Urgent clutch problem, high engangement, slipping

[nocturnaldrifter]

Okay so I replaced my clutch slave cyclinder and master cylinder last week (unfortunatly I hadto use shitty aftermarket ones for the time being until I can get nissan oem ones). Anyways everything was fine for a week my clutch was engaging fine and everything was cool...my clutch usually engaged high.

BUT, today I was driving around and I felt the clutch was engaging a little too high, in fact way too high it was almost engaged when the clutch pedal was fully out...I could put it into first at times...then I started to notice the clutch slippping a bit while driving, I took it home easy in low gears and now I am trying to figure out what to check first, I am almost positive it is the rod on the master cylinder that I need to adjust...but I am not 100% sure which way to adjust it towards the firewall or back away?

Please anyone who has expierenced anything similar leave me some feedback it would be much appreciated!

[IngS14]

look at your clutch pedal if is even with brake pedal if not adjust towrd the firewall and test drive it see how it feels,let me know if this help or not.

[Slidin240Wayz]

I also want to suggest re-bleeding the system.

Carlos

[nocturnaldrifter]

I am going to go ahead and try to make it even with my brake pedal and try re adjusting it to make it closer to the firewall hopefully that will allow it to engage midway through pressing it instead of at the top.

[sepulchral]

had same prob, readjusted rod behidn clutch slave, youll need to unbolt the slave cylinder then shorten the rod by turning the nut 5 times or so

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...utch+slips+hot

look @ that

[nocturnaldrifter]

Sepulchral...are you sure it's the slave cylinder and not the master? I was thinking I need to shorten the rod which is actually located right above the clutch pedal in the car...

[nocturnaldrifter]

Alright so update!

My clutch is acting fine until I drive around for like an hour then the clutch gets harder to press in and the engagement point gets higher! It's so weird and frustrating, I am going to try re bleeding.

[fliprayzin240sx]

adjust the pedal and yes its the shaft behind the pedal itself. Adjust it and feel where the clutch engages/disengages. There should be about 1/4 of play on top of where it engages/disengages.

[robertftw]

if you have a slave from like autozone make sure you have a 8mm wrench and some brake fluid with you, i've had 3 diffrent ones and they all lost preasure after 2 weeks (pos). adjusting the master should fix your problem.

[johngriff]

Its not oing to be bleeding, if it is too high, then it has plenty of pressure.

write up ftw.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...47#post1089147

[nocturnaldrifter]

I red bled the entire system and I solved the problem.

The clutch now works fine I didnt bleed the dampner box last time when I first replaced the slave cylinder.

So I figured that there were probably some air bubbles traveling through the clutch system that casued the clutch to act up, I bled the dampner box which had a lot of old gross fluid in it and then re bled the slave cylinder as well. This solved my problem and my clutch now engages and disengages much lower.

I am going to adjust the pedal a bit to get it exactly where i want it, but yeah..

case closed! thanks for the info guys

[nocturnaldrifter]

so it's starting to act up again, I adjusted the rod towards the firewall i think a little too much becasue after driving the engage/disengage point is like basically on the floor...I can barely get into gear and I need my tools to fix it again...it has got to be in between where i was before and where i am at now because before it was too high, and now it is too low...fucking aftermarket master cylinder is a piece of shit and so is the afermarket slave.

[misfitsfreak81]

yeah i have kinda the same issue. i have adjusted and readjusted it about 5 times now. and it does seem to change after driving it for a bit. this leads me to believe that its not in the hydralic system. more likely a warped clutch disc or bent/wornout pressure plate. im gonna be changeing out my clutch here shortly and will let you know if it fixes the problem.

mike

[nocturnaldrifter]

So, I have re-bled the system and adjusted the rod on the master cylinder several times but I stillhave the problem.

After the car is running for about 20-30 minutes and everyting gets hot the clutch stiffens up and the engagement point becomes much higher. No matter how I set the rod on the master cylinder this happens so it is not an adjustment issue. I have no idea what this could be...please respond fi you have any idea as to what this could be

[ViZion Zs]

your sure its not the clutch itself? any noise comming when the car is in nuetral while running with your foot off the clutch? you need to force bleet it with a vac bleeder or a push bleeded like service shops use.

[misfitsfreak81]

how old is the clutch? have you every had the tranny off? if so did you check/replace the pilot bushing? i have had this same problem goin on for a bit now and just replaced the clutch and flywheel. in the process i replaced the pilot bushing, but get this, there was NO pilot bushing in there in the first place. there was the pilot converter which is used for the auto tranny. so i came to the conclusion that my motor was shipped from japan as an auto and someone swaped the 5spd on to it to sell it for more money. pretty shitty if you ask me. the pilot converter will not allow the clutch to fully disengage and it only gets worse as it gets warmer. so drop your tranny, check that you dont have a pilot converter instead of a pilot bushing, and be ready to buy a new disk and pressure plate and possibly flywheel cause chances are your old ones are fucked. hope this helps you out. if you need a picture of what the pilot converter looks like here it is http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=90797
hope this helps you out.

mike

[harlockssx]

Originally Posted by nocturnaldrifter

So, I have re-bled the system and adjusted the rod on the master cylinder several times but I stillhave the problem.

After the car is running for about 20-30 minutes and everyting gets hot the clutch stiffens up and the engagement point becomes much higher. No matter how I set the rod on the master cylinder this happens so it is not an adjustment issue. I have no idea what this could be...please respond fi you have any idea as to what this could be

That sounds to me that your fluid/lines are getting heated up excessively. I would check the routing of your lines & anything that's close to exhaust/turbo I would insulate with quality heat wrap...also, I would switch to synthetic or synthetic blend DOT 3 or 4, as they have a higher boiling point than regular. My brother has a similar problem with an SR-equipped Datsun 1200 (~1700 lbs & 300 hp!) where his brake master cylinder & lines were getting heated up by his turbo causing his brakes to start dragging or lock up after 20 minutes of driving. He had to relocate & wrap a bunch of stuff, as well as make a heat shield for the turbo/manifold.

[nocturnaldrifter]

That's exactly what I was thinking, the fluid I am using is DOT3 but still I dont know about it...I also am using an aftermarket oem replacement clutch slave and master cylinder which could also be adding to the heating up of the fluid problems?

For Mike - I will check the pilot bushing if the heating dosnt correct it...

This is so annoying I am gonna have to trial and error all theses things

Thanks guys

[misfitsfreak81]

hope you figure it out. by the way, what harlockssx said about synthetic dot 3 or dot 4; they dont exist. i know that the bottle will say synthetic or synthetic blend but its bullshit. the ONLY true synthetic brake fluid is dot5. thats it. and its run in VERY few vehicles.

heres the deal. if you have a car (like say oh a s13) that has specified a dot 3 or dot 4 brake fluid. DONT EVER run dot 5 in place of it. dont mix it, dont do anything with it. unless you have a major vendetta against all of the seals in the hydralic systems on your car. dot5 synthetic will rot the seals faster than hell. this is just to clear up the misunderstanding about "synthetic" dot 3 or dot 4 fluid. run a high performance brake fluid like motul or project mu or ate super blue.

harlockssx, im not tryin to bust your balls here, just trying to make it clear what the differences are between the various dot fluids out there.

mike

[nocturnaldrifter]

Mike,

Thanks for the dot 5 clear up, I was actually jsut searching the forums for wehther or not I could use ate superblue for the clutch fluid because i wasnt 100% positive if brake and clutch fluid were exactly the same...I have a sneaking suspiscion that my problems are coming from :

A. Air still trapped in the system, aka not bled properly
B. Crappy fluid that gets too thin when heated up (don't know how likeley this is)
C. Both

I am getting ready to go get under my car right now and re bled this bitch THROUGHLY, I think I am going to use this can of ate super blue too or go get a nice dot 4 brake fluid from motul...I will post the results up afterwards.

-Adham

[nocturnaldrifter]

Okay, clutch is now completely bled, new dot 3/4 brake fluid inside, clutch feels good...but only time will tell.