First dyno results after motor swap :)

[Tom Ngan]

So finally i've gotten my SR installed and broken in properly and it got dyno'd. Thanks to all the replys I got when I asked questions about my build, so far so good Here are my mods list.

1995 S14 chassis

1994 S13 blacktop SR20DET - originally had 75,000kms

-torn down, replaced rod bearings, front/rear main seals, replaced allgaskets

-Greddy 1.6mm headgasket ARP head studs
-GT2871R .86 w/ megan tubular manifold/elbow/downpipe
-3" catback exhaust
-Greddy intake manifold
-HKS 256 step 1 cams
-Greddy oil pan
-Greddy rocker arm stoppers
-Kept the stock pistons/rods
-Greddy Type RS BOV w/ M Spec FMIC
-Mishimoto Radiator
-Dual Altima fans
-Detchwerks 550cc injectors w/ stock fuel rail
-Walbaro 255lhp fuel pump
-Exedy Stage 2 clutch
-Very custom built Megasquirt V2.0 w/ Innovative wideband (uses Ford Escort Crank sensor as the trigger wheel)

Anyway, thats the big stuff. We did the initial tune and that max boost I was reaching was 0.4 Bar and we hit 185rwhp and 144lbs of torque on a mustang dyno. Needless to say, theres not much low end, but the top end is pretty impressive for its boost levels.

I was wondering if those numbers sounded about right? I usually don't see alot of people posting builds with lower dyno numbers.

I'm shooting for a bit over 300rwhp on the mustang dyno. Its pretty underrated, we have a local dynojet and the difference is roughly 10-15% increase on the dynojet. I'm sticking with this boost level til I can properly afford a decent EBC and then go back for another tune.

I'll get the dyno sheet asap and i'll post it up.

Thanks for reading guys! Sorry post is kinda long and newbish, pretty excited just wanted to share my excitement.

[s13rookie]

Isnt .4bar lower than stock? It looks like a well thought out build, but will the dual altima fans be able to keep up? Did you do the megasquirt yourself? If so I commend you on that. Id like to try doing it myself someday but im broke/dumb/scared....

190-210+whp seem to be about what people put down after swapping in a red top and the basic exhaust/IC/ boost controller etc route. With the amount of mods you have, its going to take a clockwise turn of the B/C to see the true gains.

[Sir]

I got 180-ish HP and TQ on stock SR + FMIC+downpipe/exhaust running 7-8psi.

i've heard that 550s are going to be maxing out on you around 1bar, so I'm going with 740's for my GT2876R.

[GabeS14]

I am confused!!!

you should be putting down about 330hp to 370hp with you set up
on about 15-17psi if tuned right
why did you keep the boost down so low?
i have the same set up you have .

[daryl337]

he kept the boost low because he doesnt have a good controller and/or fuel management. Good luck to you op.

[cotbu]

I think, with that build 300 plus horse power isn't going to be a problem.
I make 305hp and 302tq on a mustang dyno @ 16.4psi. 2800 pound car

Your numbers are good for .48bar
I would do another base run at 10psi when you get a chance, and have it stored to disk.

[bigOdom1]

550 cc injectors start to really work hard at higher boost and that snail

[mrs.drift33]

You need more boost.

That intake manifold isnt helping much either..I bet youll make more power with a stock one.

[Rockogtr]

i have the same turbo in my s13 hatch but stock head gasket and cams and the des. 650cc injectors.. are set ups are close but i ran 18 psi and made 345 hp and 300 ftlbs

[Tom Ngan]

Wow seems like everyones torque numbers are so impressive.

Anyway, it tops around 0.4 bar, roughly 5.5 psi.

I got a Blitz R spec boost controller coming in and i'll probably turn up the boost to 1 bar or maybe 1.2 bar. Hoping for something like 300-320rwhp 250lbs of torque on the mustang, then i'll do a dynojet just to see where its at

The megasquirt was laboured on for over a month at the shop, I added my input, but the fine details were done in the shop. Ultimately its something unique, but very time consuming to do when something similar/better can be had from a box ie. haltech/AEM etc

Yea I knew before hand the injectors will be the first limiting factor... might upgrade next season to 740cc.

I really want to push higher boost levels somewhere around 18-20psi, so the IM and the cams really shine, but bit hestiant because its stock bottom end. We will see how the 1 bar pull goes.

Stay tuned for updates, thanks for the reponses everyone.

[Rockogtr]

with cams it should be nice i dont hit full boost till 3900 rpm but it goes like hell when it hits

[GabeS14]

Originally Posted by daryl337

he kept the boost low because he doesnt have a good controller and/or fuel management. Good luck to you op.

ok makes sanse..
good numbers then, just curious, though

[cwd240]

Originally Posted by Tom Ngan

I really want to push higher boost levels somewhere around 18-20psi, so the IM and the cams really shine, but bit hestiant because its stock bottom end. We will see how the 1 bar pull goes.

You should be fine running those numbers on a stock bottom end. Hybrid Dynamics had a car running 600+ hp on a stock bottom end.

Also, with that Greddy IM, you will lose some torque but you gain a wider powerband.

[Tom Ngan]

Fuck...

So my car was ready to go today, new blitz R spec EBC installed, everything checked out good.

Strapped her in, rolled her up, everything wired up and plugged in.

Then the computer shows the AFR's are out of wack, check around and theres a exhaust leak. Apparently the flange that connects the elbow to the exhaust side of the turbo cracked on the elbows side.

The fitment on those damn generic elbows/downpipes are freaken garbage. Getting her patched up on friday, will update then. Thanks all.

[Tom Ngan]

Alright, finally got it semi-tuned and ready to go. First taste of more boost.


Originally had some issues with the spark plugs not being cold enough, so the first run we did it misfired and hit 234rwhp.

Then we changed the spark plugs to colder ones, and added some timing. Next run made 251rwhp. Misfiring was still there a bit. Plugs warmed up a bit, next run made 254rwhp.

Best run all day was 258rwhp/238lbs torque. at 14.5psi on their mustang dyno. However there was still alittle misfiring uptop, but the A/FR's were in the mid to high 11's at WOT.

We went to the street to see how it was, sure enough it was misfiring again, quite a bit actually. We tested coil voltage, good 13.5V, swapped coil packs, and finally we adjusted the tach signal from within the megasquirt control unit, and that did the trick, it ran better then ever.

In the dyno graph the tach signal is weird, so that might have been the cause of the problems. I believe that it would have done much better if it had another chance on the dyno. Maybe 260rwhp - 265rwhp. On a dynojet, it'll be around 300-310rwhp I'm guessing.

I think the dyno its pretty accurate but the numbers might read lower then other mustangs. In comparison Stock SR 740CC, AEM, IM, 8.5-1 CR, same turbo/AR at 18psi made 255rwhp on race gas... only thing I had he didn't have was CAMS !


Quite happy with the car, future upgrades will include water injection, larger injectors and a bit higher on the boost.
Try to keep it as safe as possible on the stock bottom end.

Heres the dynosheet for the 254rwhp run, couldn't find the 258rwhp run, thanks for reading everyone! Its very faint, i'm sorry I don't have photoshop

[johngriff]

Looks like you have some pretty serious ignition problems from the look of that graph. Are you getting timing errors in the megasquirt?

I am going to be in Vancouver oct 4th-11th, maybe I can swing by

[Tom Ngan]

The spiking graph is the result of a bad tach signal.

[johngriff]

Are you sure? Usually a bad tach signal to a dyno makes straight left to right breakups, while some of your breaks are up and down, representing power not rotation over time.

Does the car feel spotty in power delivery or "surging"?

[Tom Ngan]

I am very confident in my tuner's abilities especially with the many hurdles, his had to figure out with this megasquirt/SR combo. I'll double check with him.

When I first saw the graph I was like wtf? He reconfig'd the dyno to read a different ohm/volt ? He had to reconfig the dyno itself to give the graph in its current form and says the spikes are the result of a bad tach signal.

On the original format the lines would go ALL the way up and all the way across the whole graph, it looked like a scribble.

The power feels very smooth throughout the powerband, on the first pull after the startup of the car, I felt a VERY minor blip uptop, but every pull after there was no signs of misfiring. I've been told that the plugs need a bit of time to 'warm' up. Insight?

[johngriff]

With glow plugs yes, but not with our style sr plugs. Your Temp correction map could be off on the megasquirt, you could just play with it until you get rid of the blip.

[Tom Ngan]

Originally Posted by johngriff

With glow plugs yes, but not with our style sr plugs. Your Temp correction map could be off on the megasquirt, you could just play with it until you get rid of the blip.

THATS IT, the temp correction, we were playing with that for a while and after some fiddling we got the graph you see. Its not perfect, but they ran with it.

It'll go back on the dyno next spring, and we'll sort it out. Hopefully w/ meth kit and 20psi

[Tom Ngan]

Running into some problems now, spoke too soon >.<

Misfiring as I hit boost, and the tach bounces around with big back fires. Running pretty shitty.

Anyway, we think its interference from bad grounds to the tach signal. We checked it out and there is a huge amount of interference coming from the grounds in the engine bay. Also, from the regulator in the alternator.

This weekend, i'll try to swap out the alternator and set up the grounds to run to the battery box in the trunk. If that doesn't work.... jeebus....

[Healtoeae86]

whats your timing at when it starts to backfire?

[slider2828]

At 550 it maxes pretty close. I have 600cc injectors and at 18.5 psi it is only running like 80% total duty cycle at peak boost and 6500 RPM. It helps a lot when you retard the timing at the top a little. Based on research, I think 22PSI is pretty much the max safe boost on the turbo itself, not talk about setup though.

Does water/meth squirt help a lot and what exactly does it do except cool the motor? Is it like the 6 stroke engine like crower made?

By the way, eletrical on S13's suck crap. I made my own ground cables from 2 gauge jumper cables, works awesome

[Tom Ngan]

The injectors can hold up to around 300rwhp on their dyno. Thats til its over 80% so my power levels are quite under.

Timing is right, it wasn't backfiring or stuttering on the dyno, or for the next 2 days. The AFR's on the dyno were mid-high 11s at WOT.

I'm going to try to make some beefy ground cables to the relocated battery this weekend. Hopefully it works. I'm regreting the choice of megasquirt, the end cost to make it work with the SR is about as much as a standard standalone.

Meth kit lowers intake temps, increases octane levels, and pretty much fights against detonation. I wouldn't push the GT2871R over 20-21psi. Not worth it might as well go top mount.