My SR20VET...

[jr_ss]

So, some of you, well most of you may be aware that the DET manifolds bolt up. However, the ports are slightly lower in the head. Nissan raised the ports for cooling channels and to provide a straighter path to the combustion chamber, you know, that theory of a straight line between two objects is the fastest and shortest path… Unfortunately, that means some modifications have to be done to the DET manifold.

So, tonight, I was loading up my goodies for coating and I wanted to make sure what actually had to happen. I happen to have a spare head without valves here, so I bolted the manifold up and used my trusty little camera I mentioned in the last post. I am happy to say, I do NOT have to oblong the bolt holes in the exhaust manifold flange. If I gasket match the DET manifold, I can get away without oblonging the flange holes. This makes things a lot easier. I have ordered the correct gasket for the VE/VET, which happens to be a 6-7layer SS gasket as well. P/N - 14036-8H600. I will lay this on the manifold and bevel the runner inlets accordingly, so nothing is hanging down in the exhaust flow path as seen below. Don’t mind the semi blurry, partially focused pictures. I shake like MJ at times…

You can vaguely make out the black sharpie along the poet edges. I’d say this is 1.5mm to 2.5mm at most. The bottom of the port is not interfering with the flow path, only the top.

[jr_ss]

Just some small updates recently.

Prior to my move and ultimately my engine failure, I did not have heat in the car. All the components were there, it just didn’t work. I thought maybe it was a heater hose issue originally. Come to find out, I didn’t have vent adjustment either, indicating my control unit may have failed or was malfunctioning. The lack of motor movement suggested a power supply issue, but the blower motor worked just fine (separate power source). Years ago, I moved my engine bay harness and fusebox to the back of the car and I thought perhaps, I screwed something up. I was really dreading going through it all again, but it turns out, my 7.5a fuse was blown. I tested all functions, except heat(obviously) and my motor control has been restored and hopefully with it, heat for those colder days in the spring or fall when the roads have not been salted yet.

I’ve got the modified condenser box complete and back in the car. I was going to get fancy with plastic welding a piece over the open holes in the box where the lines poke through, but decided to just put some sound deadening/insulation material over it. I mainly had this material sitting around and I did not want to order a plastic welder for use on some small items and be put back into a box for years. This works, serves the purpose intended and lets me save money for other things.






I mounted my TC4 and WB1 where the passenger airbag sits. I cut a piece of 3/16 aluminum and drilled holes for the mounting clips you can purchase through Haltech. It is not entirely accessible with the condenser box installed, but that is a 4 screw process to remove and then I have complete access to them, should I need to work on it. The thermocouple wires were run and zip tied temporarily while I got them terminated. I’ll replace the zip ties with metal units due to heat.







My VC was taken apart for cleaning. It was not scrubbed or cleaned post coating and I wanted to make sure there was no media blast left in it before we started the motor back up. Below you can see why the S14/15 VC’s are superior to the S13 units. Quite a bit of baffling internally, with no “screens” that can gum up over time. I’ll be tapping each hole and putting screws into it for ease of removal/cleaning in the future.





Prior to pulling the VC apart, I installed my Radium Engineering VC fittings. These things are very nice and are pretty easy to install. I did the old block-o-wood and mallet method. I would suggest you throw the fittings in the freezer and lube them up prior to assembly/insertion in the VC.

Apparently, I had the dreaded door panel plastic failure starting on my D/S. I’m not sure when this started and I do not recall it prior to having the panel recovered. At any rate, I used some Permatex Plastic Welder 84115 and “welded” my cracked pieces back together. I did drill the ends of the cracks to prevent them from propagating further. I’ll cover this with some fiberglass mat as reinforcement.

[tuzzio]

Good updates as always. Your thread was motivation for me to start the process of getting a IAC back on my car, cause it drives me nuts (now) not having one. Your choice turned out to my second choice. Going with the Ford 2 wire IAC, mostly based on cost.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by tuzzio

Good updates as always. Your thread was motivation for me to start the process of getting a IAC back on my car, cause it drives me nuts (now) not having one. Your choice turned out to my second choice. Going with the Ford 2 wire IAC, mostly based on cost.

Hey! Glad I spurred the interest and motivation to get it installed. I wanted the stepper motor style of the GM. Haltech has it as a selection on their drop down of IACVs. Either way, they are an easy way to add it back to the system without the bulkiness of the S13 style. I believe Radium Engineering?s S14 spacer would be an easy way to adapt one as well.

[jr_ss]

Once the VC was decreased and I had removed as much of the old RTV as possible, I drilled and tapped all 22 of the rivet holes for M5 x .8 screws. Forunately, I had a box of 100 of these damn screws from a purchase year's ago. Unfortunately, they were too long and had to be shortened up. Even 10mm long screws from the hardware would’ve been too long. So, I fabbed a little cutting block and knocked out 22 in roughly 5 minutes.








After the holes were tapped, I cleaned the VC again and wiped down all the surfaces fresh RTV was going to be applied too. Then I laid a nice bead around the edges and every screw hole to take advantage of the RTV squish and encapsulate the heads of the bolts to permanently secure them in place and prevent them from backing out. I also added a dab on each head and the baffle as extra security.







Here are the Radium fittings I didn’t have a photo of in my last post. Rear of the Tee is going to the block vent.

[RedSled]

Did you use threadlocker on the button head screws for the baffles ?

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by RedSled

Did you use threadlocker on the button head screws for the baffles ?

I did not. Plenty of RTV to keep them in place.

[jr_ss]

Some of you may have seen the R33 cluster installed in the dash a few pages back. I’ve had the wiring sorted for some time, but did not have wire colors to go along with it. I took some time to add that to the mix this past weekend. This is strictly for ‘95 SE cluster wiring to R33 cluster wiring.



I also finished the door panel reinforcement.




And a few replacement parts from Mazworx.

[jr_ss]

I’m slowly plugging away at things over here. I’ve been traveling, what seems like weekly, for work since the last post.

I completed the harness modifications to get the R33 cluster in. I have one wire to run for the Oil psi sensor so the gauge will function on the dash, which I’ll run when I start wiring all the additional sensors I am adding in a separate sub harness.

I also had a guy print some gauge mounting options for me. I’m not sure if I like the dead center or the offset pod better. Thoughts?






I also started messing with the fuel system. I’m running a single in tank “Hellcat” pump with a boost a pump if necessary. A lot of guys are making north of 1000hp with this setup. I’ve upsized the factory wiring in the OEM connector to handle the amp load. I believe it is 10 or 12gauge wire. I have a completely new relay assembly setup using the factory power wire as the trigger. This relay is fed by larger wiring to handle the amp load as well. It worked with my last iteration.

Look at that old crusty and trusted Wally. 16yrs that thing has been swimming in some of Florida’s finest fuel.

[RalliartRsX]

Yaaasssss!

[jr_ss]

my motor parts come back from Cerakote. I did some cardboard engineering and came up with this.




I didn’t have anywhere in the engine bay to install this and I wanted to keep it under the car to aid in removal and maintenance. I also didn’t want it to be completely open to road debris or mount it through the floor board.





I have two other mounts I’m working on for my flex fuel sensor and Radium FPR. The sensor will be mounted forward of this, utilizing a fuel line bracket bolt hole, a vacant bolt hole and the rear brake junction mount. The other is for the FPR, which will mount on the backside of the strut tower.

[tuzzio]

Awesome progress. That radium filter seems larger in diameter than most filters (Compared to my aeromotive anyways) but good stuff. I have my FPR mounted to the strut tower, and I wish I went with a rail mounted one.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by tuzzio

Awesome progress. That radium filter seems larger in diameter than most filters (Compared to my aeromotive anyways) but good stuff. I have my FPR mounted to the strut tower, and I wish I went with a rail mounted one.

I wasn?t sure the flow rate would be sufficient with the rail mount, so I opted for the bigger unit. I?ll also have a FP sensor mounted on the rail and the gauge will be relocated to the regulator.

I have quite a few safe guards going in to prevent or at-least attempt to prevent catastrophic failures.

[tuzzio]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

I have quite a few safe guards going in to prevent or at-least attempt to prevent catastrophic failures.

I don't blame you.

[jr_ss]

Ethanol sensor mount complete…





I have to relocated my AN to hardline fitting (Parker 5FSC4N-316) and I’ll be removing the evap and factory fuel feed hardlines to simplify things. I have some replacement line clips I am going to install made from 3D printing. This will anchor my -8AN line in the factory clips.

Updated the post with information on the AN conversion fitting I used for my return line. It is a 5/16 OD tube x 1/4” NPT 316SS fitting from Parker.

[jr_ss]

Replacement ferrules showed up today. I just need to cut the factory hardline back far enough to provide ample room for some PFTE SS line and two straight -6AN fittings.



I also welded up the supports to the filter mount. I need to pick up some lock nuts or lock washes to secure the filter housing to the bracket.




FPR mount is next and then finalizing my lines.

[jr_ss]

Between traveling and other things going on I haven’t had much time to work on my car. I did get my FPR mounted and installed the gauge. However, due to the placement of the fill port, I opted to put the gauge back on my rail and the PSI sensor in the regulator. All of the gauges I’ve come across have the fill port at 4:30 and when they are mounted plumb, it leaks.

The other things keeping me away from my car are some hues vehicles. One is an ‘01 Camaro with a single turbo. The other is an ‘07 STI.

[jr_ss]

Not much to report really. I got my parts back from coating and they turned out great.




I threw my Ti hardware into the turbo flange and overlaid the head flange gasket on the manifold to check port matching. It required some clean up, so I decided to just knock it out.






I also picked up a ?rare? in the US ?oh shit? handle for the passenger side. Kind of excited about this piece.




My ?10 Xterra acquired an exhaust leak. Upon further inspection, it was a manifold crack. I?ve been sorting this out so the misses can drive it during the ?snow months? when needed as her car doesn?t have AWD/4WD and she totes the kiddos to school. This has been a huge pain in the ass. Mainly the head shielding, which is not removable unless you tear a whole lot of stuff out of the way.

[jr_ss]

I picked up a KBD NaVaN bumper some time ago, perhaps it’s was last year, who knows at this point. Anyway, I always wanted to add a lip to it. I really liked the Magic Aero lip, unfortunately, Paul is no longer making components do to health reasons. There are a few variations out there of lips, but only a few look right to me. I stumbled across the First Molding Flugelhorn Plate lip awhile back, but I always hesitated because the pictures online sucked and they weren’t exactly cheap to land stateside.

Long story short, I contact Alex Chang and he imported a few of the lips for various versions of the S-chassis. The lip showed up roughly 6-7mons after he placed the order. We were expecting Feb-May the following year. At any rate, it is here and it is beautiful.







I finally cut the hole for the BOV and refit all of my piping. This will allow me to lay out the additional sensors, wiring and new -10 hose for the catch can, oil cooler and filter relocation, and various other components. I was ordering fittings from Summit, but I found a local vendor (ppcfittings.com) that will crimp lines for me there at no additional charge. So instead of assembling my own lines, I’ll be having them crimped for a more professional appearance.



I started running tubing for the wastegate solenoid and I had to retap my compressor cover.



I also have been working with a gentleman to have the ash tray pocket made into something more useful for me.





Next step is to get the fuel filter mounted under the car and install the new anodized fuel line brackets. I’ll finalize the fuel feed/return lines and focus on fitting all the other nonsense under the intake manifold, while leaving room to work on it all.

As always, more to come, but it may be a minute since the Holidays are 3weeks out.

[PoorMans180SX]

I was always a fan of the First Molding stuff.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

I was always a fan of the First Molding stuff.

i have one of their carbon rear diffusers and its excellent.

[jr_ss]

I have been reworking my oil filter relocation, cooler lines and thermostat location to better serve me. While the location it has been in works great, it prevents me from running an oil temperature sensor in a spot that allows me to collect the temps pre and post cooler. As we all know, the way the thermostat works is it blocks off the feed to the cooler when the oil temps are below activation point, returning the oil back to the motor. When the thermostat opens, it allows flow through and back the same channel to feed back into the motor. So, this little bracket, allows me to angle the thermostat block in such a manner, that I can now get the temps with and without the thermostat open. Giving me an accurate temperature at all times. You can make our the little RIFE sensor at the bottom right corner in one of the photos.





Along with that bracket, I am working on a setup to allow my windshield washer reservoir to be located in roughly the same spot as factory, albeit rotated the long way to allow room for my charge pipe. No images yet.

I also started to fit the Navan bumper, which is taking some massaging due to the FMIC and the foam filler panel. Apparently, the USDM foam is different than the JDM version, as it is quite a tight fit. I believe I’ll have to do some massaging at the outer most corners. I’ll probably wait until Summer to mount the Fugel Plate lip, as winter has set in and it changes how malleable the KBD is. I want to get the lip secured correctly the first time. I’ll get some photos up next time.

Last but not least, I picked up this kit. RT hasn’t been around for awhile, but I have been think about swapping out my spherical bearing S14 knuckles to something with a bit more compliance. So why not swap out to something lighter at the same time.

[tuzzio]

Unsure if it'll suit your needs, but I believe I have a pair of Z32 rear uprights here that someone cut the brake tabs off of to run a dual caliper plate. That interests you, get ahold of me and pay shipping and they're yours.

Also, good progress as always. Annoying how time consuming stuff like the little brackets are, but can make a world of a difference to the user.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by tuzzio

Unsure if it'll suit your needs, but I believe I have a pair of Z32 rear uprights here that someone cut the brake tabs off of to run a dual caliper plate. That interests you, get ahold of me and pay shipping and they're yours.

Also, good progress as always. Annoying how time consuming stuff like the little brackets are, but can make a world of a difference to the user.

I actually have a set already, but thank you. I?m still on the fence with swapping, but I have all the components should I decide to do it. The increased NVH did not really bother me because it was at the wheels and not in the subframe, so the S14 knuckles may stay.

[jr_ss]

My original oil cooler and vent lines were made with Nylon covered rubber hoses and like most rubber, overtime, it looses its elasticity and starts to fail. I had a slightly leaking oil supply hose at the motor, so I decided it was time to replace the lines with something superior. I also wanted to ditch the red/blue color combination and went all black. Performance Plumbing Components is a family owned and operated business located in Wilmington, DE and have pretty good reviews. They have also been around for some time, so I decided to give them a shot. I decided this time around I would go the PTFE and crimped fitting route. Far less chance of assembly error and failures. I finished up the oil cooler lines today, just have to tune a few of the lines down for final crimping.












I also stumbled across a set of NaVaN foglights to fit on this turd. I?m honestly surprised I won these and I feel like I stole them. Very few of them pop up forsale in good shape, these are in great shape. However, there may be some surface rust on the reflectors, which I will have rechromed if needed.




Fuel filter finally mounted. I removed the OEM evap line and one of the fuel lines, to reduce clutter and make room for the -8 AN feed line.

[Snilssson]

Incredible work and craftmanship, keep it up!

[TheRealSy90]

What are you doing for the evap line off of the fuel tank?

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Snilssson

Incredible work and craftmanship, keep it up!

Thank you sir, I try, to my best ability.

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

What are you doing for the evap line off of the fuel tank?

To be honest, I?ll probably add a filter to the line and leave it open. I use to have it capped without issue. If I am not mistaken, the S14 has a vented gas cap, so pressure build up isn?t an issue.

[jr_ss]

Overall of the engine bay as it currently sits. All oil cooler lines are crimped and reinstalled. I will have to tighten a few fittings, but I need to move things to access them. I am lacking one or two fittings to finalize the catch can setup. I should have those in a couple days.



My wife’s present to me finally showed up. I cannot wait to get this hung up. I think I’m going to mount it to a block of wood and then on to the garage wall.

[projectsupra]

Such a clean engine bay, great work!