How To: DIY Paint and Body work

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by blueshark123

The cheapest price i found for online body shop supplies is stockwiseauto.com I also have a 5% off code that is savewise2012 i believe. I actually just found out they are only 10 mins from me so I can do pick ups instead of shipping.

I will still recommend a nice wet sand with 1800 to 2000 grit (correct me if im wrong) at the end with a compound/buff.

Im by no means a body guy I have just been getting into learning how to do bodywork lately. Can you explain how to compund and what tools and brands you would recommend on that. I have been looking into wizards I really like some off their products or i can just get 3m.

I will contribute to the thread when i fix my dash on how to fix cracks. I have done that with great results in the past.
I like to use lord fuzor 152 to fix the crack then sem texture coat. Then finish it off with sem black trim paint. It comes out perfect.

wet sanding is ok but i have found that dry sanding with 3m 1000grit and higher seems to be better to work with. Buffing and compound usage: i like to use about a inch to a inch and half ribbon of compound, use my pad to spread it out and buff a square foot at a time. You have to keep the buffer moving a bit to keep the temp down or you wiill get burn thru. Ill do a write up when i get around to buffing the hachi. Never used wizards but you cant go wrong with 3m..... fusor products are the best. Inline filters, i just use disposable ones right now

[blueshark123]

oh also any recommendations on inline water filters for the compressor

[SMM]

For the most part I agree with your methods.

I do tinting differently. I use a base black and reduce it to desired shade spray on. Just be careful not to reduce it to much or it will react, then clear. A lot easier to do different shades.1 Because if you keep spraying it the way you said to make it darker the clear will eventually run. 2. If you do it my way you can reduce it pretty light and recoat until you get the shade you want (paint dries faster so u can recoat quicker and save clear) 3. They wont look as shiny because you have paint mixed in the clear.

( If you have foggy headlights wet sand outside good with 1000 grit then clear, they will look almost brand new)

Also want to add, there are clears you reduce and clears you do not reduce. I always wet sand final coat in this order (nice cars) 1000,1500,2000,3000. Then hit it with compound and polish. In addition I use 2k primer over body work mostly (thicker) helps give it an even surface, I always wetsand 2k primer with 600 then 800.

Another thing to note is they make different hardeners for clears depending on temps. Slow, Medium, Spot and Panel which is fast.

I know prices vary in different areas but around my area I can get 1 gallon matrix clear with medium hardener for $100 and a 1gallon of Martin Senour Paint for $80(napa) just get a vin with the color you like call dealer get paint code.

If you are on a budget that is your best bet. I work for a body shop and that is what we use on our cheaper jobs and to be honest they look amazing.


I have done side jobs with that clear/paint/ and a harbor freight gun and people didnt believe me because it looked so damn good. I will post up pictures when I get a chance. For the most part its all about getting the clear down good and then a nice wetsand and buff.


A few final notes. Never use enamel. When using metallic paint stir bottom of can VERY GOOD so it mixes evenly and shake, shaking the can alone will not cut it a good portion of the flakes stick to the bottom. 3M products are very good and reasonably priced.

That is all for now.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by SMM

For the most part I agree with your methods.

I do tinting differently. I use a base black and reduce it to desired shade spray on. Just be careful not to reduce it to much or it will react, then clear. A lot easier to do different shades.1 Because if you keep spraying it the way you said to make it darker the clear will eventually run. 2. If you do it my way you can reduce it pretty light and recoat until you get the shade you want (paint dries faster so u can recoat quicker and save clear) 3. They wont look as shiny because you have paint mixed in the clear.

( If you have foggy headlights wet sand outside good with 1000 grit then clear, they will look almost brand new)

Also want to add, there are clears you reduce and clears you do not reduce. I always wet sand final coat in this order (nice cars) 1000,1500,2000,3000. Then hit it with compound and polish. In addition I use 2k primer over body work mostly (thicker) helps give it an even surface, I always wetsand 2k primer with 600 then 800.

Another thing to note is they make different hardeners for clears depending on temps. Slow, Medium, Spot and Panel which is fast.

I know prices vary in different areas but around my area I can get 1 gallon matrix clear with medium hardener for $100 and a 1gallon of Martin Senour Paint for $80(napa) just get a vin with the color you like call dealer get paint code.

If you are on a budget that is your best bet. I work for a body shop and that is what we use on our cheaper jobs and to be honest they look amazing.


I have done side jobs with that clear/paint/ and a harbor freight gun and people didnt believe me because it looked so damn good. I will post up pictures when I get a chance. For the most part its all about getting the clear down good and then a nice wetsand and buff.


A few final notes. Never use enamel. When using metallic paint stir bottom of can VERY GOOD so it mixes evenly and shake, shaking the can alone will not cut it a good portion of the flakes stick to the bottom. 3M products are very good and reasonably priced.

That is all for now.

Thanks for the input, I would like more people to post information as well. Try to add pictures next time. Tinting can be done so many different ways, use whatever works for your project. I have found that spraying base coat onto the plastic tends to make it look more like the rattle can look vs the smoked or tinted lens look. 2k products are a must if you want a quality paint job.

[SMM]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

Thanks for the input, I would like more people to post information as well. Try to add pictures next time. Tinting can be done so many different ways, use whatever works for your project. I have found that spraying base coat onto the plastic tends to make it look more like the rattle can look vs the smoked or tinted lens look. 2k products are a must if you want a quality paint job.

If you reduce it enough you will not get that look.

Here are some random pics from my cell:

Friends SRT 8:
Painted a lot of stuff black.





Tinted tails, dirty in pic.


Supra I helped with:



Not streaks in the hood. Beams on roof.


350Z 350th Anniversary rims:


Civic engine bay:




My ZX10R:













Jet SKI's:
Before

After


My GSXR:

Pearl really doesnt show in crappy pics. Looked super nice in person.




Not my style but hey money is money:

[C. Anderson]

^What color are those 350z wheels? Nice work btw.

[P-Funk alot]

ok i have a couple questions.
1. are some colors easier to spray than others
2. is there a change in method for metallic and candy paints
3. have you ever used a prism clear
4. and finally when you use metal flake is that sprayed with the clear.

thanks in advance i plan on painting my car here in the next 2-3 weeks.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by P-Funk alot

ok i have a couple questions.
1. are some colors easier to spray than others
2. is there a change in method for metallic and candy paints
3. have you ever used a prism clear
4. and finally when you use metal flake is that sprayed with the clear.

thanks in advance i plan on painting my car here in the next 2-3 weeks.

1 some colors cover easier than others but I don't think any of them spray differently. Make sure when you buy your paint you buy the correct sealer color this will make spraying much easier.
2 yes candy and metallics are hard to spray it takes skill and practice. When spraying metallics they tend to streak or blotch on the surface, to fix this go back over the areas but back your distance from the surface off a few inches more, it should look a bit lighter when your spraying it. When I spray candies I'll do a few coats at different angles on the car because candies will streak and look like crap when your spray clear so this helps make sure there are no streaks.
3 never heard of a prism clear
4 if you spray it with the clear I would do only one coat and then do two coats of normal clear over that. Most of the time you end up sanding and buffing and the last thing you want is metallics in your surface while polishing. Or you can spray it using a clear base coat and then spray clear over it

[Jybfan04]

Best step by step DIY paint thread on here...

There is another one, but doesn't really touch on the body aspect of it..

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by Jybfan04

Best step by step DIY paint thread on here...

There is another one, but doesn't really touch on the body aspect of it..

Thanks man, I try to be as detailed as possible without being right there with them. I plan on adding many more posts when I have time to start back on my projects.

[SMM]

IMO CANDY and Silver are somewhat challenging to spray. But I mean if you know what you are doing you will be fine.

[1gr8bar10der]

Subscribed! I'm going to paint my car next month. Glad your thread came in handy

[PureRush]

Good stuff very helpful!! What do you recommend for candy paints? Do you have to spray two different base coats then clear coat?

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by PureRush

Good stuff very helpful!! What do you recommend for candy paints? Do you have to spray two different base coats then clear coat?

When you buy the candy paints they should tell you what base coat goes on underneath .....most likely a light color or some form of gold or silver. So the base goes on first then the candy and then your clear coat. Candy paints are basically a transparent base coat almost like a clear coat

[buentellomma]

How To: Paint JDM AE86 Front and Rear bumpers in your garage
Step 1: Scuff sand the raw plastic bumpers with 320 grit or a red scotch brite pad. Use soap and water to clean the bumpers before hanging them to be painted. After drying the bumpers and hanging them for paint, wipe them with wax and grease remover to clean off any residue.


Step 2: Use a tack rag to remove any dust that may have settled on the plastic( as you wipe them static will built up and attract dust). the bumpers are now ready to be sprayed with a primer sealer. Apply two light coats if you spray it too wet it will run.

Step 3: after allowing the sealer to dry for 20-30 mins, spray the first base coat color on the areas that require ( these bumpers have paint lines already in the plastic) also apply the base coat in light to medium wet coats or it will run or wrinkle.



Step 4: after allowing the base coat to dry for at least an hour ( warmer temp will take less time an hour is a safe timeline) use masking tape to mask off the paint lines in the plastic.


Step 5: spray the black base coat on the rest of the bumper, apply light to medium wet coats. after the black is fully covered, allow the base coat to dry for 20-30mins and then remove the masked areas. once all the masking is removed, it is now ready for clear coat. apply 2-3 coats of clear coat.

[upsdude]

I've had to remove large amounts of filler from both quarter panels, and my front fender. should i cover the bare metal with primer first then use filler?

or use filler on the bare metal then primer? i was thinking of using etching primer first just b ecause i don't want to have any problems with the metal rusting.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by upsdude

I've had to remove large amounts of filler from both quarter panels, and my front fender. should i cover the bare metal with primer first then use filler?

or use filler on the bare metal then primer? i was thinking of using etching primer first just b ecause i don't want to have any problems with the metal rusting.

its fine to apply bodyfiller to bare metal, rust under the bodyfiller only happens if water is absorbed into the filler. if you are going to work the filler and then prime it ,corrosion wont be an issue. the issue with primer is that the UV rays from the sun break down the primer and will allow water to be absorbed. when you prime it , its best to base/ clear it soon.

[upsdude]

with respect to primer, i was planning to wait a few days for the primer to properly cure and shrink before doing color (found this tip on one of the auto body forums).

so should i go with a regular 2k primer or the thicker primer to help fill the low spots? i want to use as little filler as possible.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by upsdude

with respect to primer, i was planning to wait a few days for the primer to properly cure and shrink before doing color (found this tip on one of the auto body forums).

so should i go with a regular 2k primer or the thicker primer to help fill the low spots? i want to use as little filler as possible.

2k primer with about 2-3 coats. you dont want the primer to be thick because when you base and clear it you will be able to see where the primer is under the paint due to the thickness. primer is not designed for filling low spots, when you sanding your bodyfiller, dust some rattle can black on the filler and sand. this will find your low spots and deep scratches. to reduce swelling of sand scratches, use this method( use 36grit to level the filler to the surface, then use 80 grit to finish shaping. apply another thin coat of filler over the area and use 80grit to level it and finish up with 180grit. 180grit or finer is less likely to swell) after priming if you allow it to cure 2-3 days the primer will be good to go. to use less filler you will have to metal work it to its almost perfect. your filler should never be more than 1/4inch thick

[upsdude]

ok thanks! yeah the filler was about 1/2 inch thick

i should get some pics but there were holes near the edge of the qp where it meets with the door-you could tell someone used a slide hammer try to pull the dent out. it's in a spot that i won't be able to get with a dolly (first time doing bodywork btw wish me luck lol). at one point i was going to just put an over fender but i'll -try- save the stock metal first

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by upsdude

ok thanks! yeah the filler was about 1/2 inch thick

i should get some pics but there were holes near the edge of the qp where it meets with the door-you could tell someone used a slide hammer try to pull the dent out. it's in a spot that i won't be able to get with a dolly (first time doing bodywork btw wish me luck lol). at one point i was going to just put an over fender but i'll -try- save the stock metal first

the best thing to use is a weld on stud puller/gun. if you have holes in your metal they need to be welded up
Motor Guard JO1000 Magna-Spot 1000 Kit

[upsdude]

ok thanks for the tip. that's the thing that gets me the most though. finding all this hidden damage makes me want to just part what i have and look for a cleaner platform to start over on. i don't want to start spending a bunch of money on tools and stuff that i'm only going to use once. here's what i'm working with:








and when you run your hand over that area it's very dimply :P

[buentellomma]

That's a pretty tuff repair for someone inexperienced.... Looks like it was hit pretty hard. That really low spot around the door jam is going to have to be pulled back out. Does the door jam have a kink or buldge in it? If you push on. The metal does it pop?

[upsdude]

the door felt solid last time i checked but i'll look again. for whatever reason that area wasnt pulled out properly (as you can see).

[dpritchard4]

i really want to attempt to spray my bumper (since its black and dosnt match my red car) so can someone give me an idea of exactly what i need to pain the bumper? it would be nice to just walk into napa and ask for everything line by line and get a quote.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by dpritchard4

i really want to attempt to spray my bumper (since its black and dosnt match my red car) so can someone give me an idea of exactly what i need to pain the bumper? it would be nice to just walk into napa and ask for everything line by line and get a quote.

not sure if you can buy automotive paint at napa but heres your list:
pint of the color you need( base coat)
pint of sealer
half gal of clear coat
mixing sticks and strainers
mixing cups
320grit sand paper
wax and grease remover
tack rag
automotive wipes
air compressor
spray gun
respirator

[RB180sxChris]

Good thread =)

[ma.jomaa]

Awesome thread, I'll be painting my car in the garage soon and I've never painted a car before your step by stop DIY will definitely come in handy.

[fliprayzin240sx]

I cant remember if I asked you this on Sumospeed already but, do you paint other peoples cars on the side or you only do your own cars? Sucks when you live in an apt.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

I cant remember if I asked you this on Sumospeed already but, do you paint other peoples cars on the side or you only do your own cars? Sucks when you live in an apt.

Yeah i paint others before mine, im not taking on another project til i get time to get my hatch going again.