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I've preached enough here about the slotted vs. drilled vs. blanks debate. Do a search and you will get good insight. My advice is blanks for use, drills for looks, and slots for <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>
Some new points: the reason you see certain race cars with drilled rotors is for the heat dissipation they offer during endurance events. This is not necessary for street driving or even track days - you won't be able to tell the difference (note: SCCA class racing requires blanks - the performance is obviously enough).
Plating just keeps the center (non-pad contacting) section from rusting - it does not affect the ability to turn them. It's benefits will remain after turning since they only turn the pad contacting area.
Turning can be done to any rotor - even cryo treated ones. You can turn them until they reach a minimum thickness.
Order of replacement (pads to rotors) is a curious topic. Best: replace or turn rotors for every new set of pads. Do this at the same time. The pads will bed in on the fresh rotor surface and not inherit its scars. If you run different pad compounds you should have a dedicated set of rotors for each - otherwise you will eat through pricey pads and rotors at an alarming rate! For example, I run a light race pad now, but will be returning to more of a street pad this winter b/c my $140 pads are too much to waste for daily driving.
It is okay to replace the rotors and leave the old pads on. They will bed in to the new rotor - but you might get some rotor scarring from the already scarred pad. This will cause your new rotors to get worn a bit faster.
Do NOT put new pads on old rotors -especially high friction co-ef. pads. It will burn up both the rotors and the pads too fast. This is a total waste of money and will not give you the stopping power these items are capable of.
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11-02-2001, 08:18 AM
Hybrid Mode
