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Old 02-17-2008, 01:33 PM   #1
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How To: Rebuild Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder

I was bored this weekend and decided to make this guide.

Parts needed:
Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit with new Piston(valve in piston tends to go making difficult to bleed.)
Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit
1qt. Brake Fluid.
Glass or Metal Cup to hold Brake Fluid.
Parts washer or Wash tub.
Toothbrush.


Master Cylinder rebuild:

1) Secure the MC. I used a vice 2nd set of hands work also.


2) Inspect the Rebuild Kit and lay it out.


From top left clockwise. Rod boot, Piston, Rod Clip, Piston Retaining Pin O Ring, Spring.


3) Remove and clean fluid reservoir.



4) Remove rod boot. Remove Clip holding rod cup. Remove Rod



Replace dust boot.


You can see the Piston now.


5) Push the piston in slightly and remove it's retaining pin(screw)



6) Replace the O ring on the pin with the one in the kit.



Release the piston and it will pop up.



7) Remove old piston and spring and discard. Note any damage.



8)Clean the Housing. Soap and water, Toothbrush work the best.



Any damage, scoring or wear make the housing worthless. Toss and get another.


9) Soak Piston in Brake Fluid. This lubricates the seals and primes the valve.


10) Install new spring on the new piston.
11) Install Piston in housing. Install retaining pin(screw).
12) Install Rod and Cup with new retaining C clip.
13) Install Dust cap.
14) Install Reservoir.



Slave time.

1) Inspect parts and SC.




2) Remove Boot. Rod will come with. Replace boot on rod and set aside.


3) Remove piston. Ether by air in the line in or banging the open side.



4) Inspect Piston and Bore for scoring or wear. Again any damage and the unit is trash. Buy a new one.



5) Replace piston seal




6) Place piston in brake fluid to lubricate.
7) Reinstall piston in bore.




7) Resintall boot and rod.

Done.


Questions? Comments? Suggestions?
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Old 02-17-2008, 02:11 PM   #2
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great write up..
vote sticky ?

+1

damn... ive given out to much rep..
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Old 02-17-2008, 02:57 PM   #3
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good stuff. Archive this.
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Old 02-17-2008, 09:36 PM   #4
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good shit dude, archive for sure
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Old 02-17-2008, 09:45 PM   #5
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You should do this for z/skyline calipers. Master and slave cylinders are so cheap that there is pretty much no point in re-building them.
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Old 02-18-2008, 12:03 AM   #6
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You should do this for z/skyline calipers. Master and slave cylinders are so cheap that there is pretty much no point in re-building them.
New Master is $100 and a New slave is $50. The MC kit with new piston was less than $15 and the Slave Kit was less than $10. I dunno how you can call ether cheap in comparison.

I may do other write ups in the future. This was sort a feeler.
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Old 02-18-2008, 01:25 AM   #7
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Ya but 99% of the time the bore is scored anyways. You cannot hone an aluminum cylinder as all of them have a special anti-wear coating, without that coating the bore will score extremely easily. Re-building a master cylinder is a bad idea in my opinion. $100 is not a lot of money to spend on a modified car, or ANY car for that matter.
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Old 02-18-2008, 01:52 AM   #8
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I can head to my favorite shop and pick up OEM master and slave for $60 out the door. So I'm good. But even though I can pick em up, the DIYer in me wants to rebuild the ones I have now for the hell of it. Thanks for the writeup S14DB.
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Old 02-18-2008, 06:27 AM   #9
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Very nice information to have man thanks alot
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Old 02-18-2008, 07:26 AM   #10
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Where was this last month AJ? I ended up buying new ones!!!
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Old 02-18-2008, 07:33 AM   #11
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i agree great writeup but i just bought new ones myself and put them on last month . now you should figure the size of the fittings to make a hardline dude between them
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Old 02-18-2008, 08:08 AM   #12
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Excellent write-up.

Do you have part numbers for the re-build kits?

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now you should figure the size of the fittings to make a hardline dude between them
Agency Power makes a SS replacement line.

Carlos
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Old 02-18-2008, 08:19 AM   #13
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i already have one myself
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Old 02-18-2008, 08:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Ya but 99% of the time the bore is scored anyways. You cannot hone an aluminum cylinder as all of them have a special anti-wear coating, without that coating the bore will score extremely easily. Re-building a master cylinder is a bad idea in my opinion. $100 is not a lot of money to spend on a modified car, or ANY car for that matter.

i have rebuilt 4 master cylinders and 3 slave cylinders.. they are extremely easy and i have yet to see one where the bore was scored. normally the seal on the piston gets a rip in it. but if u feel more comfortable buying one then by all means do that.
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:29 AM   #15
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now we should have a write up on how to properly bleed the system...i am having so much trouble =(
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Old 02-18-2008, 12:11 PM   #16
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now we should have a write up on how to properly bleed the system...i am having so much trouble =(
That's why I say to spend the extra $5 on the MC kit with the new piston. Makes it so much easier to bleed with the new valve.

I assume you removed the damper and loop.
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Old 02-18-2008, 03:38 PM   #17
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now we should have a write up on how to properly bleed the system...i am having so much trouble =(
You must ALWAYS bench bleed the master cylinder before you install it. If you don't it will take forever to get all the air out of the system.
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Old 02-18-2008, 03:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post

I assume you removed the damper and loop.
what is that thing for, anyway?
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Old 02-18-2008, 04:13 PM   #19
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Clutch Master-$23.99
Slave-$17.99
Available everyday at Oriely's. Sorry but there is no point in rebuilding them when I can get new ones for that much. Great sticky but I never bother rebuilding them. I also remove the damper since it only causes problems.

Last edited by coolcatracing; 02-18-2008 at 04:39 PM..
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Old 02-18-2008, 04:13 PM   #20
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what is that thing for, anyway?
Makes the pedal movement and feel more comfortable. N/H/V issue. I don't think anyone is here is big enough pansy to care.

It's a PITA to bleed cause the loop has to be level with the ground in order to get all the air out. Most people just put the front end on jackstands to bleed and it's not level. Need a lift or 2 sets of jackstands to get the whole car in the air and level.
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Old 02-18-2008, 04:34 PM   #21
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Makes the pedal movement and feel more comfortable. N/H/V issue. I don't think anyone is here is big enough pansy to care.

It's a PITA to bleed cause the loop has to be level with the ground in order to get all the air out. Most people just put the front end on jackstands to bleed and it's not level. Need a lift or 2 sets of jackstands to get the whole car in the air and level.
i took it out and never noticed a difference in pedal feel, but maybe because my whole car vibrates. thanks for the reply.
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Old 02-18-2008, 04:49 PM   #22
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It's impossible to bleed the clutch line if you have the damper. You need a power bleeder.
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Old 02-18-2008, 04:52 PM   #23
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Clutch Master-$23.99
Slave-$17.99
Available everyday at Oriely's. Sorry but there is no point in rebuilding them when I can get new ones for that much. Great sticky but I never bother rebuilding them. I also remove the damper since it only causes problems.
Those aren't new, those are rebuilds that you have to return a core. Same thing I am doing here with crappy seals to save money and bulk processing. I think many can attest to the fact those blow out fast. I can get the seals for $5 and $3 that they used. I bought the most expensive Japanese kits and spent under $25 for both.
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Old 02-20-2008, 08:22 PM   #24
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It's impossible to bleed the clutch line if you have the damper. You need a power bleeder.
I wish I knew that the first time I tried to replace my slave. Had to have the car towed to the dealer. 3 hours of bleeding later...at dealer labor prices. I'm getting a headache just thinking about it. I could have wasted that money on way more useless stuff.


I was also wondering about the part number on those rebuild kits. Do they make them for the nismo slave as well?
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Old 02-20-2008, 08:40 PM   #25
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+1 for the write up. Next time mine goes out I'm going to try this instead of buying new ones.
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:08 PM   #26
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just wanted to say thanks for the writeup. saved me a lil cash. with the slave cylinder i couldnt figure out how to get the piston out. had an old grease gun lyin around, threaded it in and voila! just incase that helps anyone.
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:16 PM   #27
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I used a air compressor but, banging it on a wood table works too.
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:22 PM   #28
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Where can I get a rebuild kit for this?
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:35 PM   #29
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New Master is $100 and a New slave is $50. The MC kit with new piston was less than $15 and the Slave Kit was less than $10. I dunno how you can call ether cheap in comparison.

I may do other write ups in the future. This was sort a feeler.
He's rich, now post up a rebuild for brake calipers lol.
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Old 12-05-2008, 04:47 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
Where can I get a rebuild kit for this?
i got mine at autozone. im guessin any major parts store will have it mang. Kragen, Autozone, napa, maybe even Pep Boys.
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That first picture is totally bad ass.

It just screams, "Hey, I'm a fucking Christmas Tree. What are you gonna do about it?"
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