My SR20VET...

[scottie]

The harness looks really good! I am glad you actually got yours as it seems a lot of people have given up due to long wait times. Please update when the harness is installed. This is a pretty high profile build and IMO help or tarnish a highly controversial parts provider. Keep up the good work.

[AWahl]

Quality build I cant wait to see this thing run!

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by scottie

The harness looks really good! I am glad you actually got yours as it seems a lot of people have given up due to long wait times. Please update when the harness is installed. This is a pretty high profile build and IMO help or tarnish a highly controversial parts provider. Keep up the good work.

Thanks for the kind words Scottie! However, your build casts a shadow over mine.

I am extremely pleased with the asthetics of the harness, however, the true test still awaits. I will be sure to post back once it is installed. I'll also report once the car is fired up and I see/find any issues with the harness.

With that said, I made this at work this evening. It is .125" plate aluminum and was created with a couple hole saws and then I threw it on the lathe to true it up.



And this is what it is for... Picture is sort of blurry.



Once I find some time, I'll get some mounting holes drilled in it and get it bolted into the car. I'll most likely put some thin rubber between the bulkhead and the cannon plug plate to "seal" the engine bay from the interior. It should also help cut down on some noise as well.

[Mikester]

^Dude... Cannon plugs.

Serious awesomeness. Working with aircraft avionics for a living, I have often dreamed of this... Anxious to see it installed~

Where did you get the plugs?

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Mikester

^Dude... Cannon plugs.

Serious awesomeness. Working with aircraft avionics for a living, I have often dreamed of this... Anxious to see it installed~

Where did you get the plugs?

ChaseBays has it available depending on the harness you choose. I have a picture of it on the previous page intergrated into the harness. The harness I purchased was the CM2.

I may get around to installing it this weekend, so of course pictures will be up.

[jr_ss]

So today I dropped my wheels and tires off at the local Toyota dealership where a buddy works. He hooked me up with mounting and balancing. I refuse to take my wheels/tires to the regular tire shops because they generally don't give a shit. Who can blame them though, I wouldn't give a shit making up to $10 an hour either. I bet those companies have a pretty high turn over rate.

Here are the tires waiting to get loaded. Fronts are 245/40/R18's and the rears are 285/35/R18's. I shouldn't need anything more than a roll in the rear to get these tires to fit, I hope.

[future]

I've loved everything in this build. Everything has been $$$$ but those wheels. I hope they look good on the car cause just the rims, I can't put it into words.

But good luck on those 285s!

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by future

I've loved everything in this build. Everything has been $$$$ but those wheels. I hope they look good on the car cause just the rims, I can't put it into words.

But good luck on those 285s!

So you don't like the wheels? Is that what you are trying to say?

[future]

Basically lol. I keep looking back at them and trying to make them work in my head but I can't haha. But your car your money. What does my opinion matter

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by future

Basically lol. I keep looking back at them and trying to make them work in my head but I can't haha. But your car your money. What does my opinion matter

It doesn't matter, I was just trying to get what you wouldn't say. Its a difference of personal opinions and styles.

[jr_ss]

Wheels are mounted!!! I need to do a little work here and there to get the fitment spot on, but I need a fender roller and some time to do it.

It was is a tight fit with the 285's out back. I have about a 1/4" of space between the coilover and sidewall of the tire. I'll def have to roll the rears if I want to get a bit lower. I have the fronts at -3 on the Tein camber plates, but I couldn't tell you if that is the exact number or not because of the slotted top bolt hole on the KW knuckle mount. Once I get it aligned I'll post exact fitment specs.

A quick comparo between the front and rear tires I swapped from. Fronts 225/40/R18 Dunlop Start Specs, to 245/40/R18 Nitto NT05'S and the rears are 255/40/R18 Eagle F1's, to 285/35/R18 Nitto NT05's.




On the car...

[future]

Finally. Real tire sizes, with proper ride height so no -8282828 degrees of camber and ugly pull. Looks good

[Yellow4g63]

Nice hope I can get 285's on my S14 too.

[holemilk00]

I had the NT05s on my kouki, they run HUGE!!! I came from KDWIIs.

I like the wheel choice man, looks really nice.

[drscooper]

very very nice man! glad to see it coming along nicely!

[Teigen]

any updates?

[drscooper]

VIDEOOOSSS OFFF THIS THING

VIDEOOOOSSS OFFF THIS THING

VIDEOOOSS OFF THIS THING


VIDEEEOOOSSS OF THIS THING!

thanks! lol

[Seraphim38]

My compliments on your build. (We exchanged PMs about GTX3076R turbos).

I didn't do a VVL setup, but did do an HKS solid lifter setup with stage 3 cams, ti retainers, Greddy valve springs and larger valves.

Anyway, I will look forward to your build's competion. Currently I am debating about whether to stay with the T3 .82AR turbine housing that I got with my turbo, or change to a T4 .63AR for quicker spool (since my full race manifold happens to be an undivided T4 and I am hesitant to cut it up into a T3). I expect to have my car built and dyno tuned before the first week in February.

[Matt.]

looks great wish i had extra time to start something like this

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Teigen

any updates?

Read below...

Originally Posted by drscooper

VIDEOOOSSS OFFF THIS THING

VIDEOOOOSSS OFFF THIS THING

VIDEOOOSS OFF THIS THING


VIDEEEOOOSSS OF THIS THING!

thanks! lol

Haha, dude chill... It's gonna be a bit.

Originally Posted by Seraphim38

My compliments on your build. (We exchanged PMs about GTX3076R turbos).

I didn't do a VVL setup, but did do an HKS solid lifter setup with stage 3 cams, ti retainers, Greddy valve springs and larger valves.

Anyway, I will look forward to your build's competion. Currently I am debating about whether to stay with the T3 .82AR turbine housing that I got with my turbo, or change to a T4 .63AR for quicker spool (since my full race manifold happens to be an undivided T4 and I am hesitant to cut it up into a T3). I expect to have my car built and dyno tuned before the first week in February.

I recall the PM's, nice to see you drop by. I would go with the smaller T4 housing as well. Well if you make it run in Feb, you'll be ahead of me and I'll be asking you how you like the turbo.

Originally Posted by Matt.

looks great wish i had extra time to start something like this

Trust me when I say I never planned for it to go this far. Thanks for the kind words...

************************************************** ****


*Update*

So, work has picked up tremendously in the past month or so and my only real day off as of late has been Sundays. I'm also in the process of purchasing or rather attempting to purchase a permanent home. So updates may not be as common as they were months ago.

This Sunday I had a chance to get into the interior of the car and remove the condensor and the blower motor. I am only temporarily removing them to gain access to the harness access point in the firewall from the backside. They will be reinstalled upon the completion of the interior wiring install.

Once they were removed, I lined up and marked the spots I needed to drill for mount my aluminum cannon plug plate. I cut a piece of .062" rubber sheet to isolate and seal the plate to the bulkhead. I don't have any pictures of just the plate installed, but you can get an idea. Once the plate was mounted and secured, I installed the interior side of my ChaseBays harness and routed it accordingly. I am looking for a place to mount my Ignitor as I like the idea of having the body of it grounded like factory.







Once the interior harness section was secured, I flaked out the rest of the engine bay harness to get an idea of how it was designed to run. I ran into a few snags here. One, the CTS plug is the wrong style for the OE S14 SR sensor and Two, my VVL solenoid wires are too short to connect and need to be lengthened by about 10". I don't blame ChaseBays for that as they had no idea where my solenoids were/are located and we simply overlooked that detail when I ordered the harness.







While I had my blower motor out I noticed that the weather seal for the exterior air had deteriorated and was mostly non-existant. So I took the time to clean the entire unit, blow out any and all leaves, dirt, etc, and install some new seal. The exterior of the unit was just wiped down with a wet cloth, no chemicals were really needed.




I also picked up a set of German glass headlights. I am extremely pleased with this purchase. I've heard all the good things about them, but never bought into the hype. Boy was I mistaken. I'm looking forward to getting this installed.






That's all I have at this moment in time, hoping to slowly chomp away at the bit. However, my "deadline" has been pushed back further. As always, thanks for taking the time to read my build.

[Seraphim38]

glad to see the status.

Hey, a point of curiosity: did you run a silicone or cast aluminum elbow between the turbo and intercooler piping? I have seen people do both. I would think that a welded cast elbow would be better but it seems that there's a lot of people out there who run silicone elbows without problems. I searched around and couldn't find anything on the net debating the performance difference.

BTW, I have 275/40/17 Nitto NT05s on the back of my car and they hooked better than anything else I have ever tried, though daily driving will heat cycle them to the point that traction will reduce before the tire tread is gone, and these ship from the factory already shaved for track use.

[ShadowMan]

Nice work. I like how neat your seam sealer job turned out. I'm looking forward to finishing up my engine bay, although it won't be recieving quite as nice a heart as yours. What made you go with the 3M undercoating, as it seems everyone likes that POR15 stuff or whatever its called? Not doubting 3M products, just curious because I will need to purchase some form of under coating soon. Is that king cab getting an sr as well, lol?

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Seraphim38

glad to see the status.

Hey, a point of curiosity: did you run a silicone or cast aluminum elbow between the turbo and intercooler piping? I have seen people do both. I would think that a welded cast elbow would be better but it seems that there's a lot of people out there who run silicone elbows without problems. I searched around and couldn't find anything on the net debating the performance difference.

BTW, I have 275/40/17 Nitto NT05s on the back of my car and they hooked better than anything else I have ever tried, though daily driving will heat cycle them to the point that traction will reduce before the tire tread is gone, and these ship from the factory already shaved for track use.

I used a reinforced silicone 90 for a few reasons. First I didn't want to be welding a pipe fitting on my expensive piece of hardware. That limits potential upgrading/use later down the road. Secondly, I didn't see any potential gains or setbacks by using a silicone coupler there.

I'm sure you mentioned the 275's because you saw I was running 285's. This car won't be daily driven, so I'm not worried about the heat cycles or how long they actually last. My main objective was to get as much rubber under the factory sheet metal in the rear. Now I have some massaging to do to the fender lips.

Originally Posted by ShadowMan

Nice work. I like how neat your seam sealer job turned out. I'm looking forward to finishing up my engine bay, although it won't be recieving quite as nice a heart as yours. What made you go with the 3M undercoating, as it seems everyone likes that POR15 stuff or whatever its called? Not doubting 3M products, just curious because I will need to purchase some form of under coating soon. Is that king cab getting an sr as well, lol?

My car already had undercoating in place in most of the key areas, so I just hit the spots that needed attention.

Haha, no the Hardbody is not getting an SR. It has 250k on its VG-E and purrs like a kitten. It use to be my daily when I was in highschool/college/tech school. It was lowered on 17's and had a bumpin system in the cab. Ah, the good ole days....

[ShadowMan]

I used to have a hardbody back in the day (don't know why I called it a king cab) that I bought from a buddy. It came lowered with gold center cap spinners and all, not my ideal setup but made for loading my street bike a breeze, didn't even need a ramp. Wish I still had it, great truck.

[ali-d1936]

awsome awsome awsome question tho, why are the runners on the IM so long? is there any benifit of it? you wouldnt have major clearance issues if the runners where shorter from the chamber to the port.

[the555car]

Runner length is one of the most important things in manifold design, so yes there is massive benefits to having the correct length (which in this case is longer, shorter moves the powerband higher). I have no idea what rev range this particular manifold was designed for.

Shadowman, POR-15 is awesome for suspension parts/subframes etc, but it would be expensive and time consuming to paint an entire underbody, as it comes in small cans and is brush-on (aerosol may be available but i've never used it).

[ali-d1936]

^^ Cool man cheers, i never knew about that i must Read up on it, i knew there was some reasoning behind it being so long otherwise it could have been designed around the fusebox. thanks again.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by the555car

Shadowman, POR-15 is awesome for suspension parts/subframes etc, but it would be expensive and time consuming to paint an entire underbody, as it comes in small cans and is brush-on (aerosol may be available but i've never used it).

I don't believe they make POR15 in aerosol cans, however it's just as easy to throw it in a HVLP paint gun and spray it on, you may just have to thin it a bit.

Originally Posted by ali-d1936

awsome awsome awsome question tho, why are the runners on the IM so long? is there any benifit of it? you wouldnt have major clearance issues if the runners where shorter from the chamber to the port.

Originally Posted by ali-d1936

^^ Cool man cheers, i never knew about that i must Read up on it, i knew there was some reasoning behind it being so long otherwise it could have been designed around the fusebox. thanks again.

The clearance issue was mainly due to the large plenum size. As stated earlier in the thread, this was Mazworx prototype manifold when they first started producing the VVL swap kits and their first "street" swap was in an S13 hatch. Obviously the S13 doesn't have a large fusebox like the S14's so it wasn't an issue for that car. Since then, they have changed the plenum size to a smaller one and it now clears the factory fusebox in the S14 bay. The runners are a billet piece and are identical among this manifold and their new design. I wasn't about to purchase a new manifold because the fusebox was in the way, so relocating was performed and it cleaned the engine bay up at the same time.

As stated by the555car, runner lengths play a large role, among other things, in manifold design. Obviously, FI cars aren't as touchy as NA cars are with manifold design, but it still has an effect. I too am unaware of the key RPM band this manifold is aimed at, but I suppose I can call Mazworx and ask or I'll find out soon enough. If I had one gripe about the manifold, it would be that the runners aren't long enough. I'd rather sacrafice some high-end power for more low-end grunt, but we aren't dealing with a large liter motor or a V8, so I'll stick with what I have.

[jr_ss]

So, it's been over a month since I updated this. Sadly, I don't really have any progress updates for the build. I've been home a total of 6days in the past month, which cramps my style.

I did send the harness back to have some wires extended and a few plugs changed out for the correct ones. It's nice to state that turn around time for it was quite quick and I had it back at the house in about a week. I did managed to get it back in the car.

I also purchased another S15 Helical diff from KrisKouki to have my 4.63 gears installed on and slapped in a spare S14 diff housing. I'll have the stock 4.083 for the streets and the 4.63 for the drag strip. That should let me get the best use of my gears.

I'll be traveling quite a bit in the next few months so very little will be happening. I hope to get some work done in the limited time I'll have at home.

[Seraphim38]

Good to hear an update. I was travelling for much of January, now am home for February but will be travelling to Hong Kong and China in March on business for at least a couple of weeks.

My GTX3076R/full race/mazworks sleeved block/HKS solid valvetrain/etc. was due to go in and be tuned by today but I decided while it was all out to ditch the SR trans and upgrade to a Z32 trans with Xcessive adapter setup.

I expedited a billet short shifter, heavy duty reinforced clutch fork and pivot ball, new front and rear seals and a few other tidbits to make everything go right. It should all be going in around Wednesday and after minimal fabrication should go to the tuner a couple days later.

While I am looking forward to it being done, I also am not going to cut any corners.

Maybe someone would want me to do my own build thread...