Quote:
Originally Posted by UNISA JECS
You know when you wire in a SR20DET the check engine light does not work, you need to add a wire to get the MIL light to work.
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There where no codes on the ECU, so even if it had i MIL it would not be on.
just to give you guys a better update on whats going on with the car, here is an up to date list on what i have done so far...
-No codes on ECU
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors (370's)
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-checked for boost leaks
-checked for vaccum leaks
-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)
-checked vaccum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked alternator
-checkes fuel pressure regulator
-checked timing chain (just top two timing marks, not bottom)
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
-re-checked ecu (good)
-re-checked maf (good)
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-checked ignitor
-checked to make sure all cylinders are fireing
-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel
-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro
-installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)
**here are the symptoms i still have**
-lopey idle (very very rough, whole car shakes, it actually broke one of my new autometer gages)
-missing at idle
-low boost 5psi max
-low vacuum
-almost stalls after revving
-lack of power
and here is a strange fact, when i checked for boost leaks, there where no leaks in the piping, but alot of air did come out of PCV. (the T fitting in the valve cover)