|
Builds (and builds only) Got a build thread? It goes here, build threads anywhere else on the forum will be locked and never moved. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
12-15-2009, 10:26 PM | #121 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gloucester, VA
Age: 45
Posts: 517
Trader Rating: (6)
Feedback Score: 6 reviews
|
suspension is all sorted out.
Cage is done. Next will be the install of the engine with the sikky amazing kit. It's amazing!!!! Stephen "OP" will probably be picking up the car this weekend from my house to take it back to his to install the engine.
__________________
1994 FD3S Drift // 945garage // sumospeed.com |
Sponsored Links |
12-15-2009, 10:28 PM | #122 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: LA
Age: 38
Posts: 3,402
Trader Rating: (19)
Feedback Score: 19 reviews
|
Haha, I guess it could magically be done if I had more money.
I am not sure if anyone saw it on here but I am putting anyone's name on my car who donates 10 dollars or more to my paypal account . So far I've only had two people do it, and they're from my local forum .
__________________
Instagram - SJKnoop |
12-15-2009, 10:37 PM | #123 |
Zilvia Addict
|
simple amazing, quick question. What are your plans for the motor? Target HP?What type of Cams? And why the truck heads? Since I plan to do the same with my Z33 just wanted to see what you had in mind.
__________________
http://zilvia.net/advertise.html |
12-15-2009, 10:50 PM | #124 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: LA
Age: 38
Posts: 3,402
Trader Rating: (19)
Feedback Score: 19 reviews
|
All of my decisions so far have been solely based on cost. My original plan was truck heads (cheap and higher compression), stock bottom end with new main/rod bearings, ARP rod bolts, stock intake manifold, and 224/224 cam. I recently picked up a LS6 intake manifold/injectors/fuel rail for a price I couldn't pass up so now I am thinking LS6 intake and cam will be good - and save money.
HP wise I am going to be happy with whatever I get. I am going from 250whp so I don't want to jump up to a 400whp car. I figure it'll make something between 320-360whp. My motor parts are as follows right now: -97 LS1 short block w/ brand new clevite main/rod bearings and ARP rod bolts -Truck heads -Trick Flow 7.4 hardened push rods -Dual valve springs/retainers -Some sort of valves -- I got them from a friend with the springs/pushrods -LS4 oil pump -Rebuilt T56 transmission I still need: -Head gaskets -Head bolts -A few other random gaskets/seals -Clutch/Flywheel -LS6 valley cover conversion I am sure I am leaving some stuff out. I am picking up a wiring harness/ecu tomorrow. I still have a good chunk of change left to spend - so I've been taking it easy on spending and trying to sell some stuff so I can order everything. I get the rest of my money from the SR in January so I'll have everything ordered by then for sure.
__________________
Instagram - SJKnoop |
12-15-2009, 11:21 PM | #125 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Riverside, CA
Age: 32
Posts: 1,045
Trader Rating: (11)
Feedback Score: 11 reviews
|
Read it, and now waiting for more, Subsribed. if you pull of that lock on your front wheels that would be insane! What are you going to do for the rubbing issue though
|
12-15-2009, 11:32 PM | #126 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: LA
Age: 38
Posts: 3,402
Trader Rating: (19)
Feedback Score: 19 reviews
|
I am going to have to run spacers and probably a 235/40 or a 245/35 - the 235 will more then likely be MUCH cheaper. I am hoping I can get away with a 15mm spacer so I can still get some larger lips and run 10.5s up front. If I have to run 25mm spacers I'll be stuck with the 10 up front....which is plenty I just wanted to rebuild them with wider lips all around.
__________________
Instagram - SJKnoop |
12-15-2009, 11:32 PM | #127 |
Zilvia Addict
|
Thanks a lot for the info on the engine build, looks to be a fine build. Are you going to install a Accusump for the oil lost you might have on the LS. I heard it is a good thing to add one.
__________________
http://zilvia.net/advertise.html |
12-15-2009, 11:37 PM | #128 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Riverside, CA
Age: 32
Posts: 1,045
Trader Rating: (11)
Feedback Score: 11 reviews
|
I think a decent stretch will do the trick only looks to be a few mm off so a 235 seems as it should be no worries with that, and you can still keep your offset! which is the most important part haha
|
12-16-2009, 12:49 AM | #129 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: oklahoma
Age: 38
Posts: 835
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
|
He shouldn't have to run an accusump since he is using the sikky oil pan. Im pretty sure most of the oiling problems on lsx motors are from the design of the factory oil pan.
__________________
instagram: madness_garages14 |
12-16-2009, 05:47 AM | #130 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gloucester, VA
Age: 45
Posts: 517
Trader Rating: (6)
Feedback Score: 6 reviews
|
you pretty hit it on the head. The accusump is not a must have. Proper baffeling on the oil pan is more important.
__________________
1994 FD3S Drift // 945garage // sumospeed.com |
12-16-2009, 07:12 AM | #131 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: LA
Age: 38
Posts: 3,402
Trader Rating: (19)
Feedback Score: 19 reviews
|
Yeah, the Sikky pan is crazy. If you take it and place it on the subframe it is directly level with the it - as in it does not hang below it. So when it is actually attached to the motor it will sit above the frame. I am very happy about this .
I'll post lots of engine pictures when I tackle that. I will be doing a write up on their install kit.
__________________
Instagram - SJKnoop |
12-16-2009, 02:32 PM | #135 |
Zilvia Addict
|
Okay that sounds pretty good that the Sikky pan was made proper like. If you don't mind me asking how much was every thing from Sikky kit, with pan, driveshaft ect...? you can pm me if you want..
__________________
http://zilvia.net/advertise.html |
12-16-2009, 02:48 PM | #137 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: LA
Age: 38
Posts: 3,402
Trader Rating: (19)
Feedback Score: 19 reviews
|
With AC you're on your own with custom lines....shouldn't be too hard I've got some friends that TIG extremely well, they made me custom lines for my SR but I never used them because of my FMIC set up. Heat is just a matter of hooking up some hoses to your heater core.
Royal-T I'll PM you when I get off work later on tonight.
__________________
Instagram - SJKnoop |
12-16-2009, 04:04 PM | #139 | |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gloucester, VA
Age: 45
Posts: 517
Trader Rating: (6)
Feedback Score: 6 reviews
|
Quote:
Ill ditto what stephen said. I dont know if the s15 subframe is the same, but Im sure sikky would work with you for an s15 application. Email them and they will get back to you asap. If you need anything modded hit me up.
__________________
1994 FD3S Drift // 945garage // sumospeed.com |
|
12-16-2009, 04:28 PM | #140 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Houston TX
Age: 41
Posts: 1,245
Trader Rating: (12)
Feedback Score: 12 reviews
|
Really nice build man keep it up, im in the process of same stuff on my S14 tubs are done engine bay is painted, subframe risers in and about to start on cage and knuckles, goodluck on the motor stuff also.
|
12-16-2009, 05:44 PM | #141 |
Nissanaholic!
|
i shall give them a call tomorrow, can't seem to get their email thing to work under the contact us thing.
|
12-16-2009, 05:58 PM | #142 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Silver Spring MD
Age: 40
Posts: 1,215
Trader Rating: (8)
Feedback Score: 8 reviews
|
Not sure if its already been stated, but when are you looking to have all this done by Stephen? Looking forward to seeing it in person. All the fab work looks sick!
|
12-16-2009, 07:23 PM | #143 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: LA
Age: 38
Posts: 3,402
Trader Rating: (19)
Feedback Score: 19 reviews
|
If I had 1500 bucks to dump into it right now I could be done in a few weeks. It is probably going to be more like a month/month and a half.
S15 front suspension should be exactly the same in the front. I know the rear subframe is different but I don't see how the front could be any different.
__________________
Instagram - SJKnoop |
12-17-2009, 05:38 AM | #146 | |
Zilvia Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: unconcious on Daytona Beach
Posts: 180
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
|
Quote:
__________________
BOOYAH! |
|
12-17-2009, 08:40 AM | #147 | |
Zilvia Member
|
Quote:
Second idea.. are you going to run a lower offset wheel to keep the tire off the lower frame rail? At this much angle wont the wheel just end up riding on the tension rod when you get the wheel off the frame rail? Great work on the car so far.. Just thought i would brain storm with you.. Jesse EDIT: just read you said you were going to run spacers in the front.. |
|
12-17-2009, 09:03 AM | #148 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: LA
Age: 38
Posts: 3,402
Trader Rating: (19)
Feedback Score: 19 reviews
|
The tie rods need to be moved down parallel with the LCA to correct for bump steer. The knuckle has been modded, so the majority of the extra angle is achieved that way. The notch in the control arm is just to allow a little more. When you modify the knuckle you achieve more lock in less turns, so the rack is not harmed/effected. Also, there will be a new stopper welded on to keep the knuckle from turning too far - the tie rod end will not just slam into the lca over and over.
__________________
Instagram - SJKnoop |
12-17-2009, 09:36 AM | #149 | |
Zilvia Member
|
Quote:
|
|
12-17-2009, 09:52 AM | #150 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: LA
Age: 38
Posts: 3,402
Trader Rating: (19)
Feedback Score: 19 reviews
|
Yes, the bump stop will stop the knuckle itself, like the factory one.
This much angle works, so I don't see how you could really get more then this:
__________________
Instagram - SJKnoop |
Bookmarks |
|
|