RB FAQ

[eklips3]

Originally Posted by 951's 330i

Na i dont even know how to do that. Can i use any regular scanner? Imma search it right now

all you need is the ecu and a flathead

[MyRBpissesMeOff]

Hey guys Im new and my RB20 alternator just went out (along with alot of other problems) but anyway I have 3 questions for right now. The first is Im in the middle of replacing it but I cant find the damn pulley belt tensioner. I have taken all the bolts off except for the bottom bolt on the alternator but I cant figure out how to loosen the damn belt!

second I got my replacement alternator off ebay and one of the ground bolts is in a different spot than my old alternator. So Im thinking its from an rb25, will it still fit? I'll try and post pics soon.

and lastly, my car was dead on the street outside my house so I put in the new battery to drive it into my garage to work on, (took it off right after of course) It started up perfectly and all electrical worked but when I took my foot off the clutch it died, and no my car was not in gear lol it was in neutral. I tried it a couple more times but it kept doing the same thing.

Any help would be much appreciated thanks guys.

Oh and this "excellent" swap was done by the crooks at unnatural for those of you that heard lol.

[951's 330i]

Originally Posted by eklips3

all you need is the ecu and a flathead

Are you serious?? Lol I just looked at it and have no idea how the hell that would work

[eklips3]

Originally Posted by MyRBpissesMeOff

Hey guys Im new and my RB20 alternator just went out (along with alot of other problems) but anyway I have 3 questions for right now. The first is Im in the middle of replacing it but I cant find the damn pulley belt tensioner. I have taken all the bolts off except for the bottom bolt on the alternator but I cant figure out how to loosen the damn belt!

second I got my replacement alternator off ebay and one of the ground bolts is in a different spot than my old alternator. So Im thinking its from an rb25, will it still fit? I'll try and post pics soon.

and lastly, my car was dead on the street outside my house so I put in the new battery to drive it into my garage to work on, (took it off right after of course) It started up perfectly and all electrical worked but when I took my foot off the clutch it died, and no my car was not in gear lol it was in neutral. I tried it a couple more times but it kept doing the same thing.

Any help would be much appreciated thanks guys.

Oh and this "excellent" swap was done by the crooks at unnatural for those of you that heard lol.

you mean you took off the bottom bolt that holds the alternator on ??
the tensioner is the longest bolt that you probably took off from the actual alternator bracket. that long bolt is connected to a little block that has another small bolt going through it. and that is what your tensioner is composed of.

your rb25 alternator will work. you might of saved some money by just getting your alternator rebuilt at a alternator shop.

as for your problem when you let off the clutch and the car turns off ....... no idea sorry.

[eklips3]

Originally Posted by 951's 330i

Are you serious?? Lol I just looked at it and have no idea how the hell that would work

this is what you need ----> RB20DET and r32 GTST info - Northwest Nissans

[MyRBpissesMeOff]

Yea I did already take off the bolt that goes through the slider bracket. But the belt is still tight and is blocking the bottom bolt on the alternator which is the last bolt holding it in right now.

Thanks

[eklips3]

Originally Posted by MyRBpissesMeOff

Yea I did already take off the bolt that goes through the slider bracket. But the belt is still tight and is blocking the bottom bolt on the alternator which is the last bolt holding it in right now.

Thanks

bottom bolt on the alternator ?
you mean the bolt that attaches the alternator to the engine block ?

if the belt is still tight and you have all the necessary bolts out then you can easily force the alternator downward to loosen the belt

[951's 330i]

After trying to view the ecu, couldnt get much. No matter what way i turned the dial, it just kept blinking in this order: 1p 2p 3p 4p 5p and then 3 fast ones.

Recorded a video of how the car is acting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZkw-L5DRVQ

Dont know how to have just the video on here so posted the link

[eklips3]

Originally Posted by 951's 330i

After trying to view the ecu, couldnt get much. No matter what way i turned the dial, it just kept blinking in this order: 1p 2p 3p 4p 5p and then 3 fast ones.

Recorded a video of how the car is acting.

YouTube - Movie_0001.wmv

Dont know how to have just the video on here so posted the link

what do the p's stand for ? pause ?

so thats what goin on with your car hey ... judging by the video im stumped right now, im not sure what that behaviour could indicate

[951's 330i]

Originally Posted by eklips3

what do the p's stand for ? pause ?

so thats what goin on with your car hey ... judging by the video im stumped right now, im not sure what that behaviour could indicate

Yeah they meant pause. Sorry lol.

Ok well yesterday i decided to take of the IM just to clean it if it was dirty. To my surprise it wasnt that dirty at all, no carbon build up really.

But after i removed, i found a sensor unplugged under iut. I think its a knock sensor or something like that. Theres two of them, one on each side, and the one closest to the fron of the car was unplugged.

I know for sure i didnt take it off, and i doubt i tapped it off when i was taking the IM off so im wonderin if it came off on its own sometime before or was never connected. Im wondering if this is why the car would turn off, maybe it was detecting a problem with it unplugged so it shut off the motor to prevent any damage??

Idk, ill post any info once i put it back together and let you guys know if anything changes.

Thanks again

[951's 330i]

Ok update. SO got everything plugged up and connected. No difference at all. It just started reving high at idle though until it turned off. Like at 1500 then gradually went down to 1300 and stayed.

[MyRBpissesMeOff]

Ok Im a dumbass and completely thought that the belt was blocking the last bolt. I gave it another shot today and realized it worked lol. anyway I got the alternator out and was putting the new one in when all I had left to do was reconnect the grounds when I realized that my ground didnt fit over the new alternator ground bolt.

so how easy is it to splice a new ground with the wires?

[roboticnissan]

I have another bogging down question. I changed my spark plugs to try to fix my bogg and now it only bogs once my motor warms up completley. Any help would be greatly appreciated oh and the spark plugs I'm using are ngk r bkr5e 11

[SilS13Coupe]

My rb20 tranny sometimes is a bit hard to get into 2nd gear. My buddy said its the slave and master going out? could this be the issue?

Also how many qts of oil do the rb20 take?

[bardabe]

Originally Posted by 951's 330i

If they do work with OEM parts then thats were im going to be headed.


Hey bardabe, do you think you could do a quick look over at my wiring. I just looked at the ecu wiring and that ish looks all F'ed up. Plus i see some wires that arent event connected to eachother. Let me know if you have time just to give me your opinion on them. Thanks

yeah no problem PM me, so we can figure out a date and time.

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

I'm definitely thinking about it lol. LSx coils would be preferable, but like I posted above, I'm not sure if they're compatible. They're half price of new OEM Nissan coilpacks though, so I'm very tempted to try.



Juan's one of the only people (besides myself ) that I'd recommend for wiring and technical troubleshooting, consider this a *vouch* for Bardabe Perf Development!

the cheapest way to go about it would be with the Grand National set up. I have spark plug wire making tools. you just gotta order the wires and boots from Summit racing.

Call me later today i want to try something out with an RB car to eliminate the Igniter all together

[bardabe]

Originally Posted by roboticnissan

I have another bogging down question. I changed my spark plugs to try to fix my bogg and now it only bogs once my motor warms up completley. Any help would be greatly appreciated oh and the spark plugs I'm using are ngk r bkr5e 11

Wrong Plugs that's why, they are too hot. get NGK BKR7EIX-11

if you can get a hold of some PFR6B-11B's that would be the best plug but are now discontinued.

[roboticnissan]

Originally Posted by bardabe

Wrong Plugs that's why, they are too hot. get NGK BKR7EIX-11

if you can get a hold of some PFR6B-11B's that would be the best plug but are now discontinued.

The engine was running just fine when the swap was done with the heat range 5 plugs but I will try to get a hold of 7's.

[ETHANOLED SR]

I am going to move on from the SR to the RB setup and I was looking at the RB25DET NEO 6 motor for my S13. I've been through this whole thread and learned a lot about RB's that I didn't know before, but I couldn't find much info on the RB NEO 6. My main concern is, can I get aftermarket parts for this motor just like the RB25? Does it use the same standalone as the RB25DET would use? Greddy mani, injectors, and so on? BTW, my goal is the 500hp mark, mostly track driven only. Thanks in advance!

[lonelydrifter]

dont waste your money on the NEO just get a regular old RB25 and use the extra money to make it roar.

Or go balls out for the RB26. I only say this because I have one in my R32 and love it!!!

[eklips3]

yeah you can get the same parts for the neo rb25 they will all work.

but i agree with lonleydrifter , if you want to build up a rb25 then just buy and older series 1 or 2 rb25. you'll save money by doing that and you can buy bigger and better stuff.

[ETHANOLED SR]

^^^So for an RB that's going to be modded, I shouldn't waste the money on the neo version?

[eklips3]

Originally Posted by ETHANOLED SR

^^^So for an RB that's going to be modded, I shouldn't waste the money on the neo version?

i wouldnt say a neo is a waste of money.
dont get me wrong it is the better motor since it is newer . but if you want to reach around 500 whp then you are going to have to tear it down and replace parts internally, like pistons , connecting rods , head work and all that.

so if you have to do that , might as well find a cheaper rb25

[eh?]

Originally Posted by eklips3

yeah you can get the same parts for the neo rb25 they will all work.

That is not true, the neo has different ecu pin layout, pistons, cams, pull style clutch, etc that you can't use in the S1 or S2. If I had to do it over again I'd get the neo over the R33 because it already has solid lifters and much more beefy rods. Finding a moderately priced clutch is a problem though you can convert to push.

[951's 330i]

Update:
Thanks to bardabe, my car is running better then before, told me the crappy ass wiring that was done before. Thing runs sooo good now, no studder no nothing. Anyone need any help at all, hit this guy up. Hes the legit azz Faaaaaa lol Thanks again bro, and thanks to everyone that was trying to help me as well

[ETHANOLED SR]

Originally Posted by eh?

That is not true, the neo has different ecu pin layout, pistons, cams, pull style clutch, etc that you can't use in the S1 or S2. If I had to do it over again I'd get the neo over the R33 because it already has solid lifters and much more beefy rods. Finding a moderately priced clutch is a problem though you can convert to push.

Thanks for the input!

[eklips3]

Originally Posted by 951's 330i

Update:
Thanks to bardabe, my car is running better then before, told me the crappy ass wiring that was done before. Thing runs sooo good now, no studder no nothing. Anyone need any help at all, hit this guy up. Hes the legit azz Faaaaaa lol Thanks again bro, and thanks to everyone that was trying to help me as well

good to hear you're back on the road dude ! !

Originally Posted by eh?

That is not true, the neo has different ecu pin layout, pistons, cams, pull style clutch, etc that you can't use in the S1 or S2. If I had to do it over again I'd get the neo over the R33 because it already has solid lifters and much more beefy rods. Finding a moderately priced clutch is a problem though you can convert to push.

thanks for the correction, i never really knew it was that different.
i assume all the bolt on mods for early rb25 would still work for the Neo right ?

[eh?]

Originally Posted by eklips3

good to hear you're back on the road dude ! !




thanks for the correction, i never really knew it was that different.
i assume all the bolt on mods for early rb25 would still work for the Neo right ?

Most will but things like the cas won't fit, ignitors are different, you can use the greddy im but you need the r33 iacv to retain idle control as the neo iacv won't bolt up. Exhaust manifolds will work.

It's really what the R33 RB25 should have been.

[Sileighty_85]

If anyone was wondering
I found the rubber grommets for the RB25 Valve cover

Turns out the 93 Infiniti J30's Intake valve cover uses the same setup as the RB

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

If anyone was wondering
I found the rubber grommets for the RB25 Valve cover

Turns out the 93 Infiniti J30's Intake valve cover uses the same setup as the RB

Nice, however I found that Ray @ West Co Nissan had them in stock, along with everything else I needed for my RB (gaskets, valve seals, N1 pumps, all of that).

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Nice, however I found that Ray @ West Co Nissan had them in stock, along with everything else I needed for my RB (gaskets, valve seals, N1 pumps, all of that).

Yeah i know but they want 3.00 EA for them and when you need 20 of them that alot of money for some grommets

I found them on the web for 1.00 EA soo much cheaper