Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Slicerwolf]

The S15 Intake Manifold supports top feed fuel rails right? Its just that the space seems cramped on the 2 piece manifold. Also anyone have any feedback on the circuit sport fuel rail or any other middle range top feed ones. (I'm buying deatschwerks ~700cc injectors this week.)

[DriftingBrandon]

If I order the NRG short hub adaptor, NRG 2.5 gen QuickRelease, and a 350mm deep dish wheel. How much further would my wheel stick out from stock? I'm 16 and 5'6", I need to be able to reach the pedals without the steering wheel in my chest.

[iVanRoz]

High idle issue. Cleaned the iacv and the car still sits at about 1k rpm at idle. What could this be? Tps? Bad fpr? The idle doesn't fuctuate it's a constant 1k rpm. Also I have some his situation at around 2.5k - 3k leading me to believe it's a bad tps.

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by iVanRoz

High idle issue. Cleaned the iacv and the car still sits at about 1k rpm at idle. What could this be? Tps? Bad fpr? The idle doesn't fuctuate it's a constant 1k rpm. Also I have some his situation at around 2.5k - 3k leading me to believe it's a bad tps.

You can manually fix your idle by turning the screw on your iacv. I think for automatics it's 750 rpms while the manuals are 600 rpms. Don't take my advice though, I could easily have gotten those numbers wrong.

[iVanRoz]

Originally Posted by acslater9

You can manually fix your idle by turning the screw on your iacv. I think for automatics it's 750 rpms while the manuals are 600 rpms. Don't take my advice though, I could easily have gotten those numbers wrong.

Forgot to mention that I already adjusted that too. Im driving around right now. And im noticing the idle went back to normal. ~650 rpm. Hesitation is still there though.

[Juucso]

Should I use cometec head gasket or OEM? And Should I use ACL Race bearing instead of OEM? Engine is CA18DET.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by iVanRoz

High idle issue. Cleaned the iacv and the car still sits at about 1k rpm at idle. What could this be? Tps? Bad fpr? The idle doesn't fuctuate it's a constant 1k rpm. Also I have some his situation at around 2.5k - 3k leading me to believe it's a bad tps.

Clean your MAF, and check your plug wires for integrity. That seemed to help mine

Originally Posted by Juucso

Should I use cometec head gasket or OEM? And Should I use ACL Race bearing instead of OEM? Engine is CA18DET.

If you can rebuild with performance parts, do so. So many put the little 'mini RB' out of mind, but when built right, it is inexpensive to build, and runs like stink when well prepared and tuned

[Diego9777]

Could a bent rear lower control arm affect the rear camber? Sorry if this is a stupid question but anyway, the rear upper control arm is not bent. So I'm left with the rlca which is in fact bent and the wheel now has some noticeable positive camber.

[juhd]

would a bad TPS cause some hesitation when giving gas? whats happening is if i would tap the gas pedal it would cause the idle to drop down and almost die. it doesnt do it all the time, but its really annoying, especially when im parking my car because it causes me to stall sometimes. other than that, it idles smooth and runs fine. this problem began immediately after i replaced one bad fuel injector so im really confused on what it could be

[JrDarknes]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

One of my headlights is out on my hatch, bought a new headlight still Dosent come on. Bought a new switch and installed it, still Dosent come on. Check the fuses they are all good, what else could it be??

Could someone help me please, I used a multimeter and I'm only getting 2 volts on my driver side headlight. I'm looking at all the wires and they're all looking great. I don't know what another solution can be.

[juhd]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

Could someone help me please, I used a multimeter and I'm only getting 2 volts on my driver side headlight. I'm looking at all the wires and they're all looking great. I don't know what another solution can be.

is your car lowered? have you checked the wiring harness above your wheels? or could maybe be the headlight motor

[JrDarknes]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

is your car lowered? have you checked the wiring harness above your wheels? or could maybe be the headlight motor

Yes it's lowered, I'm looking at this harness right now and all the wires are fine. The headlight motor can control if the light are on or off?

[juhd]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

Yes it's lowered, I'm looking at this harness right now and all the wires are fine. The headlight motor can control if the light are on or off?

oh my bad, i thought you meant that it doesnt open or close haha. but if the wiring harness is good and you changed all those parts, i wouldnt know what else to check

[JrDarknes]

Is it possible that having a bad relay may cause it to not turn on or having low voltage??

[monks]

so i bought a used kaaz 2way for what i believe to be a s13 i swapped it over to my s14 pumpkin and tried to put my s14 vlsd output shafts into it and neither the short one or the long one would fit.

so i bought a set of s13 open diff output shafts to see if they would fit and it still sticks out to much on one side.

question i have is, are s13 and s14 vlsd output shaft lengths different sizes ?

[David48]

Originally Posted by Diego9777

Could a bent rear lower control arm affect the rear camber? Sorry if this is a stupid question but anyway, the rear upper control arm is not bent. So I'm left with the rlca which is in fact bent and the wheel now has some noticeable positive camber.

Yes. If ANY control arm is bent it will almost 100% effect your camber, caster AND toe.

Originally Posted by Juucso

Should I use cometec head gasket or OEM? And Should I use ACL Race bearing instead of OEM? Engine is CA18DET.

ACL race bearings are great. You might want to do your research on Cometic headgaskets though. A LOT of people have poor success with them.

[chato de shamrock]

I recently started hearing a noise under the hood. Best description of the noise that I could give you guys is that it is similar to sticking a baseball card on a bicycle wheel and getting the rattle as the wheel spins. The noise only occures when I step on the gas. absolutely no rattle noise when i let go of the gas pedal, when Its on park, or stopped at a light, or the car is cruising on its own speed. I have to get the chain guides removed cause I have the low rubbing noise from the chain/guides also going and im leaning that this rattling is also related to the chain. Any help identifying or confirming would be greatly appreciated.

[NoFlex]

What is a compatible rail that will bolt right up to the bride vios low max seats?

Thanks!!

[mechanicalmoron]

Anyone know the ratio between shock mount slotting distance and added camber?

I don't want to have to shim it or lift the car to align it, could turn out to be a real bitch - I want to add (or rather, subtract) a degree of camber adjustment (currently can't get past -.5), anyone good at math?

That is, how do you find the angle change between the long legs of a triangle as you lengthen the short leg?

*edit - nevermind, near as I can tell, .105cm (about 1mm)=1 degree http://www.calculator.net/triangle-c...ts=d&x=62&y=12

Now to bust out the file.... I don't have a die grinder. Hope tein mount steel is as shitty as every other aspect of their coilovers.

[NoFlex]

What kind of seats rails will bolt right up to Bride Vios 3's without having to do any customizing? S13

[bc.]

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

I recently started hearing a noise under the hood. Best description of the noise that I could give you guys is that it is similar to sticking a baseball card on a bicycle wheel and getting the rattle as the wheel spins. The noise only occures when I step on the gas. absolutely no rattle noise when i let go of the gas pedal, when Its on park, or stopped at a light, or the car is cruising on its own speed. I have to get the chain guides removed cause I have the low rubbing noise from the chain/guides also going and im leaning that this rattling is also related to the chain. Any help identifying or confirming would be greatly appreciated.

I don't want to be the barer of bad news, but this could also be engine knock. How long has it been going on and how far have you driven like this? Also, what engine is it, because KA and SR have very different common problems that make noises. Hopefully it is chain noise though, good luck!

Originally Posted by NoFlex

What is a compatible rail that will bolt right up to the bride vios low max seats?

Thanks!!

A bride rail will, FG is the thing you need.

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Anyone know the ratio between shock mount slotting distance and added camber?

I don't want to have to shim it or lift the car to align it, could turn out to be a real bitch - I want to add (or rather, subtract) a degree of camber adjustment (currently can't get past -.5), anyone good at math?

That is, how do you find the angle change between the long legs of a triangle as you lengthen the short leg?

*edit - nevermind, near as I can tell, .105cm (about 1mm)=1 degree http://www.calculator.net/triangle-c...ts=d&x=62&y=12

Now to bust out the file.... I don't have a die grinder. Hope tein mount steel is as shitty as every other aspect of their coilovers.

I am not really following all this, but I get my car aligned at a shop, they do a good job.

[NoFlex]

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

I recently started hearing a noise under the hood. Best description of the noise that I could give you guys is that it is similar to sticking a baseball card on a bicycle wheel and getting the rattle as the wheel spins. The noise only occures when I step on the gas. absolutely no rattle noise when i let go of the gas pedal, when Its on park, or stopped at a light, or the car is cruising on its own speed. I have to get the chain guides removed cause I have the low rubbing noise from the chain/guides also going and im leaning that this rattling is also related to the chain. Any help identifying or confirming would be greatly appreciated.

i experienced something similar. Turned out to be my power steering pump whining because there was some air in the system. Try to bleed it and see if that helps

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by bc.

I am not really following all this, but I get my car aligned at a shop, they do a good job.

With a lowered car (1 inch), and no adjustable arms, I couldn't get a camber spec I was happy with in the front, especially considering it forces me to have -2.5 in the rear, and front should, as I understand, be at least equal to rear considering our suspension types - I'm only going for -1.5 or -2, but I want to at least see how it changes the handling, which is the general focus of my wrenching. I think that it'll be fine, I have 60 sidewalls, so more roll is to be expected, and the -2.5 is wearing perfectly and handling nicely in the back. Front camber is adjusted with an eccentric bolt in the upper hole on the lower shock mount, and adjustment can be added by slotting the hole farther. I put around another mm of slot beyond stock on my coilover's holes - it's a common mod, I just didn't know how much, because if I went too far, then the eccentric couldn't take back the extra I didn't want, and I'd have to just jack the car and guess on where to bolt it, until I gow I got it. My calculation is a triangle, with 6cm sides (the distance between the bolt holes) -the remaining side is the distance of slot, to give the one degree change I wanted between those two sides.

Unless you make over $70 bucks an hour, I suggest learning to string your car yourself (if you often have your suspension apart). If it's good enough for formula 1, it's good enough for an s13, and it makes you feel great and self-sufficient and comfortable with your ability to finish what you start. There's lots of info about it online, including 240-specific info.

I got them slotted and bolted back up last night, now I've got to align and torque it, set toe (again, since you do it after camber - camber changes it, and it's the one that needs to be more accurate to keep your tires from hurtin'), rotate my tires, and take her for a spin.

Anyway, I just asked since it's a simple question that lots of people should have experience with, and google didn't answer, but I got impatient.

[bc.]

I just don't see the harm in going a little too far with the slot though. if your bolts on top can't hold the position in the slot anyway, it would already be sliding around and causing issues.

I have thought about aligning the car myself, but it honestly is better off that I have a shop do it for $90 and let me sit in there and help coach the kid doing it how to adjust my suspension. It takes them two hours and it would take me like four, so I see it as a good deal.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by bc.

I just don't see the harm in going a little too far with the slot though. if your bolts on top can't hold the position in the slot anyway, it would already be sliding around and causing issues.

I have thought about aligning the car myself, but it honestly is better off that I have a shop do it for $90 and let me sit in there and help coach the kid doing it how to adjust my suspension. It takes them two hours and it would take me like four, so I see it as a good deal.

I don't think it would actually hurt anything, but it would make aligning much harder, if you went far enough that the bolt couldn't take up the slack, if that makes sense. Normally, you set the car on the ground, and turn the bolt - if it couldn't go positive enough, you'd have to lift the car, slide it to where you wanted, torque, and recheck on the ground.

Especially with a car that's too low for my jack, that could get really frustrating and time consuming - I just want it to align normally. I would just have it stock height (since handling is my thing), but my teins force a 1in drop, despite being the crappy ones that don't come with camber plates or anything, or having slots big enough for adjustment on stock suspension. I've considered making 1in perch spacers, but determined it'd be a giant pita and not really worth it - I'm not sure they havne an inch of sag to take up anyway.

Once you get good and comfortable at it, as long as your arms are ballparked, stringing shouldn't be too hard - but the first time does take quite a while, or it did for me. I know some guys do it because their alignment places won't touch custom suspension, but I guess if you're happy with it and they'l do it, no harm.

[Ilya]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

would a bad TPS cause some hesitation when giving gas? whats happening is if i would tap the gas pedal it would cause the idle to drop down and almost die. it doesnt do it all the time, but its really annoying, especially when im parking my car because it causes me to stall sometimes. other than that, it idles smooth and runs fine. this problem began immediately after i replaced one bad fuel injector so im really confused on what it could be

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=558989

[bc.]

My most recent alignment was not a good one to try myself, I had just put on all new SPL arms and that shit was waaaay off, haha.

[NoFlex]

A bride rail will, FG is the thing you need.


Do you know if the buddy club seat rails will fit as well? Or circuit sports

[chato de shamrock]

Originally Posted by bc.

I don't want to be the barer of bad news, but this could also be engine knock. How long has it been going on and how far have you driven like this? Also, what engine is it, because KA and SR have very different common problems that make noises. Hopefully it is chain noise though, good luck!

Originally Posted by NoFlex

i experienced something similar. Turned out to be my power steering pump whining because there was some air in the system. Try to bleed it and see if that helps

The noise started some time around mid November, about two weeks before the Thanksgiving holiday. I did take two trips of about 130 miles each way plus short drives to and from work, so i'd guess i've driven around 750 miles to no more then 1000 miles with that noise. It's a KA engine with about 157K on the odometer. No major modifications to it.

The power steering pump makes the whining noise until you spray a little water on it, then the nosie goes away for a few seconds before coming back, right? If so, my issues only occures when someone steps on/holds down on the gas pedal. Once you take your foot off it, noise is gone. Or am I confusing the PS pump with the water pump?

[NoFlex]

got another one.

Do the bride zeta and vios share the same seat rail? I know the vios goes a little lower.