Engine Troubles

[Dirtydave]

KA24DE

Its a new swap, never ran this motor. Fires up and runs great with MAF disconnected. When MAF is plugged in will die/ or try to die, have to pump the throttle to keep it going. Once it reaches 2500 rpm or so revs normal. I have tried 2 other known good MAF's with the same result. I have checked the usual suspects, vacuum leaks, Dirty/bad IACV. No vacuum leaks to be found, removed and cleaned IACV. Gonna try a coolant temp sensor tommorow. But don't think that will resolve the problem. I have used the SEARCH, but only to find similiar threads with no resolve. Anyone got some info?

[redsx13]

i would try running new maf wires

[Dirtydave]

From MAF to where? ECU? If so I am not sure how to do that without hacking my harness.

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by Dirtydave

From MAF to where? ECU? If so I am not sure how to do that without hacking my harness.

ya, maf to ecu. you dont need to hack your harness, just tap into it at the back of your ecu plug. done it multiple times.

[Dirtydave]

Ok, can try that then, is there somewhere I can get a pinout or do you know which pins to tap into?

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by Dirtydave

Ok, can try that then, is there somewhere I can get a pinout or do you know which pins to tap into?

I can tell you how to run the wires without one.

there are 3 wires coming out of your MAF one will be white, one will be black but the last one varies, it should be something like black with white stripe. anyway, your white is signal your black is ground and your last wire is power.

1.The power wire (black/white stripe)-this taps into the black/white stripe wire on the back of your ecu plug, there is probably two black/white stripe wires coming out of the back of your ecu, it doesn't matter which one you splice into(be careful when you run this wire, unplug the battery, black/white stripe is the main ecu power wire, if you short it you will fry your computer).or since this wire is a simple 12v, you can just run it to your battery

2.The ground wire (black)- simply run this to your chassis (it doesn't normally run to the chassis but it will work)

3.signal wire (white)- looking at the back of the ecu plug there will be around 6 or so white wires, one of them it the correct wire, you can use an ohm meter/ multi meter to find it.

its really simple, if you still need help let me know and i can walk you through it

[Dirtydave]

Originally Posted by redsx13

i would try running new maf wires

Tried this today, no luck. It ran just the same, stuttering and bogging down when maf is plugged in. I guess it's safe to say its not a wiring problem. I also replaced my coolant temp sensor, it checked out ok with the multimeter but replaced anyway.

[redsx13]

Did you check your ecu for codes??

[whytrickme]

di you try running a different ecu? I had similar problems, changed the ecu out and never had the problem again....

[ms!3]

just for shits, whats the distance from your maf to the tb? nvm if its a stock intake. lol

[Dirtydave]

Haven't checked codes yet

I have tried two other ecu's

Its a cheapo Ebay short ram, about the same length as stock, and all extra vacuums ports are plugged.

[Dirtydave]

I'm gonna read up on the code process. Scanned over it before, and seems a little confusing, sure I can figure it out though. This is a 90 model with dohc, so will only be able to pull codes at the ecu.

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by Dirtydave

Haven't checked codes yet

I have tried two other ecu's

Its a cheapo Ebay short ram, about the same length as stock, and all extra vacuums ports are plugged.

what!? that's the first thing you ever want to do, even before coming here.

Its really really easy to check for codes....

1.Turn your key to run but don't start the car, looking one of the sides of the ecu you will see a red light, it should be on.

2.next to the light you will see a small screw, turn that screw all the way to the right, wait 2 seconds and then turn it all the way back to the left

3.the light should start to blink, these are the codes. all codes consist of two digits, the first digit is represented by long slow blinks of the light, the second is represented by quick short blinks.

4.codes can easily be found online, a code "55" means no codes, all good

5. when your done, turn the screw back to the right, wait two seconds, and then turn it back to the left. you should see a steady red light again.

[Dirtydave]

Pulled codes today 13, 34

13- coolant temp circuit
34-detonation circuit, so knock sensor i guess

[Dirtydave]

Seem like it has to be a vacuum leak, like it is getting unmetered air and stalling.