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Old 08-25-2007, 06:56 PM   #61
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I did sheet metal but it turned out wrong so I removed it. That is fiberglass, not solid filler so the weight difference is trivial at best and makes no difference. The sheet metal blocked certain holoes that were in close interval to the headlight cradle. The fiberglass was easily contoured and blended to work with that obstacle.



Destroyed squish???? Are you nuts? That was done by Nagoya Precision with a tried and proven CNC program. But yes this car is meant to go fast and maintain high RPM, Drag would be cool but I ma thinking more along the lines of Silver State Classic.

O that makes more sense about the fiberglass.


But usually with the squish/quench removed it will detriment the drivibility of the engine, and the ability to modulate the engine smoothly.
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Old 08-25-2007, 07:12 PM   #62
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O that makes more sense about the fiberglass.


But usually with the squish/quench removed it will detriment the drivibility of the engine, and the ability to modulate the engine smoothly.
Yeah, the glass seemed to be the way to go on that one
as far as squish it is ideal as I am not tuning for street drivability but pure power at top end. I am looking to run this car at 7500 plus RPM for extended periods of time. Since Races like the silver state classic are high speed races, I will need to be high in the RPM and Boost range (7500 and 1.4 - 1.8 Bar) for extended periods of time which kind of makes this mod ideal.

If this was going to be a highly modified street car I would agree with you and leave the squish area in, but this car will not be driven daily as the maintenance required for that would be extremely time consuming and kind of expensive plus the car will not be set up for that, should I decide to street it, I will just build another RB26 that is more suitable (something in the 600hp range) but 900 plus is not daily driver material on a RB26.
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:08 PM   #63
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nice build. i look forward to the outcome

not really diggin the flares, but maybe i'd just have to get used to it.
they dont really seem too functional to me idk
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:18 PM   #64
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nice build. i look forward to the outcome

not really diggin the flares, but maybe i'd just have to get used to it.
they dont really seem too functional to me idk
They are functional just not pretty. They will not be visible once the body kit is on. Japanese Inspection Laws do not allow me to cut the fenders for wide bodies and really wide rims, so the flares have to go to the apex of the wheel well to allow for suspension travel without the tires hitting the body.
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Old 08-25-2007, 09:06 PM   #65
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hmm, im kinda confused because we dont really have any laws like that in the US.

the way we do wide body here is cutting away the stock 1/4 panel and putting on over fenders, im sure you know that tho.

so can you not tuck wheels into the fender?
more pics would be great

EDIT: i think i get it. you just flared the stock sheet metal straight out?
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Old 08-25-2007, 09:20 PM   #66
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hmm, im kinda confused because we dont really have any laws like that in the US.

the way we do wide body here is cutting away the stock 1/4 panel and putting on over fenders, im sure you know that tho.

so can you not tuck wheels into the fender?
more pics would be great

EDIT: i think i get it. you just flared the stock sheet metal straight out?
Let me break it down but yeah you are almost on track.

Cutting away the quarter panel here in Japan is considered to be negatively effecting the structural integrity of the vehicle. so in order to pass the inspection when I go to re register it I need to have the quarter panels on. Since I am going to legalize it with the engine and everything else, I am trying not to cause a failure on trivial stuff.

The Stock sheet metal is flared straight out and that is it so you are on the nose on that one.

Cool laws like being allowed to cut the quarter panel are cool in the states, but I get to legalize a car with a 900 plus HP RB26DETT in it which is not so doable in the states lol, so I'll trade ugly quarters sitting under a widebody for a fully legal S15 with RB26 (I think it might be an even trade but I am not sure as of yet).

I want to use a super wide tire in the back (like a 315 or more if possible) so I needed to wide body it to accomodate the necessary wheel width.

More pics will come soon. Once I get back and get back to work, I will put alot more pictures.
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Old 08-25-2007, 09:58 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CursedGTR View Post
Yeah, the glass seemed to be the way to go on that one
as far as squish it is ideal as I am not tuning for street drivability but pure power at top end. I am looking to run this car at 7500 plus RPM for extended periods of time. Since Races like the silver state classic are high speed races, I will need to be high in the RPM and Boost range (7500 and 1.4 - 1.8 Bar) for extended periods of time which kind of makes this mod ideal.

If this was going to be a highly modified street car I would agree with you and leave the squish area in, but this car will not be driven daily as the maintenance required for that would be extremely time consuming and kind of expensive plus the car will not be set up for that, should I decide to street it, I will just build another RB26 that is more suitable (something in the 600hp range) but 900 plus is not daily driver material on a RB26.


O. I thought this was going to be a street car.

I have also allways wanted to do the silver state classic. What kind of cage are you going to fabricate for that?

Good build.
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Old 08-25-2007, 10:07 PM   #68
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Old 08-25-2007, 10:07 PM   #69
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O. I thought this was going to be a street car.

I have also allways wanted to do the silver state classic. What kind of cage are you going to fabricate for that?

Good build.
Dunno, I am going to roll with the Safety 21 8 Point for a while get things tuned and make sure I am good to go, the cage will be reapproached once I get back to the States with it and am ready to run (current cage is mainly for prevention of chasis twist not really focused on safety with this one). Mainly because, there are alot of reputable shops in the states that will do it for a decent price and I will be able to be there and make sure things are done how I want them. I would not have that ability here as I would have to ship it to Mainland. Being a hands on type of guy, that would not be very cool with me.
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Old 08-26-2007, 05:02 AM   #70
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Oh Duh You are talking about what it looked like when Stock Garage had it. It was a really nice car back then.

Then Michiya got his hands on it and voila!!! EL POS Express.
ouch so Michiya was the last person to touch the car eh? I remember from what Netrat was telling me, it took him almost 8 months to get his RB25 tranny mated to his SR from Michiya. He seems like a really cool guy to get parts from but thats it. Work from him is like getting your teeth pulled with a pair of tweezers.
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Old 08-26-2007, 12:23 PM   #71
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okay, if the delorean in back to the future was a time machine, i think your car is going to be a strait up speed demon sex machine.

and thats really cool that you are going to do the silver state classic, some asshole who has an Pizza place won it in his corvette one year he also has a f50 ferrarri, he is a stuck up pompus prick.
good luck with the build and with the race. lookin forward to new pics.
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:47 PM   #72
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20hrs a week with wife and kids and full time job? thats a lot of spare time a week dedicated to car. i think i will be lucky to have 10hrs to my car when i start working 40-60hrs a week.
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Old 09-02-2007, 06:43 AM   #73
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update

Finally got back to work in the past few days. Did not have a camera for a while so some pics do not have progress just end result.
Summary of owrk completed.
- Cut front of frame rails to allow for recession of 5 core interccoler so that it fits behind the bumper without cutting the crap out of it.
- Welded end plates onto the frame rails and grinded, filled and primed them.
- Mocked up intercooler to determine proper measurements for some brackets and measured it all out.
- finished sanding the car with 400 grit and layed new primer coat (will sand with 600 grit int he next couple of days)
- Removed vertical supports in the core support to allow for fans, radiator and intercooler to fit in as small a place possible.

Work Pending (next 7-10 days) -
- Weld new mounting bungs onto intercooler bottom side and top side
- Make cutom headlight brackets
- Vent the front bumper to get as much airflow as possible.
- Put Engine in the Chasis and determine the routing of the intercooler piping (only so I can cut holes before paint).
- determine radiator placement (if it does not fit how I want it to, it is going in the trunk).
- Make intercooler mounting brackets.
- change subframe bushings
- Reinforce Subframe.


Picture of Chasis BEFORE Cutting Frame Rails

Picture of Chasis AFTER cutting Frame Rails and removing vertical beams in Core Support.



Mocking up the intercooler



Checking to make sure the bumper will fit

The proposed mounting location for the top Intercooler mounts (the majority of weight will be supported by the bottom mounts).


The Bottom Interccoler mount is going to tie into the fron subframe (the one that holds the tension rods and the radiator) Here are some pictures of the beginnings of figuring out how to do it. I think I got the idea that I want to use so I am heading to a shop to see about getting the mounts made (Hoefully one piece Billet dealies) and some bungs welded to the bottom in the necessary places to make it work.



The aluminum squares were being use to figure out how thick a bracket would have to be to become flush. That way from there I know how thick to make the bracket in order to make it meet up with the bung on the intercooler and merry up nice and securely. I am very sure the end product will look very professional and be reliable and functional as a mount.

The beginings of what is to become a collection of suspension pieces (HKS Hyper Drag Coilovers) Not so good for Highspeed stuff but great for drag racing. Figure I will have to get a different set when it comes time to do other things with the car.

Last edited by CursedGTR; 09-02-2007 at 06:47 AM.. Reason: Spelling Errors
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Old 09-02-2007, 06:53 AM   #74
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cool shit, keep us posted with new pics.
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Old 09-02-2007, 08:10 AM   #75
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Old 09-02-2007, 08:10 AM   #76
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ahh so fucking jealous.
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Old 09-02-2007, 02:33 PM   #77
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Killer build keep us posted
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Old 09-02-2007, 04:51 PM   #78
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is that a border intercooler?
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Old 09-02-2007, 05:15 PM   #79
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is that a border intercooler?
No, it is a Greddy 5 Core usually used on a GTR with big twins. The intercooler is 160mm thick and has twin 80mm inlets with a single 100mm inlet.
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Old 09-02-2007, 06:01 PM   #80
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O shit.


Thats a huge bitch
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Old 09-02-2007, 09:39 PM   #81
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Thats a huge sumbitch of an intercooler LOL.

Nice build man. Good to see stuff done right.
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:50 AM   #82
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Coming along very nicely!!!
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Old 09-03-2007, 04:54 AM   #83
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ehhhm. yeah flames and bondo on places to cheat reminds me of high school auto body and there were alot of ho rods. i dont feel it on a 240 tho. its just me. nice build keep it up.
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:16 AM   #84
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i dont feel it on a 240 tho.
I guess it's a good thing this isn't a 240sx then?
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:44 AM   #85
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sweet! just like Tokyo Drift

kidding... awesome build! definitely looking forward to more updates.
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Old 09-03-2007, 08:49 AM   #86
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Luv the build so far cant wait to see the finished results. Why didnt u just go single turbo?
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Old 09-03-2007, 10:18 AM   #87
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this is like feeding a hungry pack of wolves great pictures keep em coming lol
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Old 09-03-2007, 10:35 AM   #88
CursedGTR
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Originally Posted by leveloneae86 View Post
ehhhm. yeah flames and bondo on places to cheat reminds me of high school auto body and there were alot of ho rods. i dont feel it on a 240 tho. its just me. nice build keep it up.
Well if you learned anything you would know that fiber still needs to be smoothed out some how so it does not look like shit when painted. The bondo is about a micromillimeter thick as it only fills in the divits in the fiberglass. All the brown shit you were seeing in the engine bay was straight Resin, Powder and Glass, so High school Body shop I think Not.

Read the Title, Last I checked, there was no 240sx S15 nor did the 240 SX come right hand drive.

AND If you are talking about the frame rail work, uh grinded welds (read, we welded on end plates and then did the bondo work), smoothed out welds and using bondo to smooth ut the contour between the end plate and the surface of the core support a bit is about correct, unless you think I should weld on a bunch more material to accomplish this goal at which point I would say WASTE OF TIME as it would take days to get it right and would look horrid at best.
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Old 09-03-2007, 10:38 AM   #89
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Awesome build...keep up the good work.


I wish I can have a S15 :/
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Old 09-03-2007, 10:39 AM   #90
CursedGTR
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Luv the build so far cant wait to see the finished results. Why didnt u just go single turbo?
I had a T51R KAI Kit for it but it wasn't going to make enough power. The only people I have seen run big twins here in Japan were Wing Auto (S13/RB26/Twin 3240) and Zenitani (3037's/S13/RB26) There is of course the HKS 180 but that is a full race car. I figured what the hell??? The price was right for the kit and it was a bit unique too.
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