Wheel Fitment Question Thread

[Mack0917]

Originally Posted by SupaDoopa

Ironic because just a few days ago there was a guy selling 2 sets of OEM fronts. I don't think he'd part them, doe. 1 set had a dented up passenger side too so that set was kinda cheap. Shitty timing but you'd be better off just going overs now anyways.

You should be able to fit a 15mm spacer in there and be good to go give a take a few mm's.

I've gone through 8 pages of things for sale and only found one guy who had a pair and wanted $350 for both. They were burgundy ask him about splitting them but didn't get a response. And I was looking on rim tuck and I saw a couple 225/40 18x9.5 +12 set ups and it looked like they did not roll or pull their fenders. So number wise, if I put on 20mm overs, and put my 20mm spacer, I should be good.. Of course depending on how accurate the 20mm fenders are. And I will then just adjust the camber if I need to. Now to decide which ones to get for under $330!

[Ryan_1]

The end of this month my VSKFs will be arriving 18x9.5 +2 front and 18x10.5 +1 rear for my S13. Just wondering what size tyres I should run? 215 40 or 225 40 front. and the rear either 225 40 235 40. Keeping in mind my car is has standard gaurds. I am going to pump them a lil bit aswell

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by Ryan_1

The end of this month my VSKFs will be arriving 18x9.5 +2 front and 18x10.5 +1 rear for my S13. Just wondering what size tyres I should run? 215 40 or 225 40 front. and the rear either 225 40 235 40. Keeping in mind my car is has standard gaurds. I am going to pump them a lil bit aswell

Same exact spec wheels on my S14 with 225/40-18s up front and 235/40-18s rears



You should stretch the narrowest you can since its going into an S13 and you'll need to pull those fenders and run some camber to clear, specially the rears.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by That_240sx

Looking to buy a wheel setup soon, so can someone please help me out with the right spec choose?

I found wheels I want.

Sizes

18x10 +12mm Front
18x10 +12mm Rear.

What tire size would I need to have a decent stretched wheel? Would that be good sizes for a nice fitment? I also have a 1997 240sx on S15 Nismo Struts and Nismo lowering springs, lowered 1.5' all around,.

225/40-18s, shit will poke out since its fairly high and you have no camber adjustment. Its a good starting setup honestly...once you lower it more and have some camber adjustment to tuck the tires in, itll look even better.

Originally Posted by D-KILLA

97 s14:
Rolled fenders and quarters all around
Need Tire sizes for work 18x11 (REARS) with 4" lip

-i have adjustable camber
-i dont mind a tad stretch. nothing fucked up though

thanks

Whats the offset? Depending on how low or how high it is will dictate what size tires you can run.

These rears are 18x11 +26 with 265/35-18s

Originally Posted by jebarton3

What size tires would I need to run on an S14 kouki with 18x9.5 +15 and 18x10.5 +15? What camber should I run and do I need to roll the fenders or add spacers? Any pics?

And any idea if this setup will clear brembos?

Roll and pull definitely. How much pull will depend on tire size and camber.

As far as clearing brakes, wheel offset has nothing to do with clearing brakes. You can have -50 offset wheels or +50 offset wheels and neither could clear BBKs. All depends on the rim face designs. Some are designed to clear more than others, or if you buy name brands like SSR, Work, etc, usually have multiple face types that will either give you more brake clearance or more lip.

[Ryan_1]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

Same exact spec wheels on my S14 with 225/40-18s up front and 235/40-18s rears



You should stretch the narrowest you can since its going into an S13 and you'll need to pull those fenders and run some camber to clear, specially the rears.

I meant S14.

[Beemer]

Dude re-route your harness, its not a difficult and then you can achieve the look your wanting/go lower up front.

[Roscoe.]

I've been reading through this thread, and it's a godsend, but I'm still sort of having trouble figuring out my ideal setup offset wise. I'm on a zenki, and would like to do 17x9 front 17X10 rear, with around 3-4 degrees camber up front, and as little fender roll/pull as possible. I'm thinking -12 for the front, -18 rear, does this sound okay? What tire sizes? 225/45?

[Beemer]

Your going to have to roll and pull fenders for sure with that setup plus a harness re-route, for tires 225 is a decent size but run like a 35 up front and 40 in the back. Google rimtuck for fitment and tyrestretch for finding the right size tires to stretch. I had to roll my fenders and i have 18x9.5 +10 all around, your fitment will be ballin.

[Roscoe.]

How much of a pull are we talking?

[Beemer]

Really depends on the camber and the tire size your going to go with. If you wanting to run negative camber then not to bad of a pull, If your wanting to run more postive camber then more pull is going to be needed. My 9.5+ 10 sits pretty tight with barely any negative camber and all i did was a roll.

[Beemer]

Heres the back. I did end up going a bit more lower.

[Roscoe.]

Cool, thanks mate. I thought they'd fit fairly well, but I'm still trying to work out this offset game ha. I don't mind a bit of rolling and pulling, but I don't want to have to pull inches.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Good rule of thumb for any S-chassis wheel fitment: 9j +9 fronts and 10j +10 offset.

[HipHopHippo]

when i bought my car, the previous owner had megan track coils on it. Right after I got it I swapped them for my pbms. The wheels on it are 17x9 +26 all the way around, and you could run them with the megan coils with just one slip on spacer and clear the coils, but with the pbms I have to run +25 spacers in the front to get them to not scrape the coils. What am I missing here?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by xoxide

Fortune's.


Going down tommorow to pickup some XD9's 18x9.5 +20... Hopefully they clear without spacers.

Should fit, I just stuck my finger between my wheels 500s, and I have about 1-1/4" gap. Looking at tire calculator, your setup will have about 12mm less clearance than what I got, should still give you a few mm to clear.

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

when i bought my car, the previous owner had megan track coils on it. Right after I got it I swapped them for my pbms. The wheels on it are 17x9 +26 all the way around, and you could run them with the megan coils with just one slip on spacer and clear the coils, but with the pbms I have to run +25 spacers in the front to get them to not scrape the coils. What am I missing here?

Like I said, all depends on the suspension. Shock/strut thickness, collar size, spring length/size, wheel sizing all plays into wheel clearance up front when its really close. When i had MR's I had the opposite issue. I had to run 15mm spacers to clear the front on some 17x10 +12. At the height my car was, the wheels were touching the collars, they were right on the rim lip. If I raised the car, and the collars are higher up, I wouldnt need the spacers.

[xoxide]

Alright cool...

Next stupid question,

Looking to run a 225/40 on the rear, that should clear the fender without a pull... What about a 225/45? Thats what I have right now, and cheap 40's seem impossible to come by at the moment.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by xoxide

Alright cool...

Next stupid question,

Looking to run a 225/40 on the rear, that should clear the fender without a pull... What about a 225/45? Thats what I have right now, and cheap 40's seem impossible to come by at the moment.

If you already got the 45s, just run with them. I'm running 225/40-18s up front and 235/40-18s in the rear. If the rear lips are flat already, should fit, worst case, add some more camber if you dont wanna pull the fenders anymore.

[xoxide]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

If you already got the 45s, just run with them. I'm running 225/40-18s up front and 235/40-18s in the rear. If the rear lips are flat already, should fit, worst case, add some more camber if you dont wanna pull the fenders anymore.

Yeah, they were near new KDW's for $20 bucks so I scooped them.... I just dont like the profile of 45's right now, but it could also be the beefy look the 8.5 gives it right now (my current Z wheels)... We'll see.

[greatwhitebuffalo]

Make sure the wheel and tire are both clean, make sure there are no tears or cuts in the tire. Raise pressure to 65-80 psi, lower back to 50.

[xoxide]

^Done all that multiple times.

[greatwhitebuffalo]

I would guess there is something wrong with the tire. I've had 205/40s on 9.5s that seated with no problems.

[xoxide]

I didn't have any problem with them seating on a 8.5... Granted its way less stretch, but still?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Depends on how old the tire is too. Stretching a used tire that wasnt stretched can be iffy sometimes.

[xoxide]

I bought them about 8-10 months ago.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by xoxide

I bought them about 8-10 months ago.

Yah, if they've been mounted on non-stretched setup for that long and probably have hardened so they're not cooperating.

[xoxide]

So is there any way to persuade them to cooperate? Lol

[RHDAmerica]

Yes. Try these options. All have worked for us in the past.

1) Check for molding nipples on the bead, if they are there take a razor blade to all of them and make a nice smooth surface.
2) Once the tire is seated to the bead lay the wheel down on a blanket face first and smack the back of the tire with a rubber mallet, if there is any debris in there it will blow it out.
3) Buy a can of "bead sealer" if you can't find any go to a local tire shop and they should have some you can buy, it will come with a brush, I recommend putting a decent amount around the wheel where the bead seats to and then try airing it up.

This will usually guarantee a nice tight seal, also try leaving them out in the sun for a day at 65psi, then come down to 45psi. I would never recommend going to 80psi on a stretch tire, that's ridiculous and putting yourself in danger. I have seen them explode at higher pressures like that.

I would also check the DOT's the tires should be no older than 2008 as of this year. The DOT will be located usually on 1 side of the tire only and always on the sidewall close to the bead, there will be a bunch of random numbers and letters and then a (4) digit number at the end. I.E. "1310" This means the tire was manufactured on the 13th week of 2010. The older a tire gets the harder the compound can be and more likely to wear out quicker, or blow out. Doesn't mean it will, but odds are not in your favor the older a tire gets.

GL to you.

[xoxide]

^Thanks for the tips... I guess I may take a run up to discount or somewhere monday and see if they cant get it to seal for me... Its just weird how difficult they are being.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Are you using a cheetah to get it to bead?

[xoxide]

No.... Just mounting the tire, and then hooking up the air into the valve stem, its seating just fine.