Missing and Stalling at idle.I've Spent 2,000$+trying to fix. Its Cursed HELP!

[UNISA JECS]

You know when you wire in a SR20DET the check engine light does not work, you need to add a wire to get the MIL light to work.

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by UNISA JECS

You know when you wire in a SR20DET the check engine light does not work, you need to add a wire to get the MIL light to work.

There where no codes on the ECU, so even if it had i MIL it would not be on.

just to give you guys a better update on whats going on with the car, here is an up to date list on what i have done so far...

-No codes on ECU
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors (370's)
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-checked for boost leaks
-checked for vaccum leaks
-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)
-checked vaccum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked alternator
-checkes fuel pressure regulator
-checked timing chain (just top two timing marks, not bottom)
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
-re-checked ecu (good)
-re-checked maf (good)
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-checked ignitor
-checked to make sure all cylinders are fireing
-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel
-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro
-installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)

**here are the symptoms i still have**

-lopey idle (very very rough, whole car shakes, it actually broke one of my new autometer gages)
-missing at idle
-low boost 5psi max
-low vacuum
-almost stalls after revving
-lack of power

and here is a strange fact, when i checked for boost leaks, there where no leaks in the piping, but alot of air did come out of PCV. (the T fitting in the valve cover)

[xcye12]

Did you check the CAM sensor?

Originally Posted by redsx13

There where no codes on the ECU, so even if it had i MIL it would not be on.

just to give you guys a better update on whats going on with the car, here is an up to date list on what i have done so far...

-No codes on ECU
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors (370's)
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-checked for boost leaks
-checked for vaccum leaks
-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)
-checked vaccum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked alternator
-checkes fuel pressure regulator
-checked timing chain (just top two timing marks, not bottom)
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
-re-checked ecu (good)
-re-checked maf (good)
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-checked ignitor
-checked to make sure all cylinders are fireing
-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel
-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro
-installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)

**here are the symptoms i still have**

-lopey idle (very very rough, whole car shakes, it actually broke one of my new autometer gages)
-missing at idle
-low boost 5psi max
-low vacuum
-almost stalls after revving
-lack of power

and here is a strange fact, when i checked for boost leaks, there where no leaks in the piping, but alot of air did come out of PCV. (the T fitting in the valve cover)

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by xcye12

Did you check the CAM sensor?

I was told that if the cam angle sensor was bad the car wouldn't even run.

[ANVIL]

Originally Posted by redsx13

I was told that if the cam angle sensor was bad the car wouldn't even run.

not always the case. if its on its way out it can cause misfires, runing rough and whatever else symptoms from the timing being off. test with a known working one