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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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S14 Front Extended Wheel Studs Using Moroso Extended Wheel Studs (MOR-46160)
Everyone,
It is always best to ensure a fully secured rim on your car. When purchasing aftermarket rims, the amount of threads on the wheel studs that are tightened down might decrease, creating a weaker connection between the rim and the hub, especially if you have slip-on spacers. There are a couple options already for the front of the S14; Nismo, Peak Performance, etc. These options cost more than double compared to the Moroso studs. Here are the specs: Quoted from www.summitracing.com "Brand: Moroso Product Line: Moroso Wheel Studs Wheel Stud Style: Press-in Thread Size: 7/16-20 RH in. Knurl Diameter: 0.560 in. Underhead Length (in): 2.875 in. Quick Start Nose: Yes Quantity: Sold as a set of 5. Notes: Fits most late model GM disc brake applications. Wheel Studs, Press-In, 7/16-20 in. x 2 7/8 in. Long, .560 in. Diameter Knurl, Set of 5 Strong studs you can count on. These Moroso wheel studs are manufactured from high-grade SAE 8740 steel to withstand shear loads of 190,000 psi. They are designed expressly for use with thick-hub racing wheels for both drag and Oval Track racing, and have quick start dog ends for easier starting of lug nuts. They're available in both press-in and screw-in styles." There is a minimal difference in knurl diameters but these wheel studs are known to work without any issues; The front hub hole size is .563 inches while the moroso studs are .560, a difference of .003. Parts needed: - Wheel studs - 7/16 lug nuts - 7-10 washers, purchase ones that create the smallest gap between the stud and the washer's inner edge - PB Blaster's Liquid Wrench - Torque wrench - Hammer - 1/2 inch rachet with 21mm extended socket, match the socket to the lug nuts you have. ![]() Optional - Torch 1)You want to get down to the hub so you will have to remove your calipers and rotors; 2 bolts and rest it on the control arm. Apply liquid wrench on all your front stock wheel studs. Let that settle in for a couple of minutes. Next, use a hammer to knock them out. If they are stuck, apply for liquid wrench, use a heat torch, and/or use a bigger hammmer. Now you should only have your hub in front of you. 2) Have your girl friend rub one out for you and apply the super white stuff on the hub holes, washers, and the wheel studs. ![]() ![]() ![]() Please don't get offended, it's just liquid wrench. 3) Place the stud through the hole and place the washers. ![]() 4) Put the lug nut on with the side with more contact closest to the washers. ![]() ![]() 5) Ensure the wheel studs stay in place, you might need to hammer them slightly from the back so they don't spin. If the stud spins while you are trying to tighten the stud, it will strip the knurl area. 6) Since my torque wrench died, I had to use the 1/2 inch rachet. I used an extension to hold the hub in place. Now you can tighten the studs down until the rear of the stud matches up with the hub- 72-87 ft/pounds of torque. If its your first time doing this, use the torque wrench. I did not torque them down, but if you have done this before, you have a good feeling of how tight they should be. ![]() ![]() ![]() 7) The completed hub. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Enjoy your safe and secure rims! Carlos S14 Rear Studs- Summit part number: ARP 100-7708 @ 12x1.5 thread (Same concept, no pics yet) |
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#3 |
Post Whore!
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so do they have tuner-size lug nuts in that thread pattern?
i got some extra aftermarket domestic wheel studs in my garage that were sent by accident from an ebay auction, i might check em out to see if they are simular to those..
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#6 |
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gorilla makes 7/16-20 rh tuner style, assumedly using the same spline drive socket that works with every gorilla nut, but they are close ended
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku you could cut the ends off with a grinder or just tighten them until the ends punch out thats all i can find really good post, im gonna hit this up, i have arp rears. need to get 10 lugnuts seperate from discount tire instead of the 25 dollar set from summit. should keep it under 50$ and be able to use the same lug key for all nuts |
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#9 |
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I will be going with these. It covers more of the threaded area; the more thread caught, the better and safer.
Gorilla Conical Seated |
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#10 |
Post Whore!
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these are the ones i recieved by acident on ebay when i ordered some racers tape (and i still got the racers tape in too so it was win win situation)
![]() these should fit S13? *im not good at math conversions on size*
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#11 |
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Nice,
The numbers on the label will not help you. 7/16-20- thread 2 7/8- length of stud. Knurl Diameter; measure the part that says .375 horizontally. ![]() I say take a digital caliper and measure the knurl just in case. Oops, these won't fit S13 front- ONLY S14 front. For the S13 you need the ARP- 100-7708 |
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#13 |
Post Whore!
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s14 front: 14.3mm / 0.563"
s14 rear: 13.0mm / 0.512" s13 front: 13.0mm / " " " s13 rear: 13.0mm / " " " nice writeup...im starting to not like my 60mm peaks that much...they stick out way too much, haha...should have got some 50s instead...
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#14 |
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ONE MORE TIP:
I tack weld each stud on the back side after they are installed. Ocassionally after-market studs tend to wobble and or spin in the hub. This is even more important if you are not running hub-centric wheels or spacers. good right up btw ![]() |
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#15 |
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
these are .563 knurl diameter. would these work better on s14 fronts? i have arp 100-7708 for the rear of my s14 which have 12x1.5 thread size, but the moroso studs have 1/2 - 20in thread size. so i would have to use different lug nuts in the front than rear correct? i called arp, they don't make anything that will fit s14 fronts exactly, why i dont know. anyone have any experience with arp studs on the front of an s14? if not, i guess i will order the moroso's to get my 240 back on the road... |
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Quote:
The ones you posted from Summit might in fact work better. Get them and let us know how it goes. Carlos |
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#19 |
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Would there be any reason you couldn't drill the hole out one hundredth of an inch to make the hole diameter larger to use the next size up metric arp stud(knurl dia. .579in). It would be nice to use the same lug nut all the way around.
-edit- after looking into it further there is a .565in (ARP-100-7717 price $35 for 5) knurl dia. stud. that is the same price as the .579in dia. It would probably fit with a little elbow grease(.003 interference). The rear studs are .509in ARP-100-7708 ($12 for 5). More expensive than the SAE stud but still chaeper than Nismos and Peak Performance. IMO it would be worth it to be able to use the same socket on all the lugs. Last edited by mct3351; 02-27-2007 at 04:07 PM.. |
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wondered if you ever went through with this, I have to replace my rear wheel bearings anyway, figure I might as well do the studs while I'm at it. it'll be a little guess work for me, lol, I know I have S14 front hubs, but my rears might be S14/R32/Z32, not sure which, lol. I'm assuming all 5 lug rears are the same that accommodate the common axle (eliminating turbo 300zx hubs).
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#21 | |
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Quote:
Carlos |
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I've been using the Moroso front/ ARP rear setup for a few years with no problems. The Moroso's feel as though they don't thread as well as the ARP's do, though (in addition to them seeming to be more prone to corrosion).
ARP's catalogue lists the STi and EVO knurl as similar enough to the S14 front to be able to work, as well as having a 12x1.5 thread for the EVO set to match the ARP rears (which are 12x1.5). Using the same lugnuts all around would be a small benefit to that, but overall I think ARP > Moroso anyways.
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Yea, I was going to try the ARP's, I was just curious if the other guy had gone through with it.
That, and I would imagine that having a very slightly bigger stud would be a better thing that a slightly smaller one. And I am very disorganized, being able to use all the same lug nuts would be a good idea.
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how is it that spl has the arp sets but no one else does. i cant seem to find them anywhere else and he said his price is so high cause arp wants so much for them. too wierd in my opinion that nissan had different sizes and that arp wants three times as much for the fronts than they do the rears
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On summitracing I've found two different part numbers for the rears :
ARP-100-7713 ($24.95) ARP-100-7708 ($12.95) Other than the price, is there a difference? perhaps in length or quality? *edit* nvm I found it: S14 Fronts: ARP-100-7717 ($37.39) Underhead Length (in): 3.000 in. S13/S14 Rears: ARP-100-7713 ($24.95) Underhead Length (in): 3.250 in. ARP-100-7708 ($12.95) Underhead Length (in): 2.500 in. <- shorter |
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#29 | |
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This is the concept. The edges have to catch. \/\/\/\/\/\/\/ \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ Drilling the hole larger will create this scenario. \/\/\/\/\/\/\/ ___________ Carlos |
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#30 | |
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The prices are probably related to volume. They probably don't make alot of some oddball old Corolla studs, vs. some stud used on Camaros and Mustangs for example. |
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