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Old 04-28-2019, 08:45 PM   #2941
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Originally Posted by GabeS14 View Post
I really love the Honda Fit teal blue/green, (raspberry metallic?)every time I see it in person, I am amazed at how beautiful that color is, pictures never do it justice seriously doesn't show the depth and brightness of the color. For my M3 I am doing techno violet, but I secretly want to paint it Honda fit teal lol
Reminds me a bit of this color on the Nissan Versa Note

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Old 04-29-2019, 10:14 PM   #2942
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This was posted a long time ago (page 30). Guy I grew up with had an S4 this color paint code is LY1C. Non metallic, looks great in all light.
I'm definitely going to have to look at a paint chip for this color. I know computer monitors show colors inaccurately but in some pictures, it's such a nice bright yellow, and in others, it's so pale.
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Old 04-29-2019, 10:15 PM   #2943
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the Ford Puma Millennium Editions that came in yellow were pretty yellow
Yes, they are. Not quite the yellow I'm looking for, though.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:22 PM   #2944
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Shot in the dark here. Got a shell recently, has this color single stage on it. Looks like an extremely dark grey, maybe black, with bronze-like metallic/pearl in it. Can anyone get a close guess? Need to get some Kouki skirts matched

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Old 12-12-2019, 05:16 AM   #2945
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Love that flake
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Old 03-19-2020, 12:08 PM   #2946
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Stuck inside with all the health issues going around so I splashed some paint on my fenders. B119 British racing green

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Old 08-02-2020, 07:14 AM   #2947
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How long do you guys usually wait for your paint to cure before re-installing your trim/aero? I just got my car back from paint last Thursday and forgot to ask the painter when I was picking it up. In the past I've always done it right away, but have always gotten a bit of pull off from any double sided tape that I use so I want to do it right this time and avoid that issue.
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I have a pretty badass neon.
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Old 08-02-2020, 07:51 AM   #2948
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30 days, the paint is fully cured (that's why they tell you not to wax it for a month when you get it back from a bodyshop)
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Old 08-02-2020, 08:22 AM   #2949
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30 days, the paint is fully cured (that's why they tell you not to wax it for a month when you get it back from a bodyshop)
Good deal, thanks for the info. The suspense is going to kill me haha. At least there's plenty of things for me to tinker with on the mechanical side while I wait.
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I have a pretty badass neon.
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Old 08-02-2020, 09:16 AM   #2950
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i mean, you can assemble it before then, but that's the max cure time. you can give it a few days, and you should be fine as long as the paint job was prepped correctly. just be careful and take your time.
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Old 12-02-2020, 02:14 PM   #2951
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Anyone have an idea on this paint? Or anything close to it? Thanks in advance.

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Old 12-02-2020, 05:00 PM   #2952
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Anyone have an idea on this paint? Or anything close to it? Thanks in advance.
100% not an expert, but reminds me of the Infinity Smoky Quartz (that color changes a lot in different light):

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Old 12-02-2020, 05:10 PM   #2953
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100% not an expert, but reminds me of the Infinity Smoky Quartz (that color changes a lot in different light):



Close enough for me, thanks!

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Old 12-12-2020, 11:21 AM   #2954
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"my fender is a different color"

"Yeah, but it's close enough.."
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Old 12-13-2020, 04:22 AM   #2955
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"my fender is a different color"

"Yeah, but it's close enough.."
I'm pretty sure he wasn't trying to match an existing panel...
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Old 12-13-2020, 09:44 AM   #2956
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I'm pretty sure he wasn't trying to match an existing panel...
sarcasm never does translate well over text, I guess.

I'm a repair tech in the collision industry, so close enough isn't something we get to say to customers very often. It just made me smile a little bit thinking about that scenario.

Back on topic though...

This color came into the shop a few weeks ago, I'm always a fan of subtle cars with a little bit of flair. Galactic Aqua Mica, Paint code 221. It's hard finding a good photo of it, it's a tough color to capture.
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Old 12-13-2020, 09:53 AM   #2957
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sarcasm never does translate well over text, I guess.

I'm a repair tech in the collision industry, so close enough isn't something we get to say to customers very often. It just made me smile a little bit thinking about that scenario.
Completely understandable in that scenario. lol

I have nightmares over the thought of paint matching. I've been thinking of picking up some new rear valances, but apparently the PO of my car went with a custom black, so I'm not even sure how that would go.
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Old 12-13-2020, 10:01 AM   #2958
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Completely understandable in that scenario. lol

I have nightmares over the thought of paint matching. I've been thinking of picking up some new rear valances, but apparently the PO of my car went with a custom black, so I'm not even sure how that would go.

I've done paint matching for years, you develop and eye for it over time, but some of it depends on how well your eyes are with color. Even subtle color blindness with certain hues can really make things difficult.

Most paint jobbers (paint suppliers) will have a spectrophotometer, so you can take it to them and see what it comes up with. If the body shop is large enough they will have on already there. Unless the color had some crazy flake or pearl thrown into it, odds are that "custom black" is just something the painter knew off the top of his head. 8555 GM black, or 202 Toyota (which coincidently is almost exactly like M. Benz black) are two that are used so often when guys want black that I wouldn't be surprised if that what it would up being.

Another color that just left our shop, Still Night Blue Pearl. Almost like the blue the latest gen civics come in, but with more purple in it. Paint code B575P.
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Old 12-13-2020, 10:35 AM   #2959
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This one is a BEAUTY. Anyone help with a paint code or direction?

Would love to know this as well.
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Old 12-13-2020, 02:58 PM   #2960
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its not a dead on match, but bmw's mojave brown metallic is close (a bit red compared to that s14's green tones. paint code is 331.

edit, did some more digging. If you're looking for a brown with more green in it, try nissans CS3. they used it on early 2000's altimas .
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Old 12-13-2020, 03:08 PM   #2961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnsauto View Post
Most paint jobbers (paint suppliers) will have a spectrophotometer, so you can take it to them and see what it comes up with. If the body shop is large enough they will have on already there. Unless the color had some crazy flake or pearl thrown into it, odds are that "custom black" is just something the painter knew off the top of his head. 8555 GM black, or 202 Toyota (which coincidently is almost exactly like M. Benz black) are two that are used so often when guys want black that I wouldn't be surprised if that what it would up being.
This is good to know.

I tried to get the paint code from the shop that painted my car, but the guy who painted it told me "it wasn't anything from an existing paint code". As for the paint it just looks like a deep gloss black.
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Old 01-03-2021, 02:34 PM   #2962
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Subaru's British Racing Green on the new 86s was a color was just really nice to stare at lol



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Old 03-24-2022, 11:05 AM   #2963
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Does anyone in this thread have experience painting a Seibion carbon hood? Is any additional prep needed to keep the weave from showing through or can it just be scuffed and sprayed out of the box? They seem to be the only company that makes a decent OEM Silvia replica hood, but I hate the look of exposed carbon fiber so I would want to have it painted. Going the Seibon route would save me about $500 over sourcing an OEM metal hood, but I might just pony up the extra cash if the Seibon is going to take a lot of extra prep.
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I have a pretty badass neon.
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Old 03-24-2022, 12:45 PM   #2964
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This color came into the shop a few weeks ago, I'm always a fan of subtle cars with a little bit of flair. Galactic Aqua Mica, Paint code 221. It's hard finding a good photo of it, it's a tough color to capture.
When I finally repaint my TK3 I would love to be able to get this kind of effect from it without changing the hue/tint. This might be damn close.
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Old 05-13-2022, 12:12 AM   #2965
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s13 1993 Toyota S13 240SX Convertible

I made my Zilvia account on Feb '20 in search of the perfect s-chassis. Obviously, a perfect s-chassis doesn't exist, so I bought a pretty beat up one for $2.6k on Jan '21. I had taken it to a bodyshop in June '21 to be worked on as I'm still in school and I had no way to fix it up myself. After nearly a year of work, I have her back. My 1993 S13 Convertible, my first car. Originally painted Super White (326). I had it painted an OEM Toyota color, Quicksand (4V6), a color available on the 2018 TRD Pro Tacomas and 4-Runners. At the time of deciding the color, seeing a Tacoma in that color was so rare that i thought, "I need that". Not too cool now cuz the color is on any trim buuuut I decided to celebrate the site's "reopening" by showing you guys my labor of love for s-chassis.

Before:
https://imgur.com/gallery/pZVeghQ
After:
https://imgur.com/gallery/291V15r
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Old 05-13-2022, 10:17 AM   #2966
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I made my Zilvia account on Feb '20 in search of the perfect s-chassis. Obviously, a perfect s-chassis doesn't exist, so I bought a pretty beat up one for $2.6k on Jan '21. I had taken it to a bodyshop in June '21 to be worked on as I'm still in school and I had no way to fix it up myself. After nearly a year of work, I have her back. My 1993 S13 Convertible, my first car. Originally painted Super White (326). I had it painted an OEM Toyota color, Quicksand (4V6), a color available on the 2018 TRD Pro Tacomas and 4-Runners. At the time of deciding the color, seeing a Tacoma in that color was so rare that i thought, "I need that". Not too cool now cuz the color is on any trim buuuut I decided to celebrate the site's "reopening" by showing you guys my labor of love for s-chassis.

Before:


After:
Any side shots, man?
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Old 05-13-2022, 10:53 PM   #2967
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Any side shots, man?
gotta take some
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Old 05-14-2022, 06:03 AM   #2968
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Does anyone in this thread have experience painting a Seibion carbon hood? Is any additional prep needed to keep the weave from showing through or can it just be scuffed and sprayed out of the box? They seem to be the only company that makes a decent OEM Silvia replica hood, but I hate the look of exposed carbon fiber so I would want to have it painted. Going the Seibon route would save me about $500 over sourcing an OEM metal hood, but I might just pony up the extra cash if the Seibon is going to take a lot of extra prep.
I've seen it go both ways. Some hoods the weave is so pronounced that even after you paint it you can still see the ripples in the clear.

In those cases you basically need to block out the factory applied clearcoat (You can do this with a soft block* and 1000 grit) trying to get out as much of the weave pattern in the clear as you can, just don't go crazy enough to burn through. Depending on your results, you can prep it for basecoat (red scuff pad) or if it still has a lot of texture in it, you'll have to re-clear it, and then wet sand it all over again.

If you're doing it to save money, you'll be paying for it in sweat equity. Cheaper CF hoods have a ton of texture, and expensive ones don't, but that's one reason why they are expensive.

Edit: * As far as the soft block, I always recommend Meguiars E-7200 for any kind of wetsanding. They have the perfect amount of flex and are cheap enough anyone can get them.

Linky : https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-E720.../dp/B0009IQZ2K

Wet sanding tip - CHECK YOUR WORK AS YOU GO ALONG. 1000 grit can burn through clear faster than you think. Often take the sandpaper off your block, dip your block into your bucket of water, and use the edge of your sanding block to squeegee the area you're wet sanding. If you still see shiny dots, then you still have orange peel. Once you see a flat, uniform finish, all the orange peel has been removed. Just keep in mind that you don't always want a completely smooth, chip-foose-looking paint job, especially if you're trying to bring it back to a factory looking finish. The original paint has a certain amount of orange peel, and the trick is to sand/buff out enough of your excess orange peel to replicate the factory finish. Really good painters can match it by the way their gun/paint is set up, but those guys are few and far betweeen.
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Old 04-07-2023, 11:30 PM   #2969
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Quick question regarding a paint job.. So I'm getting my s13 hatch painted and I was told by the shop that they advise removing the rear quarter glass so that the paint can get the best adhesion. Otherwise, they say that there's a possibility the paint can chip from where the rear quarter glass trim meets the body of the car.

So my question is, for those of you who have gotten complete paint jobs, did you have the rear quarter glass removed? If not, how has the paint held up in the aforementioned area? TYIA!!
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Old 04-08-2023, 03:02 PM   #2970
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If you can fit it into your budget, have the glass removed. Taping off the glass will save you money, but over time, it gives the clear a perfect place to start pealing. With the glass removed, that line is moved further back behind where it's exposed to the elements. Glass removal and installation can be a little expensive, usually 130-180 per window by a reputable installer.
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