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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Leaky Injector
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![]() I just bought a 98 manaul kouki and I can't redline it. It would go all the way up to about 5k and bounces back forcing me to shift early.
![]() I also have a steering problem. I would be able bust a easy uturn with my old s14 but this new one can't do it for shit. I would have to put it in reverse in order for me to complete my uturn. ![]() Please help me fix this. Thanks |
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#2 |
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my 95 ka wouldnt redline either.. it went to 5200rpm. ITS ANNOYING AS SHIT HUH!!? didnt really care cuz i just started the engine swap a little earlier than expected. But i would like to know what it was.
the steering isue. check your inner tie rods. mine were bad. and did this as well. SO I WENT TEIN! haha. |
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#3 |
Leaky Injector
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the redline problem may have to do with your MAF. My maf was bad, and I was bogging down and my tach was only reaching 5200 exactly like you say. I have already gone through two MAFs from the junk yard dont have the funds lately for a new one, but get a new one if you can. about $300 usually.
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'91 B13 Sentra 1.6L Full Exhaust; '04 B15 Sentra 1.8S; '89 S13 240SX XE CPE 2.4L |
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#4 |
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definetly inner tie rods hahah. as for the not being able to redline, it's called a rev limiter. on my friends s13 we just unplugged the 5th gear sensor on the tranny and it took care of it. i don't know how it would be on a s14 though...but its worth a try.
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#5 | ||
Leaky Injector
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Thanks guys, anyone else? |
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#7 |
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MAF isnt the problem unless the car is physically bucking. MAF issues ussually make it so the car will not rev over 3k. @5k or so, it sounds more like a 4th and 5th gear sensor.
What gear is it in?
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#8 | |
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#9 | ||
Leaky Injector
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#11 |
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ever heard of a governer ? .. it might be that .. itll stop your car from redlining.. so when u try to go really really really fast.. itll stop you .. my friend had the same problem .. go to a local (homie/connect) auto repair shop and ask to take it out .. if that isnt the problem then i dont know what it is ... good luck
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#12 |
Leaky Injector
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how can i put this the right way? But, a MAF gone bad does not always act uniform for a vehicle... does the problem occur during open-loop or closed-loop operation? Open loop is before warming up the engine when the computer only runs the essential and does not adjust for sensor readings... cuz if you have the problem in open loop it may be something else. Oscilloscopes are the only way to test a MAF... from what i have heard. The best way to know is borrow another s14 maf for the same engine. I have a ka on my s13 and my maf was causing the same problem.
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'91 B13 Sentra 1.6L Full Exhaust; '04 B15 Sentra 1.8S; '89 S13 240SX XE CPE 2.4L |
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#13 | |
Leaky Injector
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Thanks! I'll see if I can figure this out first. I'll pm if its the last resort. |
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#14 |
Zilvia Member
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...go make sure all your sensors are attached on ur transmission...if theres some or one, broken...re-connect all the wires...i had this problem and i looked down at my tranny and one of the sensors was loose...not sure which one but im 100% sure thats ur problem
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#15 | ||
Leaky Injector
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#16 |
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Wow, I'm waiting for Russ to jump in here and start flaming all you guys for the misinformation.
No it's NOT normal for the KA not to reach redline. If you're having trouble with the engine topping out at 5200 rpms, is it in every gear? I would definitely start at the MAF. First off sounds like you have novice experience in cars, which leads me to believe you have little to no diagnostic tools at your disposal. First thing you need to do is check your ECU for codes. You're prolly throwing a couple codes that have to with air flow and the fuel system. Also as far as MAFs being bad, that's pretty rare to begin with, most of the time they just need a good cleaning. It is after all a sensor. Get some MAF cleaner from autozone and follow the cans directions for cleaning your MAF. you also might want to download the appropriate FSM for your car and start reading. Dropping a SR in your car is only going to prove one thing, you really have no knowledge of cars. Swapping in another motor just because you have performance problems doesn't make you cool, just lazy cause you didn't try hard enough to solve the problem. And pretty soon you'll have problems with the new motor and be trying to swap that out cause you don't know what the hell you're doing. Do us all a favor and don't just buy a 240 to redline it until the engine blows, all the while thinking you're cool. And FYI, a stock KA engine doesn't offer much power past 5000 rpms. The only reason I can think of for you pushing it that hard is your showing off around town, trying to drift on the street. If that's the case, you're just dumb. Keep it on the track where it belongs. And hopefully you have your car long enough to learn about how it works before you total it into a street light. Drive smart, be safe.
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#18 | |
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#19 | |
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I was doing the swap anyways, didnt want to dick around with fixing a motor i was going to yank out. That idea sounded pointless to me. Sure there is some stuff i am not a expert at. If i have problems with the new motor, i will fix them. Not swap it out. I dont want to do pointless work. That is not being lazy I just bought the car. You cant tell me you dont push a car to see how it performs right after you buy it. I agree, Be safe. DONT put innocent people in danger. THATS FUCKING STUPID! |
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#20 | |
Leaky Injector
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Uhh.... I'm not trying drift, race, be cool or be stupid. I'm just trying to see if my new purchase is working properly. But yeah, I'll clean my maf and download the fsm. Thanks anyway. |
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#21 |
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I'm pretty sure it's the governer. The car thinks it's in 5th gear the entire time. Have you tryed the whole unplugging the 5th gear sensor thing?
and as for Dream240, a KA does offer a shitload of power after 5,000rpms. I had a SOHC and my friend had a DOHC, we raced (at willow) and he had to shift at 5,000 because we didn't know how to get it past it either. I was pulling on him coming into 3rd gear. I was shifting at 6,200. Don't start flaming just because he wants his car to be able to rev to where it's supposed to be able to. |
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#22 |
Nissanaholic!
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fuuuck mman ... negative rep up the ass just for an opinion that i gave? fuckin bull.. i only gave this guy an idea on what MIGHT be the fuckin problem .. and yes.. the governer does stop you from reaching high speeds .. and what better way to do that than by limiting the car from redlining lets say at...around 5000 rpm ? shows how much respect you guys have for drivers helping other drivers out ..
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#23 | |||
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![]() The KA engine is designed for torque, it's not a B16. Since the torque tops out at around 4300, you're better off shifting earlier rather than later. Of course there can be mods done to boost the HP output and make the engine more rev friendly, but in stock form, there's not much left after 5000. So how about you get YOUR facts straight before you come back. Quote:
Going to your local shop and have them remove the governor? Where did you hear this? Your grandpa? Modern import cars that have speed governors are regulated by the ECU. To remove the governor you will need to swap out the ECU with either the auto ECU or an aftermarket (Jim Wolf) ECU. The rev limiter is different from the speed governor, Rev limiting is usually achieved by cutting the fuel supply to the injectors, also controlled by the ECU. I would have negged repped you too if I even bothered to read your post in the first place.
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#24 |
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The power after 5,000rpm still is enough to make a good difference. Race 2 KA's, one shifting at 5,000 and the other shifting at 6,500 and see who wins and by how much.
...and it's spelled "kemosabe". |
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#25 | |
Nissanaholic!
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Oh okay so now it's only "a good difference" of power? Now you're backpedaling. Earlier you said it makes shitloads more power past 5000 rpms..... ....yeah that 5 hp after 5000 is HUGE!!! Hell you can see by the graph that the power only falls after 5500. Really 5500 is as far as I would push a stock KA. So where's this turbo boost you are talking about? Yeah 'shitloads' alright. The only benefit to shifting at 6500 as opposed to 5000 is that your next gear engages at a higher rpm. But not necessarily in the "sweet spot". According to the graph your optimal range is from around 3300 all the way to right where they crossover, about 5250 rpms. Keeping your car in this range is the key. It has nothing to do with, "Hey I can rev my car to 7000!!! Can you?" The 240sx doesn't have a B16 with V-TEC under the hood. It's not a rev happy motor right out of the box. And frankly this is common knowledge among the 240 community, you need to do your research more before you go blabbing your mouth like you know what you're talking about. But since you seem to think you have the right answer since you and your friend race at Button Willow, by all means, keep driving your car like that but, don't expect to get faster lap times. When you're ready to get serious about speed, power, and the relation between the two, start reading up. There's TONS of threads on Zilvia alone dating back since before I started on this forum that have so much feedback from so many guys. Use it. This thread has gone off topic so I'm done with this. To the OP, hope you find the problem.
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