My S13 Build Progress - 56K Warning

[wannabe_drifter]

Let us know when you find about suspension.
I haven't done alot of search either but damn, I wish i could get rid of that understeer too

[jrmiller84]

Update

So the welder said he would have the pipe done today. Fucking awesome. He's only gonna charge me 17$ to get it removed so I'm going to give him probably twice that in tip since he's helping me out in getting the car running this weekend.

When I went out there today to get the pipe to give the welder, I gave her another try. Started right up again. She turned off the first time though because the maf isn't connected in line with the intake yet but when I turned it on again I gave it a little gas to keep her running.

Sounds like a beast It had some serious exhaust fumes but I'm guessing that's it burning off the crap from sitting for a while.

I am assuming it's going to run rough due to timing when I first really get it going. I followed the timing guide on heavy throttle when I had the motor out, but I don't believe that's all there is to it. Is there more than just aligning the marks on the CAS? It seems like there would be. I saw somewhere that you have to align marks on the cam gears with two dark links in the timing chain to get it back to factory timing. Is that correct? It's actually sad for me to admit, but I've never adjusted the timing on a vehicle before. I suppose I need to purchase/rent a timing light? I don't see just how aligning those marks on the CAS would do anything for the timing since there is nothing aligning the CAS with the cam gears.

Tonight I'm going to be finishing the exhaust, intercooler piping, and radiator fan wiring so that I can turn her on, leave her on, and really hear her growl.

[statik]

Originally Posted by jrmiller84

I am assuming it's going to run rough due to timing when I first really get it going. I followed the timing guide on heavy throttle when I had the motor out, but I don't believe that's all there is to it. Is there more than just aligning the marks on the CAS? It seems like there would be. I saw somewhere that you have to align marks on the cam gears with two dark links in the timing chain to get it back to factory timing. Is that correct? It's actually sad for me to admit, but I've never adjusted the timing on a vehicle before. I suppose I need to purchase/rent a timing light? I don't see just how aligning those marks on the CAS would do anything for the timing since there is nothing aligning the CAS with the cam gears.

Aligning chain marks on the cam gears is really for replacing cams or doing a timing chain, your mechanical timing should be fine. Purchase a timing light, some newer ones require you to use a spark plug wire from the KA between the plug/coil pack for accurate readings, you can tell when you try to do timing, mine is mad old and works fine right off the coil pack.

Stabbing the cas with the alignment marks will roughly give you base timing of 15* BTDC if you aligned the motor to TDC, if not you will need to restab it. Getting the motor to TDC on #1 is easy even with the valve cover on, simply use a looong screw driver and gently place it in the cylinder so it moves with the piston (obviously take the spark plug out), crank the motor by hand until the pulley mark is the 2nd from the left aligned with the timing pin on the cover, and the screw driver rises all the way up just before it starts to come down, thats TDC. Then you can align the cas marks as per FSM.

If you did all that originally then all you need to do is verify/adjust timing with the timing light. Bring the engine to operating temp, turn off the car, disconnect the TPS, turn on the car and rev the motor a few times over 3k, this will put it in timing mode, ignoring the MAF input so you can set base timing with the light. Before setting timing you may need to adjust your idle, but if you haven't touched the IACV idle adjustment screw it's probably in a good setting, if the idle is anywhere between 7-900 then its fine, otherwise use a screwdriver and adjust the idle, the screw can be accessed between the 3rd and 4th intake runners I believe on the stock manifold, screwing it in lowers the idle, unscrewing it raises the idle. If you relocated the battery to the trunk, connect the light + to the starter + connection, easiest way IMO, connect the ground anywhere and connect the pickup to the #1 coilpack, if it's not working or seems erratic you can try the KA plug wire trick. 15* BTDC is where you want it, thats the 2nd mark from the RIGHT. All of this is in the fsm of course, just ignore the parts where it wants you to use the Consult =]

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by statik

Aligning chain marks on the cam gears is really for replacing cams or doing a timing chain, your mechanical timing should be fine. Purchase a timing light, some newer ones require you to use a spark plug wire from the KA between the plug/coil pack for accurate readings, you can tell when you try to do timing, mine is mad old and works fine right off the coil pack.

Stabbing the cas with the alignment marks will roughly give you base timing of 15* BTDC if you aligned the motor to TDC, if not you will need to restab it. Getting the motor to TDC on #1 is easy even with the valve cover on, simply use a looong screw driver and gently place it in the cylinder so it moves with the piston (obviously take the spark plug out), crank the motor by hand until the pulley mark is the 2nd from the left aligned with the timing pin on the cover, and the screw driver rises all the way up just before it starts to come down, thats TDC. Then you can align the cas marks as per FSM.

If you did all that originally then all you need to do is verify/adjust timing with the timing light. Bring the engine to operating temp, turn off the car, disconnect the TPS, turn on the car and rev the motor a few times over 3k, this will put it in timing mode, ignoring the MAF input so you can set base timing with the light. Before setting timing you may need to adjust your idle, but if you haven't touched the IACV idle adjustment screw it's probably in a good setting, if the idle is anywhere between 7-900 then its fine, otherwise use a screwdriver and adjust the idle, the screw can be accessed between the 3rd and 4th intake runners I believe on the stock manifold, screwing it in lowers the idle, unscrewing it raises the idle. If you relocated the battery to the trunk, connect the light + to the starter + connection, easiest way IMO, connect the ground anywhere and connect the pickup to the #1 coilpack, if it's not working or seems erratic you can try the KA plug wire trick. 15* BTDC is where you want it, thats the 2nd mark from the RIGHT. All of this is in the fsm of course, just ignore the parts where it wants you to use the Consult =]

I set it to the 2nd mark from the left and aligned the CAS but I didnt check to see if it was at TDC. I plan on doing that part again, it's easy enough, especially since my valve cover is actually unbolted right now except for the center bolt near the spark plugs.

I'll get a light tonight since I'll probably need it today or tomorrow. Where in the S14 SR FSM does it talk about timing? All I can find is that image they have up on heavy throttle about setting the CAS. I understand you find out how many degrees off you are by using the timing gun, but then what are you supposed to adjust to get it right? If I remember correctly, the CAS has grooves so that it can rotate some clockwise and counterclockwise. it would make sense to turn that, am I correct?

To the search button I go.

[statik]

Originally Posted by jrmiller84

I set it to the 2nd mark from the left and aligned the CAS but I didnt check to see if it was at TDC when I did it. I plan on doing that part again, it's easy enough, especially since my valve cover is actually unbolted right now except for the center bolt near the spark plugs.

I'll get a light tonight since I'll probably need it today or tomorrow. Where in the S14 SR FSM does it talk about timing? All I can find is that image they have up on heavy throttle about setting the CAS. I understand you find out how many degrees off you are by using the timing gun, but then what are you supposed to adjust to get it right? If I remember correctly, the CAS has grooves so that it can rotate some clockwise and counterclockwise. it would make sense to turn that, am I correct?

To the search button I go.

In the PDF fsm go to page 139, should be the engine control index (EC), you can skip to PDF page 173 to the idle speed/ignition timing diagnostic section. The entire EC section explains how to test various parts/sensors such as tps, maf, injectors, cas etc. and diagnose issues with the car.

If you take the valve cover off you can check for TDC by making sure the front cam lobes face away from each other, intake at roughly 9 and exhaust at roughly 3, and that the crank pulley mark is at TDC.

You can adjust the cas by loosening the 2 bolts that hold it in just enough so the cas can spin easily, too tight and you will wind up making large jumps. Looking at the front of the motor it rotates front to back. You will notice that where you bolt the cas to the block it has long slits, not just 2 holes, this way the cas can be positioned accordingly and then locked in place.

[jrmiller84]

That's what I thought, I remembered seeing those slits but it didn't cross my mind until now. I'll probably just take the valve cover off and redo everything so I know it's right. Might as well put the new Iridiums in while I'm at it

I need to buy a water temp gauge tonight so I can tell when it's running at normal operating temperature and to make sure it's not overheating. My temp gauge in my cluster goes kinda crazy sometimes, as is the story with the stock temp gauge I hear.

[statik]

Originally Posted by jrmiller84

That's what I thought, I remembered seeing those slits but it didn't cross my mind until now. I'll probably just take the valve cover off and redo everything so I know it's right. Might as well put the new Iridiums in while I'm at it

I need to buy a water temp gauge tonight so I can tell when it's running at normal operating temperature and to make sure it's not overheating. My temp sensor in my cluster goes kinda crazy sometimes, as is the story with the stock temp. sensors I hear.

make sure you use the KA gauge cluster temp sensor (single wire) otherwise the cluster will read high when it is in fact at operating temp. Honestly a water temp gauge is cool and all, but not necessary for daily driving your car. If you have adequate cooling and a new thermostat I would not worry. If your stock sensor is acting funny maybe its time for a new one, otherwise when its in the middle and the idle settles you are good to go on the timing adjustments.

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by statik

make sure you use the KA gauge cluster temp sensor (single wire) otherwise the cluster will read high when it is in fact at operating temp. Honestly a water temp gauge is cool and all, but not necessary for daily driving your car. If you have adequate cooling and a new thermostat I would not worry. If your stock sensor is acting funny maybe its time for a new one, otherwise when its in the middle and the idle settles you are good to go on the timing adjustments.

I actually think it's my cluster that's going bad, not the sensor. I did put a new thermostat in and the radiator came with dual spal fans. As long as they're turning on and wired correctly, they should do a good job. I suppose since I have to get a new gauge cluster anyways due to mine being from an SOHC, it should fix the cluster problem. Just need to change out the sensor on the engine I suppose, although I haven't read about anyone doing that anywhere.

[jrmiller84]

Alright, got the cold pipe back. Barely made it there before they closed. Traffic is hell near UF at this time of the day.

The weld looks solid, I'll post pictures later. Just looks like a lump of solder now that will need grinding down. The pipes are all scratched up from me putting them in last night, they may need a good sanding and painting sometime in the future.

[statik]

Originally Posted by jrmiller84

Alright, got the cold pipe back. Barely made it there before they closed. Traffic is hell near UF at this time of the day.

The weld looks solid, I'll post pictures later. Just looks like a lump of solder now that will need grinding down. The pipes are all scratched up from me putting them in last night, they may need a good sanding and painting sometime in the future.

aluminum pipes polish up nicely and cover up scratches surprisingly well

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by statik

aluminum pipes polish up nicely and cover up scratches surprisingly well

Hmm, I'd rather do that then. While the engine paint looked good on the valve cover, I doubt painting aluminum pipes would yield the same results. With a name like Mothers, how can you go wrong?

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 24 [Back to index]

I got out there today and started to hook up the intercooler piping. I had a bitch of a time getting the BOV connected to the hotpipe. The C clip was so damn thick that it was hard as hell to get it to snap into place. Once I got that in, I drilled a hole for the nipple. I couldn't get it to thread in correctly so tomorrow I'm going to buy a threading kit and redo it with a slightly larger nipple. I was able to get the nipple on and bolt it from the inside temporarily but it was leaking slightly. I'll fix all of that tomorrow.

After that I connected the downpipe to the turbo outlet and got the entire exhaust finished, save for one hanger that I will have to go buy. I'm missing the hanger that connects to the tranny mount so I have to find a replacement.

I tried to take the valve cover off to do the timing but the center nut on the valve cover just kept spinning. It wouldn't come off no matter what I tried. I'm going to have to get a nut splitter (sounds painful) to break it off. The car wouldn't stay started so I'm assuming the timing is really messed up. I'll take care of that first thing tomorrow.

I promised I would have a startup video and todays the day. It was taken at night so the lighting is shitty but still. You can hear it start and blow off if you listen closely. The belts were screeching really loudly and in the video I said that I thought they may be too loose, but I actually think now that they may be too tight. Regardless, pardon my camera fright and enjoy!

[s13speeddrft]

sounds great man keep it up

[innovation]

Oh man, I'm not much of a poster, usually I just simply read and learn (still a noob). But I just HAD to post on this thread. Great video man. Car sounds like it will be a beast =D. Great write up also, I have been following this thread for quite a long time and has in some ways inspired me to take a stab at a swap. Anyways, I just want to say glad that the car finally coming to fruition and keep us posted with more updates. Great read!

[statik]

Originally Posted by jrmiller84

I tried to take the valve cover off to do the timing but the center nut on the valve cover just kept spinning. It wouldn't come off no matter what I tried. I'm going to have to get a nut splitter (sounds painful) to break it off. The car wouldn't stay started so I'm assuming the timing is really messed up. I'll take care of that first thing tomorrow.

Before you do any "nut splitting" try putting pressure on the nut as you loosen it, a small flathead screw driver usually does the trick.

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by statik

Before you do any "nut splitting" try putting pressure on the nut as you loosen it, a small flathead screw driver usually does the trick.

haha. I tried that while I was attempting to remove it. I got the flat head under there and it just wouldn't budge, just kept spinning. I'm not sure if the nut is rounded or the bolt. I tried lifting the valve cover up as well to put pressure on it and it still didn't move.

[420sx]

get a tool set for removing striped nuts. like 20 bux, and comes in a cool little case

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by 420sx

get a tool set for removing striped nuts. like 20 bux, and comes in a cool little case

I already have a kit for removing stripped nuts/bolts(sweat ass one from Sears). The problem is that the nut is either stripped on the inside or the bolt that it's on is stripped. The nut spins in place, it just doesn't come off of the bolt. That's why I have to split the nut instead of pulling it off.

[skippy]

that happend to me i just spinned it for like 30 mins straight and came out

[Chez]

just cut it off...sweet vid congrats on finally getting it to run. cant wait to see a driving vid.

[BlazedGlory]

That popping could be because the timing is too retarded... Would probably make it run pretty rough at idle as well (or not stay running)...

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 25 [Back to index]

Today was rather frustrating. I spent 90% of the day trying to get it to stay running. I set the timing correctly and it still doesn't stay on. I'm not sure why. I thought it might be a vacuum leak so I bought a tap and die set and fixed that nipple on the hotpipe. Once I got that done, I went through and made sure that the intercooler piping was all sealed. It looked fine to me. So I kept setting and resetting the timing and it just didn't want to stay on. I put in the new spark plugs and the same thing happens. Turns on fine, sputters, and then dies. I'm at a loss now...

Other than that though I also got my radiator fan wiring finally done. Too bad I couldn't test it out.

[niSm095]

a friend of mine had similar issues, and it was because he had dropped the transmission to fix his clutch, but when he dropped it, it accidently pulled out one wire from the harness on the transmission. It caused his car to do the same thing. He could keep it running for 30 seconds or so, but it had a really rough idle and then died out if he didn't continue to rev the motor. Just throwing the suggestion out there.

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by niSm095

a friend of mine had similar issues, and it was because he had dropped the transmission to fix his clutch, but when he dropped it, it accidently pulled out one wire from the harness on the transmission. It caused his car to do the same thing. He could keep it running for 30 seconds or so, but it had a really rough idle and then died out if he didn't continue to rev the motor. Just throwing the suggestion out there.

That's a possibility, I don't have the neutral sensor hooked up yet. Hmm.. I figured it would at least run without it but I wouldn't be able to drive it until I took care of that

[statik]

Originally Posted by jrmiller84

That's a possibility, I don't have the neutral sensor hooked up yet. Hmm.. I figured it would at least run without it but I wouldn't be able to drive it until I took care of that

it will run with every one of those sensors unplugged, when you are in timing adjustment mode does the car idle ok when you set timing? After you plug back in the TPS is when it wants to stall?

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by statik

it will run with every one of those sensors unplugged, when you are in timing adjustment mode does the car idle ok when you set timing? After you plug back in the TPS is when it wants to stall?

I can't even get it to stay started long enough (without giving it gas) for me to get it to normal operating temperature to adjust the timing. The only thing I could do is start it, jump out of the car really fast, keep it running by moving the throttle cable with my hand, and turn the CAS trying to get it to at least idle but that didn't do anything. I guess I could just keep starting it until it's slightly normal temp, unplug the TPS, start it and rev it and see if it idles then so that I can adjust it?? I'm not sure. Wait, was that what I was supposed to do anyways? Perhaps I was being an idiot... haha.

[altalti]

congrats on all your hard work just got done reading all 12 pages and my hat is off to you good luck getting the kinks worked out.

[Edgar]

pretty cool build thread you have going on here.
hope you get that thing running soon

[jrmiller84]

Update

Alright, so I think either the turbo or motor may be blown... After trying to keep the motor running by giving it gas, I noticed smoke coming from the exhaust manifold/turbo area. I got my fiance to watch the wastegate to see if it was actuating and it doesn't do anything when revving. I installed the boost gauge to see what kind of boost it was getting and it was shooting up to 15 psi, which if I remember correctly is too high for the stock turbo. I initially had the boost controller installed and I was worried it wasn't doing what it was supposed to so I hooked the wastegate directly to the intercooler piping and the wastegate still didn't actuate. I took the intake inlet off of the turbo to check for shaftplay but it feels fine.

I took the spark plugs out to attempt to reset the timing and noticed smoke coming from the 2nd valve from the back of the engine as well which scares the hell out of me. I thought that it may still be from the turbo but perhaps not.

EDIT: I just thought of something... When I took the turbo off to tighten it to the exhaust manifold, the exhaust manifold gasket was pretty shitty. It was almost severed in two in one place but it still was able to surround each exhaust tube. If that were the culprit, it could cause it to smoke. Now as far as the boost goes, could it still get that high of boost? One thing that throws me off is that my boost controller was reading very low boost initially (like 17 kPa which I believe is somewhere around 2-3 psi) while the gauge seemed to be reading very high. I'm confused by all of this mess.

[ni5mo240]

that sucks man, the wg actuator won't move just by revving the engine, to check it shoot compressed air with a nozzle into the wg actuator line and you should see it open and close.