Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Origin]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

Already answered, in detail. Pay attention.

And since I asked three times, obviously it didn't work. That is on there like glue. Screwdrivers just damage the thing, using the engine bolts makes a big popping noise, and the front is just welded on there. Wtf.

[doomviillain]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

Already answered, in detail. Pay attention.



Same.

could u just tell me yes or no? really simple question, links?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Origin

I have metal shavings in my oil pan, there are some bigger about half a cm, but most are sand sized shavings, there are some markings on the inside of the engine but not much.

What does this necessarily mean? Spun bearings are something worse?

Hard to say without pictures. Could be anything really.

Originally Posted by Origin

My God, how hard can it be to remove the main oil pan. Any have any tips? Screwdrivers aren't working.

1. Take out the 2 little nuts that hold the rear main seal on.
2. Don't forget to take the bolts out that hold the front on that are up near the oil pickup
3. Take the two lower bolts that hold the tranny to the engine out. Then if you look at the back of the pan you can screw those bolts up into the pan and they will bottom out against the engine block itself. Keep screwing them in until it peals the pan off. Or stick a screwdriver in there and prey against the engine block/pan itself. I like the bolt method
4. Don't forget step 1.

Originally Posted by Renelovesnike

Best/easyest way of getting all that grime/road dirt off the subframe once its out?

Degreaser, then take it to the local car wash and use the presusre washer on it.

Originally Posted by track_warrior

guys i have a s14 with a sunroof and i want to remove it. is it possible to remove the sunroof rails and motor and just leave the glass have it tinted and buy a non s14 headliner + dome light?? I was thinking about just welding a piece and having it painted but this could be easier and i would get the necessary head room.

You need a sunroof delete panel, which will need to be welded in, or you can check to see if Kognition makes CF patch panels.

Originally Posted by DUIShenanigans

Does anyone know off the top of their head what the measurements between the front frame rails are on a 1996 Silvia S14?

Check FSM

Originally Posted by doomviillain

could u just tell me yes or no? really simple question, links?

He said 'the same' to you. The top quote was to Origin.

[Wake]

Thank you cody, I got a headache.

[Prime]

Originally Posted by Origin

And since I asked three times, obviously it didn't work. That is on there like glue. Screwdrivers just damage the thing, using the engine bolts makes a big popping noise, and the front is just welded on there. Wtf.

I've had success with a razor blade. It's a lot of work, but if you score the parting line at a corner several times, you'll eventually break through to the other side. Then just drag the line. I use the big disposable snap-off blades in the plastic handles.

[Origin]

Originally Posted by codyace

Hard to say without pictures. Could be anything really.



1. Take out the 2 little nuts that hold the rear main seal on.
2. Don't forget to take the bolts out that hold the front on that are up near the oil pickup
3. Take the two lower bolts that hold the tranny to the engine out. Then if you look at the back of the pan you can screw those bolts up into the pan and they will bottom out against the engine block itself. Keep screwing them in until it peals the pan off. Or stick a screwdriver in there and prey against the engine block/pan itself. I like the bolt method
4. Don't forget step 1.

I did the bolt method, damn thing made a lot of popping noises and I got scared and backed it off.

[Origin]

wow, the FSM and people here failed to tell me that there is 4 fucking bolts on the inside. What the shit.

Anyway, after cracking my main oil pan, There is no bolts holding it in, for the love of God WHY won't it come off? Soemthing near the fly wheel??

[EjMalernee]

Originally Posted by Origin

wow, the FSM and people here failed to tell me that there is 4 fucking bolts on the inside. What the shit.

Anyway, after cracking my main oil pan, There is no bolts holding it in, for the love of God WHY won't it come off? Soemthing near the fly wheel??

Maybe RTV or what ever was used ti seal it so the oil doesn't come out.

Its going to make some noise coming off. I work for the Air Force fixing jet engines. When we take off the outer ducts, we use push screws and it makes a big popping noise. That normaly signifies that the duct is loose and ready to get pulled off.

Hope it helps some if any. lol

[Origin]

It cracked the pan. That was the noise I assume.

[Origin]

Originally Posted by codyace

Hard to say without pictures. Could be anything really.

They are copper color...

[lg54]

just changed my subframe bushings to SPL solids, installed new poly bushings at the knuckles etc. and have adjustable arms at the back. I am still getting wheel hop. what should i check?

alignment? diff bushings? coil over stiffness? does ride height affect it?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Origin

wow, the FSM and people here failed to tell me that there is 4 fucking bolts on the inside. What the shit.

Anyway, after cracking my main oil pan, There is no bolts holding it in, for the love of God WHY won't it come off? Soemthing near the fly wheel??

Um "2. Don't forget to take the bolts out that hold the front on that are up near the oil pickup" I did up there on the top. See I tried to help! hehe
...I do have a spare upper pan if you need one too PM me if you're interested.

Originally Posted by Origin

They are copper color...

Could be anything really, thrust bearing stuff maybe

[Origin]

Well there is also bits of grey in there. Blurry pictures in a minute.




No pictures of the grey. Just grey metal shreds in the shape of a valve seal (same curvature) about the same size slightly bigger. It isn't littered with either of these sizes, mostly sand-sized pieces. But they are still there.

[doomviillain]

Originally Posted by codyace

He said 'the same' to you. The top quote was to Origin.

fail on my part. reading the 2 was a bit misleading to me. thanks wakeBHR for answering my question

[initial don]

I searched and searched this thread but couldnt find similar situations.
SO, I have an s13. Engine cranks but wont turn.
It sounds like its JUST about to turn but never does.
Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, cap and rotor, spark plugs.
spark plug wires still good.
Same thing happens, cranks but doesnt turn over.
What else can it be ??
Thanks

[Prime]

Originally Posted by initial don

I searched and searched this thread but couldnt find similar situations.
SO, I have an s13. Engine cranks but wont turn.
It sounds like its JUST about to turn but never does.
Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, cap and rotor, spark plugs.
spark plug wires still good.
Same thing happens, cranks but doesnt turn over.
What else can it be ??
Thanks

Pump fuse, bad coil, bad distributor, distributor not set properly, bad injectors, plugs wires going to wrong plugs, blown headgasket.... lots of things. Start simple, diagnose before just throwing parts at it.

[initial don]

Originally Posted by Prime

Pump fuse, bad coil, bad distributor, distributor not set properly, bad injectors, plugs wires going to wrong plugs, blown headgasket.... lots of things. Start simple, diagnose before just throwing parts at it.

its not the fuse, or improper placement of anything.
i was thinking distributor or coil but wasnt too sure.
gonna check for a blown gasket tomorrow, THANKS.

[obsolete]

is the A/C drier on the sr20 and KA the same? kouki s14 specifically.

[lg54]

Originally Posted by lg54

just changed my subframe bushings to SPL solids, installed new poly bushings at the knuckles etc. and have adjustable arms at the back. I am still getting wheel hop. what should i check?

alignment? diff bushings? coil over stiffness? does ride height affect it?

help pleasee

[PNgo12]

Okay so I'm a little confused here.. Earlier I was driving and I got to where I needed to be shut the car off and came back about 10 minutes later only to start the car and nothing at all. No spark no nothing, as if the battery died. But before all that the battery was fine, it's new too but I got a jump start and it started right up. On the drive home I noticed the radio was dead, nothing was on and there was no power to it. When I insert my key the time on my cluster shuts off, I turn the key and the time disappears like it's a dead battery. I've been charging the battery for about an hour now and on the meter it didn't even show that it was dead, and the charge is almost full too, I took out the charger and the car is still dead. I tested the battery with a multimeter and it showed 13v so I have no clue really whats the problem? Is it as simple as the battery being dead?

[machuca212]

quick question would the catco 3in high flow cat on enjuku racing directly fit the ka?

[Wake]

Originally Posted by PNgo12

Okay so I'm a little confused here.. Earlier I was driving and I got to where I needed to be shut the car off and came back about 10 minutes later only to start the car and nothing at all. No spark no nothing, as if the battery died. But before all that the battery was fine, it's new too but I got a jump start and it started right up. On the drive home I noticed the radio was dead, nothing was on and there was no power to it. When I insert my key the time on my cluster shuts off, I turn the key and the time disappears like it's a dead battery. I've been charging the battery for about an hour now and on the meter it didn't even show that it was dead, and the charge is almost full too, I took out the charger and the car is still dead. I tested the battery with a multimeter and it showed 13v so I have no clue really whats the problem? Is it as simple as the battery being dead?

Yes dead battery.

Originally Posted by machuca212

quick question would the catco 3in high flow cat on enjuku racing directly fit the ka?

No, Unless you already have a 3inch dp and exhaust.

[s13 loverr]

Ok so, I was wanting to convert my MAF to a MAP setup and found some cheaper ways to do so.

The HKS VPC would allow me to do this because it fools the ECU so you only replace the MAF without replacing the ECU, but would it matter if I had a redtop edition of the HKS pressure controller if I have a blacktop sr20?

Then would the APEXI S-AFC allow me to do the same thing as above? To my understanding it piggybacks to be able to have a MAP like setup, but I am not entirely sure.

I really just want to be able to have a good cold start up and for the car to be able to run properly when it is cold.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by obsolete

is the A/C drier on the sr20 and KA the same? kouki s14 specifically.

mmm unsure really. They should be. What are you looking to hook up all togehter (line wise) You do know SR compressor won't work in KA chassis with the lines.

FWIW: I offer KA to SR convesion kits tat allow you to use KA compressor on SR20.

Originally Posted by machuca212

quick question would the catco 3in high flow cat on enjuku racing directly fit the ka?

Yes

Originally Posted by s13 loverr

Ok so, I was wanting to convert my MAF to a MAP setup and found some cheaper ways to do so.
...
I really just want to be able to have a good cold start up and for the car to be able to run properly when it is cold.

MAP vs MAF isn't going to determine cold start or low temp driveability at all. A proper rom tune will work perfectly for you, muchbetter than 2 bandaids trying to work in tandem.

[soreballz]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

No, Unless you already have a 3inch dp and exhaust.

Why not? 3" exhausts bolt to the stock cat, and the flanges of the stock cat are the same on both sides (except for the way they're clocked), thus, a 3" exhaust would bolt to the stock downpipe, THUS, the 3" Catco would work fine, even with a stock DP and catback. Although, a 3" cat with stock everything else would be silly, but I doubt that's the case here.

[Wake]

I see your point. But I read it as stock everything else.

[S14DB]

3" Cat flanges may be bigger than the stock(even some 2.5" exhaust) flanges. I have seen some leak around the flange bolt holes. You may have to play with gasket sizing.

[hartig]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

isnt it the same for almost all the nissan motors?

you need the one to the gauge(1 wire) or ECU (2 wire)?

i need the one to the ecu.. when i looked it up people were saying there are all sorts of different cts' for the sr..?

[terrence]

What is this line for/where does it go?

[blksylv]

hey quick question, im tryin to remove my power steering return hardline that runs in front of my power steering rack on my s14 and i was wondering if all thats holding it were the brackets that are on each side?