drive shaft...neg rep me if u want...lol

[DALAZ_68]

so ive read up what i could on the single piece drive shafts...weight differences between steel and aluminum

more power to the wheels sins its 1 piece

totally understood

ive even read some stuff on carbon fiber shafts...but only on Rx7 and such


my question is...what about a 2 piece aluminum shaft...?

obviously no real power gains to the wheels...well maybe since its less effort to turn it if its lighter...

and obviously some weight loss

could it even be possible

in the sense of replacing original shaft with aluminum...new bushings between the connectiong joints...maybe even something aftermarket to make then stiffer...and boom good as new if not better

i brign this up because for a long while ive been eyeing single piece shafts but DD will be sacrifice due to noise...this is usually an upgrade for straight track cars, so its not relatively smart to put it on a track/dd rite...

any input on this would be gravy...i did a google search but no go...
all i got were single piece aluminum searches lol

[PoorMans180SX]

There is no additional noise from a one-piece driveshaft, and no cons that I know about. ACPT makes a carbon fiber one for our car. It weighs like 8 lbs.

Just get a one piece ally or carbon one, you'll definitely feel the throttle response improve.

[DALAZ_68]

Originally Posted by Turbo711

There is no additional noise from a one-piece driveshaft, and no cons that I know about. ACPT makes a carbon fiber one for our car. It weighs like 8 lbs.

Just get a one piece ally or carbon one, you'll definitely feel the throttle response improve.

well ive driven one with aluminum and it wa KA so it was basically a car like mine, same motor, stock and close mileage...

and ur right i felt the difference in throttle...

but since mine is going ot currently stay track/DD ive read in several forums and have talked to a few who have single peieces that tell me with DD u run into pumps and shit that can cause the single piece to take damage, like pot holes and shit...

basically the reason why its 2 piece is to cushion the shaft from heavy and fast pace shaking and jolts from crappy streets and freeways, and i live in L.A. lol so crappy freeways and roads ar constant

[drftwerks]

carbon is fucking retarted for how much it costs

2 piece?? prob cost more, so its fucking retarted

one piece lighte weight steel will wiegh about 12-14 lbs, any local 4wd shop can make one for about 200-300

[DALAZ_68]

Originally Posted by drftwerks

carbon is fucking retarted for how much it costs

2 piece?? prob cost more, so its fucking retarted

one piece lighte weight steel will wiegh about 12-14 lbs, any local 4wd shop can make one for about 200-300

how bout u settle down and read the issue at hand be4 throwing out facts i already know...seeing as ur from CA (not sure if Socal)

[tknbkthrsdy4anfg]

1 piece is lighter (less universals and brackets)
Easier and cheaper to make (less universals and brackets)
Less rotational drag (no carrier bearing)

[k's_silvia2.0]

Originally Posted by Turbo711

There is no additional noise from a one-piece driveshaft, and no cons that I know about. ACPT makes a carbon fiber one for our car. It weighs like 8 lbs.

Just get a one piece ally or carbon one, you'll definitely feel the throttle response improve.

Well ill disagree with that one not only do you get noise, vibration as well and before anyone starts with the "oh you didnt install it right" Or your dumb and young" F that.Its my experience with various cars with a 1 piece driveshaft.
The 2 piece oem one is made that way for 2 reasons reliability and comfort .

[DALAZ_68]

Originally Posted by tknbkthrsdy4anfg

1 piece is lighter (less universals and brackets)
Easier and cheaper to make (less universals and brackets)
Less rotational drag (no carrier bearing)

yes...understood...I think im asking something here way WAYYY out of the box

Originally Posted by k's_silvia2.0

The 2 piece oem one is made that way for 2 reasons reliability and comfort

and comfort is something i dont wanna TOTALY loos during DD

[zaneithan]

i just put a DSS aluminum one piece on my SR'ed s13 and i didnt hear any additional noise and definitely felt better throttle response.... my question is, why would you want to make a 2 piece aluminum which would probably cost more than the 400$ DSS wanted for their aluminum one piece when there's no real benefit over the one piece? just get the one piece

[projectdrifter]

i have a mazworx 1 piece cf ds with a lightweight act pro light flywheel throttle response is great. but i will say u do get some harmonics from it not necessarily vibrations but u get a noticeable noise at like3k if you old it there.

i would recommend a 1 piece alum ds. i don't trust the center carrier bearing in the least on any higher whp car. just my 2 cents.
the other benefit is less rotating mass helps you go thru the rpm a bit quicker. u wont notice any whp gains but there probably is like 1whp u may gain from it.

[projectdrifter]

Originally Posted by DALAZ_68

and comfort is something i dont wanna TOTALY loos during DD

if you are building a ""race" or "drift" car you will be sacrificing a few comforts. but in my mind a 2 piece ds has a big weak point(center carier bearing) so for piece of mind and comfort of not having a 2 piece sling my car or go thru the floor boards. an aluminum ds that hasno negative repercussions and a few gains seems like a great buy.

[statik]

the 1 piece aluminum makes a bit more noise, if you didn't hear you car just makes too many other noises to notice, it's really not bad at all though, fine for DD use

[ManoNegra]

I've daily one piece for over a year before without any major problems. Noise? Vibration? Sure, but then again stiffer suspension/bushing/swaybars/strut bars/etc. have similar effects but don't seem to bother most people.
Various problems with the carrier bearing was what prompted the change for me. I also wanted an alluminum one at first but ended up getting a steel one after talking to the people at the shop. Basically aluminum is lighter (by about 10 pounds iirc) but also easier to damage and the steel one can always be serviced - lengthened (if you change cars) and re-balanced if needed.
As far as driving the one thing I noticed was slight shudder/vibration on decel at ~3k rpm. No biggie.

Driveline Services in Gardena is who I went with after Marco from sr20store recommended them. Ran me ~$330 about 3 years ago.

[unicoladron]

lawl..first off driveshafts don't use bushings, they use u-joints. secondly, the reason most of us see 1 piece driveshafts as enhancements are because of the less rotational mass and only 2 u-joints. there is no carrier bearing, so there is less drag if you think about it. basically less moving parts.

it would be alot more labor intensive to make 2 piece shafts like the OEM ones.

you have 2 options.

get a shitty junkyard ds, or get a one piece from rndfactory (that's where i got mine) or get one from DSS (tried to but back ordered forever)

and if you're so concerned about comfort, you shouldn't be driving an s-chassis, or in fact, any compact car.

[DALAZ_68]

Originally Posted by unicoladron

lawl..first off driveshafts don't use bushings, they use u-joints. secondly, the reason most of us see 1 piece driveshafts as enhancements are because of the less rotational mass and only 2 u-joints. there is no carrier bearing, so there is less drag if you think about it. basically less moving parts.

it would be alot more labor intensive to make 2 piece shafts like the OEM ones.

you have 2 options.

get a shitty junkyard ds, or get a one piece from rndfactory (that's where i got mine) or get one from DSS (tried to but back ordered forever)

and if you're so concerned about comfort, you shouldn't be driving an s-chassis, or in fact, any compact car.

wow i must have stirred u up or something jeez...how bout checking the attitude bro...it was a question i was just wondering about...

i gotta talk to more Socalpeople since there dealing wiht the same conditions as me...maybe then ill be convinced one way or the other...

[kyles1988]

A friend of mine has an aluminum 1-piece on his 400whp S13 and I have never heard a single noise from the car other than turbo spool, and there is not a single vibration

[Irukandji]

Nemeguero has a single piece aluminum shaft on his s14 and it actually was quiter than stock since his carrier bearing was slopping around

[slideways2004]

1 piece only. a 2 piece aftermarket steel or alum. would be kind of retarded, not to mention pretty expensive also. if you are worried about having a "smooth" car, don't even mod your car.

p.s. is it true that a 1 peice driveshaft will cause damage to the transmission earlier than a stock 2 piece? for clutches like exedy hyper single?? meaning b/c everything is stiffer w/o any give like the stock piece, you can break stuff easier by clucth kiccking?? or is that only high horsepower like 400+?

[DALAZ_68]

Originally Posted by slideways2004

1 piece only. a 2 piece aftermarket steel or alum. would be kind of retarded, not to mention pretty expensive also. if you are worried about having a "smooth" car, don't even mod your car.

p.s. is it true that a 1 peice driveshaft will cause damage to the transmission earlier than a stock 2 piece? for clutches like exedy hyper single?? meaning b/c everything is stiffer w/o any give like the stock piece, you can break stuff easier by clucth kiccking?? or is that only high horsepower like 400+?

i would say more common to higher HP cars due tho the instant torque transfer when u CK...no cushioning

[projectRDM]

A one piece shaft does not hang down any lower than a two piece, in fact without a carrier bearing there's more ground clearance. A properly balanced shaft, IE one you take somewhere to balance to your car, will give no resonance or noise. It's lighter, can turn quicker, and has no free play or slop off load or on. The U joints are rebuildable and servicable, and the yokes are easily replaced.

There is nothing to justify not using one, period. Everything about it is a plus.

[DALAZ_68]

Originally Posted by R240NA

A one piece shaft does not hang down any lower than a two piece, in fact without a carrier bearing there's more ground clearance. A properly balanced shaft, IE one you take somewhere to balance to your car, will give no resonance or noise. It's lighter, can turn quicker, and has no free play or slop off load or on. The U joints are rebuildable and servicable, and the yokes are easily replaced.

There is nothing to justify not using one, period. Everything about it is a plus.

so ur sayin that badly balanced SPDS are the ones that make the rucus i hear about?

[projectRDM]

Possibly. Anyone can build a driveshaft and balance it on a lathe, but who knows if during shipping it got a ding or knick in it, or if your car just has a shitass drivetrain alignment and nothing balances right. My Enjuku shaft was balanced, but it was still off a bit when I had it rechecked. A quality shop locally welded a weight to it, ground it the welds flat, then rechecked it, it was then dead on. A few grams is all it takes for noise.

[nissan240sxkid]

thats exactly what the noise is, if yours makes noise remove it and go have it checked or rebalanced you might find that its off.

[DALAZ_68]

Originally Posted by R240NA

Possibly. Anyone can build a driveshaft and balance it on a lathe, but who knows if during shipping it got a ding or knick in it, or if your car just has a shitass drivetrain alignment and nothing balances right. My Enjuku shaft was balanced, but it was still off a bit when I had it rechecked. A quality shop locally welded a weight to it, ground it the welds flat, then rechecked it, it was then dead on. A few grams is all it takes for noise.

wouldnt the same apply for bad roads???

[projectRDM]

Originally Posted by DALAZ_68

wouldnt the same apply for bad roads???

How? The driveshaft spins on a flat plane. Going over a bump doesn't change the plane it's spinning on since the whole car moves, or at least the drivetrain does. The subframe moving (or the diff) within it's mounts could cause a cross load on the shaft, but not enough to unbalance it.

Think of like a washing machine. The barrel spins freely when unloaded. When loaded, all the clothes dissipate evenly and keep the barrel spinning on an even path. If something becomes lodged though and shifts all the clothes to one side, the barrel begins to rotate off axis, thus making noise. even if you put the washing machine on an uneven surface, the barrel finds a way to center itself when loaded.

[DALAZ_68]

Originally Posted by R240NA

How? The driveshaft spins on a flat plane. Going over a bump doesn't change the plane it's spinning on since the whole car moves, or at least the drivetrain does. The subframe moving (or the diff) within it's mounts could cause a cross load on the shaft, but not enough to unbalance it.

Think of like a washing machine. The barrel spins freely when unloaded. When loaded, all the clothes dissipate evenly and keep the barrel spinning on an even path. If something becomes lodged though and shifts all the clothes to one side, the barrel begins to rotate off axis, thus making noise. even if you put the washing machine on an uneven surface, the barrel finds a way to center itself when loaded.

wow i like the washer explanation thank you

[unicoladron]

lol!! the washing machine in my apartment has this sensor that will stop the washing machine when it detects it's off balance to a certain degree. it usually happens if you do a very light load, which just tends to stick to one side of the machine during the spin cycle.

[kandyflip445]

Great, I'm happy that your washer is sooooo 1337. R240NA was explaining something using that as an example, WTF are you doing?

[aznpoopy]

i think he's just trying to be friendly cmon now

[kandyflip445]

Originally Posted by aznpoopy

i think he's just trying to be friendly cmon now

That's why I put the rolly face.