My brand new clutch slips - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

tofu_s13 · 01-23-2011, 03:18 PM

I have a 1992 Nissan 240sx with a 95 ka24de motor in it. I ad to replace my clutch and my brand new one is slipping. When I recieved my clutch in the mail, the throwout bearing ws completly diffrent and un-usable, so I bought a new bearing to put on my old release housing. This is what I have to work with on finding the problem.

New parts:
Clutch an pressure plate
Throwout bearing
Pilot bearing
resurfaced flywheel

Every gear slips really bad when my car is warmed up.

Any help?

DanDriftS13 · 01-23-2011, 03:29 PM

Not a lot of info to go off but maybe you didnt put it in correctly... Or if you said that the throw out bearing was wrong and completely unusable are you sure you got the right clutch.

sr'ed90coupe · 01-23-2011, 03:38 PM

how bad was your fly wheel? i own a tranny shop and fix this problem offten, ppl forget to shim the back of the flywheel according to how much was taken off when resurfaced, it throws the hole thing off

smoked240 · 01-23-2011, 03:50 PM

Was the clutch on right? It can only go on one way and work right.

tofu_s13 · 01-23-2011, 04:46 PM

I was thinking the clutch might be the wrong one, but then again how come it would fit my car, the flywheel seemed to a fast job, I am just learning cars and so I'm not sure how much they took off.

SupaDoopa · 01-23-2011, 05:02 PM

You either bought the wrong clutch, your flywheel is complete crap, or you didn't install it right. Makes sense.

rowley65flip · 01-23-2011, 05:03 PM

Did you put the piece that the throw out bearing sits on back in correctly?

c-los13 · 01-23-2011, 05:09 PM

take off the clutch and compare to one from autozone
then youll find out if you got the wrong one

changing the clutch sucks but its a must
good luck

whats the condition of your slave and master?

shiftdrift · 01-23-2011, 05:13 PM

did you break the clutch in properly?

SupaDoopa · 01-23-2011, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiftdrift

did you break the clutch in properly?

It's brand new. I'm sure he noticed it the second he drove it for the first time and wasn't a completely moron and tried clutch kicking it right out of the box. Then again, who knows.

tofu_s13 · 01-23-2011, 07:27 PM

I bought the slave and mater cylinder about a month ago, the are still good, I haven't even gotten to break it in, I have maybe 5 miles on the new clutch and it slips like hell. I have done nothing but drive it really easy to break it in. I don't know how else to break one in, then to drive it normal.

D.Adams · 01-23-2011, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiftdrift

did you break the clutch in properly?

Im with him ..

Most people dont break them in and think there good to go out of the box..

I run mine for about 800miles before puting them through hard use.

JL240 · 01-23-2011, 10:41 PM

mine did the same thing all we had to do was adjust the screw or bolt behind the clutch pedal good luck

My$800S14 · 01-23-2011, 10:45 PM

bro you just go around the block in first gear, then you go around the block again with the clutch half engaged at like 5,000 RPM and voala your clutch is broken in, thats what a honda owner once told me, you probably didnt do that, fail...lol im just kidding, dont ever do or try that, you will glaze the pads on the clutch disk. break in is minimum 500miles, never over 3,000 RPM's, i would think the machine shop would have warned you of the extremity of a resurface that required enough adjustment via shims, or the master cylinder, my flywheel was shaved a whole .20 and there were no serious adjustments that would need to be made, my guess is...bad pressure plate? if its the right clutch, but i really dont think you would get any other clutch onto that flywheel.

BustedS13 · 01-23-2011, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My$800S14

bro you just go around the block in first gear, then you go around the block again with the clutch half engaged at like 5,000 RPM and voala your clutch is broken in, thats what a honda owner

i hate this. stop doing this. 90% of 240sx owners have no idea what they're doing, the community as a whole is no better or worse than the honda community.

JL240 · 01-24-2011, 02:33 AM

definitely sounds like clutch adjustment. i had a very similar problem so here you go

First, check if you have about half an inch of freeplay in the clutch pedal (i.e. you can press the clutch pedal lightly and it will depress without engaging/disengaging the clutch)

if not then your clutch is probably out of adjustment. there is a small rod with a 12 mm nut attached to it that attaches to the back of the clutch pedal and is inserted into the back of the clutch master cylinder. loosen the 12 mm nut and use some needle nose pliers/small vice grips to turn the rod

az_240 · 01-24-2011, 03:04 AM

One issue I had when doing my 5-speed swap was the fork on the new oem clutch master cylinder I bought was too long for some reason. I found a fork from another MC that was shorter and it worked well after adjusting.

Another issue I had was the TOB was the wrong size. I ended up ordering a specific z32 TOB that worked much better.

How does the tranny shift? Any grinds?

Is it possible the clutch disc got grease or oil on it?

To break in a clutch you simply take it easy the first 3k or so.

94_240sx · 01-24-2011, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL240

if not then your clutch is probably out of adjustment. there is a small rod with a 12 mm nut attached to it that attaches to the back of the clutch pedal and is inserted into the back of the clutch master cylinder. loosen the 12 mm nut and use some needle nose pliers/small vice grips to turn the rod

I had this problem right after the 5 speed swap. Adjusted the rod and it worked perfectly. I could smell rubber burning and that how I noticed clutch was slipping.

My$800S14 · 01-29-2011, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BustedS13

i hate this. stop doing this. 90% of 240sx owners have no idea what they're doing, the community as a whole is no better or worse than the honda community.

I was just joking I wasn't making fun of anyone just telling a story from a while ago that I thought was halarious, but your right, I'm sorry I am just perpetuating false knowledge, but I did say I was just kidding, and then I gave some real advice

Imarvin240 · 01-29-2011, 11:57 PM

you figure out what it was yet?

*fliprayzin240sx* · 01-30-2011, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sr'ed90coupe

how bad was your fly wheel? i own a tranny shop and fix this problem offten, ppl forget to shim the back of the flywheel according to how much was taken off when resurfaced, it throws the hole thing off

Shim the back of the flywheel?!?! WTF are you talking about? Why the fuck would you shim the flywheel to make up for how much was taken off it after it got turned? If the flywheel is off spec by that much, you just replace the damn thing.

Mind naming your shop/location so I can tell people to stay the fuck away from that place of fail?

To the OP: Does it engage/disengage pretty high up top to begin with? In all seriousness, you probably just need to adjust the clutch pedal engagement point.

jevus · 01-30-2011, 09:30 PM

before u go drastic, bleed the entire system, u might have air in it.

s14l0v3r · 01-31-2011, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jevus

before u go drastic, bleed the entire system, u might have air in it.

+1 why wasen't this said by anyone right as soon as this thread was posted?? smh

BILLFISHER21 · 01-31-2011, 03:36 PM

^ haha because air in the system would cause the clutch not to disengage. The opposite of the op's problem lol. Heres the deal most likely the clutch master cylinder rod is adjusted to far and not allowing the clutch to actually engage. There has to be a little slop in the pedal. Make sure there is atleast 1/4 in. play.

Scenario #2 Dude who cut the flywheel could have cut a 2stage flywheel and made it a 1 stage thats not as likely but also possible check the clutch pedal first!!

s14fbs · 01-31-2011, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BILLFISHER21

^ haha because air in the system would cause the clutch not to disengage. The opposite of the op's problem lol. Heres the deal most likely the clutch master cylinder rod is adjusted to far and not allowing the clutch to actually engage. There has to be a little slop in the pedal. Make sure there is atleast 1/4 in. play.

Scenario #2 Dude who cut the flywheel could have cut a 2stage flywheel and made it a 1 stage thats not as likely but also possible check the clutch pedal first!!

bill fisher to the the rescue lol

HayaiSaru · 02-01-2011, 11:24 AM

Check the engagement point and adjust it. It should towards the middle

01-23-2011, 03:18 PM	#1
tofu_s13 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Vancouver, WA Posts: 3 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	My brand new clutch slips I have a 1992 Nissan 240sx with a 95 ka24de motor in it. I ad to replace my clutch and my brand new one is slipping. When I recieved my clutch in the mail, the throwout bearing ws completly diffrent and un-usable, so I bought a new bearing to put on my old release housing. This is what I have to work with on finding the problem. New parts: Clutch an pressure plate Throwout bearing Pilot bearing resurfaced flywheel Every gear slips really bad when my car is warmed up. Any help?

01-23-2011, 03:50 PM	#4
smoked240 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: North Dakota Age: 34 Posts: 1,067 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Was the clutch on right? It can only go on one way and work right. __________________

01-23-2011, 05:13 PM	#9
shiftdrift Nissanaholic! Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: indiana Age: 34 Posts: 2,242 Trader Rating: (42) Feedback Score: 42 reviews	did you break the clutch in properly? __________________ SW Fab

01-23-2011, 10:45 PM	#14
My$800S14 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Orlando FL Age: 36 Posts: 350 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	bro you just go around the block in first gear, then you go around the block again with the clutch half engaged at like 5,000 RPM and voala your clutch is broken in, thats what a honda owner once told me, you probably didnt do that, fail...lol im just kidding, dont ever do or try that, you will glaze the pads on the clutch disk. break in is minimum 500miles, never over 3,000 RPM's, i would think the machine shop would have warned you of the extremity of a resurface that required enough adjustment via shims, or the master cylinder, my flywheel was shaved a whole .20 and there were no serious adjustments that would need to be made, my guess is...bad pressure plate? if its the right clutch, but i really dont think you would get any other clutch onto that flywheel. __________________ MAddDsBRO LEHDABIHLOO

01-29-2011, 11:57 PM	#20
Imarvin240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: king of prussia, PA! Posts: 1,721 Trader Rating: (18) Feedback Score: 18 reviews	you figure out what it was yet? __________________ https://instagram.com/eck_matthew/

01-23-2011, 03:29 PM	#2
DanDriftS13 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Orlando, Fl Age: 37 Posts: 91 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Not a lot of info to go off but maybe you didnt put it in correctly... Or if you said that the throw out bearing was wrong and completely unusable are you sure you got the right clutch.

01-23-2011, 03:38 PM	#3
sr'ed90coupe Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: florida Age: 33 Posts: 36 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	how bad was your fly wheel? i own a tranny shop and fix this problem offten, ppl forget to shim the back of the flywheel according to how much was taken off when resurfaced, it throws the hole thing off

01-23-2011, 04:46 PM	#5
tofu_s13 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Vancouver, WA Posts: 3 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I was thinking the clutch might be the wrong one, but then again how come it would fit my car, the flywheel seemed to a fast job, I am just learning cars and so I'm not sure how much they took off.

01-23-2011, 05:02 PM	#6
SupaDoopa Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: 隠された意図 Age: 37 Posts: 3,689 Trader Rating: (26) Feedback Score: 26 reviews	You either bought the wrong clutch, your flywheel is complete crap, or you didn't install it right. Makes sense.

01-23-2011, 05:03 PM	#7
rowley65flip Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: indiana Age: 35 Posts: 182 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Did you put the piece that the throw out bearing sits on back in correctly?

01-23-2011, 05:09 PM	#8
c-los13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edinburg, Texas Age: 36 Posts: 446 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	take off the clutch and compare to one from autozone then youll find out if you got the wrong one changing the clutch sucks but its a must good luck whats the condition of your slave and master?

01-23-2011, 07:27 PM	#11
tofu_s13 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Vancouver, WA Posts: 3 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I bought the slave and mater cylinder about a month ago, the are still good, I haven't even gotten to break it in, I have maybe 5 miles on the new clutch and it slips like hell. I have done nothing but drive it really easy to break it in. I don't know how else to break one in, then to drive it normal.

01-23-2011, 10:41 PM	#13
JL240 Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: EDM canada Posts: 124 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	mine did the same thing all we had to do was adjust the screw or bolt behind the clutch pedal good luck

01-24-2011, 02:33 AM	#16
JL240 Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: EDM canada Posts: 124 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	definitely sounds like clutch adjustment. i had a very similar problem so here you go First, check if you have about half an inch of freeplay in the clutch pedal (i.e. you can press the clutch pedal lightly and it will depress without engaging/disengaging the clutch) if not then your clutch is probably out of adjustment. there is a small rod with a 12 mm nut attached to it that attaches to the back of the clutch pedal and is inserted into the back of the clutch master cylinder. loosen the 12 mm nut and use some needle nose pliers/small vice grips to turn the rod

01-24-2011, 03:04 AM	#17
az_240 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Phx Posts: 3,097 Trader Rating: (41) Feedback Score: 41 reviews	One issue I had when doing my 5-speed swap was the fork on the new oem clutch master cylinder I bought was too long for some reason. I found a fork from another MC that was shorter and it worked well after adjusting. Another issue I had was the TOB was the wrong size. I ended up ordering a specific z32 TOB that worked much better. How does the tranny shift? Any grinds? Is it possible the clutch disc got grease or oil on it? To break in a clutch you simply take it easy the first 3k or so.

01-30-2011, 09:30 PM	#22
jevus Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: L.N.X Posts: 494 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	before u go drastic, bleed the entire system, u might have air in it. __________________ CYBORG

01-31-2011, 03:36 PM	#24
BILLFISHER21 Zilvia Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: west palm beach Posts: 168 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	^ haha because air in the system would cause the clutch not to disengage. The opposite of the op's problem lol. Heres the deal most likely the clutch master cylinder rod is adjusted to far and not allowing the clutch to actually engage. There has to be a little slop in the pedal. Make sure there is atleast 1/4 in. play. Scenario #2 Dude who cut the flywheel could have cut a 2stage flywheel and made it a 1 stage thats not as likely but also possible check the clutch pedal first!!

02-01-2011, 11:24 AM	#26
HayaiSaru Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: AZ Age: 95 Posts: 45 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Check the engagement point and adjust it. It should towards the middle