Wheel Fitment Question Thread

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by Justinbobby

I'm trying to see what front fenders I can run on 18x10 -6 on 215/40's.

Will run 25mm extended LCA and -5 to -7 camber.

I have a feeling I should run 25mm overs up front.

Would like some feedback thanks!

With that much camber and undersized tires...thats doable under stock pulled fenders. I'm running 18x10 +22 spaced to +2 on 225/40 with about 3* of camber.

I'll post up a picture of it later today for a reference.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

With that much camber and undersized tires...thats doable under stock pulled fenders. I'm running 18x10 +22 spaced to +2 on 225/40 with about 3* of camber.

I'll post up a picture of it later today for a reference.

Holy stretched fuckin tire flip... Im putting a 275-285 on my 10's in the rear and under stock sheet metal.

[Justinbobby]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

With that much camber and undersized tires...thats doable under stock pulled fenders. I'm running 18x10 +22 spaced to +2 on 225/40 with about 3* of camber.

I'll post up a picture of it later today for a reference.

Awesome thanks!

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Holy stretched fuckin tire flip... Im putting a 275-285 on my 10's in the rear and under stock sheet metal.

225/40-18s arent that bad of stretch on 10js. I've seen folks stretch 235/35-18s on them. I've stretched 225/40s on 11js before.

Here's my fronts, 225/40-18s on 18x10j +7 effectively with spacers.


Rears, 235/40-18s on 18x10.5 +10

[N33C0]

17 x 7 +40 with 205 45 's...what size spacer should i run and how will it look

[fckillerbee]

there isn't a spacer that can help you.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by N33C0

17 x 7 +40 with 205 45 's...what size spacer should i run and how will it look

Sell the wheels and save the money you'd have to spend for the spacers to make it look good. Use that money to get some knock off wheels. You can get a decent set of wheels for as little as $400-500.

[Breitling]

Heres a question more related to coilovers. Might not be the best thread... but i want to put it in the thread where I have the most respect for fitment guru's.


I am ready to drop 1000-1100 on new coilovers. I am considering PBM, StanceSS+, and FA500 Series 4's or Series 3. I drive the car 1000 miles a year (mainly drift and roadracing, and the occasional cruise-in)


1. Which would you buy? Why?

2. Which ones are the easiest/fastest/cheapest to rebuild.

3. are there any other equal options for 800-900?

[zooopreme]

Originally Posted by Breitling

Heres a question more related to coilovers. Might not be the best thread... but i want to put it in the thread where I have the most respect for fitment guru's.

I am ready to drop 1000-1100 on new coilovers. I am considering PBM, StanceSS+, and FA500 Series 4's or Series 3. I drive the car 1000 miles a year (mainly drift and roadracing, and the occasional cruise-in)

1. Which would you buy? Why?

2. Which ones are the easiest/fastest/cheapest to rebuild.

3. are there any other equal options for 800-900?

#1 & 2: for your budget, FA or PBM. Assuming you're going with PBM comp's & not pro's

Don't know about fastest service though. PBM offers replacement parts that you would have to work on yourself whereas FA offers rebuild/revalving for free if it's under warranty or it comes in a cheaper than jdm land prices. Their services do not include having to deal with shipping the damper out, etc.

Equal options? Meh, one would argue that Megans + Swifts go great but Megan dampers are crap. But by the money you've spent on those, you could've gone with Stance GR+'s at the very least.

And as for the new Stances, haven't tried them out or had anybody that I know buy them. So I have no idea how those ride. From what I'm told, they are a revision from their previous models. And into comparisons, PBM's new comps & pro's are revisions to their previous models that were great for track purposes only. So maybe Stance got it right this time around.

[Breitling]

Would you buy the stance SS, SS+ or the FA 500? They are the same price for me (within 60 bucks of eachother)

[zooopreme]

Originally Posted by Breitling

Would you buy the stance SS, SS+ or the FA 500? They are the same price for me (within 60 bucks of eachother)

Come on man. I, along with some members, have spoon fed you information (on the thread you started & on this thread) that you can google, yahoo search, and/or bing.

You've obviously have done research on prices now go into specifications and choose. If you have no idea what some terms mean, go do some more research to fully understand what you are looking to buy.

This is a wheel fitment question thread not a "what coilovers do I buy".

[fliprayzin240sx]

Honestly, I've been thinking of either rebuilding my Aragostas or going new with FA's. Knoop (95KA-Turbo) won't stop raving about the damn things every single time I've ask him about it. Unfortunately, I have yet to ride in his car to see how much I'd like them but knowing what he does with the car, I think I'd like them too. My Aragosta's aint exactly US roads happy since Japanese roads are smoother so the valving on them are pretty aggressive when driven on US roads. That and he runs an aggressive front wheel setup, you should shoot him a PM and see if he can send you a pix of how much clearance he has with his wheels and coils. Last reason I'm leaning on FA's, they're only an hour and a half away from where I'm at. I could potentially take my coilovers off, drive over there and have them rebuild it...they might be able to rebuild my Aragostas too.

[1320VR4]

Hey there guys, hoping you can help me with deciding on what to do with offsets and what not. Read about the first 20 pages so far of the thread and figured I'd just ask lol.

Anyhow I'm looking to buy a new set of the 16x8.25 XXR 527s for my vert 4 lug drift car project. I have 40mm over fenders in the front and 50mm over fenders in the rear. I intend on running minimal to no camber in the rear and some up front (for drifting obviously)

From what I can gather, these poke just a little bit with the stock fenders (therefore up front with camber they should sit perfect). I presume that would mean that a 35 or 40mm spacer would be appropriate? I presume I'll have to go with the spacers that bolt on and have an extra set of studs no? Are these really safe?


Additionally I'm considering getting some custom diamond racing wheels made (ya know the typical high offset steelies). Anyhow going with an 8.5" rim (16") what offset would be appropriate?


Most of the information I'm finding applies to non-wide bodied cars.

thanks,
Matt

[Breitling]

Originally Posted by zooopreme

Come on man. I, along with some members, have spoon fed you information (on the thread you started & on this thread) that you can google, yahoo search, and/or bing.

You've obviously have done research on prices now go into specifications and choose. If you have no idea what some terms mean, go do some more research to fully understand what you are looking to buy.

This is a wheel fitment question thread not a "what coilovers do I buy".

All things considered... Thank you for helping me in previous topics. And, i did read the "Stance vs Fortune" thread after searching yesterday. I came in here to ask opinions as stated earlier because I respect the people who contribute a lot of knowledge to this thread as we are like-minded. ADDITIONALLY, I searched earlier this morning for a "suspension question thread" and didn't find a thread. Dont bust my balls. I searched, now I want opinions.

[JonathanPrem]

Need some help-

Im running 20mm chargespeed overs with 18x9.5 -6 on 215/40 running -3 camber up front. How much camber and poke will i have with i run 18x10.5 +6? Out back i'm gonna run -1 to -2 camber at most.

Also will 10.5 + 6 clear Evo 9 calipers

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by 1320VR4

Hey there guys, hoping you can help me with deciding on what to do with offsets and what not. Read about the first 20 pages so far of the thread and figured I'd just ask lol.

Anyhow I'm looking to buy a new set of the 16x8.25 XXR 527s for my vert 4 lug drift car project. I have 40mm over fenders in the front and 50mm over fenders in the rear. I intend on running minimal to no camber in the rear and some up front (for drifting obviously)

From what I can gather, these poke just a little bit with the stock fenders (therefore up front with camber they should sit perfect). I presume that would mean that a 35 or 40mm spacer would be appropriate? I presume I'll have to go with the spacers that bolt on and have an extra set of studs no? Are these really safe?


Additionally I'm considering getting some custom diamond racing wheels made (ya know the typical high offset steelies). Anyhow going with an 8.5" rim (16") what offset would be appropriate?


Most of the information I'm finding applies to non-wide bodied cars.

thanks,
Matt

So you have 40mm fenders up front and 50mm fenders in the rear...you have no business running 8.5j rims. I would sell the fenders, save the money you'd have to get for spacers, get better fitting wheels. 9j/10j +12 is a good start. You can sell those fenders for $500, save $300 from buying thick ass spacers and then whatever money you had that you were gonna use to buy wheels. You can easily save $1k after everything is said and done. You can get some knock off wheels or some used quality rims.

Originally Posted by JonathanPrem

Need some help-

Im running 20mm chargespeed overs with 18x9.5 -6 on 215/40 running -3 camber up front. How much camber and poke will i have with i run 18x10.5 +6? Out back i'm gonna run -1 to -2 camber at most.

Also will 10.5 + 6 clear Evo 9 calipers

First off, rim width and offset has absolutely nothing to do with clearing brake calipers. Its all about the rim design. If its concave or has a high pad, most of the time itll clear. 3 piece Work rims usually have 3 different faces that changes how much brake they can clear.

For S-14s, you can get away without the 20mm fenders up front. 9.5j -6 on undersized 215/40 tires are doable on stock fenders with just a roll and pull. How much pull will depend on how much camber you run. With -3 camber, you'd barely have to do a pull. Rears, 10.5 +6, look at my picture above. My rears are 18x10.5 +10 on 235/40-18s with about 1.5 to 2 degrees of camber. Just cuz I'm slammed, I had to pull my rear fenders a good 1 to 1.5 inches.

[1320VR4]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

So you have 40mm fenders up front and 50mm fenders in the rear...you have no business running 8.5j rims. I would sell the fenders, save the money you'd have to get for spacers, get better fitting wheels. 9j/10j +12 is a good start. You can sell those fenders for $500, save $300 from buying thick ass spacers and then whatever money you had that you were gonna use to buy wheels. You can easily save $1k after everything is said and done. You can get some knock off wheels or some used quality rims.

The XXRs are cheap and would make for a good starter set of drift wheels not to mention they look good. My stock fenders are SHOT to hell, both front and rear so at a minimum I needed over fenders.

I'm not opposed to buying real forged wheels at some point but the car isn't ready for that yet, for instance I have a bangin' set of Advan RG2s on my VR4. Anyhow, I feel like a really wide rim/tire setup at this point would be too much for the KA-T setup in progress (stock block, t25). it also doesn't make sense for me to buy another set of fenders to use with less offset wheels just to use them and then likely upgrade later.

-Matt

[JonathanPrem]

Flip- sorry for my wording . I'm currently running 18x 9.5 -6 in the front but my new wheels are 18x10.5 + 6 in front . Can it be done on 20mm front with 3.5-4 camber .

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by 1320VR4

The XXRs are cheap and would make for a good starter set of drift wheels not to mention they look good. My stock fenders are SHOT to hell, both front and rear so at a minimum I needed over fenders.

I'm not opposed to buying real forged wheels at some point but the car isn't ready for that yet, for instance I have a bangin' set of Advan RG2s on my VR4. Anyhow, I feel like a really wide rim/tire setup at this point would be too much for the KA-T setup in progress (stock block, t25). it also doesn't make sense for me to buy another set of fenders to use with less offset wheels just to use them and then likely upgrade later.

-Matt

If it makes you feel better...I'm running 10js up front and 10.5js on the rear on a stock POS KA thats making maybe 100whp. My mentality is do it right once so you wont have to do it again. Get some wheels that actually fits the car, even knock off wheels nowadays have good sizes. Get something thats atleast a 9j, between +20 to 0 offset.

Originally Posted by JonathanPrem

Flip- sorry for my wording . I'm currently running 18x 9.5 -6 in the front but my new wheels are 18x10.5 + 6 in front . Can it be done on 20mm front with 3.5-4 camber .

Fender clearance, yes. Some folks have stuffed 11js up front. The issue you'd have is lock to lock clearance. Anything wider than a 10j up front, you'd have to bang the living crap out of the wheel wells, specially when you're slammed.

[Mister.E]

If i plan on running a 265/35R18 Feddy on a 12J wheel, what tire pressure would you guys recommend running so the bead won't pop off?

[KA-Life86]

I would imagine 40-45 would be fine, maybe 50. Feddys tend to run wide and a 265 isn't that crazy of a stretch on a 12j

[Mister.E]

those were my exact thoughts too, but i figured someone else here who had done it before might chime in.

[fliprayzin240sx]

If it makes you feel better, I've had a leak on one of my fronts for a while now. I had the tires flipped, rotated to the other side. Needless to say, I forgot that i moved it to the opposite side and been checking the wrong side. Drove the car to the point that it started pulling to one side, hard. Checked the pressure after coming home from work and I had 10 psi. This is on 225/40-18 Star Specs on 10j Work Equips. I'm thinking my valve stem is leaking.

[Mister.E]

Damn Ray, that's nuts. didnt damage your wheels at all did you? What is causing the leak? is there a rip in the bead?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by E Double

Damn Ray, that's nuts. didnt damage your wheels at all did you? What is causing the leak? is there a rip in the bead?

No clue, I was thinking its a damn nail. Flipped the tires, didnt see any cut on the tires or anything. Been doing it since I got them mounted. Keep forgetting to check to see where its leaking, my guess is the valve stem is leaking. The rubber seal around the valve might be falling apart.

[fckillerbee]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

No clue, I was thinking its a damn nail. Flipped the tires, didnt see any cut on the tires or anything. Been doing it since I got them mounted. Keep forgetting to check to see where its leaking, my guess is the valve stem is leaking. The rubber seal around the valve might be falling apart.

wiggle the stem...you can hear it spew air. If not....inflate to 50psi and dunk it in the bathtub. You should see where it's leaking air.

[fliprayzin240sx]

I'm thinking of dumping half a can of fix a flat in it. Did that before in Japan and fixed a leak I had with no issue.

[2jdm4you]

Okay, so I'm having second thoughts about my wheel setup coming in for my s14. I have 20mm fronts and m sport 50mm rears pulled to 70, and I'm looking to run 18x11 -19 up front and 18x13 -19 in the rear, what kind of camber am I looking to run, or what can I do to fit them. It's not sliding too hard since it's my daily. I was thinking molding flares over the fenders front and back, but I feel like it'll look stupid. Any opinions? Oh yeah, I'm running a 225/40 up front and a 265/40 in the back.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

I'm thinking of dumping half a can of fix a flat in it. Did that before in Japan and fixed a leak I had with no issue.

Fix a flat will unbalance your set up. Green Slime is the best and if you jack up the rear end you can fill two tires at once, run them to 2500rpm to spread the stuff and 'auto balance', then do the other two tires the same way. Fast easy way to check the entire tire/wheel for leaks is with a squirt bottle of soapy water...if you're too cheap to get one, poke a hole in a water bottle cat and squeeze it...only use a little soap. The bubbles make it real easy to see the leak

[fliprayzin240sx]

^^^I'll check out that Green Slime. Usually if I'm looking for leaks, i'll just spray simple green and itll bubble up. Just keep forgetting and this fucking heat is killing any motivation I have to go to my garage. Hoooray for 108 heat index!!!