Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[R3b]

Where would a setup a vacuum line for my boost gauge to my manifold for better boost reading, right now I have a line coming from my bov.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

All I'm asking for is basic where to look shit, man. There's no need to rip my fucking car apart looking for god knows what if thousands of other people have already fixed the very same problem on other vehicles. No need for shitty attitude right out the gate, especially when you offer no viable solutions.


The fact that the buzzing intensity and brightness of the light seems tied to the RPM makes me think that something is up with the alternator or a ground associated with the warning light circuit.

Ahhhhhh, now you give even more information about the symptoms.

Your problem is a short in the circuit. Start with the easy stuff, pull the cluster and see if the short is there.
Trace from the alternator to the voltage meter to see if you have a short there. To try to locate the issue, you are going to have to pull the cluster. You could have a bad voltage meter, a short there, or even between the gauge and light in the cluster.
If the alternator is going away, that may be the issue, a bad stator/rotor/brushes etc that is causing a misphase in the circuit.
Either way you look at this issue, you need to pull the cluster to see if your stuff is good there, after checking to see if stuff is good under the hood.

ARE YOU LOW? is your harness tucked right?(this may be your issue, don't know you or your car though) What you describe now, CAN be symptoms of rubbed harness in the fenders. One way or the other, to figure this out, you need your fsm, tools, a multimeter(if rubbed/shorted,, smoked wire isn't obvious), and you have to look for the problem where it can be. The easiest way is by isolating each system, ie, alternator(disconnect from circuit) and cluster(disconnetct) check wires by wire map in fsm to see if they are fine

[ze12o]

Didn't get an answer through the wheel fitment thread just wanted to post here as well

Will this rub?

Stock camber
255/35/18

18x10 +22

would probably lower it another 1/4 - 1/2 inch more before it's out of the shop


Thanks in advance

[240PETER]

Alright so ive done some google searching but i just wana make sure i dont miss any. Does anyone know of a good machine shop i can take my ka24de to in so-cal near la?

[juhd]

getting my transmission rebuilt with new bearings and synchros and was wondering what fluid should i go with?

[TheRealSy90]

Redline MT 90.

[juhd]

Originally Posted by therealsy90

redline mt 90.

75w-90 gl4?

[e1_griego]

yes, that's what mt90 is. That or amsoil gl4.

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by ze12o

Didn't get an answer through the wheel fitment thread just wanted to post here as well

Will this rub?

Stock camber
255/35/18

18x10 +22

would probably lower it another 1/4 - 1/2 inch more before it's out of the shop


Thanks in advance

Assuming you are only talking about the rear, your quarter panels are pulled like mine, and you have spring rates of 10/8 kg like my car used to have when I was running 255/40/18s on 18x9.5 +15 wheels: no it won't rub.

But honestly, the best way to find out is to experiment, get results, and if it fails, do the experiment again with different variables. That's what I do.

[ze12o]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

Assuming you are only talking about the rear, your quarter panels are pulled like mine, and you have spring rates of 10/8 kg like my car used to have when I was running 255/40/18s on 18x9.5 +15 wheels: no it won't rub.

But honestly, the best way to find out is to experiment, get results, and if it fails, do the experiment again with different variables. That's what I do.

Thanks! Just wanted to have an general idea. I would test them but all my windows are missing atm and wanted to get an opinion before it's painted

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by ze12o

Thanks! Just wanted to have an general idea. I would test them but all my windows are missing atm and wanted to get an opinion before it's painted

No problem. Feel free to update us in that same post in case another user has the same general setup and question in the future.

[tacobellman_2007]

What car is on the left here?



I'm 90% sure the one in the middle is a Mazda RX2 after a bunch of searching, right is an AE86 of course, but I can't seem to find anything on the left car. All the cars that pop up don't have the same front end. Thought it might be a Celica or another Mazda, but no luck for me. Thanks guys.

[Adam.G]

I just recently picked up an SR for my S13 with a top mount turbo. I've been looking for some quality aftermarket elbow and downpipe. Can someone please point me in a good direction on where to find some? when i searched only thing i could really find was a website called ProTuningLab.com are they any good? or where else can i find some? I looked on FRSport and Enjuku and didn't see anything really, but maybe i wasn't looking hard enough.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

What car is on the left here?



I'm 90% sure the one in the middle is a Mazda RX2 after a bunch of searching, right is an AE86 of course, but I can't seem to find anything on the left car. All the cars that pop up don't have the same front end. Thought it might be a Celica or another Mazda, but no luck for me. Thanks guys.

Taco, from the front it looks like an old Datsun 210. Celica's had dual headlights. Your RX2 could be an early RX3 as well. Too bad you don;t have better photos. Old metal kicks ass!(Been thinking about a old Datsun B210 fastback, 1975 or so, with a KA24DE transplant from a 240 for a while now...1700# car...)

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by Adam.G

I just recently picked up an SR for my S13 with a top mount turbo. I've been looking for some quality aftermarket elbow and downpipe. Can someone please point me in a good direction on where to find some? when i searched only thing i could really find was a website called ProTuningLab.com are they any good? or where else can i find some? I looked on FRSport and Enjuku and didn't see anything really, but maybe i wasn't looking hard enough.

Custom Job.

Since there are so many variations on turbo/manifold combinations when dealing with a top-mount your almost always looking at something custom.

Top Mount = Big Power = Big Money

[godrifttoday]

powder coating calipers los angeles?

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Taco, from the front it looks like an old Datsun 210. Celica's had dual headlights. Your RX2 could be an early RX3 as well. Too bad you don;t have better photos. Old metal kicks ass!(Been thinking about a old Datsun B210 fastback, 1975 or so, with a KA24DE transplant from a 240 for a while now...1700# car...)

Found out it's a Toyota TE27 "Mango." haha yeah, these old Japanese classic cars are awesome. You should do it! Sounds like it would be a fun project.

[JrDarknes]

My manual windows were stiff as hell trying to roll down this morning. Tried rolling it back up and my window wasent moving, took off the door card and I see this cable hanging loose. What could be broken??

[David48]

So I'm having this issue on an 89 S13 coupe. I've had it before on a 94 vert and an 89 hatch so I know it's some kind of a common problem. The car has a dohc KA swap but I don't believe that's relevant.
Whenever I remove the key, it's like the car still thinks it's in acc mode. The seat belts still retract with the key out when I close the door, and whatever warning lights that are relevant will stay lit on the gauge cluster(seat belt light and ebrake light at least). As I'm writing this I'm beginning to think it's the ign switch so I'm gonna go try replacing that right now.

[David48]

Originally Posted by David48

So I'm having this issue on an 89 S13 coupe. I've had it before on a 94 vert and an 89 hatch so I know it's some kind of a common problem. The car has a dohc KA swap but I don't believe that's relevant.
Whenever I remove the key, it's like the car still thinks it's in acc mode. The seat belts still retract with the key out when I close the door, and whatever warning lights that are relevant will stay lit on the gauge cluster(seat belt light and ebrake light at least). As I'm writing this I'm beginning to think it's the ign switch so I'm gonna go try replacing that right now.

Ign switch did nothing. But now that I think about, none of these 3 cars had functioning radios. Could it have something to do with the radio wiring being hacked up?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by David48

Ign switch did nothing. But now that I think about, none of these 3 cars had functioning radios. Could it have something to do with the radio wiring being hacked up?

Sounds like a dirty cluster. I took the one out of my 93 SER when it was doing the same thing. You might have a short in your cluster. Open, clean, inspect(use magnifying glass) and you might find a small break in the circuit path. Simply solder it using heat sinks and a micro circuit soldering iron...or you can send it out, but that gets expensive, and everything is available through either nissanpartszone.com or other locations. It's cheaper to replace all the internal parts yourself and buying the small tools to do it

[David48]

I know it's not a cluster problem, I've already replaced it with a good working one. The cluster lights staying on is a just a symptom. The real problem is that the car still thinks that it's in ACC mode even when the key is out.

[smoove]

hey guys had a quick question on oil pan pros and cons. I've searched and cant find much topic on keeping factory over aftermarket. I'm building an s13 sr and am not going to track it so I was wondering if there is any real benefit with going aftermarket. I've read that the sr's weak point is oil pick up so I have gone with the s14 pick up, but need some input on oil pan. Thanks in advanced.

[jmax240]

Anyone know if the plastic tubes on the heater core are the same for an S13 or S14? I know the heater cores are different but I'm wondering if the tubes are the same or bolt up the same even if they have slightly different angles out of the firewall.

Thanks,

[Cold Sake]

Hey guys, have a question because im stumped, have been working on an idle/timing problem. replaced iacv, then tps and it finally idiling correctly. anyway was doing the timing w/o maf plugged in and a buddy of mine gave it some throttle and it died. it wont turn on anymore. it was running rich so i left it alone for a weekend thinking it might be flooded, tried to do the timing today and it still wouldnt start. any ideas on what to do?? She will crank but wont turn over, im trynna get it out of my buddys drive way and home lol

[brandenkenn]

So I'm pretty sure my s13's ka24de developed a rod knock today, and I'm just going to swap a new engine after I make sure it is a rod knock. I'm in college and I'm on a tight budget. Obviously, another ka24de is probably the cheapest swap, but does anyone else have any suggestions? I was considering a 2jz-ge from an is300, or even something crazy like the 302 my dad already owns (free engines are always a good possibility), although it would probably be very complicated. Let me know what you guys think

[Lompang]

Would these spark plugs be good for a KA24DET running at 10 PSI on a T28? Should I get 6 on my setup?

[Slicerwolf]

My car is building boost according the gauge (oddly early too) but it's like the car stops accelerating when I go under boost.

[Slicerwolf]

Also it's over boosting and staying at lower RPMS if I fully depress the throttle.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by David48

I know it's not a cluster problem, I've already replaced it with a good working one. The cluster lights staying on is a just a symptom. The real problem is that the car still thinks that it's in ACC mode even when the key is out.

You'll need to pull the key barrel, and maybe even the steering stalk. More than likely it's the barrel. A new set is $300+, and finding a good used set that isn;t in a working car is not easy, but doable if you need to swap them out. Other option is SOME locksmiths are good enough to refresh them.

Originally Posted by smoove

hey guys had a quick question on oil pan pros and cons. I've searched and cant find much topic on keeping factory over aftermarket. I'm building an s13 sr and am not going to track it so I was wondering if there is any real benefit with going aftermarket. I've read that the sr's weak point is oil pick up so I have gone with the s14 pick up, but need some input on oil pan. Thanks in advanced.

SR weak point is in the head. Rocker stops, and stronger parts will give you reliability and prevent your valvetrain from busting when you screw up a downshift. As to the oil pan, anytime you can go bigger, it is worth it. Engine runs cooler, but make sure you get one with good baffles for hard cornering or launches...and don't say you won't do this, because you know you will.

Originally Posted by jmax240

Anyone know if the plastic tubes on the heater core are the same for an S13 or S14? I know the heater cores are different but I'm wondering if the tubes are the same or bolt up the same even if they have slightly different angles out of the firewall.

Thanks,

FMS's show those to be the same part from 93 - 96( '93 Sentra SER, 96 zenki, 97 kouki all show the same part although numbers are updated)

hit up nissanpartszone.com to find it