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Old 12-13-2018, 09:39 PM   #1021
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He is selling his vet setup, I believe he wants 13k.


Last I saw it was 15k. I already have every part I need, just want someone who knows what they’re doing to assemble it and do the minor necessary machine work
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Old 12-13-2018, 09:50 PM   #1022
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He wants 15k
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Old 12-14-2018, 09:33 AM   #1023
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He wants 15k
Says 13 on his ig but ok.
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Old 12-14-2018, 11:32 AM   #1024
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Says 13 on his ig but ok.
Who's selling, I want to see the motor?
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Old 12-14-2018, 11:33 AM   #1025
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:45 PM   #1026
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noob question, sorry in advance for my ignorance.

My current setup (parts in hand, not engine setup) incorporates a ross tuffbond race series balancer (no integrated crank trigger teeth) and the taarks hall effect cam sensor kit. I was under the impression that running a hall effect kit was simply a way to get a cleaner signal to the ecu rather than running the nissan cas. From what Im researching now am I correct in saying you have to run both a hall effect cam sensor as well as a crank trigger setup in order to utilize an aftermarket standalone ecu? Ill most likely either use an aem infinity or haltech elite.
If the answer is yes, and I need to incorporate a crank trigger into my build what options do I have? It looks like ross doesnt sell a separate crank trigger wheel for the race series balancers (must be ordered with the option of integrated crank trigger wheel). I cant run the mazworx or the taarks kits as both are made for the ATI balancer.
Open to suggestions on what to do, as well as short explanations as to what crank/cam trigger setups actually are since I cant find a straight answer anywhere in terms of our application and I feel like an idiot, lol
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Old 12-17-2018, 11:02 PM   #1027
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No. The taarks hall wheel acts as both a sync (180) and a home (1 degree) signal to determine where in the cycle the engine is currently.

That's exactly the way Nissan has it currently as the CAS does the same exact thing
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Old 01-02-2019, 03:23 PM   #1028
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No. The taarks hall wheel acts as both a sync (180) and a home (1 degree) signal to determine where in the cycle the engine is currently.

That's exactly the way Nissan has it currently as the CAS does the same exact thing
Huge relief, thanks a ton!
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Old 01-03-2019, 04:24 AM   #1029
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Hey everyone!
Newbie here, been lurking for a while & took the leap into Zilviadom last night.
I have a ton of work ahead of me, so will be adding my two cents & picking some brains along my journey.
Lots of very experienced & knowledgeable members here & the older I get, the less I wanna reinvent the wheel.
Some background; Been a Datsun/Nissan nut all my life, some were NA L series, some nitrous L series & the past 10 years or so, FJ’s & SR’s have been my choice.
I’m building a 510 now & going back to my L series roots on this one but later in the year I’ll be putting a 500-600hp VET into a 710 chassis.
The SR’s thus far haven’t been anything extreme, the most putting down 314 kw atw at 22 psi, remember these were all in old school Datsun platforms, 300kw is plenty.
So the VET build coming up will serpass all before & at 46years old with kids nearing college etc. I really can’t afford to bump my head & I’ll be leaning on all to head in the right direction.
Thanks in advance & thanks for this awesome forum.
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:22 PM   #1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by candyred_240sx View Post
Latest tune:



sr22vet, Kelford 184-T cams, GTX35 1.06 A/R @ 35 psi, 70% ethanol.

725whp / 526 tq
This the GTX3576/82 or 84???
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:33 PM   #1031
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Props to candy red those are great numbers

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Old 01-27-2019, 03:28 PM   #1032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s13silvia123 View Post
for you guys who are pushing 700hp range. are you guys using -8 AN or -10 AN fuel lines.
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-8AN fuel lines should suffice but folks just step up to -10AN for peace of mind.

Anyone here running Taarks Hall sensor and ECU Master ECU?? Or any other ecu with the taarks hall sensor??

Looking to pick someone's brain on setup.
It’s not the lines that are the issue. The I.D. of the fittings usually chokes down the fuel flow. While -6AN lines are larger than factory, the fittings are actually smaller. However, there are plenty of cars out there running -6 or factory lines well into the 600hp world. -8AN should be all you need for the SR. -10AN is require for 1000+hp.
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Old 01-28-2019, 08:49 AM   #1033
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Good to see you back jr!! How is you/fam and car doing?? Been a while
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Old 01-30-2019, 11:24 AM   #1034
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Wanted to ask a quick question from those of you who've had some higher hp sr's built. Is it more worthwhile to upgrade main caps or the girdle? I know the stock main caps have some issues with 'walk' around the 550-600hp mark and up. Will mazworx billet main caps solve this or is a JHH billet girdle paired with stock caps more than enough? I dont really want to do both as I dont see it as completely necessary for my build, but if either is cost effective insurance for track use Im willing to go with either.
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Old 02-09-2019, 01:13 PM   #1035
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.......

I was wondering about that. I wasn't going to upgrade the main caps till I heard they have a cracking problem over 600hp.
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Old 02-09-2019, 01:43 PM   #1036
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Same here ha ha haven’t been able to find solid info on this other than on parts sites but then you don’t know if they’re just trying to sell their parts [emoji23]🤣 I’m looking to be around the 6-650 range on mine so would be good to get some proper info on what’s actually necessity


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Old 02-09-2019, 02:28 PM   #1037
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Garage motive / jet200 s14 , andrew did talk about it ... main with the bolt hole in the middle and the weakess ... after that you have gtir main (they dont have a hole in them) 600/650 whp mark and after it would be billlet main + and 1/2 studs

I just dont know if gtir and a billet girddle like jhh or plazmaman would do the trick
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:32 PM   #1038
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I have mazworx billet main caps with 1/2 head studs and main studs that i think about selling !
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Old 02-10-2019, 10:26 AM   #1039
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Quick question

Is this cam damage beyond repair or worth to be ran?? The damage is to the CAS slot oon the exhaust cam

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Old 02-11-2019, 09:26 PM   #1040
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Good to see you back jr!! How is you/fam and car doing?? Been a while
I’ve been around, I just haven’t posted much, life is busy my friend. We are doing well. Finally settled down in SE PA in our own place. How are you?

Quote:
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Wanted to ask a quick question from those of you who've had some higher hp sr's built. Is it more worthwhile to upgrade main caps or the girdle? I know the stock main caps have some issues with 'walk' around the 550-600hp mark and up. Will mazworx billet main caps solve this or is a JHH billet girdle paired with stock caps more than enough? I dont really want to do both as I dont see it as completely necessary for my build, but if either is cost effective insurance for track use Im willing to go with either.
I would say the most substantial upgrade would be hardware and the girdle. The girdle ties all the pieces of the puzzle together in the bottom end.

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Quick question

Is this cam damage beyond repair or worth to be ran?? The damage is to the CAS slot oon the exhaust cam

How much play does the damage allow? I would say if the cams drive forces are on the undamaged side, youd be fine. The cam should never rotate backwards. See picture below for explanation.
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Old 02-13-2019, 12:38 PM   #1041
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Well, doesn't matter now jr. The said cams were sent as a set, and somehow arrived as 2 pieces of exhaust cam and an intake cam.......So errrr, yeah.
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Old 02-13-2019, 03:26 PM   #1042
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Well, doesn't matter now jr. The said cams were sent as a set, and somehow arrived as 2 pieces of exhaust cam and an intake cam.......So errrr, yeah.
Have you found a car to put this setup in yet? Last we talked you didn’t even have a chassis.
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Old 02-18-2019, 03:30 PM   #1043
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In case anyone's interested, here's an EFR 7163 .80 on my VE'd SR.
89mm x 91mm. Compression is around 10:1. P12 head which has oversized in/ex valves installed, no other headwork/porting/whatever done. P12 cams.

This was on ordinary pump fuel (93 in your AON rating).
1.8bar of boost tapering to 1.6bar (26 to 23psi).

567 PS is 417 kw.

Max dyno reading was 582 PS / 700 nm (515 lb ft) at 2 bar, but we decided for a bit of safety in the end as the car will see full throttle quite often and has to work in all kinds of situations (like 4th gear full throttle drifting on a slow track at 110 F).

Quite happy with the result. 500 nm (~370 lb ft) for nearly 4k of revband was the target. We about got there. With E85 this should be even wider...

Response on the dyno was mind blowing. Haven't driven it on the road yet. Freakin curious on how it will drive.

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Old 02-18-2019, 03:53 PM   #1044
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Going mechanical pump on my P12 build. I haven’t really seen anyone else go mechanical.

Anyone else do this?

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Old 02-18-2019, 04:20 PM   #1045
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Interesting is the boost falling in the higher RPM's? the power is falling slowly to 7500 or did you adjust the cam gears to get it that way?
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Old 02-18-2019, 04:22 PM   #1046
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Going mechanical pump on my P12 build. I haven’t really seen anyone else go mechanical.

Anyone else do this?


Are you mounting that where the flan clutch should go?
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Old 02-18-2019, 06:49 PM   #1047
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Are you mounting that where the flan clutch should go?
From the looks of the kit, it’s going to mount where the water pump would be, and driven off of the crank. I’m going electric water pump and e fans anyways.
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:07 AM   #1048
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Interesting is the boost falling in the higher RPM's? the power is falling slowly to 7500 or did you adjust the cam gears to get it that way?
A few things

- "60lb" turbo on 93 Octane, so no surprise to see it falling off up top
- P12 cams may be holding him back up top.
- Boost taper up top

Otherwise, this is a very wicked dyno! Love everything about it . 300+ ft lbs over 4K (and @ 3600 at that) is fantastic and into V8 territory
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Old 02-19-2019, 10:41 AM   #1049
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d9m13n is just really niced9m13n is just really niced9m13n is just really niced9m13n is just really niced9m13n is just really niced9m13n is just really niced9m13n is just really niced9m13n is just really nice
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Holy hell, thanks for posting your dyno. My setup incorporates a single scroll EFR 7163 .85 indycar turbo, and I was afraid I wouldn't be able to push 550 wheel out of it. This gives me a lot more confidence that it's the right turbo for my goals, especially since ill be on e85. Hopefully I dont suffer too much more with spool compared to your twin scroll/smaller a/r setup.
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That wing looks as effective as the electoral college.
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Old 02-19-2019, 10:51 AM   #1050
RalliartRsX
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Feedback Score: 32 reviews
Evo boys make 600+ at all fours on a 7163


Where did you source the proprietary indycar v band turbine inlet flange and 3 bolt compressor inlet?
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