adjustment tha could be made, making the slits pretty much useless

Same here and my trans bracket was no where near lining up
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:49 PM   #3796
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Have no experance with their trans bracket since I use a Chevy automatic, had to build my own, but I think for $35 freed sent me the cnc brackets that mount to the car a cnc bracket for the trans and a bend to connect the pices, little cut and some welding and it all worked out well
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:23 PM   #3797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo-2ns View Post
My complaint with the slits was in my car one bolt was at the back of one slit and at the front of the other so there wasn't much adjustment tha could be made, making the slits pretty much useless
I've heard of this before and what it boiled down to was people having the wrong set of brackets. Apparently with the Xcessive brackets you have to specify between S13 and S14.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:46 PM   #3798
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The brackets where originally in my s14 and are now in my roommates s13 sit the exact same way, I have heard of some people having problems in the s13 that the angles where off
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:51 PM   #3799
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Im in a predicament and need some guidance....

Killed a turbo or two this weekend for sure, TON of oil in the IC piping.... Car started missing as I was getting back to the pits, did a compression test and leakdown test, #2 and #4 are nearly dead.... Im thinking either blown headgasket or bent valves from turbo shrapnel entering the combustion chamber...

Pulled oil filter and strained oil, filter caught a TINY bit of silver chunks but nothing too horrible....

Anyways im thinking im just going to run a single turbo setup...
I have a stock JDM 2jz ecu,

I was thinking a gt35 turbo, but I will not have money for standalone right off the bat, can I run the gt35 on extremely low boost with the stock ECU and stock injectors for the time being?

If not, is there any decent ROM tune companies for the jdm 2j ecu I could use/ what injectors would be advisible? I just need a poke in the right direction. Id be fine with stock or near stock power I just don't want to keep fucking with the stock twins.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:24 PM   #3800
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When my stock twins blew up i went single and did a Treadstone Cast manifold, Precision 6265 and a tial wastegate, I was on stock ecu with a SAFC (Which can be had very cheap) Although i was also on 550cc injectors, car ran pretty good and was plenty.
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:07 PM   #3801
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Ok so basically, I could run a stock ECU with a piggyback (think that's what the name is?) SAFC setup and just have the SAFC tuned properly for the setup instead of running a ROM tuned ECU?

I just want something I can reliably beat on until I can afford to go standalone.
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:50 PM   #3802
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Yeap that would work. And to be honest if you have a decent tuner with a SAFC the car will run pretty damn well, especially if you only have an average tuner tune your standalone. I liked the simplicity of the SAFC setup.
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:56 PM   #3803
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Ive heard so many horror stories and bad things about the SAFC's.... Anyone else have any experience with them?
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:39 PM   #3804
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If they are tuned well and you dont go above 550cc injectors you should be fine. i here that they get kinda "lost" after that.
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Old 04-15-2014, 11:53 AM   #3805
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got the 1j running today! all thats left is really the alternator wiring and a few little odds and ends.

anyone got some insight on the alternator wiring? i have the oval shaped 3 wire aristo plug, and the 240sx plug is a 2 wire? i know i need the large power wire connected to the nut, and a ground on the case. but im having trouble figuring out which wires need spliced into the 240sx plug. and i separated it from the original loom and i cant remember but i think the other end plugs into the fuse box via an 6 or 8 pin connector? any help greatly appreciated. help me drive my car this week lol
any help out there zilvians??
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:36 PM   #3806
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Ive heard so many horror stories and bad things about the SAFC's.... Anyone else have any experience with them?

I had a 95 supra that I street tuned on a safc 2 with a zeitronix wideband. It was on stock 550cc injectors and a SpP61 turbo and it put down 468whp through a stock automatic. It was tuned very safe (mid to low 11's in boost) and ran like that for about 7 years until I sold it.
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:24 PM   #3807
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Ive heard so many horror stories and bad things about the SAFC's.... Anyone else have any experience with them?
I use one and never had a problem. Used it with my 440's w/ water-meth and 550's w/ water-meth.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:28 PM   #3808
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Awesome, thanks guys!

Pulled the motor apart today, no signs of a blown HG, or bent valves.... Thinking possible ring lands? Cylinderwalls have perfect crosshatching still on them, no scoring at all
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:26 AM   #3809
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weeeelp my trans (r154) is on its way out. 1st gear pops out if I go WOT. So now I'm going to be either looking to get a v160/161, rebuilt r154 (not sure if it will still be safe over 650-750tq, or one of the many varieties of trans swaps (z32/z33, bmw getrag, t56).

Getting a rebuilt r154 would be the most logical and easiest but my mind is really set on the v160. But I may go with one of the different trans to see how they fair up to give feedback to the community.

*For those that are curious as far as my trans set up and abuse
- Couple drift events/Daily driven/raced
- RedLine trans fluid
- HP/TQ ranged from 375-450
- ACT HD clutch/pp
- DriftMotion flywheel
- Beech Short shifter
- Aluminum driveshaft
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:40 AM   #3810
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weeeelp my trans (r154) is on its way out. 1st gear pops out if I go WOT. So now I'm going to be either looking to get a v160/161, rebuilt r154 (not sure if it will still be safe over 650-750tq, or one of the many varieties of trans swaps (z32/z33, bmw getrag, t56).

Getting a rebuilt r154 would be the most logical and easiest but my mind is really set on the v160. But I may go with one of the different trans to see how they fair up to give feedback to the community.

*For those that are curious as far as my trans set up and abuse
- Couple drift events/Daily driven/raced
- RedLine trans fluid
- HP/TQ ranged from 375-450
- ACT HD clutch/pp
- DriftMotion flywheel
- Beech Short shifter
- Aluminum driveshaft
Yeah, the same sort of problems kept happening to me with my r154 and it played a part in why I went v160. I really love the v160 paired with the Q45 rear end but thinking back on it I probably could have done a CD009 350z transmission for a little more than half of what I paid for the v160 conversion.

Does anybody know the gear ratio's for the CD009? I will look them up, I just want to see how it compares to the v160.
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