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02-19-2023, 07:02 PM | #23851 | |
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02-20-2023, 04:40 AM | #23852 |
Leaky Injector
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Hello.
I'm putting together a suspension on the car. I have ST Suspensions anti-sway bars set. Unfortunately bushings & sway bar links(which are actually long bolts) are worn and one front bushing bracket is torn apart. Could anyone let me know exact size of bolts and where can I buy a replacement bracket? |
02-20-2023, 08:04 AM | #23853 | |
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End links: https://www.energysuspensionparts.co...-end-links.asp Sway bar bushings: https://www.energysuspensionparts.co...r-bushings.asp I don't know where to get just the brackets alone. I had to go thru a similar process when and unknown sway bar was included with a car my daughter bought. |
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02-20-2023, 08:13 AM | #23854 |
Post Whore!
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No, I?m just assuming you wanted to replace the entire unit. Why would you want to bastardize something if it?s a bolt in solution?
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02-20-2023, 08:49 AM | #23855 | |
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Would be cool if a newer part was compatible, but that hinges on the bracket in the door jam being removable. |
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02-20-2023, 10:23 AM | #23856 | |
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Quote:
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02-20-2023, 12:29 PM | #23857 | ||
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https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/nissan...125-03161.html Quote:
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02-20-2023, 01:55 PM | #23858 |
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I?ll have to order a set to confirm whether or not the pin is the same diameter or not. It should be a pretty easy fix if not though. You don?t need a pin. A shanked bolt with the same OD as ID would suffice.
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02-21-2023, 07:18 AM | #23859 | ||
Leaky Injector
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Thank you for links. Unfortunately OEM bracket won't fit my aftermarket sway bar and measurements shown that brackets I have aren't Energy Suspension's. Most likely it's ST Suspension's product and seems like they are discontinued. IMHO, my best choice is to buy a set of universal ES bushings and links and replace them all. Last edited by splitfire; 04-14-2023 at 06:27 AM.. Reason: spelling |
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03-10-2023, 06:54 AM | #23860 |
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How well do hydraulic lifters from parts stores (or rock auto) hold up?
Bleeding lifters got rid of startup rattle, but the noise is back so I'm assuming I have at least two bad lifters. Two had a lot of air. New ones from Nissan are like $140/ea. Or should I try my luck with used ones? For a S15 SR. |
04-11-2023, 08:36 AM | #23861 |
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S13 vs S14/S15 rear subframe bolt sizes
Anyone know if the bolt sizes are the same between an S13 rear subframe vs. an S14 or S15 rear subframe? Specifically: 1) the bolts that hold the suspension arms to the subframe, 2) the nuts that hold the diff cover to the subframe (4 nuts for S13, or 2 nuts for S14) 3) the nuts/bolts on the diff carrier (main body) that go upwards into the subframe Thanks!! EDIT: The part numbers are different, which is why I ask. Is there a length/thickness difference of the bolts (and hence nuts)? Thanks!
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04-12-2023, 09:35 AM | #23862 | ||
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RUCA bolt is interchangeable but some S13s have a weird weighted bolt there hence the part number change. The S14 RUCA bolt also fits the S13 toe link.
Toe link bolt is longer for S14 but the same diameter/thread pitch. I investigated this in my alignment bolt thread over in tech. The RLCA bolt for several 2011+ Nissans 55226-JA01C fits in the S13 or S14 RUCA and S13 toe link for sure and I believe will also work in the S14 toe link (it's 10mm longer than the S13 toe link bolt). It's easier to find and cheaper. These all use the same nut. I used 42062-JA000 but it's just an M12x1.25 flanged lock nut. Forward link bolt is interchangeable. S14 RLCA bolts are longer but the same thread pitch, S13 nuts will work. Quote:
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04-13-2023, 03:25 PM | #23863 |
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KA 5 speed: it looks like I have an oil leak through either my neutral position switch or the 5th gear switch. Can't tell which, they're both wet. FSM calls for thread sealant. I think I just used a dab of Permatex 59214. Did I just not use enough? Or is it more likely that the oil is just leaking right through the body of the switch, given that they're old and original? Both switches do work but I had to repair a wire on the 5th gear switch, I wonder if I ruined its internal seal with solder heat.
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04-13-2023, 06:50 PM | #23864 |
ISR top mount ka24de Turbo kit opinions ?
Hi guys. I've been reading this forum for a while but never introduced myself, have a lot of good info on here but one thing I haven't noticed is no one has spoke about the TOP mount ISR kit. I know there's a bottom mount T2 kit from ISR that has been spoken about but they now have a T3 top mount with either a RSX3067,RSX3576, OR a RSX3582. Could I have some input on this kit and if anyone has run it with the full kit. I have my own blow off valve, and waste-gate, but tell me what you guys think of it I'll put the link in so you guys see exactly what I'm seeing.
https://www.aceupmotorsports.com/ka24de ... x-s13-s14/ FYI: this is my first time turbo-ing a car. I have a list of mods, I need to respectfully push no more than 10lbs of boost. My KA is completely stock besides exhaust, motor only has 133,000 miles on it. It's a '96 with a Kouki conversion all the way through. Also, this will be a "daily" so is 10lbs okay to push or should I start as 8lbs? if this isn't the right spot to create this please transfer to where it belongs. Thank you for reading, eager on the feedback |
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04-14-2023, 07:20 AM | #23865 |
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If you want a low boost turbo system on a stock block, a 'large frame' top mount T3 is way too much turbo. Respectfully, that turbo system is not in line with your engine or your goals.
I think there isn't much talk about it because most people who do build engines and turbo systems to that level in the S chassis world are past the point of kit builds and Chinese turbos. It's kind of a weird system from a marketing standpoint. Your goals and wants and experience level are perfect for a bottom mount T2 based system that can use off the shelf parts and minimize fabrication. You will be much happier with something like an S15 replacement turbo or maybe like a GBC22-350 (but even that's a much more 'advanced' install, just because all the oil and coolant fittings are different from an old style T25/28). |
04-14-2023, 07:52 AM | #23866 |
Zilvia Addict
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Agreed with AKA. When fitting a turbocharger to a stock KA it's best to aim for low CFM (Psi is irrelevant when not referencing a specific turbocharger) turbo (GT2560 would be perfect) with emphasis on a good fuel system and ECU management.
No reason to go with top mount on a stock block IMO. |
04-14-2023, 06:54 PM | #23867 |
AKA and Thursday you guys made good points, i think i will consider going that route then, for the turbo manifold should i look into getting the isr bottom mount or find a tomei mani, i looked at tomei website and it says its discontinued and preparing for "phase2" but i have no clue when that'll be, for the turbo im considering the gbc22-350, another question i have is if im running 8-12lbs of boost with stock internals will i be okay with a safc, a enthalpy tune, or get myself a standalone such as mspnp
ps; ill be running 550 injectors with a z32 maf |
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04-20-2023, 03:03 PM | #23868 | |
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04-20-2023, 03:21 PM | #23869 | |
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Enthalpy tune at a minimum. People love to hate, but they are fine so long as every other system in your car is up to snuff (emphasis on fueling like I said. I've blown up a few KA's w/ Enthalpy tune because I kept original fuel pump wiring like a dumbass). MSPNP treats me well on my SR but it wouldn't be my first option, it just came with my swap and a close friend is really talented with it. Nismotronic with speed density is probably your best sub-$1000 option. It looks like you're in Reading which is perfect. Hit up HDT automotive, Matt will set you straight as an arrow on a great setup, and he's super close to you. I also have a number of KA-T goodies I'd consider letting go and I'm not far from Reading. shoot me a PM if you'd like. |
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04-25-2023, 05:43 AM | #23870 |
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For the first time in the 10 years I've owned my S13, this weekend it started giving me weird ebrake issues. Stock cables, PMU pads, GK tech seahorses, spin turn knob. It seems when drifting and using the handbrake at higher speeds (anything top of 2nd or faster) the handle almost locks itself in place (brakes engaged), which can be very sketchy when using it entering on a bank, which is how my home track is setup. I need to swiftly divert my attention to jostling/forcing it down, which is a pretty bad situation with multiple cars right behind you following your line.
I know it's not the knob pulling out because when this started happening, I made sure to only use the brake with my hand holding the button in (which is what the spin turn knob is supposed to prevent me having to do, but using it this way at least confirms it's not the spin turn knob causing the issue) and it didn't help the issue at all. In my eyes, the culprit could either be the handle, cables, or calipers. I want to rule out the cables as they seem least likely to fail like this. I am leaning towards it being sticking calipers rather than the handle since speed seems to affect it, and I'm not really sure how the handle could lock anything given the spring is deactivated. Anyone have input given my essay? |
04-25-2023, 07:42 AM | #23871 |
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Completely the opposite problem but after my car had been parked up for ages and I was overhauling the brake system I was having a hell of a time adjusting the rear calipers/parking brakes. I found that they had basically gotten overextended and wedged 'on' and my adjustments kept making it worse. I could see this happening intermittently when the brakes are hot with the extended lever arms. Not blaming the seahorses themselves, just that the extra leverage might make it easier to get in that state depending on how the pad thickness/rotor thickness/lever and cable adjustment/caliper adjustment all stack up.
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06-14-2023, 02:48 AM | #23872 |
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does anyone know if the sun visors are all the same in s13 models? specifically wondering if vert visors are the same as coupe/hatch.
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06-14-2023, 08:42 AM | #23873 |
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Nope they're different. The vert visors don't extend as far towards the middle, the coupe/hb visors have extensions that try to cover the area above the mirror, the vert has its dome light there.
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06-14-2023, 08:32 PM | #23874 |
Leaky Injector
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I’m using GTR diff axles and hubs and I want to get a spare set of axles as I’ve had to replace them a couple times at the track. I’ve heard 300zx tt or q45 axles work can you guys verify years and sides I should be looking for?
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06-22-2023, 11:09 PM | #23875 |
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really need help figuring out what plug my 5spd speed sensor should be wired into. is it the plug near the crossmember?
or is it one of the two plugs that are past the crossmember and towards the steering rack? i believe this is a full Wiring Specialties harness, and not an OEM lower harness, but i don't know enough to confirm. i do not see this Wiring Specialties female plug for a male plug to wire into. this is a 5spd swapped 93 KA24DE convertible
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06-23-2023, 07:36 AM | #23876 |
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Those three connectors you have shown are for the neutral switch, 4th gear switch, and 5th gear switch. The ECU uses the neutral switch for something emissions related I can't recall, 4th and 5th gear switches are for the speed limiter.
The speed sensor connector is further up, right by the starter. The speed sensor normally has like an 18" long harness on it. It's weird. |
06-23-2023, 10:10 AM | #23878 |
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Thank you both. Found the plug, ordered the sensor-end of the plug.
Interesting that since my car was manual swapped, the odometer hasn't rolled past 114k, because the speed sensor wasn't plugged in. So it might have 250k. It might still have 114k. Who knows.
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07-04-2023, 08:55 AM | #23879 |
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Anybody know the length of s13 manual seatbelts top bolts? The ones used to mount the bracket that swivels.
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07-19-2023, 09:03 PM | #23880 |
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Do I need this orifice for this line under the throttle body?
93 S13 KA24DE If so, does its direction matter? I believe the part number is 22321-D2200
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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