How To/DIY::Remove broken manifold studs

[Jamison182]

Hello everyone. I recently removed my turbo kit, and while removing the exhaust manifold I snapped a stud clean off. Sooo, I thought i'd do a short write up on how to remove damaged, stripped, or broken intake/exhaust manifold studs.

Tools needed:

- Safety glasses
- Tap/Reamer wrench
- Screw extractors(I used #3)
- Drill
- 5/32 drill bit
- PB blaster penatrating oil
- Brake cleaner
- Beer

First off, I started by spraying the broken stud with PB Blaster penatrating oil. This helps free up the back of the stud. I let it sit for an hour or 2.

Next, I took a 5/32 drill bit and started to drill the center of the stud. Its very important to deep into the stud. I drilled in about a 1/2 inch deep.



Picked these up at Sears for about 25 bux, worth every penny!



After your done drilling, spray more PB blaster around the threads, It can only help. Now your ready to start extracting the stud. Very carefully, take the #3 extractor bit, and begin to thread it into the broken stud. Rotate the tap wrench counter clockwise VERY VERY slowly until deep seated into the stud.



Once the bit is firm into the stud, twist that bitch outta there. You may notice the extractor bit start to flex so be careful not to snap it.(I bought spares incase that happened). If done right, the stud should start backing out.



WOOT!! You got it out, now you can spray brake parts cleaner in the threads and side of the block to wash away any metal shavings. I encourage anyone doing this to wear proper eye protection at all times. Now that everything is cleaned off, inspect the inner threads for damage. Re-tap if nescessary, however mine cam out perfect.

Last step, clean up your mess and enjoy your beer!!



This job was very easy!! I read many threads with ppl that just ignored broken exhaust studs which I thought was sorta lame. Don't take the easy way out. Hope this write helps anyone!

[HyperTek]

nice to know if situation ever occurs for me. thanks!

[trsilvias13]

If my stud snap like that, I would just used pb blaster plus vice grip. My exhaust manifold stud broke inside the block. I will be doing what you did, but if it stick pass out where you can grip it, use a vice grip, would have saved you some time from drilling and having potential shaving flying everywhere.

[redsuns3838]

nice write up. the last picture, blows tho, PBR for the loss. blah. hahaha

remember if u have enough thread left on the stud, you can use a much easier way of removing it by putting two nuts on it and unscrewing the bottom one. thats how i removed mine. works much quicker.

[Jamison182]

Originally Posted by trsilvias13

I would just used pb blaster plus vice grip. My exhaust manifold stud broke inside the block....

I tried using 2 different size vise grips before I did this write up, but no luck. This is a worst case scenario DIY I guess.

Originally Posted by redsuns3838

nice write up. the last picture, blows tho, PBR for the loss. blah. hahaha

Haha, yeah I know, but we play ALOT of beer pong at my house, very cost effective! Thanks for the good words yall.

[los_inc]

how about if your engine is still in the car.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by los_inc

how about if your engine is still in the car.

Where in jersey are you from?

If the motor is still in the car, you just have to take off the mani and turbo, or you can leav that connected and just ubolt it at the DP. Then you follow the guide.

Carlos

[trsilvias13]

You can still do this with the engine in the car. There is enough room. Hardest part is drilling. Find a smaller drill.

[Neejay]

Damn, I found this guide. Im doing my KA-T in a bit and one of my exhaust manifold studs is broken.

A+ for you sir. (But first I'll try the PB Blaster + Vicegrips )

[gotta240]

great thread!

thanks!

[NemeGuero]

+1.. nicely done.

[drift into a curb]

Normally these things happen to other people and i'm like gosh. But I had a head bolt that snapped on me as i was assembling the motor. I wasn't sure if these things worked, so I tried it today and behold! It worked great. I don't care if it's an old thread. Thanks for the info on drill bit sizes and such.

[johngriff]

DO NOT USE LOWES/KOBALT Easy Out (they are the same "style" backout bits in this thread).

They suck. They break. Looks like the sears/craftsman are the way to go.

[s13gold]

im lame...hahah i just left it but with this thread i guess i can get my lazy ass to do it.

thanks.

[drift into a curb]

johngriff, if you know what size you need to use, buy the extractor bolt separately. The drill bits are ass. Luckily I bought the crapsman professional cobalt bit for metal. The included ones barely dented it.

[johngriff]

I have hitatchi bits for drilling holes, someone came back with the Kobalt Brand ones and they bit it, BIG TIME.

[stinky_180]

what is the part number for a new exhaust manifold stud?

[BustedS13]

here's the harbor freight equivalent. 8 bucks. but if the Craftsman set is only 25 bucks... might as well just go to sears, i guess...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40349

[n2n2i]

PBR will always taste better out of the can. Nothing like a little alluminum to add some bite. Here's a little something for all the ricers out there.

[misfitsfreak81]

good write-up. you will get better results though if you use a center punch in the end of the stud to start your drill hole a little easier. also try to use lefthand thread drill bits, sometimes you will get lucky and the stud will come out right on the bit. its also easier to get a good straight hole if you have a right angle air drill or die grinder, they also spin a lot faster than a standard cordless drill. i have also had very good luck with the square stud extractors from napa or something similar. im not a big fan of the round reverse thread ones. i have found that they snap to easily and then you are all sorts of fucked cause there aint a drill bit around that will touch those.

good luck to all who wind up having to do this. its fairly easy, just take your time and be sure to do it right the first time and you will have no worrys.

mike

[slider2828]

Hopefully, this helps. I had a broken stud that was the last stud all the way to the right on my SR head. It broken literally flush with the head. THe way I did it was drench the bolt with PB Blaster 5 different times over night, literally drenched it.

Drilled the middle of the stud with a craftsman cobalt bit about 1/3 the size of he hole, which cobalt is like toughened steel. Drills through bolts like butter. Very expensive too. I used cobalt bits to do safety motorcycling stuff to prep for races. Then used the square easy outs by craftmans, knocked it in with a hammer and it cam out, not even touching the threads on the head.

The drilling is the most important part. Just take your time and it is fine.

[BigLou240sx]

Jamison- Any way of making the pictures available again? This will be my project in the next couple of days, and would love to have this resource.

I also have the reverse-threaded bits...I'll have to go to NAPA and try to find a "square" extractor that has been talked about in this thread.

Are you guys talking about these:

Craftsman 5 pc. Screw Extractor Set - Model 52315 at Sears.com

[karl wasabi]

wow. awesome thread. I just did this and was looking for a good write up. Thanks. =)

[Z33dori]

well the pics don't show up anymore. so

did he do this with the engine in teh car?

[Jamison182]

Sorry guys, pics were deleted from my photobucket. This was done with the engine out of the car on an engine stand....Good luck