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Old 11-14-2013, 10:44 PM   #15391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thedriftbadger View Post
I didn't tuck mine as high as yours is in the pic. Doesn't rub at all though, it's still higher up than the metal. (ignore the ghettoness, it's much cleaner now lol)


And as you can see, i'm pretty damn low. Not even close to touching the harness.
Ahhhhhh you hammered down the edges that were sticking out to sit the wiring lower! At least that's what it looks like and am planning to do that now. Thanks so much for the pictures! Definitely helped.
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Old 11-15-2013, 06:32 AM   #15392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewaysil80 View Post
Silly question. How do you break in a freshly built engine if it requires a tune to run. I'm assuming set the rev limiter really really low and then have it tuned; but I'm curious if even at such a low limit if it would in any way damage the motor while getting an initial tune.

I'm picking up the parts for my spare vq35 and I'm wondering if it would be easier/safer to initially break in the motor on oem intake system/ecu and then AFTER break in convert to map sensor/standalone and itbs. Or am I just over thinking as usual...
Build the way you want it to be in it's finished state, insuring you use a ton of assembly lube where needed.
Start the engine, and let it run to 2500rpm to set everything and seat the rings.
Adjust tuning either on or off dyno and run no more than 4k (On a dyno 5 pulls is broken in). Tune it, run the piss out of to see what final adjustments it needs, change the oil, drive it like ya stole it
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:19 PM   #15393
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clutch master cylinder ?

have a brand new OEM clutch slave cyl ,and a slightly older autozone master ..
everything is bleed (no damper)
.but i am getting clutch creep "car wants to creep forward" and is a bear to get into gear.

my thoughts are that the autozone is craptastic and not OEM,and that i am getting a fluid bypass internally in the master ,due to the new slave is giving the master alot more resistance .

is this a possibility?
should i buy a OEM $100 master?
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:28 PM   #15394
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Have you adjusted it?

You can lengthen/shorten the rod of the clutch master.
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:39 PM   #15395
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My gauge cluster were all working when I turned the car on and then I turn it off it clicked and no power to the cluster. The fuses in the cab are all good, but I check the fuses on the battery side and the alt fuse is broken. What to know if this happen to anyone with a ka24de swap?

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Old 11-15-2013, 01:48 PM   #15396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_griego View Post
Have you adjusted it?

You can lengthen/shorten the rod of the clutch master.
yes i have .
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Old 11-15-2013, 02:43 PM   #15397
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yeaaaah,. if you dnt have any leaks or pinched lines along the way, i would assume the master has to be the culprit
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:01 AM   #15398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blessedhellrider View Post
have a brand new OEM clutch slave cyl ,and a slightly older autozone master ..
everything is bleed (no damper)
.but i am getting clutch creep "car wants to creep forward" and is a bear to get into gear.

my thoughts are that the autozone is craptastic and not OEM,and that i am getting a fluid bypass internally in the master ,due to the new slave is giving the master alot more resistance .

is this a possibility?
should i buy a OEM $100 master?
When it comes to the hydraulics OEM or aftermarket are the way to go. The only thing I must say though that if going aftermarket in the master cylinder, is that you must ensure you're getting FULL throw, and that means taking the stopper out, and bending stuff as they need more movement than OEM. Cheaper? Sure...but need work.

The VatoZone stuff simplydoesn't work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post

I have a quick question of my own. I have looked all over, rimtuck etc, and have not found a good answer:
7x7.5 +42 ICW (Gram Lights G-Games clones). I know OE SE is 6.5x16 +40
How much spacer do I need front and rear to push these out to the fender lip?

I am thinking maybe 15mm rear, 10mm front or maybe 20mm rear and 15mm front. The wheels are in almost perfect shape, have new tires on them, so I want to use them until I can get the cash for what I really want. I figure a little cash for spacers won't be too bad and it will make the wheels set up right
15mm all around should fit ok, it certainly won't rub.

WIth that said don't forget studs and lugnuts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by takuymmt View Post
i have a s13 hatch with a s14 sr

so it seems like my injector lower o-rings may be going bad

i've never taken the injectors off so i dont know how this process is to go about.

can you guys help me with a tutorial or something on how to properly remove the injectors and replace the lower o-rings?

Thankyou so much!!
How are you sure those are what have failed? Random assessment if you ask me, I'd troubleshoot a bit more.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dankd View Post
Ok, I've been searching all day long so far for my answer and having no luck..

So I bought a coupe with a blown HG with intentions to repair it. When I bought it, the engine was half apart, as in exhaust manifold off, and intake manifold pretty much off aswell. ***So my problem is***

MISSING BOLTS So I need sizes and or where to get them I searched everyware please help., pretty much all intake manifold bolts or studs whatever they are. same with exhaust side of things. the studs are there i need to know the sizes of the nuts i guess, But on intake im missing everything. I checked the FSM nothing. please help its the only thing stopping me at the moment............
Dealer sells the bolts, or find someone parting out a car and get what you need.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matej View Post
What flavour of assembly paste/lube is recommended for use on an SR, when installing camshafts and such?
Thank you.

Any quality lube will do. Well, for engines that is. I like the sticky lucas stuff, but have thrown stuff together with the cheapest moly lube and had no issues either. Just make sure you crnak until you get oil pressure.
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:02 AM   #15399
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in jan.2014 can anyone import a r32 since it 25 years old. or do i have to wait longer than jan?
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:05 AM   #15400
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in jan.2014 can anyone import a r32 since it 25 years old. or do i have to wait longer than jan?
Your location says you're in Japan though o.o

Lol. As long as it is 25 years old, down to the exact month it was manufactured I believe, you can. Check out Nostalgia Imports; maybe they can help you out:

https://www.facebook.com/NostalgiaImports
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:28 AM   #15401
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yeah i am stationed here and leave to my next duty station this dec.
i would have liked to ship one but if down to the exact month that might not work out for me. i will check out the page. thanks.
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:31 AM   #15402
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Originally Posted by gunnerbob760 View Post
yeah i am stationed here and leave to my next duty station this dec.
i would have liked to ship one but if down to the exact month that might not work out for me. i will check out the page. thanks.
Ahhh okay. Enjoy Japan while it lasts. I have a friend who is stationed there as well right now, until December too, I believe. Thanks for your service, and good luck!
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:28 PM   #15403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007 View Post
Ahhhhhh you hammered down the edges that were sticking out to sit the wiring lower! At least that's what it looks like and am planning to do that now. Thanks so much for the pictures! Definitely helped.
Didn't hammer anything lol, it's sitting on top of the seam. Just don't put it too high and it won't touch anything.
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Old 11-16-2013, 01:35 PM   #15404
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Didn't hammer anything lol, it's sitting on top of the seam. Just don't put it too high and it won't touch anything.
Wha-? I swear I tried putting it at the lowest point I could above the seam...it looks like my tube of wires is abnormally larger than your tube of wires...I'll have to take a look at it again and make the necessary adjustments. Thanks again.
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Old 11-16-2013, 03:18 PM   #15405
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Wha-? I swear I tried putting it at the lowest point I could above the seam...it looks like my tube of wires is abnormally larger than your tube of wires...I'll have to take a look at it again and make the necessary adjustments. Thanks again.
Maybe try to ziptie it in place and flatten it with a hammer.... I dunno, it's not even close to touching my fender.
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:45 PM   #15406
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Does anybody know the part number for OEM kouki side skirt clips? Some of mine are broken and I'd like to replace them all so that my skirt fits properly. I don't want to do a cheap zip-tie or double sided tape repair. I have already searched these boards and nissanparts.cc with no luck - only found a bunch of WTB threads.

Edit: Some more digging has found me the information. Courtesy Parts has the clips and grommets:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/76897ea...-p-138694.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/76500j-...8-p-18144.html
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:18 AM   #15407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007 View Post
Your location says you're in Japan though o.o

Lol. As long as it is 25 years old, down to the exact month it was manufactured I believe, you can. Check out Nostalgia Imports; maybe they can help you out:

https://www.facebook.com/NostalgiaImports
you can also hit up UPGARAGE who goes through facebook to LSWANSGARAGEHATINONTHEMIDDLEMAN...containers ship to TX

Current legal GTR is R31, R32 is 2014, R33 is 2015(JOY! I wanna GTR, I wanna Nismo 400R!) but seriously, it's freakin cold, wet, and rainy now. I would settle for having my car back from the body shop with it's new shiny BMW high aluminum content Gunmetal Grey
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:07 AM   #15408
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how come i cant post in the "scammers" thread?
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:14 AM   #15409
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thats a question for the mods, not here lol
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:08 PM   #15410
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So i recently bought a new upper harness for my 95 manual zenki. The harness i bought is for an 97 auto kouki. I know that im going to have extra connectors, but the only one im worried about is the o2 sensor. The harness has 3 wires to a connector and my o2 sensor only has a single signal wire. Is it possible to splice directly into the signal wire on the new harness? Im goin to be using my stock zenki ecu so just buying a 3 wire o2 sensor wouldnt work.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:27 PM   #15411
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Originally Posted by Zenki_559 View Post
So i recently bought a new upper harness for my 95 manual zenki. The harness i bought is for an 97 auto kouki. I know that im going to have extra connectors, but the only one im worried about is the o2 sensor. The harness has 3 wires to a connector and my o2 sensor only has a single signal wire. Is it possible to splice directly into the signal wire on the new harness? Im goin to be using my stock zenki ecu so just buying a 3 wire o2 sensor wouldnt work.
Did you try and plug your zenki ecu into the kouki harness? You are going to have more problems than just the heated O2.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:10 PM   #15412
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what are the best rear speakers for a hatch? i searched and everyone says to go 6.5s but i dont really wanna deal with having to cut stuff out just to fit them.
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Old 11-18-2013, 09:37 PM   #15413
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anyone know the measurement from driver to passenger side quarter panel in inches?

Trying to find out if my wing is wider than my car.
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:08 AM   #15414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hOngsterr View Post
anyone know the measurement from driver to passenger side quarter panel in inches?

Trying to find out if my wing is wider than my car.
Stock S14 spoiler is 54". That help?
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:35 AM   #15415
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I think 66" for s13.
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:13 PM   #15416
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Anyone got an easy way to remove an oil filter? Mine won't cone out, I tried the tool and I also tried the screw driver trick.
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:03 PM   #15417
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Anyone got an easy way to remove an oil filter? Mine won't cone out, I tried the tool and I also tried the screw driver trick.
Try getting the tool as close to the base (nearest block) as possible. I assume if you tried the screwdriver you ripped it all to shreads?

If push comes to shove take the 4 allen headed bolts off, and then get it in a vise and use a chisel/hammer to 'walk it off'. You may be able to do it in car too but ya never know.
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:27 PM   #15418
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Yeah, the tool I have can't be taken to the base as it is a socket. I'll see if I can get another type of tool. I did indeed rip it mostly to shreds with the screwdriver, thanks for the advice. I think after this I'm going to invest in an oil filter relocation kit lol.
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:03 PM   #15419
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s13 headlights

I have an s13 and i jsut got it, it is my dream car, but with the head lights, with the switch when i turn them off only the right side goes down, whenm i put the left down Manuely and then turn them on it comes up but doesnt go down? has anyone else had this problem or anyone know how to fix it?
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:08 PM   #15420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14 Ender View Post
Yeah, the tool I have can't be taken to the base as it is a socket. I'll see if I can get another type of tool. I did indeed rip it mostly to shreds with the screwdriver, thanks for the advice. I think after this I'm going to invest in an oil filter relocation kit lol.
Yea if you're on a stock intake manifold it's a bear to get up in there

Just remember there are two o rings behind that oil filter block where it goes into the block, they are special to that applcation, so don't drop them. If they get ruined, you can get them at your local dealer as they are the same o ring used n the VQ front covers
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