DIY Boost Leak Tester

[slider2828]

I guess people aren't sure how to use it and how to simply construct a tool without drilling something..... Cool you used your boost controller to look at leakage and also remove the crank case breather to turbo, LOL. Wooops I didn't do this.....

Are you suppose to remove the PCV as well and cap it as well? My boost solenoid for my external waste also is completely open all the time too? That middle port....

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by slider2828

I guess people aren't sure how to use it and how to simply construct a tool without drilling something..... Cool you used your boost controller to look at leakage and also remove the crank case breather to turbo, LOL. Wooops I didn't do this.....

Are you suppose to remove the PCV as well and cap it as well? My boost solenoid for my external waste also is completely open all the time too? That middle port....

I'm trying to understand your questions because I need to see where my video could be improved.

1. I am not sure what you mean by boost controller. I used a boost gauge to look at boost pressure in the manifold. And There is a pressure gauge on the air compressor to look at pressure going into the turbo cover.
Where did you see a boost controller?

2. If you don't remove crankcase breather and put pressure into the crankcase it could blow out engine oil seals. It will also leak boost into crankcase which will find exits such as dipstick and weak gaskets creating more leaking while blowing out the seals. It would show up as a leak. The crankcase should be pressure tested separately and only to about 1psi or so to find leaks. You can use your mouth to blow into the crankcase then hold air inside it like a balloon for a simple fast easy test to see if it has any major leaks.

3. I did not cap the pcv. I only popped out the pcv valve to see if it was faulty. The pcv valve is a checkvalve. It should hold boost and prevent boost from leaking. But if they go bad it will leak boost out and show up as a leak. That is the point of the pressure test- finding leaks. So you need to know if the pcv valve is leaking or not. If you don't pull it out during the test you might not be able to tell if it is leaking from inside the intake and it will pressurize the crankcase, meaning you have to listen to the crankcase and check the crankcase for pressure as it will let you know the pcv valve is leaking into the crankcase since you did not remove it for the test.

4. Boost solenoid
1. put a filter on the open port, buy the 1/8" NPT or 1/8 NBPST or whatever it is called to screw into the solenoid so it does not accumulate trash.
2. It should not leak while the controller and engine is off. I've never had that problem. Maybe some types could leak but it is easy enough to block the hose with a bolt if needed.

[tunermt]

Originally Posted by slider2828

I guess people aren't sure how to use it and how to simply construct a tool without drilling something..... Cool you used your boost controller to look at leakage and also remove the crank case breather to turbo, LOL. Wooops I didn't do this.....

Are you suppose to remove the PCV as well and cap it as well? My boost solenoid for my external waste also is completely open all the time too? That middle port....

Boost leak test MUST be done on with all crank case/valve cover vents removed from the intake/turbo inlet. (DO NOT pressurize your crank case that will lead to many more issues. This is the same for all engines.)

1. Example for SR/RB using a MAF: connect the boost leak tester pre MAF (this checks for post MAF/pre turbo leaks + boost leaks post turbo).
   
2. Example for SR/RB using MAP (speed density): Connect the boost leak tester to the turbo inlet.
   
3. System should hold boost with only a VERY slow leak of 1-2psi over 3-5 seconds.

As mentioned doing a proper boost leak test is 101 for any turbo engine and one of the most overlooked miss understood processes around.