[HippoSleek]

I've preached enough here about the slotted vs. drilled vs. blanks debate. &nbsp;Do a search and you will get good insight. &nbsp;My advice is blanks for use, drills for looks, and slots for <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>

Some new points: &nbsp;the reason you see certain race cars with drilled rotors is for the heat dissipation they offer during endurance events. &nbsp;This is not necessary for street driving or even track days - you won't be able to tell the difference (note: SCCA class racing requires blanks - the performance is obviously enough).

Plating just keeps the center (non-pad contacting) section from rusting - it does not affect the ability to turn them. &nbsp;It's benefits will remain after turning since they only turn the pad contacting area.

Turning can be done to any rotor - even cryo treated ones. &nbsp;You can turn them until they reach a minimum thickness.

Order of replacement (pads to rotors) is a curious topic. &nbsp;Best: &nbsp;replace or turn rotors for every new set of pads. &nbsp;Do this at the same time. &nbsp;The pads will bed in on the fresh rotor surface and not inherit its scars. &nbsp;If you run different pad compounds you should have a dedicated set of rotors for each - otherwise you will eat through pricey pads and rotors at an alarming rate! &nbsp;For example, I run a light race pad now, but will be returning to more of a street pad this winter b/c my $140 pads are too much to waste for daily driving.

It is okay to replace the rotors and leave the old pads on. &nbsp;They will bed in to the new rotor - but you might get some rotor scarring from the already scarred pad. &nbsp;This will cause your new rotors to get worn a bit faster.

Do NOT put new pads on old rotors -especially high friction co-ef. pads. &nbsp;It will burn up both the rotors and the pads too fast. &nbsp;This is a total waste of money and will not give you the stopping power these items are capable of.