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Old 10-04-2005, 08:50 AM   #1
rim_bender
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Removing auto tranny pilot bushing

Ic ant seems ot get this thign out at all. There is no ridge inside of it where a pilot bushing oullewr can grab onto and rip it out. Its also not a soft material like the manual one.

so im lost

Somone help me out thanks
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Old 10-04-2005, 09:14 AM   #2
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I used a jackhandle of one of those smaller jacks. It had a handle of about the diameter of the bushing. Stick it in and move back and forth and it came after a couple minutes. Don't put it in too far as to scar the inside past the bushing.
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Old 10-04-2005, 11:30 AM   #3
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my friend just sawed the sides off a little bit so he could stick a screw driver in it and pry it out, but we were doing a manual swap, if you're doing that then you should have no problem messing it up
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Old 10-05-2005, 05:07 AM   #4
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Other suggestions...

The inside diameter of the auto tranny pilot converter / bushing (Nissan part # 12330-42L00) is approximately 13/16" - I have used a snug fitting bolt and wedged it inside, actually force threading it in place enough to grip it and pull it out. Also, if you pack the inside of the bushing with grease and then fit a slightly smaller diameter bolt inside, you can then tap the bolt in, forcing the grease to "hydraulically" push the pilot bushing out. As the bolt goes in, pack a little more grease, tap it again, and you should see incremental movement of the bushing.
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Old 10-05-2005, 11:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro
The inside diameter of the auto tranny pilot converter / bushing (Nissan part # 12330-42L00) is approximately 13/16" - I have used a snug fitting bolt and wedged it inside, actually force threading it in place enough to grip it and pull it out. Also, if you pack the inside of the bushing with grease and then fit a slightly smaller diameter bolt inside, you can then tap the bolt in, forcing the grease to "hydraulically" push the pilot bushing out. As the bolt goes in, pack a little more grease, tap it again, and you should see incremental movement of the bushing.
The grease method works great most of the time. I've had good luck with sockets that are slightly smaller than the diamter of the pilot bushing. Just put an extension on it and hammer it in and the grease pops it out.
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Old 10-05-2005, 12:43 PM   #6
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I used a freaking monkey/plumber wrench...
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Old 10-05-2005, 04:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killjoy
I used a jackhandle of one of those smaller jacks. It had a handle of about the diameter of the bushing. Stick it in and move back and forth and it came after a couple minutes. Don't put it in too far as to scar the inside past the bushing.

It's so simple, it's genious. Been scratchin' my head for a while at this. It's hard to get at with channel locks. Tried the chisels a bit, but I thought they'd hurt the other part too. Heated it with the gun, then the torch. I even tossed a little grease in there. I was about to break out the dremel (RTX actually) or the drill when I read this thread. I grabbed a jack handle, ground down the edge a bit and BAM!! 30 seconds later here we are a beaming beacon of success. The world is my oyster. I'm King of the World!
Here's to you, adapter bearing -->

Ok, enuf of this. Thanks for the tip. Now back to work.
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:00 PM   #8
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this thread helped a shit ton. thanks a bunch.

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Old 12-02-2006, 05:22 PM   #9
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Well this thread has helped but I'm still stuck.

I have tried EVERY method suggested and no luck. First of all I can't find a bolt that fits the hole snug enough.

Also how deep does this thing actually go? The first ridge I thought.

Here's what I did first: got a 1/4" cold chisel and decided to cut it out. Well after about 10 seconds I realized that it was really hard metal. The chisel works at cutting but there's no room for the cut metal to go once you get to the inside portion.

So I tried the greasse mthod with a 14mm deep socket and a bolt that fits inside to provide a good seal. I'm thinking it's not working cause you can't drive the socket too far in the hole for the pressure to work on the bearing. so that options not working. Which way do you put the socket in forwards or backwards?

I tried the jack handle no luck. My handle fits in the hole but it's not tight enough to allow for a wedging effect to work it out. I also tried the screwdriver option, just didn't work at all.

I finally got to a set of vise-grips and just grabbed onto the lip and started pulling....it doesn't even move. I'm thinking with all the chisel work I got it wedged so tight against the crank that it just doesn't want to move. I can rotate the entire crank by grabbing the lip with channel locks and turning it!! I think that spells bad news.

Any more suggestions?? I'm ready to fuckin blow this car up I swear.
Anyone live near the UCR area and want to make a quick buck to help me get this fucking thing out? ANYONE!!!

Help guys!!
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Old 12-02-2006, 11:40 PM   #10
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I was in the bath when it finally dawned on me.....the Dremel!!

Use the round sanding wheel and thin the bushing out , then voila collapse it and I'm done. Just gotta make sure I don't go too far in....!!!

Fuckin DUH!!!!

Thanks anyways guys.
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:20 AM   #11
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vatozone tool with slight mods will work

The teeth of the vatozone tool look like - I_I
just grind it to look like - \I
Hope this helps and yes I suck at ascii art :P
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Old 12-03-2006, 01:15 PM   #12
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if you get really fed up.. soak it in PB blaster.. the get a LARGE christmas tree drill bit and bite onto it and try that.. or just get a die grinder and grind it out thin then smack it to break it in two with a small flat head punch.
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Old 12-03-2006, 09:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ViZion Zs
if you get really fed up.. soak it in PB blaster.. the get a LARGE christmas tree drill bit and bite onto it and try that.. or just get a die grinder and grind it out thin then smack it to break it in two with a small flat head punch.
Yeah i'm gonna do the grinding option with my dremel. Shouldn't have any problems. Just won't get to it until tomorrow night.

Thanks for the tip.
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Old 12-04-2006, 07:22 AM   #14
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couldn't you just use a slide hammer and a bearing puller adaptor?
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Old 12-09-2006, 11:29 PM   #15
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That stupid bushing was so far the worst part of the swap. Worse than removing the auto brake pedal.

I ended up using the dremel with the grinding wheel, not the sanding wheel. Works faster. Then once I got the bushing thin enough I just hit it with a chisel to finish off the last piece still holding it together. Vice grips squeezed it and pop!! out it came.

Thanks guys for the tips. ALMOST DONE!!!
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