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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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Stock Metal Pimping
I've been looking for the past few days for threads on stretching stock metal to it's limit. But there isn't much on here.
Seeing Drifting-pedobear's post reminded me about this. I've done some extra smedium pulls/rolls, but Im looking for some extreme ones and some tips on how it was done. Im not looking for sectioned and rewelded fenders though. Just straight sweat and anger applied to stock metal. Tips/Tricks/Pics?? ![]() My small pull/flare ![]() Looking for methods/tips involving the least amount of paint repair/body work possible. I know that hard though. |
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#2 | |
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Did with a bat, a torch, and a noob in the driver seat that doesn't know how to drive stick.
![]() Small pull enough to tuck 18x10 +14.
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#3 |
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Nico your car done yet? I need to see you at the track sir.
My drivers side always comes out better because I can hang out the door and hold the jack handle while I drive. |
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#4 | |
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Holding jack handle out the window is lulz.
Me and Jonny have been trying to get our vehicles finished for a minute trying to get to the track! I'm doing it slow(er) since I'm looking for a new place. All I need to do is paint my shit and I'll be set.
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#6 |
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You are limited by the inner fender metal. You will only be able to do so much without cutting it out.
This is from before I did that: ![]() 17X11 -1 with ~-3 camber...and significant rubbing. Now I've cut it out and pulled it way further, and have -1.4 deg of camber and zero rubbing ![]() Up front I've got some 17X10 -18s and -2.7 deg: ![]() Its taken some serious hammer work, and I need to do more. To get the original pull I used lots of force (think football defensive line force) with a fender roller and I moved the head up higher in the wheel well to get the maximum clearance. You just have to keep cranking on it, and if you run out of thread on the roller you can just use some bolt on spacers to get more leverage.
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#8 | |
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Hey knoopbro, are you running stock front tubs?
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#9 |
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Nope, my front fender tubs look like this:
![]() As you can see, the upper fender arm thingy has been trimmed. Plasma cutters are awesome: ![]() Rear fender tub action should be taking place tomorrow/fri/sat.
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#10 |
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omg thanks obeewon for asking this. i am definitely going to cut out the inner fender metal. probably gonna weld in a trailer fender waay up in there. (knoop's method/idea)
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#11 | |
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That's really swell.
Alas, I don't have the technology or the steady hands to pull off a procedure like that. So ha! Peace.
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Thanks Knoop! What are you going to do to seal off the inner fender though? I dont want water and grime or smoke getting in there on me.
Positive imagined reps to you my friend. |
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#17 |
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I have a trailer fender I am cutting up and am going to weld back in, and I'll probably use some seam sealing or great stuff to fill it in from the chassis side, just to make sure I don't have smoke and shit coming in the cabin.
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#19 |
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Me and my bro did something similar to 95ka-turbo's when we were rolling my rear fenders. Instead of removing alot of material we made relief cuts along the inner fender. This allowed for an easy roll/ pull and sealing it up should be pretty simple after I attempt to fit my 18x12 -13 back there. So far the roll I did was with my mb's and I believe 30-40mm of spacer. We also used 3/4 inch electrical conduit and phone books for the roll/pull. Here is a pick of how they came out so far. I will take some pics of the inner fender to show the relief cuts tonight.
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#20 | |
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#21 | |
Leaky Injector
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Cool story bro! Are you painting you car blue with a white kit? or referring to the the black one?
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#23 | |
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LOL! He is my brother from another mother. Thanks homie! Hope to see you at some CL events soon. Pics of fenders to come |
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#25 |
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Did you not remember my car?? haha
18x11+11, 245/35's. I'm at -1.8 camber. And the drivers side is pulled enough to run a 18x12 with low offsets.... I was VERY surprised at far it came out. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Now granted, I did rip the seam welds or whatever they're called inside the wells. I need to fix that haha. But I think I'm about to buy overs. ![]() |
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#26 |
Leaky Injector
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So I had some free time so I pulled the wheel off and snapped a shot or two.
Here's the front of the well. ![]() And the back side. It isn't completed yet and we were debating spray foam in there or adding material to fill it up. Since it's gonna get paint it may get welded. ![]() But it still needs to come out more to fit the 18x12 -13. That or finally install the rear uppers and camber more. The car is still on stock arms. Lol ![]() From pulling mine with a 18x9.5 spaced to a -5et and a 245-40 tire with no cutting and getting it to here fitting his wheel on my car. ![]() To his pull with the cuts made pulling it with a 18x9.5 spaced to -15 with a 235-40 tire, his 12s should be able to fit after we can seat the tires and can actually roll it with them. (been trying for a while, gotta make a second cheater tank and try that. Fire hasn't been working for us) ![]() I'm sure once we get them on one of us will post up.
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#29 | |
Leaky Injector
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Pics please! This is for info on pulling and rolling stock metal. Lets see it!
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#30 |
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Slightly off topic:
I wish there was a way not to bang the paint all up when doing this. I've used heat, tape, combo of both, a bat etc etc...but never quite was able to know the 'limit' of pushing metal until the paint would crack. Anyone else have suggestions on this?
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