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Old 10-05-2008, 03:51 PM   #1
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Latest development, please help!

My s14 has been having an odd series of problems lately, and now I think I'm at the breaking point between driveable and not driveable.

Symptoms:
-Hard starting. Takes a few seconds, sometimes 10-15 seconds, to start.
-Once it starts, it kills. If I give it throttle, and let off very lightly, it will stay running, but idle at like 400 rpm.
-If I put just a tiny bit of pressure on the fuel line going from the filter to the inlet on the rail, she kills.
-If I drive it, when I first take off, it seems normal. Less power than it should have, but it works. When I push on the pedal to accelerate, it bogs out and dies until I let my foot off, and in a couple seconds it resumes running. When idling in neutral, I can give it a tiny bit of gas and she revs. I dunno how high exactly cause my tach wasn't working right, as usual. If I give it a decent amount of pedal, she pops and sputters and slowly revs. This is followed by killing as it comes down.
-Pulled ECU code, and was only getting a code 105 (EGR).
-Started it up and let it idle for a while and played with the throttle, and now I'm geting code 25 (IACV).
-A coulpe weeks ago, it was only having a problem with an intermittent miss on the highway and under mid to heavy acceleration.

I really don't think the IACV has jack shit to do with anything. I'm thinking my fuel pump is el toasty, given if I play with the fuel hose I get death. The return hose doesn't feel like it has any pressure on it either.

I need this thing running FAST. Help please?
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:11 PM   #2
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Should fuel come out of the hose coming off the regulator to the tank, when the car is in 'run' position? How much should come out when that hose is off, and its idling? Cause with the car off in the run position, I get none. With the car on, I get only a small bit coming out.
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:16 PM   #3
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Very little, the pump only primes for a few seconds. Have you checked the fuel pressure at all?
If the pressure is good you could have one or more bad injectors, unplug each one and see if there's any change.
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:29 PM   #4
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It sounds like a fuel problem. When was the last time you changed your filter or maybe your fuel pump is going bad.
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:30 PM   #5
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It changes quite dramatically when I unplug injectors. I have a new pump in my hand... I just don't wanna install it and not have that be the problem and be out of nearly $100.

Filter was changed to a Z32 about 2 months ago.

Never checked the fuel pressure cause I can't find a damn gauge. All these gauges they sell at auto parts stores are for domestics that have ports for checking pressure... ya know... cause they break down all the time and shit.
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:36 PM   #6
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it sounds like a weak pump... are you still running the stock pump? after all its probably around 12 years old

u might just want to get a walbro 255 its around 100 bucks and when i got it it helped with my gas mileage as well
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:37 PM   #7
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it sounds like a weak pump... are you still running the stock pump?
Yes'm. With your basic boltons.

166k on the factory JECS pump. I'm leaning toward the pump.
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:41 PM   #8
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It changes quite dramatically when I unplug injectors. I have a new pump in my hand... I just don't wanna install it and not have that be the problem and be out of nearly $100.

Filter was changed to a Z32 about 2 months ago.

Never checked the fuel pressure cause I can't find a damn gauge. All these gauges they sell at auto parts stores are for domestics that have ports for checking pressure... ya know... cause they break down all the time and shit.
Hmm. That means the injectors are working, but you may still have limited fuel supply to them. I'd test the pump out of the car, seems that's the issue and you'll have it out anyway to replace.
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:42 PM   #9
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Hmm. That means the injectors are working, but you may still have limited fuel supply to them. I'd test the pump out of the car, seems that's the issue and you'll have it out anyway to replace.
The pump pumps... I just don't know how much... Fuck it, I'm gonna put the new pump in.

EDIT: w00t post #1500
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:02 PM   #10
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Put the pump on the bracket, ready to drop in the tank!
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:03 PM   #11
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The pump pumps... I just don't know how much... Fuck it, I'm gonna put the new pump in.
good thinkin...it sounds like the pump...im also curious if using a z32 filter takes more pressure to push the gas through or is it the same as a stock one? that may be one of the problems if it does but im not very familiar with the fuel filters....after installing the pump get us an update so we can cheer or help u figure out what else is wrong
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:27 PM   #12
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good thinkin...it sounds like the pump...im also curious if using a z32 filter takes more pressure to push the gas through or is it the same as a stock one? that may be one of the problems if it does but im not very familiar with the fuel filters....after installing the pump get us an update so we can cheer or help u figure out what else is wrong
lol. If it doesn't fix the problem, the only things I can think of are the regulator, MAF, dizzy, IACV (for the idle problem), or ECU.

The Z32 doesn't need more pressure to push the fuel through. Its just bigger than stock, and therefore should theoretically be able to filter more crap out before having to be changed again. I would assume that with its larger surface area, it would require less effort to push the fuel through.
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:33 PM   #13
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but also if its larger than the stock one that may also cause the out line from the fuel filter to be lower pressure...its like blowing through a straw the air coming out the other side will be a higher pressure as compared to blowing through a pvc pipe where the pressure will be a lot lower of the air coming out...so that may be the problem as well
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:41 PM   #14
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but also if its larger than the stock one that may also cause the out line from the fuel filter to be lower pressure...its like blowing through a straw the air coming out the other side will be a higher pressure as compared to blowing through a pvc pipe where the pressure will be a lot lower of the air coming out...so that may be the problem as well
Not necessarily. Pressure is not made in the filter, but at the regulator. If you're making pressure at the filter, its dirty lol. Take a straw and blow up a balloon. Now take that straw, and somehow rig it up where the ends are the same diameter, but the midsection is a larger diameter... and blow up the balloon. As long as the inlets and outlets are the same size, you should theoretically come out with the same resistance to flow.

As long as the regulator is doing its job and restricting the flow of fuel back to the tank, pressure should remain the same no matter what filter you use, provided it is large enough to effectively flow enough fuel to the motor.
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Old 10-05-2008, 09:43 PM   #15
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Got some good news and some bad news.

Good news:
Car starts much easier, and has a TON of fuel coming out of the regulator, where it was just a dribble before.

Bad news:
Car still idles like hot asscrack.

God this car is being gay.
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:14 PM   #16
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I unplug the IACV harness, no change in Idle. I think the valve IS bad. Fuck me fucking sidefuckingways.
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:15 PM   #17
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so did u install the new fuel pump? or it just fixed itself? and if its having idling problems then u may need a new iacv like the ecu said earlier

"If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the ECU temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor."
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:17 PM   #18
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so did u install the new fuel pump? or it just fixed itself? and if its having idling problems then u may need a new iacv like the ecu said earlier

"If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the ECU temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor."
Huh?

Yes I installed the new pump. Works fantastic. So turn the car to run position, and unplug the CTS?
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:28 PM   #19
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haha sorry i got that little bit of info off of wiki tech... i believe it is talking about the cts im not exactly sure... and this is where my experience ends =/ ive never had to deal with the iacv i would say just get a new one since its running a code but this piece of equipment is quite expensive like 150 for new i would try to find a used one and see if that fixes the problem or try one from one of your buddies 240 and if ur car runs fine then thats the problem
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:31 PM   #20
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but also if its larger than the stock one that may also cause the out line from the fuel filter to be lower pressure...its like blowing through a straw the air coming out the other side will be a higher pressure as compared to blowing through a pvc pipe where the pressure will be a lot lower of the air coming out...so that may be the problem as well
Wow, that's the stupidest shit I've ever read on here. And that's saying a lot. Your 'straw' theory has one big flaw, the "straw" you discuss is the same size for both filters. No matter how much fuel is in the filter, the rate of flow is determined by the size of the outlet. The only way too increase flow, IE pressure, would be to have a larger output line and then a larger supply hose as well to the rail.
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:34 PM   #21
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I unplug the IACV harness, no change in Idle. I think the valve IS bad. Fuck me fucking sidefuckingways.
And there it is. Do this though, plug the main harness back in (the 8pin on the front of the intake manifold), then unplug the FICD valve only, it's the longer cylinder on the IACV housing with a purple 2pin plug. I'm curious to see if it's sticking or the actual IACV is.

Also, what happens when you crimp the IACV hose shut?
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Old 10-06-2008, 12:06 AM   #22
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Phantom didnt you trade your s14 for the turbo 2?
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Old 10-06-2008, 06:16 AM   #23
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And there it is. Do this though, plug the main harness back in (the 8pin on the front of the intake manifold), then unplug the FICD valve only, it's the longer cylinder on the IACV housing with a purple 2pin plug. I'm curious to see if it's sticking or the actual IACV is.

Also, what happens when you crimp the IACV hose shut?
Um... I dunno, one finger is broken on my right hand so I gotta find pliers to do that lol. I'll do it before work.

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Phantom didnt you trade your s14 for the turbo 2?
Not yet. I gotta get this thing running right before I trade it. He's fixing the sunroof and windshield before we trade, so I'm gonna make sure it runs worth a fuck
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Old 10-06-2008, 06:43 AM   #24
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When I take the purple off, it doesn't change.
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Old 10-06-2008, 04:34 PM   #25
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Bump. I need some assistance please!
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:08 PM   #26
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Found out hitting the A/C button turns the compressor on, but doesn't hike up the idle.
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:09 PM   #27
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Replace IACV. Seems like the only option.
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:51 PM   #28
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on hondas these are a problem too...Try taking it off the IM and cleanign it out with some carb cleaner.
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Old 10-06-2008, 06:23 PM   #29
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Another weird thing... I seafoamed the valve, hoping it would clean it (and trust me, a shit ton of smoke came out the exhaust, lol), and it idled great. Took it for a spin down the street, and now it idles bad again.

Could the VSS have something to do with this?
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Old 10-06-2008, 09:27 PM   #30
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Another weird thing... I seafoamed the valve, hoping it would clean it (and trust me, a shit ton of smoke came out the exhaust, lol), and it idled great. Took it for a spin down the street, and now it idles bad again.

Could the VSS have something to do with this?
Not a chance. The VSS tells speed, that's it. You could leave it unplugged and the engine would never know or care.

If the A/C engagement doesn't cause idle up, the FICD valve isn't working. It's part of the IACV so there's your answer.
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