5 speed swap, won't start thread.

[oscarsx]

I fired it up right before I did the 5 speed swap, turned on fine. No issues.


I did a complete 5 speed swap with the exception of the ECU, lower harness.

Now the car won't start, It's not even turning over. BUT when I turn direct wire my starter to my battery it starts up fine.

I did the inhibitor switch jump, I have no other clues on where to go.

Here's the 4 plug right next to the fuse box, did I miss anything?

[92SEric240sx]

What lower (transmission) harness did you use?, the starter signal comes from that harness, it's best to use one from a manual car with the 5 speed conversion

[oscarsx]

I used the Auto harness, I don't have my 5 speed harness available yet.

[92SEric240sx]

Power and ground to the right spot on the starter? Check your grounds

[Ilya]

....this guy.....search!! And you will find the answer. You don't need a manual harness.

[oscarsx]

I've searched for hours since I've found this problem

[ATLspeed]

Guessing thats an s14? Looks to be loose ground or signal wire for the starter not connected. You don't need an manual harness to get it running but some of the warning lights will be on (for s13 anyway).

[Ilya]

Solder Solder Solder!!! looks like you twisted two wires together. come on man, there are like 4 wires inside a 240 and you cant figure it out why you had a good starter before, and now you dont.

Did you disconnect the starter to do your swap?

Have you tried tapping the starter and then starting?

Did you check your battery?

[Chaluska]

Originally Posted by Ilya

Solder Solder Solder!!! looks like you twisted two wires together. come on man, there are like 4 wires inside a 240 and you cant figure it out why you had a good starter before, and now you dont.

Did you disconnect the starter to do your swap?

Have you tried tapping the starter and then starting?

Did you check your battery?

never solder in the engine bay.. always use crimps

engine = hot. solder melts in heat.

[SkyS13Walker]

Get a manual ecu and check all your grounds

[tauntdevil]

Originally Posted by Chaluska

never solder in the engine bay.. always use crimps

engine = hot. solder melts in heat.

If your engine gets hot enough to melt the solder, I believe you have another issue. Would have to get extremely hot for it to melt the solder unless you use cheap crap that melts with light heat.

Also, to the OP, you may want to look at a diagram to see where all the wires for the starter go too so you know which start the starter and which may not be as important. You can also try using a remote starter switch, turn the key to ON position and try turning over the engine. In theory, should start unless you are missing more connectors and wires. Go over everything you did and make sure there are no missing connectors. I know you said it starts up fine so really just sounds like you didnt connect something correct. Tripple check it all and make sure it is all correct.

[oscarsx]

I agree with the solder, that ghetto twist was for a quick fire up and check ☑ it was good. But your right. I'm going to check everything else.

I checked all fuses and relays with my other s14 no solution. I know I'm missing something very stupid. I ran out of ideas. All my swap consisted of basic junk no wires for the exception for the speed sensor, o2 and the crank angle sensor.

- oz

[Ilya]

Make sure you sand the stranded wires a bit, they are covered with coating that makes soldering a bitch.

[oscarsx]

I already did, I had to pull out my heavy duty soldering needle lol. Also my battery terminal broke off, I'm seriously hoping that was the issue.

- oz

[oscarsx]

Attachment 69428

- oz

[Ilya]

Good luck and report back with the results

[zerodameaon]

Originally Posted by ATLspeed

You don't need an manual harness to get it running but some of the warning lights will be on (for s13 anyway).

If you have warning lights you screwed up and need to figure out what you did wrong. I have done a few of these swaps on S13s and never used the manual harness and have not once tripped any warning lights because of it.

OP replace that whole red connector if the metal bit that connects to the battery is starting to break, it will one day snap on you leaving you possibly stranded. I would not suggest buying a new OEM one as you are just getting yourself into the problem again later down the road.

[s14boy]

Get your self a dmm and check for 12v at the 12v post. Check for continuity to the negative battery terminal to make sure your starter is getting a good ground source. And lastly check to see that you are getting voltage when you key is in the "cranking position. To do this attach you dmm to ground and to the signal wire on the starter and have some one crank the car. If you have power and ground but no voltage to the signal wire then grab your self a fsm and trace the wire to see what your problem is.

-Mike

[oscarsx]

Replaced the terminal and still no success.. What I did find out tho is that my Alternator is bad. I've been using up all my battery juice and I'm hoping that was causing this issue.

My lights would dim out while the car is on, everything would flicker. My car would run like crap, I did the good ol ghetto check your alternator method, disconnecting the positive cable (stupid I know) and it died. So I'm picking one up today...

If this does not fix the issue, I swear I'm just going to push start method lol.

[oscarsx]

Second alternator and still no solution. All my alternators tested seem to be bad. I'm replacing the 100 amp fuse today.. Already swapped out my 75amp and no progress.

- oz

[oscarsx]

So I installed a working alternator and my car still won't start. I have to jump the starter directly to the battery. I'm honestly confused and I have no where to start.

I'm seriously just thinking of adding a on/off switch directly from the start/battery cable lol. ghetto push start.. but I rather not If i can fix it the right way.

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by zerodameaon

If you have warning lights you screwed up and need to figure out what you did wrong. I have done a few of these swaps on S13s and never used the manual harness and have not once tripped any warning lights because of it.
.

You are def right. I'm thinking of when my engine bay harness was cut from being lowered. . Everything was fine when I switch to an uncut harness

--------------------

OP There is def something wrong with the signal wire to the starter. If you have a volt meter check to see if you are getting a 12v signal when turning the key to start.

[oscarsx]

I'm getting 0 voltage lol, so there's a start. Going to back trace a bit and read up on the fsm.

Anyone have any idea and where to start.?

- oz

[zerodameaon]

Originally Posted by ATLspeed

You are def right. I'm thinking of when my engine bay harness was cut from being lowered. . Everything was fine when I switch to an uncut harness

That situation is always fun to deal with.


OP did you take out any of the little computer boxes for the auto like the green one under the drivers dash or the one hidden up behind the ECU? Also for the short start with all the wires that hook up to the starter and use the FSM to trace them back to their origin.

It might be your ignition so check that.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/1991-1994...l-t249966.html

[oscarsx]

Originally Posted by zerodameaon

That situation is always fun to deal with.


OP did you take out any of the little computer boxes for the auto like the green one under the drivers dash or the one hidden up behind the ECU? Also for the short start with all the wires that hook up to the starter and use the FSM to trace them back to their origin.

It might be your ignition so check that.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/1991-1994...l-t249966.html

I did take out the one where the clutch pedal goes, I believe that's for the automatic trans... a module, correct me if I'm wrong.

As for the other one, I did not remove that one.. should i?

thanks for the link I'll read it up tomorrow at work. thanks

[zerodameaon]

Leave the one up by the ECU it won't affect anything badly, as for the green one put it back and try again, all it is supposed to do is be the shift lock unit and it is supposed to keep you from removing the key without the car in park(not possible with no auto trans anymore), but maybe its causing some unknown issues.